Grade | Route | Gear style | Popularity | Crag | |
---|---|---|---|---|---|
6a | ★★★ The Groove Tube
A must do! Climbs up the tube to the far right. Optional start through the hole. All slings. 1st pitch of Polish-Czech. Set: Mark Maffe, 1995 | 25m, 11 | Ton Sai | ||
6b+ | ★★ Missing Snow
Great climbing, but very popular and polished. Bouldery move to easy climbing and ridiculous tubular jugs. Left and up, Choose your own adventure from here to anchors at the cave. All titanium bolts. Set: Christian Neumeyer & Reinhold Scherer, 1997 | 20m, 8 | Ton Sai | ||
6a | ★ Schlingal Moritz
Hard start for the grade, especially when you're short. All titanium bolts. Set: Michael Hoffmann, 1992 | 15m, 6 | Ton Sai | ||
6c+ | ★★★ The Lion King
Climbs around the prominent flake with insanely polished feet. Though the crux awaits right before the anchor. All titanium bolts. Set: Volker Schoeffl, Melanie Schoeffl & Sam Lightner, 1996 | 12m, 4 | Ton Sai | ||
6b | ★ Schlingel Max
Interesting crux on polished rock. 5 titanium bolts, 1 sling. Set: Michael Hoffmann, 1992 | 15m, 6 | Ton Sai | ||
6b+ | ★★★ Humanality
1
5
15m
2
6b
10m
3
6a+
20m
4
6b
22m
5
6b+
25m
6
6b
10m
7
6a
10m
Could be 5, 6 or 7 piches, depending how you see the climb.
Three raps with a 60m rope on separate abseil anchors from the top of pitch 5. If you have a 70m rope, you can rap straight from the top of pitch 6 to the next set of anchors. Set: Greg Collum & Trevor Massiah, 1995 Set: Shamick Byszewski, 1996 | 110m, 7, 45 | Ton Sai | ||
7a | ★★ Babes in Thailand
Popular climb on pinches and jugs. All titanium bolts. Set: Will Hair, 1994 | 12m, 5 | Ton Sai | ||
6c+ | ★★ Stalagasaurus
Original grade 6a+. Upgraded after breakage of a huge stalactite in 2004. Good climbing other than the broken section, which wrecks thew flow. Still fun and still worth it. 6 titanium bolts, 1 sling. Set: Will Hair, 1994 | 13m, 7 | Ton Sai | ||
6c | ★★ Viking in Heat
Head up the ladder then straight up the wall, which gets increasingly overhanging. 6 titanium bolts, 1 sling. Set: Max Dufford & Greg Collum, 1992 | 20m, 7 | Ton Sai | ||
6b | ★★ Big Wave
1
6a+
30m
2
6b
25m
3
6b
26m
4
6b
30m
Shares the start pitch with 'The Beauty & the Beast', then climbs up left for three beautiful and homogeneous pitches.
From the midway anchor of P4 rap down four times with a 60m rope via a line of separate abseil anchors. Set: Tom Cecil & Kathryn Stedham, 2004 | 110m, 4, 33 | Ton Sai | ||
6a+ | ★★ For Helga
Nice long run. All titanium bolts. 1st pitch of Burning down the House. Set: Shamick Byszewski, Tanja & Heidi, 1999 | 30m, 11 | Ton Sai | ||
6a+ | ★★ Make a Way
Shares the start with 'Big Shit', then veers right about halfway up. All titanium bolts. Share anchor with Confusion. Set: Cyro Glad, 1996 | 27m, 10 | Railay | ||
6b | ★★ Cowabungalow
The leftmost line on the terrace right of 'Humanality'. All titanium bolts. Set: Will Hair, 1994 | 25m, 7 | Ton Sai | ||
7a+ | ★★ Lal Bab
Early crux, followed by big powerful moves on jugs in the first half, then much easier and less steep to the top. All titanium bolts. Set: Ian Tumball, 1995 | 14m, 5 | Ton Sai | ||
6b+ | ★ Longes Feschtl
All titanium bolts. Share anchor with Kuahtittnseppl. Set: Christian Neumeyer & Reinhold Scherer, 1997 | 18m, 6 | Ton Sai | ||
6b | ★★ Boobtube
Another great long line with a tricky 3D crux in the small roof. 7 titanium bolts, 5 slings. Set: Shamick Byszewski, Tanja & Heidi, 1999 | 30m, 12 | Ton Sai | ||
6a+ | ★★ We Sad
5 titanium bolts, 3 slings. Set: B. Chamber, L. Reeves & V. Rachsang, 1993 | 25m, 8 | Railay | ||
6b | ★★ Monkey Love
Exposed line through the tufa system. All slings. Set: Greg Collum & Larissa Collum, 1992 Maint: Rock and Sun, Jan 2023 | 25m, 7 | Railay | ||
7a | ★★ Circus Oz
1
6a+
25m
2
6b+
25m
3
7a
45m
4
6b
28m
Popular and will get you as far of the deck as you will get in this area. Take 14 quickdraws and two 60m ropes. Be aware that the upper pitches are not rebolted with titanium!
Descend via the anchors of 'Lord of the Thais'. Three raps to the ground with two 60m ropes. Backclip to stay on the wall! Set: M. Matheson, G, R. Smith & G. Tempest | 120m, 4, 41 | Railay | ||
6b | ★★ Massage Secrets
1
5
13m
2
6a+
17m
3
6b
7m
Only P1 and P2 can be climbed. P3 is on old expansion bolts and climbs on loose rock.
Set: Francois Burnier & Dominique Potard, 1990 Set: Dean Saydom, 1990 | 37m, 3, 13 | Railay | ||
6b | ★★ Short and Savage
Short climb up the steep face. Titanium bolts. Set: Unknown, 1997 | 8m, 2 | Railay | ||
6c | ★★ Hin Rong Hai
Do not skip the crux by going right towards the anchor -- only 6b then and risk of breaking the fragile tufas. All titanium bolts. Set: Max Dufford & Divinder Singh, 1992 | 22m, 7 | Ton Sai | ||
6b+ | ★★ Muay Thai
Crux at the first overhang. Be careful, a lead fall can be dangerous with the ledge below. All titanium bolts. Set: Francois Burnier & Dominique Potard, 1990 | 15m, 5 | Railay | ||
7b | ★★ Café Andaman
Climbs straight up the obvious tufa, then traverses left. Finishes in the small cave next to the anchor. Top section can seep after rain. Titanium bolts. Set: Greg Collum & Trevor Massiah, 1994 | 10m, 4 | Ton Sai | ||
6a+ | ★★ Hello Christine
Shares the anchor with 'Same Same, But Different' and Milky Way. All titanium bolts. Set: Thomas Arnold, 1997 | 20m, 7 | Railay | ||
6a+ | ★ Nuat Hin
Shares the start with 'Bad Boy' and Pattica Samupade. Then climbs up right into the cave. 6 titanium bolts, 1 sling. Set: Francois Burnier & Dominique Potard, 1990 | 15m, 7 | Railay | ||
6c | ★★★ Diana Ross
Follow fixed red draw to go straight up until climb over the ledge then turn right for 1 more thread. The anchor is around the corner at right. Have fixed draw for all the thread, only need one quick draw for the only one bolt. | 23m, 11 | The North Wall | ||
6a | ★ Hello Christine
All slings. Set: Wee Changrua, 1997 | 17m, 8 | Railay | ||
7c | ★★★ Tidal Wave
Very popular and very polished, short and powerful with a tendency to spit you off with sloppy beta. Make sure your belayer is paying attention otherwise you could end up with a mouth full of sand. All titanium bolts. Share anchor with Hang Ten. Set: Greg Collum & Larissa Collum, 1992 | 10m, 5 | Ton Sai | ||
6a | ★★ Find a Heart
Set: Rock and Sun FA: Rock and Sun, Feb 2020 | 15m, 10 | The North Wall | ||
6a | ★★ A Man Can Tell a 1000 Lies
Short chimney climb through the tufa system. All slings. Set: Elke Schmitz, 1999 | 15m, 4 | Railay | ||
5 | ★ King Cobra
Guiding route through the corner. It hardly gets more polished than this! Titanium bolts. Share start with Confusion and Orientales. Set: Francois Burnier & Dominique Potard, 1990 | 13m, 5 | Railay | ||
6b+ | ★★ White Hot Hernias
Very polished on the crux, just after traversing left onto the wall. Stick-clip first bolt. 5 titanium bolts, 2 slings. Share anchor with Fire Starter. Set: Gavin Punnell & Sharyn George, 1996 | 16m, 7 | Ton Sai | ||
6a | ★★ Keep Yourself Alive
Must-do climb! Climbs the obvious corner right of 'MadMax'. Jugs and bridging, slightly polished footholds. All titanium bolts. | 25m, 13 | The North Wall | ||
6a+ | ★★ Up in Smoke
The orange pockety rock just left of 'Fire Show'. 3 titanium bolts, 6 slings. Set: Bob Elder, 2007 | 17m, 9 | Ton Sai | ||
5 | ★ Ling Noi
Another guiding route. Titanium bolts. Set: Dean Saydom, 1994 | 10m, 3 | Railay | ||
6a+ | ★ Snake Whisky
Use the fixed rope for the belayer. Titanium bolts and slings. Set: Wee Changrua, 2001 | 26m, 9 | Ton Sai | ||
6c | ★★★ Nut Cracker
Great technical face climb with multiple small cruxes. 6 titanium bolts, 1 sling. Set: Greg Collum & Trevor Massiah, 1995 | 25m, 7 | Railay | ||
6a+ | ★ Money Maker
Start on the left side of the Money Maker pillar and go straight up. Top half is nice and delicate. 4 titanium bolts, 1 sling. | 22m, 5 | Railay | ||
6a+ | ★ Primal Scream
Polished rock. 4 titanium bolts, 3 slings. Share anchor with Solution 41. Set: Greg Collum & Jeff, 1992 | 15m, 7 | Railay | ||
6b | ★★ Gengis Bond
Great 3D climbing with good rests up a series of stalactite features. It's long, make sure you have enough rope and tie a knot in the end of your rope. 13 titanium bolts, 2 slings. Set: Greg Collum & Trevor Massiah, 1995 | 32m, 15 | Railay | ||
6b | ★ Wacky Weed
6 titanium bolts, 2 slings. Set: Tom Cecil & Mark Miner, 2001 | 23m, 8 | Ton Sai | ||
6c | ★★★ Babo Does Thailand
The best line at 'The Keep'. Not hard but stella climbing the whole way. All titanium bolts. Set: Jim Yoder & Marlene Ford, 1996 | 28m, 11 | Railay | ||
7a | ★★ Lars & Lars
Balancy and bold. Shares the start with 'Affentanz', then straight up. All titanium bolts. Set: Lars Jones & Lars Gilberg, 2004 | 25m, 9 | Ton Sai | ||
6c | ★ Placebo
Endurance climb with a stiff crux over the bulge. All titanium bolts. Set: Bjoern Alber, Mon Alber & Robert Baier, 2008 | 19m, 8 | Ton Sai | ||
6c | ★★ Good Medicine
One pockety tough crux towards the middle, then smooth sailing - top is a beautiful and much easier slab. All titanium bolts. Set: Bjoern Alber, Nantawan Alber & Robert Baier, 2006 | 23m, 7 | Ton Sai | ||
7a+ | ★★★ Wake & Bake
Climbs the obvious corner crack. Shares anchors with 'By Way of Deception'. All titanium bolts. Set: Cyro Glad, 1992 | 16m, 7 | Ton Sai | ||
7a | ★★ Freedom Safari
7 titanium bolts, 3 slings. Set: Paul Turecki & Kirsten Kremer, 2000 | 28m, 10 | Ton Sai | ||
7a+ | ★★ Riesenbaby
Stiff start up to the cauliflower, then traverses right on the rails. Nice moves, though very polished. All titanium bolts. Set: Sam Lightner, Gerd Schoeffl & Volker Schoeffl, 1993 | 10m, 4 | Ton Sai | ||
6a+ | ★★ Banana Hammock | 25m, 7 | Ton Sai | ||
5 | ★★ Carrie On
Start on tufa. Finish on anchor to the right of The Stoneman FA: Rock and Sun Set: Rock and Sun, Feb 2020 | 20m | The North Wall | ||
5 | ★ Giggerig for Climbing
Another short and easy line used for guiding. Titanium bolts. Set: Pep Masip, 1995 | 12m, 4 | Railay | ||
6a | ★ I Don't Know
Short corner climb on sharp rock. All slings. FA: Wee Changrua, 1999 | 15m, 5 | Railay | ||
6c | ★★★ Orange Chandeliers
1
6b
32m
2
6b+
18m
3
6c
25m
The most popular line on the 'Ao Nang Tower'.
Set: Will Hair & Dean Saydom, 1994 Set: Paul Brunner & Marcel Eckhardt, 1996 Set: Paul Brunner & Trevor Massiah, 1997 | 75m, 3, 28 | Ao Nang Tower | ||
6a | ★★ Ramazon
Directly left of 'Kratoy', climbing the left side of the cave. All titanium bolts. Set: Bjoern Alber & Nantawan Alber, 2011 | 24m, 10 | Railay | ||
7b | ★★★ Lord of the Thais
1
6a+
25m
2
7a
28m
3
7a+
28m
4
7b
27m
5
6b
12m
One of the best routes in Thailand, maybe the world? Take 15 quickdraws and two 60m ropes.
Descend by rapping down three times with two 60m ropes. Backclip to stay on the wall! FA: Sam Lightner, Greg Collum & Larissa Collum, 1992 | 120m, 5, 46 | Railay | ||
7a | ★ Keep the Jam, Man
1
6a+
20m
2
6a
15m
3
7a
35m
Old multi-pitch climb. Rusty expansion bolts and old slings on the upper two pitch. Only climb P1, which is therefore listed as a separate route. 3 titanium bolts, 4 threads. Set: Nick Blaise & Martin Carstens, 1995 Set: Nick Blaise & Martin Carstens, 1995 | 70m, 3, 15 | Railay | ||
6a | ★ Caroline's Last Day P1
The leftmost line up the tufa system. All slings. Set: Frank Brassard, 2005 FA: Frank Brassard, 2005 | 22m, 9 | Ton Sai | ||
6a+ | ★ Cobra Head
Use the fixed rope for the belayer. Titanium bolts and slings. Set: Wee Changrua, 2001 | 25m, 12 | Ton Sai | ||
6a+ | ★ Valentine
Short climb with a cool little cave you can peek into. Solid rock, less polished than the routes over at 'One-Two-Three' wall. 3 titanium bolts, 4 slings. Set: Jack Werajack, 1996 | 12m, 7 | Railay | ||
6a+ | ★★ Fit to be Thaid
A little sharp but otherwise fun climbing Set: Sam Lightner & Greg Collum, 1992 | 25m, 12 | Railay | ||
6c | ★★★ Best Route in Minnesota
Awesome route on a pinacle in the giant cave on the left. Not rebolted with titanium. All stainless steel glue-in bolts. Set: Todd Skinner & Mike Tupper, 1993 | 25m, 14 | Railay | ||
5 | ★ Shadow Show
Just before the boulders towards 'One-Two-Three', up the white streak. 3 titanium bolts, 1 sling Share start with Idapaccayada. Set: Sam Lightner, 1994 | 12m, 4 | Railay | ||
7b | ★★★ Ton Sai Playboy
Very popular, easy start to pumpy roof climbing. Just keep moving all the way to the anchors! Very fun! Take the left line after the fourth bolt, or you end up in 'Playboy Connection'. Titanium bolts and slings. Holds broke recently making it a bit harder. Set: Han, 2006 | 15m, 7 | Ton Sai | ||
6c | ★ No Name
Pumpy start through the overhang left of 'Schlingel Max'. Easier finish. 1 titanium bolt, 4 slings. Set: Paul Turecki & Kirsten Kremer, 1999 | 15m, 5 | Ton Sai | ||
6a+ | ★★ Where Eagles Don't Dare
Beautiful through the obvious corner. Nice bridging moves and a rewarding view at the top. 7 titanium bolts, 2 slings. Set: Wee Changrua, Todd Offenbacher & Mark Miner, 1998 | 30m, 9 | Ton Sai | ||
6c | ★★★ Covid-19
Awesome, fun, pumpy! Watch out for small breaky holds as new climb, needs some time to settle. 3 Titanium Bolts 8 Slings Set: DnD, Leif & Jai, 14 Mar 2022 | 16m, 11 | The North Wall | ||
6c+ | ★★ Loisl
Hard for the grade. Consider stick-clipping the first bolt. All titanium bolts. Set: Christian Neumeyer & Reinhold Scherer, 1997 | 19m, 7 | Ton Sai | ||
6c | ★★ Mutual of Omaha
7 titanium bolts, 1 sling. Set: Mark Miner & Cameron Fairburn, 2000 | 25m, 8 | Ton Sai | ||
6b | ★★★ Natalie
Obvious line behind tufa curtains. The crux, which is well protected, is getting to the anchor. There are two easier second pitches which continue on from the top of this route. Maybe bring a bottle of water and do all three. The belay station for the second pitches is comfortable. All three routes, this one and the two vertically above it, are always in the shade and almost immune to rainfall. | 23m, 11 | The North Wall | ||
7a | ★★ Cyber Punks
Pumpy and SUPER fun! Reminds me of Tidal Wave. Fixed red draws 😁👍 Set: DnD, 5 Apr 2022 FA: DnD, 6 Apr 2022 | 15m, 7 | The North Wall | ||
6b | ★ Monkey's Bum
First climb as you enter 'The Keep'. Move up slimy tufas, then continue up. Awful anchor placement. 5 titanium bolts, 2 slings. Set: Greg Collum & Trevor Massiah, 1995 | 20m, 7 | Railay | ||
6a | ★ Roi-Et
Short climb left of the corner on sharp rock. All slings. Set: Tu-101, 2009 | 17m, 6 | Railay | ||
7a+ | ★ Caveman
1
6a+
15m
2
7a+
17m
Shares the start with 'Out of Sticks', then further right up the crack. Can be climbed as one pitch. 11 titanium bolts, 1 sling. Set: Greg Collum & Larissa Collum, 1992 | 32m, 2, 12 | Railay | ||
7b | ★★ The Tiger Queen
Easy start towards a crimpy crux. All titanium bolts. Set: Ola Brahammar, 2006 | 12m, 4 | Ton Sai | ||
6b+ | ★★ On the Terrace
Starts on the very right edge of the upper terrace. Start is a little hard to read. 5 titanium bolts, 4 slings. Set: Mark Maffei & Alex Wenner, 1992 | 20m, 11 | Ton Sai | ||
6c | ★★ Jumping for Jugs
As the name suggests, jump for the jug to start. All titanium bolts. Set: Cyro Glad, 1993 | 15m, 6 | Ton Sai | ||
6b+ | ★★ Same Same, But Different
Starts right of 'Milky Way', then joins it after traversing left along the crack. Straight up to the anchor of 'Hello Christine'. 6 titanium bolts, 1 sling. Set: Thomas Arnold, 1997 | 20m, 7 | Railay | ||
6b+ | ★★ The Sit Spins
Shares the start with 'Asia Shadow Play'. Traverses right, then up along the crack. Be careful, the crux just above the ledge is badly protected. All titanium bolts. Set: Sam Lightner, Gerd Schoeffl & Volker Schoeffl, 1995 | 20m, 8 | Ton Sai | ||
7b+ | ★★★ The King and I
1
7a
30m
2
6a
36m
3
7b+
38m
4
6b
12m
A fun climb, especially the second pitch. Take 14 quickdraws and two 60m ropes.
Descend via the anchors of 'Lord of the Thais'. Three raps to the ground with two 60m ropes. Backclip to stay on the wall! Set: Sam Lightner, Jacob Valdez & Somporn Suebhait, 1992 | 120m, 4, 37 | Railay | ||
7b | ★★★ April Fools
Awesome route, big holds, steep and pumpy. Very easy for the grade. All titanium bolts. Set: Rich Prohaska & Shamick Byszewski, 1996 | 30m, 10 | Ton Sai | ||
6a+ | ★★ Sushi
Everybody likes Sushi! Set: DnD, 8 Jun 2021 | 14m, 5 | The North Wall | ||
6b | ★★ I No Speak England
Starts at the platform of the Freedom Bar. Crux is right at the start. 5 stainless steel glue-in bolts, 6 slings. Set: Han, 2006 | 25m, 11 | Ton Sai | ||
7a+ | ★★ Mai Mee Fahn
Hard crux right at the start to get up to the tufas. Afterwards easier, but continuous. Reachy both at the start and towards the anchor. All titanium bolts. Set: Todd Skinner, 1993 | 15m, 5 | Ton Sai | ||
6c | ★★ [Closed] Beauty and the Beast
The route has been closed and the crux bolts removed (see comments). The original description is preserved for posterity: Awesome route !!! A little bit psycho when you must fall on the tufa. Seems to be 6c for people under 1.70m, for the other 6a+. But, you should do this route!!! Set: Bjoern Alber & Nantawan Alber, 2005 | 15m | Ton Sai | ||
6a+ | ★ Mosquito Coil
3 titanium bolts, 4 slings. Set: Ralph Dietrich, Heide Dietrich & Vitsanu Rashsang, 1999 | 20m, 7 | Railay | ||
6c+ | ★★ Concrete Jungle
8 titanium bolts, 1 sling. Shares first two slings with “Mutual of Omaha” and then goes left at the small roof. Set: Tom Cecil & Mark Miner, 2000 | 25m, 9 | Ton Sai | ||
6c | ★★★ Medusa's Lover
Sharp start leads to an interesting mid section and some fun tufa action. Starts on top of the big boulder. All titanium bolts. Set: Greg Collum & Trevor Massiah, 1995 | 26m, 10 | Railay | ||
6b | ★ Captain Hook
Shares the anchor with 'Right Hand of Buddha'. 3 titanium bolts, 2 slings. Set: Tom Cecil & Chris Carr, 1996 | 15m, 5 | Ton Sai | ||
6a | ★ Chok Dee
Shares the start with 'Mot Daeng', then straight up the left bolt line. 3 titanium bolts, 3 slings. Set: Dean Saydom, 2000 | 20m, 6 | Railay | ||
6b | ★★ The Beauty & the Beast
1
6a+
30m
2
6a+
25m
3
6b
30m
4
6b
3rd pitch is the beauty, 1st pitch is the beast. The second pitch just connects the two. The first pitch is shared with 'Big Wave'.
From the top of P3, it is also possible to traverse out left, wiggle through a hole in the cave, and finish up on the last pitch of 'Big Wave'. This finish slightly raises the grade, but dramatically increases the fun. Descend by rapping down three times from the anchor of P3 with a 60m rope. Set: Tom Cecil, 2004 Set: Drew Spaulding & Adam Weiner, 2006 | 85m, 4, 28 | Ton Sai | ||
6a | ★ Selee
The leftmost line on 'One-Two-Three', just left of 'Samiboy'. 1 titanium bolt, 3 slings. Set: Wee Changrua, 1997 | 10m, 4 | Railay | ||
6b | ★★ Dr. Desire
60 meters rope is minimum. Tie a knot at the end of the rope. Set: Rock and Sun FA: Rock and Sun, Dec 2016 | 33m, 17 | The North Wall | ||
6b+ | ★★★ Life of Leif
1
6a
17m
2
6b+
11m
Climb as one pitch, 28m to the ground from the top. 11 titanium bolts, 6 slings. Take 19 draws, you can get by with 17 if you use the anchors… | 28m, 2, 19 | The North Wall | ||
6b | ★ Space Head Gone Ape
All titanium bolts. Set: S. Beverage & Ian Turnbull, 1995 | 11m, 5 | Railay | ||
6b | ★★ Exfoliation
The leftmost line, starting from the boulder. Tricky technical line. All titanium bolts. TI Anchor ring (2022) Set: Fred & Bob, 2011 | 20m, 11 | Chong Phli - Spirit Mountain | ||
6a+ | ★★ EFZ
Shares the first half with 'Family Affair', then straight up to the left lower anchor. 3 bolts, 10 slings. TI Anchor ring (2022) Set: Mike, Leif, Dean & Simon, 2011 | 26m, 13 | Chong Phli - Spirit Mountain | ||
6a+ | ★ Snake Skin
Use the fixed rope for the belayer. 5 titanium bolts, 6 slings. Set: Wee Changrua & Tu, 2004 | 20m, 11 | Ton Sai | ||
6a+ | ★★ Reindeer Request
FA: Kraisak (Tom) Boonthip | 22m, 10 | Crazy Horse | ||
6a+ | ★ Sameboy
2 titanium bolts, 3 slings. Set: Wee Changrua & Selee, 1997 | 12m, 5 | Railay |