Routes as trad in Switzerland

Cams und Keile werden benötigt.

Cams und Keile werden benötigt.

selten begangene Variante des NE-Grates

Detour of the NE sporn

Re-equipped in 2013. Camalots 0.5 to 2 could be useful.

Very popular multi pitch route at the 'Schafbergwand'. The route follows the arete from west to east. A must for visitors of this crag.

A detailed description in the blog by Marcel Dettling

Re-equipped 2018.

Topo: https://www.rebolting.ch/de/topos/routen/boulderhighway-grimsel.php

Requires 50m single rope. Sparsely bolted; a set of nuts and cams 0.3-3 (BD) is recommended.

Platten und Verschneidung bieten Abwechslung

Classic. Beautiful.Geniale Linie Absicherung gut, jedoch mit Friends und Keile auf allen Längen aufzubessern. Abstieg über Wanderweg.

topo in German: http://topoguide.de/Topo_Gandschijn.pdf

Multipitch traverse the entire sector.

After the 2nd bolt of the 2nd pitch of Osiris, head right into the hand crack (gear). Joins Osiris again at the top.

Succession of four or five walls with different variants possible on each. There are some passages of easier terrain for walking / scrambling between the walls.

1. Schwere Wand: 4c, 5c+ or some of the routes on "Schwere Wand".

2. Wand 1: 5a or 5c+

3. Wand 2: 4b or 5a+,

4. Wand 3: 6a, 5b+ or 4c. Alternatively, you can traverse to the "Christbaumwand" further left and climb "Saunatrip".

5. Wand 4/Spez: 3a, 5b, 5b+, 6a or 5b+.

The route book can be found after the final 3a pitch.

After climbing the route, you can continue either on "Ostgrat"[195129846] or one of the routes on "Turm".

Normally climbed after completing "Südwände".

final face to original anchors with two bolts or clean to anchors to the right

Cam 0.3-0.5 und Cam6 empfohlen.

https://www.bergsteigen.com/touren/klettern/piz-badile-nordkante/

The route is mostly bolted. Runouts are quite big though. There is a couple of good threads in the last pitch. There are some old slings or ropes there but they look very dodgy. It is recommended to take a couple of slings and use them there. All anchors are bomber bolts.

6c oblig.

Gear:

Friends C4 0.3-0.5, nuts or microfriends

First of the towers. A bit polished ridge climbing.

6c+ oblig.

Gear:

2x50m rope, 12 quickdraws, Cams 0.2-1

Belay bolted. 2 racks friends, nuts and hex nuts. 2x50m. Some bolt are present in the critical passage but need definitively extra protection. Mainly Friends from 0.5 until 5 max (BD). Double rack needed for #1,2,3,4.

3rd pitch bolted. Belay bolted.

Nuts, Friends 1-4 and slings.

Nuts and Friends 2-4

Nuts, middle Friends, Slings

Nuts and Friends 0.5 -3.5.