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Routes as trad in England

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Showing 1 - 100 out of more than 10,000 routes.

Grade Route Gear style Popularity Crag
E1 5b Flying Buttress Direct

FA: D. Lomas, 1956

FFA: Paul Grey, 1966

Trad 20m Stanage
VD 4a Hollybush Crack

The clean crack in the right facing corner. The lower section is somewhat polished and is the crux while the upper section is a bit more juggy but still interesting. Good gear throughout.

FA: George Bower, 1926

Trad 14m Stanage
HVS 5a Three Pebble Slab Trad 12m Froggatt Edge
HS 4b Christmas Crack

FA: George Bower, 1926

Trad 15m Stanage
HVS 4c Sunset Slab Trad 12m Froggatt Edge
HVS 5a The Right Unconquerable

Starting at the crack in the centre of the unconquerables, head left through the series of under clinging flakes.

Trad 17m Stanage
E1 5b The Left Unconquerable
Trad 17m Stanage
HVS 5a Bond Street Trad 22m Millstone Edge
VD Little Chamonix
Trad 72m, 4 Borrowdale
HVS 5a Tody's Wall

FA: Joe Brown, 1948

Trad 18m Froggatt Edge
HVD 3c Heather Wall

Jam and lay back the obvious crack to the left of the wall

Trad 16m Froggatt Edge
HVS 5b Great Portland Street Trad 21m Millstone Edge
VD Fluted Columns Trad 14m Almscliff
VD Heaven Crack

Layback the flake just left of the descent gully. Tricky move to finish.

Trad 10m Stanage
HS 4c Sunset Crack

FA: Len Chapman & Bob Tomsett, 1948

Trad 12m Froggatt Edge
HVS 5a Great North Road Trad 35m Millstone Edge
S 4b Crack and Corner

Lovely crack climbing up the obvious (and very polished) corner.

Trad 16m Stanage
HS 4a Green Gut Trad 14m Froggatt Edge
HS 4b Manchester Buttress

Classy climbing that tests the rope work.

FA: Maurice Linnel, 1930

Trad 16m Stanage
VS 4c Embankment 2
1 VS 4c 16m
2 4b 14m
Trad 30m, 2 Millstone Edge
HS 4b Bird's Nest Crack

Put up pre 1900. Straight up the crack, move right to grab the strange protruberance and up again. Becoming more and more polished.

FA: Herbert Ingle & Edward Calvert.

Trad 10m Almscliff
VS 4c Hargreave's Original Route

FA: Albert Hargreaves, 1928

Trad 16m Stanage
E1 5b Embankment 3
1 E1 5b 16m
2 5b 14m

FA: Ed Drummond, 1975

Trad 30m, 2 Millstone Edge
VS 4c The Mississippi Buttress Direct

Start in leaning groove, climb to bridge below bulges then follow flake crack which eases off towards the top.

FA: Roy Horseman, 1927

Trad 22m Stanage
VS 4c Heather Wall
Trad 14m Stanage
VS 4c Trapeze Direct

Straightforward climb directly up the crack

Trad 12m Froggatt Edge
VS 4b Inverted V

FA: Cyril Ward, 1922

Trad 22m Stanage
HVS 5a Chequers Buttress Trad 14m Froggatt Edge
HS 4b April Crack

FA: Herbert Hartley, 1928

Trad 15m Stanage
HS 4b Paradise Wall
Trad 14m Stanage
VS 4c Central Trinity
Trad 15m Stanage
S 4a Black Hawk Hell Crack
Trad 14m Stanage
HVS 5a Knights Move

A classic climb.

FA: Gilbert Ellis. 1933.

Trad 16m Burbage Valley
HS 4b Diamond Crack

Jam up the stunning crack - steep strenuous and well protected.

Trad 8m Froggatt Edge
E1 5b Embankment 4 Trad 30m Millstone Edge
HVS 5a Great Western

A 4 star route in the guide. Climb 'Crack of Doom' to the roof, then traverse leftwards to a hard pull into a rest in the niche. Finish either direct or up right via 'The Five Star Finish'. Is generally considered THE best climb on grit, some disagree.

FA: Arthur Dolphin & Robert Heap. 19/09/43.

Trad 15m Almscliff
E2 5c Regent Street Trad 22m Millstone Edge
D 4b Low Man Easy Way Trad 13m Almscliff
HVD 4a Flying Buttress

FA: Fergus Graham, 1922

Trad 24m Stanage
HVS 4c The Mall Trad 22m Millstone Edge
HS 4a Right Hand Trinity

The long crack in the wall is started at a small rightward facing corner then direct up.

Trad 13m Stanage
HVS 5a Queersville
Trad 15m Stanage
VS 4c Via Media
Trad 11m Stanage
HVS 5c Chequers Crack Trad 12m Froggatt Edge
HVS 5a Goliath's Groove

Start in the difficult off-width corner to gain a rest above. Then climb to glory up the corner crack to the top.

Trad 22m Stanage
D Alison Rib

The gentle and beautifully textured granite arete provides an ideal initiation to the more manageable routes at Bosigran. Pitches 1 & 2 are usually combined.

  1. 22m. Climb up the steep right-hand side of the arete. As the angle gradually becomes less steep, shift your position to the left, onto the actual arete, and continue following it until a suitable belay position.

  2. 18m. Continue along the arete, progressing towards a terrace where multiple belay options are available.

  3. 19m. Scale the steep cracks located at the rear of the bay, persevering until you reach the summit.

FA: D G Romanis, 1923

Trad 59m, 3 Bosigran
HVS 5b Congo Corner

FA: Peter Biven, 1954

Trad 24m Stanage
VS 4c High Neb Buttress
Trad 20m Stanage
S 4a North Climb

Climb the wide crack to the left hand end of the slab.

FA: James W Puttrell, Henry Bishop & C Douglas Yeomans, 1906

Trad 12m Froggatt Edge
HS 4a Robin Hood's Right-Hand Buttress Direct

FA: Cyril Ward, 1922

Trad 23m Stanage
S 4a Allen's Slab

Start up Gamma then head right at the diagonal crack along sparse gear, continue to traverse right along the scooped ledge then finish up jugs left of Trapeze Direct

Trad 16m Froggatt Edge
D 3a Mucky Gully

a nice easy ascent following the wall on the right of the gully and about 5m from the top changing to the left following a nice and tight chimney up for the last part.

a strong line and good climbing make this a popular and impressive undertaking. start about 10m right of the point that the approach path begins to drop down towards the main area.

Trad 48m, 2 The Dewerstone
S 4a Black and Tans
1 S 4a 12m
2 3c 18m

A superior variation on Black Velvet. Climb the corner half way up that route, but move out left to a possible belay. Climb the corner above to an exposed nose which is climbed by a series of awkward and poorly protected mantelshelves

FA: A S 'Fred' Pigott, 1922

Trad 30m, 2 Staffordshire
HVD Stew Pot Trad 11m Almscliff
S 4b Pinnacle Flake Climb Trad 12m Almscliff
HS Central Groove

a truly wonderful climb, they don't come much better. the climbing is straightforward but intimidating with good protection placements. start beneath the central corner

Trad 48m, 2 The Dewerstone
S 4b 20-foot Crack Trad 6m Burbage Valley
HVS 5a Avalanche Wall

FA: Joe Brown

Trad 12m Curbar Edge
VD Trapeze

Start as for Trapeze Direct to the bulge then traverse right to the left trending groove. Keep heading right to finish as for Nursery Slab

Trad 14m Froggatt Edge
HS 4b Castle Crack
Trad 18m Stanage
S 4b First Corner

The first of two well-protected, classic corner-lines. A good introduction to the area. Start at the bottomless corner that forms the left hand side of the sheer wall, left of ‘The Bad Step’.

14m: Pull straight into the corner…

Trad 14m Swanage
VD 4b Morpheus Trad 3 Avon Gorge
S 4a Bishop's Route
Trad 25m Stanage
VS 4b Covent Garden Trad 35m Millstone Edge
VS 4c Paradise Arete
Trad 14m Stanage
VD Leaning Buttress Crack

The long groove on the right side of the pillar. Good pro throughout.

Trad 14m Stanage
VS 4b Gargoyle Buttress
Trad 14m Stanage
VS 4c Valkyrie
1 VS 4b 15m
2 4c 23m

Traditional hard Grit VS. Not for the novice or faint-hearted VS leader.

FA: Peter Harding & A Bowden Black, 1946

Trad 38m, 2 Staffordshire
HVS 5b The Peapod

FA: Joe Brown

Trad 18m Curbar Edge
VS 4c Hell Crack
Trad 13m Stanage
VD Tango Crack
Trad 14m Stanage
HVS 5a Valkyrie Trad 20m, 2 Froggatt Edge
HS 4b Demo Route Trad 24m Sennen Cove
HVS 5b Suicide Wall

FA: Peter Harding & Veronica Lee, 1946

Trad 28m Peak District Limestone
VS 4c The File

FA: Don Whillans, 1956

Trad 15m Higgar Tor
S 4a Route 2 Trad 6m Burbage Valley
D High Buttress Arete Trad 12m Whaley Bridge Area
E1 5b Long Tall Sally Trad Burbage Valley
VD Gamma Trad 12m Froggatt Edge
HVS 5a The Sloth

The amazing splitter crack through the roof on creaky flakes.

FA: Don Whillans, 1954

Trad 24m Staffordshire
VS 5a Freda

One of the best of its grade hereabouts. Start just right of ‘The Bad Step’, below a thin crack with an old peg in place at 4m.

14m: Climb the thin crack with difficulty, passing the peg…

Trad 14m Swanage
S 4a Raven Gully

A high-moorland classic that features crack-climbing in all of its guises. It is possible to run the upper pitches together. Start on the right side of the flake that sits at the base of the gully.

  1. 9m. Climb the crack and then the groove above (it is also possible to climb the left face of the groove) to a good ledge.

  2. 9m. Chimney up the steep crack and exit onto a large ledge and belay.

  3. 9m. The easy chimney above to finish. Belay on blocks. © Rockfax

Trad 30m, 3 Hay Tor
E2 5a Sundowner Trad 12m Froggatt Edge
HS 4b Slab Recess Direct Trad 14m Froggatt Edge
D Slab Recess

Start as for Gamma up the large crack, traverse left then up the large flake.

Trad 16m Froggatt Edge
E2 5b Brown's Eliminate Trad 16m Froggatt Edge
M Grotto Slab
Trad 18m Stanage
E1 5b The Link
Trad 22m Stanage
HS 4c Black Hawk
Trad 15m Stanage
HVS 5a Meringue Trad 10m Lawrencefield Quarry
S 4a Second Corner

A well-protected pitch. Start at the shallow corner and crack directly above ‘The Bad Step’.

14m: Step in from the right and use twin cracks to gain the corner…

Trad 14m Swanage
VD Right Route

FA: Morley Wood, 1922

Trad 24m, 2 Staffordshire
VS 4c Hawk's Nest Crack

FA: Joe Brown & Slim Sorrell, 1948

Trad 12m Froggatt Edge
S 4c Crack and Corner
1 S 4c 12m
2 - 8m
3 4a 15m

FA: Morley Wood, 1922

Trad 35m, 3 Staffordshire
VS 4b Terrace Crack Trad 12m Froggatt Edge
VS 5a Little Brown Jug
1 VS 4b 22m
2 4a 18m
3 5a 24m

Can be climbed as two pitches by linking P1 and P2 together.

P1 can be linked into P2 and P3 of 'Doorpost' to create a 3-star "direct" route.

FA: P H Biven & B M Biven, 1955

Trad 64m, 3 Bosigran
VS 4c Crack of Doom

Up the corner crack to the overhang and follow the rightward traverse . Good holds to finish.

FA: Arthur Dolphin & Robert Heap. 30/8/41

Trad 11m Almscliff
HS 5a Tango Buttress
Trad 14m Stanage
HVS 5b Leaning Buttress Direct
Trad 16m Stanage
HS 4b Mutiny Crack

FA: Eric Byrom, 1934

Trad 10m Burbage Valley

Showing 1 - 100 out of more than 10,000 routes.

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