Grade | Route | Gear style | Crag | Quality | Climber | Date | |||
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Trad | |||||||||
6b | ★ Doing the Trad | 15m | Ton Sai | ★ Good | Thu 10th Feb 2005 | ||||
Difficult blank middle section!
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6b | ★ Doing the Trad | 15m | Ton Sai | Average | Fri 10th Nov 2023 | ||||
This is bolted and now called "Doing the Bolts" ;-)
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6b | ★ Doing the Trad - with Tim | 15m | Ton Sai | ★★ Very Good | Thu 2nd May 2024 | ||||
Now bolted. I bailed at the forth bolt. It was quite awkward at that point, maybe some off width technique needed.
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6b | ★ Human Frality | 92m | Ton Sai | Average | Wed 1st Jul 2015 | ||||
May 1998
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5c | ★★ Kooha Sawan | 30m | Khao Jeen Lae | ★★ Very Good | Sat 6th Aug 2022 | ||||
with a few run-outs but super easy climbing
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6a+ ~5c | ★★★ Supercrackalicious - with aram | 18m | Koh Tao | ★★★ Classic | Tue 14th Feb 2023 | ||||
Beautiful crack, very very nice jams
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6a+ | ★★★ Supercrackalicious | 18m | Koh Tao | Wed 12th Apr 2023 | |||||
did it after the multi pitch. would be nice to try it again when its not in the sun.
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Top rope | |||||||||
6b | ★★ Ribbed For Her Pleasure | 13m | Railay | ★ Good | Tue 22nd Nov 2005 | ||||
TR (no pro)
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6b | ★★ Ribbed For Her Pleasure | 13m | Railay | ★★ Very Good | Tue 13th Apr 2010 | ||||
top rope
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6b | ★★ Ribbed For Her Pleasure | 13m | Railay | ★★ Very Good | Thu 1st Jul 2004 | ||||
good fun, easy to miss holds on
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6b | ★★ Ribbed For Her Pleasure - with Pheeohnah | 13m | Railay | Sat 16th Apr 2016 | |||||
Attempt.. crazy lean back and side pulling up. No lead for this route as anchored through 'short and easy' anchor. Few guys said that the route is harder than it was a few years ago as it's more polished. 6c maybe?
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6a | ★ unknown3 - with Kaison | 10m | Kao Chum Thong | ★ Good | Thu 1st Jun 2023 | ||||
Nice little route.
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7a | ★★ C U Next Tuesday - with Dan Lisher | 16m | Koh Tao | ★ Good | Fri 20th Jun 2014 | ||||
cool crimpy route, only top rope tho
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6c+ | ★★ Son Of A Bitch - with Dan Lisher | 16m | Koh Tao | ★★ Very Good | Fri 20th Jun 2014 | ||||
good fun on sharp crimps, again only top rope
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6c+ | ★★ Son Of A Bitch | 16m | Koh Tao | Fri 15th Jan 2016 | |||||
Awesome climb, one of the best on the island =]
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Sport | |||||||||
7a | ★★ Musong p1 | 120m, 48 | Ton Sai | ★★ Very Good | Tue 1st Feb 2011 | ||||
Orange Grampians pockets. I almost fell off.
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6b 7a | ★★ Musang (Musong p2) | 120m, 48 | Ton Sai | ★★★ Classic | Tue 1st Feb 2011 | ||||
I'm Slim Shaley yes I'm the real Shaley!
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7a | ★★ Musong p3 | 120m, 48 | Ton Sai | ★★★ Classic | Tue 1st Feb 2011 | ||||
Punchy wall climbing leads you into the womb and out the other side to an unlikely belay! Mind boggling.
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6b 7a | ★★ Musang (Musong p4) | 120m, 48 | Ton Sai | Average | Tue 1st Feb 2011 | ||||
A quick add-on pitch just to top out in the huge cave. More like 6c.
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7a | ★★ Musang (Musong p1) | 120m, 48 | Ton Sai | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sat 21st Jan 2017 | ||||
Holy shit what an incredible climb! So many good things to say about it. Amazing moves, easy to read, great views, beautiful rock (that's not polished!), well bolted, and just really rewarding. Would do this again in a heartbeat
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7a | ★★ Musang (Musong) - with adam, daniel, alex | 120m, 48 | Ton Sai | ★★★ Mega Classic | Fri 22nd Feb 2019 | ||||
Such an epic way to wrap up my last day of the trip!! Climbed in 2 parties, hauling up base jumping rig for alex so he could jump from the cave at the top!
Stellar climbing on seemingly untouched rock. Took us 2 hours to rap down though, bit of a backclipping mission!
Stoke was high!
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7b | ★★★ Lord Of The Thais p4 | 120m, 46 | Railay | ★★ Very Good | Wed 5th Jan 2005 | ||||
such a fantastic climb i loved it
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7a+ 7b | ★★★ Lord of the Thais (Lord Of The Thais p3) | 120m, 46 | Railay | ★★★ Mega Classic | Wed 1st Mar 2006 | ||||
boom, this is the one
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6a | ★★★ Lord Of The Thais p5 / The King & I p4 | 120m, 46 | Railay | Average | Wed 5th Jan 2005 | ||||
Sharp rock, it's the only way to the rap station. A great day out!!
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7b | ★★★ Lord of the Thais (Lord Of The Thais p4) | 120m, 46 | Railay | ★ Good | Mon 24th Nov 2003 | ||||
So there we were, thinking this was pitch 4 of Circus Oz, a 6B (20). We pass some Swiss guys who are rapping off who thought the same thing, until they got on it. Then they were telling me it was harder than the previous pitch and they had to go bolt to bolt on it. I said that can't be, we're on the right route, you guys don't know what you're on about. Then I launched up the thing. Frickin hell. I end up taking a whipper, then doing the move, and the rest of the pitch cleanly. We find out later it's 7B (25!). Saw the Swiss guys later down on the beach. Oh, how we laughed. Good times.
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6c+ 7b | ★★★ Lord of the Thais (Lord Of The Thais p2) | 120m, 46 | Railay | ★★ Very Good | Mon 20th Sep 2004 | ||||
several bolts are very rusty
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6c+ 7b | ★★★ Lord of the Thais (Lord Of The Thais p2) | 120m, 46 | Railay | ★★ Very Good | Wed 5th Jan 2005 | ||||
Quite a pumpy pitch, with an early crux. Stout!
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7a+ 7b | ★★★ Lord of the Thais (Lord Of The Thais p3) | 120m, 46 | Railay | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sun 15th Jul 2007 | ||||
Best pitch I've ever climbed
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7a+ 7b | ★★★ Lord of the Thais (Lord Of The Thais p3) | 120m, 46 | Railay | ★★★ Mega Classic | Mon 24th Nov 2003 | ||||
Outrageous cauliflower ceiling, with the crux above it!
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7a+ 7b | ★★★ Lord of the Thais (Lord Of The Thais p3) | 120m, 46 | Railay | ★★★ Mega Classic | Wed 5th Jan 2005 | ||||
prob the best pitch i've done in thailand
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7b | ★★★ Lord of the Thais (Lord Of The Thais p4) | 120m, 46 | Railay | ★★★ Classic | Wed 5th Jan 2005 | ||||
Fell a 1st bolt, restarted pitch and rest clean. 2 cruxes, 2nd crux at 3/4 height. Nearly came off here too!
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7a+ | ★★★ Lord Of The Thais p3 | 120m, 46 | Railay | ★★★ Mega Classic | Wed 5th Jan 2005 | ||||
4 star climbing! Crux isn't too bad, with a rest before hand.
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6c+ 7b | ★★★ Lord of the Thais (Lord Of The Thais p2) | 120m, 46 | Railay | ★★ Very Good | Mon 24th Nov 2003 | ||||
Can you believe we did a whole afternoon of climbing on the wrong route? A word to the wise, if you want to do Circus Oz, step LEFT onto dark brown rock at the top of the first pitch, don't just blindly launch straight up the orange bulges. Nevertheless we had fun and did the whole route with only one fall.
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7a+ 7b | ★★★ Lord of the Thais (Lord Of The Thais p3) | 120m, 46 | Railay | ★★★ Mega Classic | Fri 27th Jan 2006 | ||||
the most amazing pitch of climbing I've done!
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6c+ 7b | ★★★ Lord of the Thais (Lord Of The Thais p2) | 120m, 46 | Railay | ★★ Very Good | Wed 1st Mar 2006 | ||||
outstanding
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6c+ 7b | ★★★ Lord of the Thais (Lord Of The Thais p2) | 120m, 46 | Railay | ★ Good | Mon 25th Apr 2011 | ||||
Got off route & climbed The Thais second pitch instead of Circus Oz (Thanks Jai).
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6c+ | ★★★ Lord Of The Thais p2 - with Igor | 120m, 46 | Railay | ★★★ Mega Classic | Tue 16th Oct 2012 | ||||
(Latest guidebook says 7a for this pitch) ... so when I got to the top of the first, I set up TR for Maria and co, after which Igor climbed to the top where I was with relative ease. He was up and ready straight away to lead the second pitch, and as he started, the other guys started TR'ing the first pitch, knocking the rope I was belaying Igor from off the ledge, which lead to the crappiest belaying I've ever done...Sorry Igor! After that, panic made me climb both cruxes clean... Incredible!!!!
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7a+ 7b | ★★★ Lord of the Thais (Lord Of The Thais p3) - with Igor | 120m, 46 | Railay | ★★★ Mega Classic | Tue 16th Oct 2012 | ||||
... so when we got to the second belay, we were very seriously thinking about bailing, but being at the base of what people call the "best pitch ever", was the only thing that made me swallow my fear and try and lead it. Best decision ever! Scary and balancy at first, then it becomes a true classic- has got it all, you name it! Feet came loose on the overhang, I was having so much fun! Got past both cruxes onsight, and actually pumped out with the victory jug in my hand- one fall! Classic!!!!
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6c+ 7b | ★★★ Lord of the Thais (Lord Of The Thais p2) | 120m, 46 | Railay | ★★ Very Good | Tue 16th Oct 2012 | ||||
Really scared leading this pitch due to being new at multipitching. Had to sit on the rope and work out the bottom section, but once past that it was pretty straight forward
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7a+ | ★★★ Lord Of The Thais p3 | 120m, 46 | Railay | ★★★ Classic | Tue 16th Oct 2012 | ||||
Was exhausted seconding this after not being able to figure out the start for ages. Excellent climbing
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7b | ★★★ Lord of the Thais | 120m, 46 | Railay | ★★★ Classic | Fri 15th Dec 2006 | ||||
6b+ / 6c+ / 7a+ / 7b / 6a+
Samen met Jaap
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6c+ | ★★★ Lord Of The Thais p2 | 120m, 46 | Railay | ★★ Very Good | Fri 2nd Dec 2016 | ||||
Harder than I remember it but got it clean. Pretty exposed crux
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7a+ 7b | ★★★ Lord of the Thais (Lord Of The Thais p3) | 120m, 46 | Railay | ★★★ Classic | Fri 2nd Dec 2016 | ||||
Felt a lot easier this trip. Got through all of the juggy section really easily and had plenty left for the top crux.
Got rained out for pitch 4 so had to come down
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7a+ 7b | ★★★ Lord of the Thais (Lord Of The Thais p3) | 120m, 46 | Railay | Mon 8th Jan 2018 | |||||
Awesome exposed climbing
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7b | ★★★ Lord of the Thais (Lord Of The Thais p4) | 120m, 46 | Railay | Mon 8th Jan 2018 | |||||
Committing moves. Compressed a nerve in the finger on a sharp pocket at the crux. Had to back off, Nice climbing though.
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7b |
★★★ Lord of the Thais
- with
Dan
1
6a+
25m
2
7a
28m
3
7a+
28m
4
7b
27m
5
6b
12m
| 120m, 46 | Railay | Fri 25th Oct 2019 | |||||
3rd pitch was fantastic and the top pitches had spectacular positioning and exposure.
(crux beta: RH undercling to get left hand high to good pocket. Then feet up and big move RH to top underside of crack. Then left hand 30cm up over crack to pocket. Then either left up for side pull or right hand far out to big hidden corner edge jug.
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6c+ | ★★★ Lord of the Thais - with Tom thecrusher | 53m, 46 | Railay | ★★★ Classic | Sun 19th Jan 2020 | ||||
First 2 pitches only although I really regret not doing the 3rd! But a little ambitious on the 2nd day climbing in Railay. We'll have to account for more time to get used to the rock/exposure next trip.
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7a+ |
★★★ Lord of the Thais
1
6a+
25m
2
7a
28m
3
7a+
28m
| 81m, 46 | Railay | Wed 12th Feb 2020 | |||||
First 3 pitches only.
Wicked exposure and great, non polished rock on pitches 2 and 3. Pulling through the roofs with that much air was something else. Beautiful views. Well bolted. Just a pain to rap off. |
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6a+ |
★★★ Lord of the Thais
| 25m, 46 | Railay | Tue 11th Feb 2020 | |||||
Rock quality in the end of pitch leaves a lot to be desired.
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7a+ | ★★★ Lord of the Thais - with Peatey | 81m, 46 | Railay | ★★★ Classic | Tue 11th Feb 2020 | ||||
So much fun, glad we did this. Ok fist pitch into non polished awesomeness. Pitch 2/3 were both constantly cool, varied climbing, with a hard crux after the joggy roof. Only first 3 pitches. Had many excuses for not doing the 7b - from its gonna storm to it looks hard to clean, but really we were just soft - next time (it did storm once down tho.. with a Chang in hand).
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6a+ |
★★★ Lord of the Thais (Lord of the Thais P1)
1
6a+
25m
| 25m, 46 | Railay | Thu 27th Feb 2020 | |||||
Only did 1st pitch. Excellent climbing with great variety of holds all the way up.
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6a+ |
★★★ Lord of the Thais (Lord of the Thais P1)
1
6a+
25m
| 25m, 46 | Railay | Average | Fri 28th Feb 2020 | ||||
Repeat. Felt even worse than first time. Very polished.
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7b | ★★★ Lord of the Thais | 120m, 46 | Railay | ★★★ Mega Classic | Fri 24th Jan 2014 | ||||
结组第三段是5.12a/b,大点仰角,要平衡。
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6a+ |
★★★ Lord of the Thais
1
6a+
35m
| 35m, 46 | Railay | ★★ Very Good | Sun 2nd Oct 2022 | ||||
Solo la primera reunion 6a+
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7b |
Ecopoint
★★★ Lord of the Thais
1
6a+
25
2
7a
28
3
7a+
28
4
7b
27
5
6b
12
| 120m, 46 | Railay | ★★★ Mega Classic | Fri 16th Dec 2022 | ||||
Amazing climb, the cruxes are quite short on the route but the climbing is amazing, remember to Back clip on the way down, we abseiled simil with a 70m worked quite well.
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7b | ★★★ Lord of the Thais | 120m, 46 | Railay | Fri 13th Jan 2023 | |||||
Most incredible multi. With romaine
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7b | ★★★ Lord of the Thais | 120m, 46 | Railay | Sun 19th Feb 2023 | |||||
First two pitches only.
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6a+ |
★★★ Lord of the Thais P1
1
6a+
25m
| 25m, 46 | Railay | Wed 15th Nov 2023 | |||||
Just first pitch
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7b |
★★★ Lord of the Thais
- with
Tory Henson
1
6a+
25m
2
7a
28m
3
7a+
28m
4
7b
27m
5
6b
12m
| 120m, 46 | Railay | Wed 22nd Nov 2023 | |||||
Sweet climb. All fun pitches apart from the last
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6a+ |
★★★ Lord of the Thais P1
1
6a+
25m
| 25m, 46 | Railay | ★★★ Classic | Fri 15th Dec 2023 | ||||
Great climbing with a bonus view. More bolts and slings then the guidebook states, go prepared.
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7b | ★★★ Lord of the Thais | 120m, 46 | Railay | Sat 16th Dec 2023 | |||||
Just the first pitch
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7b |
★★★ Lord of the Thais
1
6a+
25m
2
7a
28m
3
7a+
28m
4
7b
27m
5
6b
12m
| 120m, 46 | Railay | ★★★ Mega Classic | Mon 12th Feb 2024 | ||||
Climbing is great but what really makes the route exceptional is the view. Absolutely stunning.
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7b | ★★★ Lord of the Thais | 120m, 46 | Railay | Thu 17th Nov 2022 | |||||
Same day as sending ‘Helmet…’ mega route
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6b+ | ★★★ Humanality | 110m, 45 | Ton Sai | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sat 27th Dec 2003 | ||||
The best climb I did in Krabi...don't miss it.
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6b+ | ★★★ Humanality | 110m, 45 | Ton Sai | ★★★ Mega Classic | Thu 30th Dec 2004 | ||||
Gotta start up the tree!! Scariest climb I'v ever done!
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6b+ | ★★★ Humanality | 110m, 45 | Ton Sai | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sun 15th Jul 2007 | ||||
Had to take on the crux pitch.
Next time, no problem.
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6b+ | ★★★ Humanality | 110m, 45 | Ton Sai | ★★★ Mega Classic | Wed 7th Dec 2005 | ||||
With Trinh. Can't say anything that hasn't already been said.
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6b+ | ★★★ Humanality | 110m, 45 | Ton Sai | ★★★ Mega Classic | 1999 | ||||
I think this is only a mega-classic if u are not told baout the secret part, which i wasn't the first time.
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6b+ | ★★★ Humanality | 110m, 45 | Ton Sai | ★★★ Mega Classic | Thu 30th Dec 2004 | ||||
amazing the scaryest lead i've ever had on bolts soooo fun
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6b+ | ★★★ Humanality | 110m, 45 | Ton Sai | ★★★ Mega Classic | 2006 | ||||
1/1/06: First ascent of the year, and proposed to Sam at the top! (She said yes, which was just as well for her - mwuahaha!). 24/11/03: Worth the hype. Led 1, 3 and 5.
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6b+ | ★★★ Humanality | 110m, 45 | Ton Sai | ★★★ Mega Classic | Mon 4th Feb 2008 | ||||
1 fall on the second pitch, so unsatisfying! Paul H did a great lead on our early morning start (my last morning in Tonsai) and gave good beta on pitch 3 which has some funky topher moves. Beautiful view the whole way up
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6b+ | ★★★ Humanality | 110m, 45 | Ton Sai | ★★★ Classic | Sat 12th Feb 2005 | ||||
With a new Swedish friend who has the same interests (wakeboarding, river jumping... etc)
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6b+ | ★★★ Humanality | 110m, 45 | Ton Sai | 2005 | |||||
Worth the big wrap!
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6b+ | ★★★ Humanality | 110m, 45 | Ton Sai | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sat 2nd Sep 2000 | ||||
Climbed it with Canadian girl named Cam
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6b+ | ★★★ Humanality | 110m, 45 | Ton Sai | ★★★ Mega Classic | Mon 28th Feb 2005 | ||||
Amazing clinb! With Daniel. Led P2 & 4.
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6b+ | ★★★ Humanality | 110m, 45 | Ton Sai | ★★★ Mega Classic | Wed 18th Oct 2006 | ||||
dragged the chain again, much easier this time though
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6b+ | ★★★ Humanality | 110m, 45 | Ton Sai | ★★★ Mega Classic | 2005 | ||||
Worth the big wrap!
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6b+ | ★★★ Humanality | 110m, 45 | Ton Sai | 2004 | |||||
1hour 3 minutes bottom to bottom. Simul climbing.
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6b+ | ★★★ Humanality | 110m, 45 | Ton Sai | ★★ Very Good | Sun 2nd May 2004 | ||||
Three of us took four hours to complete the climb, including one hour just to reach the start
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6b+ | ★★★ Humanality | 110m, 45 | Ton Sai | ★★★ Classic | Wed 25th Oct 2006 | ||||
Awsome climbing - really enjoyable but smeg appoach climbing. Lead crux pitch. Climbed with Dr cranky.
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6b+ | ★★★ Humanality | 110m, 45 | Ton Sai | Average | Tue 27th Mar 2007 | ||||
First day I tried this I got smoked by the dude I was climbing with...then the sun came on the wall, and it all got a bit trickey, so I bailed to drink beer and try Lal Bab, which may explain why I couldnt pull the first move. Ticked it a couple of days later and then ticked Beauty and the Beast in the afternoon.
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6b+ | ★★★ Humanality | 110m, 45 | Ton Sai | ★★★ Mega Classic | Tue 13th Apr 2010 | ||||
Beautiful climb with breath-taking exposure! Thanks Steve.
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6b+ | ★★★ Humanality | 110m, 45 | Ton Sai | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sat 20th Mar 2004 | ||||
on 2nd pitch second 1,3,4
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6b+ | ★★★ Humanality | 110m, 45 | Ton Sai | ★★★ Classic | Sat 22nd Nov 2003 | ||||
Lorna in 2003, John in 2005
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6b+ | ★★★ Humanality | 110m, 45 | Ton Sai | Fri 17th Oct 2008 | |||||
alzheimers onsight. 10 years ago!!!
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6b+ | ★★★ Humanality | 110m, 45 | Ton Sai | ★★ Very Good | Mon 31st Dec 2007 | ||||
Lots of fun!
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6b+ | ★★★ Humanality | 110m, 45 | Ton Sai | ★★★ Classic | Sun 8th Jan 2006 | ||||
noice!
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6b+ | ★★★ Humanality | 110m, 45 | Ton Sai | ★★★ Mega Classic | Fri 20th May 2005 | ||||
One of the best climbs I've ever done
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6b+ | ★★★ Humanality | 110m, 45 | Ton Sai | ★★★ Mega Classic | Thu 7th Feb 2002 | ||||
awesome third pitch!
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6b+ | ★★★ Humanality | 110m, 45 | Ton Sai | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sun 21st Mar 2004 | ||||
With Rob and Kizza. I was so psyched to lead the third pitch that I took off like a rocket, and Kizza had to remind me I needed to unclip from the anchor. Threw myself at the climb, and like thousands before me, and despite three years of anecdotes about the famous stalactite, the problem solving was still novel and unique.
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6b+ | ★★★ Humanality | 110m, 45 | Ton Sai | ★★★ Classic | Sun 13th Sep 2009 | ||||
Didn't see the huge tufa behind me on third pitch...
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6b+ | ★★★ Humanality | 110m, 45 | Ton Sai | ★★★ Classic | Tue 1st Jun 2004 | ||||
Behind you!
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6b+ | ★★★ Humanality | 110m, 45 | Ton Sai | ★★★ Mega Classic | Thu 15th Dec 2005 | ||||
simply awesome at night
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6b+ | ★★★ Humanality | 110m, 45 | Ton Sai | Average | Sun 1st Oct 2006 | ||||
The "classic" is the one move onto the stalagtites. The rest is kinda average.
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6b+ | ★★★ Humanality | 110m, 45 | Ton Sai | ★★★ Mega Classic | Tue 20th Feb 2007 | ||||
8 hour epic in the sun. Would have enjoyed it so much more compressed to 2 hours.
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6b+ | ★★★ Humanality | 110m, 45 | Ton Sai | ★★★ Classic | Sat 3rd Jun 2006 | ||||
With Kendra. Crazy Dave soloed the route to meet us at the top.
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6b+ | ★★★ Humanality | 110m, 45 | Ton Sai | ★★★ Mega Classic | Mon 9th Apr 2007 | ||||
Climbed up into the stalagtite. Freaky cool.
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6b+ | ★★★ Humanality | 110m, 45 | Ton Sai | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sat 26th Feb 2005 | ||||
Stunning, rave, rave, rave!
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6b+ | ★★★ Humanality | 110m, 45 | Ton Sai | ★ Good | Wed 11th Jan 2006 | ||||
Crap bottom pitches. 3rd and 4th are good. Led 1st, 3rd and 4th.
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6b+ | ★★★ Humanality | 110m, 45 | Ton Sai | ★★ Very Good | Wed 11th Feb 2004 | ||||
Not as good as the hype - the stalactite pitch was great, but the climbing on the others really wasn't too exciting. With Val, Jackie and Wayne.
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