Grade | Route | Gear style | Popularity | Crag | |
---|---|---|---|---|---|
E1 5b | ★★★ Flying Buttress Direct
FA: D. Lomas, 1956 FFA: Paul Grey, 1966 | 20m | Stanage | ||
VD 4a | ★★ Hollybush Crack
The clean crack in the right facing corner. The lower section is somewhat polished and is the crux while the upper section is a bit more juggy but still interesting. Good gear throughout. FA: George Bower, 1926 | 14m | Stanage | ||
HVS 5a | ★★★ Three Pebble Slab | 12m | Froggatt Edge | ||
HS 4b | ★★ Christmas Crack
FA: George Bower, 1926 | 15m | Stanage | ||
HVS 4c | ★★★ Sunset Slab | 12m | Froggatt Edge | ||
HVS 5a | ★★★ The Right Unconquerable
Starting at the crack in the centre of the unconquerables, head left through the series of under clinging flakes. | 17m | Stanage | ||
E1 5b | ★★★ The Left Unconquerable
| 17m | Stanage | ||
HVS 5a | ★★★ Bond Street | 22m | Millstone Edge | ||
VD | ★★★ Little Chamonix
| 72m, 4 | Borrowdale | ||
HVS 5a | ★★★ Tody's Wall
FA: Joe Brown, 1948 | 18m | Froggatt Edge | ||
HVD 3c | ★★ Heather Wall
Jam and lay back the obvious crack to the left of the wall | 16m | Froggatt Edge | ||
HVS 5b | ★★★ Great Portland Street | 21m | Millstone Edge | ||
VD | ★★ Fluted Columns | 14m | Almscliff | ||
VD | ★★★ Heaven Crack
Layback the flake just left of the descent gully. Tricky move to finish. | 10m | Stanage | ||
HS 4c | ★★ Sunset Crack
FA: Len Chapman & Bob Tomsett, 1948 | 12m | Froggatt Edge | ||
HVS 5a | ★★★ Great North Road | 35m | Millstone Edge | ||
S 4b | ★★ Crack and Corner
Lovely crack climbing up the obvious (and very polished) corner. | 16m | Stanage | ||
HS 4a | ★★ Green Gut | 14m | Froggatt Edge | ||
HS 4b | ★★ Manchester Buttress
Classy climbing that tests the rope work. FA: Maurice Linnel, 1930 | 16m | Stanage | ||
VS 4c | ★★ Embankment 2
1
VS 4c
16m
2
4b
14m
| 30m, 2 | Millstone Edge | ||
HS 4b | ★★ Bird's Nest Crack
Put up pre 1900. Straight up the crack, move right to grab the strange protruberance and up again. Becoming more and more polished. FA: Herbert Ingle & Edward Calvert. | 10m | Almscliff | ||
VS 4c | ★★★ Hargreave's Original Route
FA: Albert Hargreaves, 1928 | 16m | Stanage | ||
E1 5b | ★★ Embankment 3
1
E1 5b
16m
2
5b
14m
FA: Ed Drummond, 1975 | 30m, 2 | Millstone Edge | ||
VS 4c | ★★★ The Mississippi Buttress Direct
Start in leaning groove, climb to bridge below bulges then follow flake crack which eases off towards the top. FA: Roy Horseman, 1927 | 22m | Stanage | ||
VS 4c | ★★ Heather Wall
| 14m | Stanage | ||
VS 4c | ★ Trapeze Direct
Straightforward climb directly up the crack | 12m | Froggatt Edge | ||
VS 4b | ★★ Inverted V
FA: Cyril Ward, 1922 | 22m | Stanage | ||
HVS 5a | ★★★ Chequers Buttress | 14m | Froggatt Edge | ||
HS 4b | ★★ April Crack
FA: Herbert Hartley, 1928 | 15m | Stanage | ||
HS 4b | ★★★ Paradise Wall
| 14m | Stanage | ||
VS 4c | ★★ Central Trinity
| 15m | Stanage | ||
S 4a | ★ Black Hawk Hell Crack
| 14m | Stanage | ||
HVS 5a | ★★ Knights Move
A classic climb. FA: Gilbert Ellis. 1933. | 16m | Burbage Valley | ||
HS 4b | ★ Diamond Crack
Jam up the stunning crack - steep strenuous and well protected. | 8m | Froggatt Edge | ||
E1 5b | ★★ Embankment 4 | 30m | Millstone Edge | ||
HVS 5a | ★★★ Great Western
A 4 star route in the guide. Climb 'Crack of Doom' to the roof, then traverse leftwards to a hard pull into a rest in the niche. Finish either direct or up right via 'The Five Star Finish'. Is generally considered THE best climb on grit, some disagree. FA: Arthur Dolphin & Robert Heap. 19/09/43. | 15m | Almscliff | ||
E2 5c | ★★★ Regent Street | 22m | Millstone Edge | ||
D 4b | ★ Low Man Easy Way | 13m | Almscliff | ||
HVD 4a | ★★★ Flying Buttress
FA: Fergus Graham, 1922 | 24m | Stanage | ||
HVS 4c | ★★ The Mall | 22m | Millstone Edge | ||
HS 4a | ★★ Right Hand Trinity
The long crack in the wall is started at a small rightward facing corner then direct up. | 13m | Stanage | ||
HVS 5a | ★★★ Queersville
| 15m | Stanage | ||
VS 4c | ★★ Via Media
| 11m | Stanage | ||
HVS 5c | ★★ Chequers Crack | 12m | Froggatt Edge | ||
HVS 5a | ★★★ Goliath's Groove
Start in the difficult off-width corner to gain a rest above. Then climb to glory up the corner crack to the top. | 22m | Stanage | ||
D | ★★ Alison Rib
The gentle and beautifully textured granite arete provides an ideal initiation to the more manageable routes at Bosigran. Pitches 1 & 2 are usually combined.
FA: D G Romanis, 1923 | 59m, 3 | Bosigran | ||
HVS 5b | ★★★ Congo Corner
FA: Peter Biven, 1954 | 24m | Stanage | ||
VS 4c | ★★★ High Neb Buttress
| 20m | Stanage | ||
S 4a | ★ North Climb
Climb the wide crack to the left hand end of the slab. FA: James W Puttrell, Henry Bishop & C Douglas Yeomans, 1906 | 12m | Froggatt Edge | ||
HS 4a | ★★ Robin Hood's Right-Hand Buttress Direct
FA: Cyril Ward, 1922 | 23m | Stanage | ||
S 4a | ★ Allen's Slab
Start up Gamma then head right at the diagonal crack along sparse gear, continue to traverse right along the scooped ledge then finish up jugs left of Trapeze Direct | 16m | Froggatt Edge | ||
D 3a | ★ Mucky Gully
a nice easy ascent following the wall on the right of the gully and about 5m from the top changing to the left following a nice and tight chimney up for the last part. a strong line and good climbing make this a popular and impressive undertaking. start about 10m right of the point that the approach path begins to drop down towards the main area. | 48m, 2 | The Dewerstone | ||
S 4a | ★★ Black and Tans
1
S 4a
12m
2
3c
18m
A superior variation on Black Velvet. Climb the corner half way up that route, but move out left to a possible belay. Climb the corner above to an exposed nose which is climbed by a series of awkward and poorly protected mantelshelves FA: A S 'Fred' Pigott, 1922 | 30m, 2 | Staffordshire | ||
HVD | Stew Pot | 11m | Almscliff | ||
S 4b | ★ Pinnacle Flake Climb | 12m | Almscliff | ||
HS | ★★ Central Groove
a truly wonderful climb, they don't come much better. the climbing is straightforward but intimidating with good protection placements. start beneath the central corner | 48m, 2 | The Dewerstone | ||
S 4b | ★ 20-foot Crack | 6m | Burbage Valley | ||
HVS 5a | ★★ Avalanche Wall
FA: Joe Brown | 12m | Curbar Edge | ||
VD | ★ Trapeze
Start as for Trapeze Direct to the bulge then traverse right to the left trending groove. Keep heading right to finish as for Nursery Slab | 14m | Froggatt Edge | ||
HS 4b | ★ Castle Crack
| 18m | Stanage | ||
S 4b | ★ First Corner
The first of two well-protected, classic corner-lines. A good introduction to the area. Start at the bottomless corner that forms the left hand side of the sheer wall, left of ‘The Bad Step’. 14m: Pull straight into the corner… | 14m | Swanage | ||
VD 4b | ★ Morpheus | 3 | Avon Gorge | ||
S 4a | ★★ Bishop's Route
| 25m | Stanage | ||
VS 4b | ★★ Covent Garden | 35m | Millstone Edge | ||
VS 4c | ★★ Paradise Arete
| 14m | Stanage | ||
VD | ★★ Leaning Buttress Crack
The long groove on the right side of the pillar. Good pro throughout. | 14m | Stanage | ||
VS 4b | ★ Gargoyle Buttress
| 14m | Stanage | ||
VS 4c | ★★★ Valkyrie
1
VS 4b
15m
2
4c
23m
Traditional hard Grit VS. Not for the novice or faint-hearted VS leader. FA: Peter Harding & A Bowden Black, 1946 | 38m, 2 | Staffordshire | ||
HVS 5b | ★★★ The Peapod
FA: Joe Brown | 18m | Curbar Edge | ||
VS 4c | ★★ Hell Crack
| 13m | Stanage | ||
VD | ★ Tango Crack
| 14m | Stanage | ||
HVS 5a | ★★★ Valkyrie | 20m, 2 | Froggatt Edge | ||
HS 4b | ★★★ Demo Route | 24m | Sennen Cove | ||
HVS 5b | ★★ Suicide Wall
FA: Peter Harding & Veronica Lee, 1946 | 28m | Peak District Limestone | ||
VS 4c | ★★★ The File
FA: Don Whillans, 1956 | 15m | Higgar Tor | ||
S 4a | ★ Route 2 | 6m | Burbage Valley | ||
D | ★★ High Buttress Arete | 12m | Whaley Bridge Area | ||
E1 5b | ★★★ Long Tall Sally | Burbage Valley | |||
VD | ★ Gamma | 12m | Froggatt Edge | ||
HVS 5a | ★★★ The Sloth
The amazing splitter crack through the roof on creaky flakes. FA: Don Whillans, 1954 | 24m | Staffordshire | ||
VS 5a | ★★ Freda
One of the best of its grade hereabouts. Start just right of ‘The Bad Step’, below a thin crack with an old peg in place at 4m. 14m: Climb the thin crack with difficulty, passing the peg… | 14m | Swanage | ||
S 4a | ★ Raven Gully
A high-moorland classic that features crack-climbing in all of its guises. It is possible to run the upper pitches together. Start on the right side of the flake that sits at the base of the gully.
| 30m, 3 | Hay Tor | ||
E2 5a | ★★ Sundowner | 12m | Froggatt Edge | ||
HS 4b | ★ Slab Recess Direct | 14m | Froggatt Edge | ||
D | ★★ Slab Recess
Start as for Gamma up the large crack, traverse left then up the large flake. | 16m | Froggatt Edge | ||
E2 5b | ★★ Brown's Eliminate | 16m | Froggatt Edge | ||
M | Grotto Slab
| 18m | Stanage | ||
E1 5b | ★★ The Link
| 22m | Stanage | ||
HS 4c | ★ Black Hawk
| 15m | Stanage | ||
HVS 5a | ★ Meringue | 10m | Lawrencefield Quarry | ||
S 4a | ★★ Second Corner
A well-protected pitch. Start at the shallow corner and crack directly above ‘The Bad Step’. 14m: Step in from the right and use twin cracks to gain the corner… | 14m | Swanage | ||
VD | ★★ Right Route
FA: Morley Wood, 1922 | 24m, 2 | Staffordshire | ||
VS 4c | ★★ Hawk's Nest Crack
FA: Joe Brown & Slim Sorrell, 1948 | 12m | Froggatt Edge | ||
S 4c | ★★ Crack and Corner
1
S 4c
12m
2
-
8m
3
4a
15m
FA: Morley Wood, 1922 | 35m, 3 | Staffordshire | ||
VS 4b | ★★ Terrace Crack | 12m | Froggatt Edge | ||
VS 5a | ★★★ Little Brown Jug
1
VS 4b
22m
2
4a
18m
3
5a
24m
Can be climbed as two pitches by linking P1 and P2 together. P1 can be linked into P2 and P3 of 'Doorpost' to create a 3-star "direct" route. FA: P H Biven & B M Biven, 1955 | 64m, 3 | Bosigran | ||
VS 4c | ★★ Crack of Doom
Up the corner crack to the overhang and follow the rightward traverse . Good holds to finish. FA: Arthur Dolphin & Robert Heap. 30/8/41 | 11m | Almscliff | ||
HS 5a | ★★ Tango Buttress
| 14m | Stanage | ||
HVS 5b | ★★ Leaning Buttress Direct
| 16m | Stanage | ||
HS 4b | ★★★ Mutiny Crack
FA: Eric Byrom, 1934 | 10m | Burbage Valley |