Grade | Route | Gear style | Quality | Climber | Date | |||
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South-West England Dorset Lulworth Stair Hole East Cave | ||||||||
7a | ★★ Horny Lil' Devil - with Ian, Ezra, Jacob | 12m | Sat 13th Aug 2016 | |||||
After seeing a friend narrowly avoid hitting the rocks below the start of this route, I gingerly attempted the first couple of holds with a spotter before falling.
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7a | ★★ Horny Lil' Devil - with Marc B, Tim B | 12m | Sat 30th Sep 2023 | |||||
First DWS experience, got myself boxed and fell off pretty early
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South-West England Dorset Lulworth Stair Hole West Cave | ||||||||
6b E5 | Crazy Notion | Sun 22nd Jul 2018 | ||||||
Second go. Hard to find the hold on the slanted ledge at 3/4 height!
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5c E2 | Truth, Justice and the Raggamuffin Way - with shane4747 | Wed 23rd Jul 2014 | ||||||
Got a biut confused on where to go and downclimbed. Will come back again when fresh and able!
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4c | Cheddar Direct - with shane4747 | Wed 23rd Jul 2014 | ||||||
Nice finish to the day
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HVS 5a | ★★ The Maypole | ★★★ Classic | Sat 20th Jul 2013 | |||||
Awesome fun, got wet shoes though, cut 3 laps
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HVS 5a | ★★ The Maypole - with Ezra, Jacob | ★ Good | Sat 13th Aug 2016 | |||||
First outdoor climb and first DWS! Traverse felt quite treacherous with jagged rock below. Fell at the beginning of the climb inside the cave after getting pumped.
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5a | ★★ The Maypole - with shane4747 | Thu 17th Jul 2014 | ||||||
Didn't get it the first time, went too high. Got it at low tide on the lower section. Does it go high too?
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6a | The Laws Traverse | Wed 23rd Jul 2014 | ||||||
Loved this route, got it clean and went up the arete, then fell in the cave on the way back.
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6a E1 | The Laws Traverse - with shane4747 | Thu 17th Jul 2014 | ||||||
The tide was too low to give it a proper go
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South-West England Dorset Lulworth Dungy Head | ||||||||
6b | ★ Jugmaster Funk Meets M.C. Lane | ★ Good | Sun 7th Apr 2019 | |||||
Wet from seeping, nice climbing though!
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6b | The Debt Collector | Average | Sun 7th Apr 2019 | |||||
Funky moves, positive but weird hands
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South-West England Dorset Swanage Subluminal | ||||||||
4a S 4a | ★★★ Avernus | ★★★ Classic | 2000 | |||||
best situation for a severe anywhere
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S 4a | ★★★ Avernus | ★★★ Classic | Sun 12th May 2024 | |||||
Felt committing with the damp holds. But was very enjoyable!! Glad I lead it
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VD | Pedestal Chimney | 16m | Wed 2nd Sep 2020 | |||||
A ladder. beginners
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D | Pedestal Crack | 10m | Average | Thu 10th Mar 2011 | ||||
Just a warm up climb
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D | Pedestal Crack | 10m | Wed 2nd Sep 2020 | |||||
super easy/a ladder, good for a v. beginner
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HVS 5a | Freda Direct - with Alex | Sat 13th May 2023 | ||||||
HVS variation. Fell in the middle, then finished clean.
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VS 5a | ★★ Freda | 14m | Wed 2nd Sep 2020 | |||||
Comfortable top rope, one to come back to
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5a | ★★ Freda - with EddInaBox | 14m | Tue 21st May 2013 | |||||
Favorite climb of the day, sustained climbing all the way up, great to get that pumped & accomplished feeling!
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VS 5a | ★★ Freda - with Alex | 14m | Sat 13th May 2023 | |||||
VS variation. Slipped at the opening moves.
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VS 5a | ★★ Freda - with leif | 14m | Sat 26th Aug 2023 | |||||
Lead - chockney (cattle trough) v diff
Lead - inspiration (cattle trough) s
Second - fallen block climb v diff
Second - curving crack (subliminal) S
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S 4a S 4a | ★★ Second Corner | 14m | Wed 2nd Sep 2020 | |||||
Nice start, exposed awkward crack at the top
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S 4a | ★★ Second Corner - with Alex | 14m | Sat 13th May 2023 | |||||
Actually felt easier than double chock stone
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S 4b S 4b | ★ First Corner | 14m | Mon 31st Aug 2020 | |||||
Comfort start, runout awkward crack to finish, hard gear placement at the top
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S 4b | ★ First Corner | 14m | Sat 27th May 2023 | |||||
Definitely harder than second corner. Slippery up high.
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S 4b | ★ First Corner | 14m | Don't Bother | Sat 29th Jul 2023 | ||||
moist and polished + loose block at the top
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S 4a | ★ Birds Nest | Sat 27th May 2023 | ||||||
Looked improbable for the grade, but everything is there when you need it. Protection, holds, you name it, you can find it.
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D | double chockstone | 14m | Average | Fri 19th Apr 2013 | ||||
good route though starting to get a bit polished
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HVD | Double Chockstone - with Alex | 14m | Sat 13th May 2023 | |||||
Loved the climb, but it felt insecure in the chimney.
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VS 4c VS 4c | ★ Botany Bay | Average | Mon 31st Aug 2020 | |||||
run out, thin crack climb, not one to start the day on
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VS 4b VS 4b | Slip Road | Tue 1st Sep 2020 | ||||||
Pumpy, but the hand holds are there, a couple of big exposed moves. Def a VS. fav Climb at Swange
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S S 4a | ★ Bypass | 10m | ★ Good | Fri 12th Oct 2012 | ||||
Nice warm up
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S 4a | ★ Bypass | 10m | Sat 3rd Jun 2023 | |||||
Variation on the route climbed a little harder.
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HS 4b HS 4b | ★ Station Road | 15m | ★★ Very Good | Tue 1st Sep 2020 | ||||
nice warm up, probably an S
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HS 4b | ★ Station Road | 15m | ★ Good | Sun 5th Mar 2023 | ||||
Got confused at the routes; thought we were on an E1, and thought it was remarkably easy.
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D | ★ High Street - with EddInaBox | 10m | Tue 21st May 2013 | |||||
First lead-climb on first outdoor climb, nice and easy climb, brilliant for learning how to lead.
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E1 5c | ★★ Stroof | ★★ Very Good | Sun 12th May 2024 | |||||
Cool one! Boulder boy
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4a | ★★ Gangway - with EddInaBox | 15m | Tue 21st May 2013 | |||||
First ever outdoor climb. Brilliant warm-up to get started.
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Baboon - with Callum Clark | Sun 25th Aug 2019 | |||||||
Had 1 attempt at the awkward bulge and decided I was not in the mood
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HS 4b | Why not | 15m | Sat 1st Jul 2023 | |||||
Actually led this the other day, thinking I was on suspension
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South-West England Dorset Swanage Boulder Ruckle | ||||||||
E3 E3 5b | ★★★ Ocean Boulevard | 40m | ★★★ Classic | Mon 8th Jul 2019 | ||||
1st shot on lead.
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E2 5b E2 5b | ★★★ Ximenes - with Callum | 38m | ★★★ Classic | Sat 6th Jul 2019 | ||||
A brilliant route and what a fight on P1.
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E5 6a | ★★★ Wall of the Worlds - with Callum | 40m | ★★★ Classic | Mon 8th Jul 2019 | ||||
Rested twice to get the gear out. some tricky moves for tech 6a I thought - sustained.
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HVS 4c | ★★★ Finale Groove | 42m | ★★★ Classic | Sun 14th Jun 2020 | ||||
A beautiful line. Great movement most of the way, but be wary of the topout.
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4c HVS 4c | ★★★ Finale Groove | 42m | Thu 26th Aug 2021 | |||||
What a stunning climb, wild and improbable – couldn’t stop grinning from the niche up. (With the polished holds sweating a bit in the heat, I’d say not an easy HVS, and a sustained 5a at least? Felt like a French 6b.)
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E1 5b E1 5b | ★★ Elysium | 37m | ★★★ Classic | Sun 14th Jun 2020 | ||||
Came back for the tick after falling at the peg first go. A nice route of varying style.
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HVS 5a | ★ Jo - with Callum | 34m | ★ Good | Fri 5th Jul 2019 | ||||
Snapped a hold seconding 1st pitch. A typical welcome to Swanage.
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South-West England Dorset Swanage Cattle Troughs | ||||||||
5a | ★ Bunny's Wall (Bunney's Wall) - with clipskipper | Sat 25th May 2013 | ||||||
Nice finish to the day =]
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VD | ★★ The Chimney | 15m | ★★ Very Good | Sun 1st Mar 2009 | ||||
Vdiff 15m
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VD | ★★ The Chimney | 15m | Sat 10th Jun 2023 | |||||
Took the direct finish (severe)
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VD | ★ Chockney | ★★ Very Good | Sun 1st Mar 2009 | |||||
Vdiff 4 a 12m
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South-West England Dorset Swanage Promenade Tensile Groove Test Area | ||||||||
6a | ★ The Flail Trail | 11m | ★ Good | Sun 21st Jul 2013 | ||||
Warm up route, good holds. Quite happy to warm up on the easiest route here as the area is a little spooky with the waves crashing off the back of the ledge behind you. Would not want to be anywhere near this place in heavier seas!
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South-West England Dorset Swanage Promenade Tesselations Area | ||||||||
VS A1 |
★★★ Benny
- with
AidanOost
1
A1
lead by
Malcolm Venter
2
VS 4b
lead by
Malcolm Venter
3
VS 4b
lead by
Malcolm Venter
| ★★★ Mega Classic | Sat 28th May 2016 | |||||
And now for something completely different.
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6b | ★ Chicago Peace | ★ Good | Sun 21st Jul 2013 | |||||
Fun climbing, the odd dodgy block though
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6c | ★★ Gangster Lean | 26m | ★★ Very Good | Sun 21st Jul 2013 | ||||
Bit of a false start on the tough campus/mantle move. Balancy moves on fairly good holds. A very scary runout at halfway & stringly tat for the last couple pieces of pro. If I went back to this area I would 100% take a helmet.
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South-West England Dorset Swanage Fisherman's Ledge Conger Area | ||||||||
6a+ | ★★★ The Conger | 20m | ★★★ Classic | Sun 23rd Jul 2006 | ||||
Absolutely fantastic route!
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6a+ | ★★★ The Conger - with Ian, Ezra, Jacob, Sam | 20m | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sun 14th Aug 2016 | ||||
Jumped off while trying to do the second bridge as my head was getting stuck on the roof.
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★★ Troubled Waters | 10m | ★★ Very Good | Mon 1st Jul 2002 | |||||
Great deep water solo.
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5a 5c | ★★ Troubled Waters | 10m | ★ Good | Wed 4th Aug 2004 | ||||
solo
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HVS 5a | ★★ Troubled Waters - with Ian, Jacob, Ezra | 10m | ★★ Very Good | Sun 14th Aug 2016 | ||||
First successful outdoor climb and DWS! Climbed twice after finishing wrong by escaping to the right the first time. Moved up the face very gingerly. Took quite a bit of time to find the obscured foothold by my knees before the jugs start. A great climb. Gives you better holds the steeper and higher it gets.
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South-West England Dorset Swanage Fisherman's Ledge The Funky Wall | ||||||||
HVS 5a | ★ The Rise and Dear Demise of the Funky Nomadic Tribes - with Ian, Ezra, Jacob | 15m | Sun 14th Aug 2016 | |||||
After attempting the traverse across to get to Fathoms and taking a swim, took this route up on belay. Lots of confusion trying work out where the route was, but finally made it up after lots of falling and dangling.
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South-West England Dorset Swanage Blackers Hole | ||||||||
E2 5c | ★★ Cosa Nostra | ★★ Very Good | Mon 11th May 2020 | |||||
I put this up sometime in 1988. Loose finish but superb position, not technically hard for the grade.
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South-West England Dorset Swanage Guillemot Ledge | ||||||||
HVS 5b HVS 5b | ★★ Strapiombo - with Jan | 30m | ★★ Very Good | Sun 17th Dec 2017 | ||||
Climbed soaking wet. Was meaning to turn off onto tensor 2 but got carried away! Struggled to work out the roof crux in the wet, until my arms failed and I lowered off.
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HVS 5b | ★★ Strapiombo - with Jan | 30m | ★★ Very Good | Sun 17th Dec 2017 | ||||
Climbed in rain with heavy pack. Couldn't figure out the roof crux move and after getting pumped out of my mind had to weight the rope to move out onto the face. Negotiating the chimney with a bag on was interesting!
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VS 5a VS 5a | ★ Tensor 2 | ★ Good | Sat 13th Jul 2019 | |||||
Lovely warmup, best as one pitch
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HVS 5a E1 5a | ★★ The Spook | 35m | ★★ Very Good | Sat 13th Jul 2019 | ||||
Led the second pitch, wish i led the first.
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5a E1 5a | ★★ The Spook | 35m | Wed 25th Aug 2021 | |||||
First E1 – but felt more like HVS 5a/4c. A mini-epic, partner fell out of the beginning of the upper crack on p1, left hanging under the overhang unable to reach it. P1 fun, p2 a one-move pony – Rockfax says “bold” twice in the description of p2, which is twice too many.
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E1 E1 5b | ★★ Saphire | ★★★ Classic | Sat 13th Jul 2019 | |||||
Combined into one. The sandy traverse was a bit hair raising, but a nice climb all round.
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South-West England Dorset Swanage Dancing Ledge Main Quarry | ||||||||
5+ | The War of the Wardens | 10m | Mon 8th Apr 2019 | |||||
Very polished!
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6b+ | ★★ Rambling Moses Weetabix and the Secona Park Seven | 15m | ★★ Very Good | Fri 1st Mar 2002 | ||||
great wall work
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6b+ | ★★ Rambling Moses Weetabix and the Secona Park Seven | 15m | Mon 8th Apr 2019 | |||||
Really beautiful climbing, reachy move to slot was pumpy.
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6b+ | ★★ Rambling Moses Weetabix and the Secona Park Seven | 15m | ★★ Very Good | Sat 27th Aug 2022 | ||||
Really enjoyed this climb but had to rest at the middle crux unfortunately. Will be back to send this another time! Brilliant route and really wicked moved throughout. Would recommend!
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6c | ★★ Daylight Robbery | ★ Good | Mon 1st Jul 2002 | |||||
good, varied and interesting climbing up a groove
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6c+ | ★★ Idiot Joy Showland | ★★ Very Good | Thu 26th Apr 2007 | |||||
surprisingly, no, amazingly good climbing for Dancing Ledge. Positively enjoyable!
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7a | ★★★ Sugar Ray | 10m | ★★★ Classic | Sat 20th Jul 2013 | ||||
2 shots, stuck the crux on second shot, but just couldn't stick the transition moves - I don't know how you would get the 4th draw on in an onsight attempt, the crux clip would be sooo marginal. Realistically probably hard even at 7a+, could even be a 7b? Magnificent for such a short route
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6b+ | ★★ Shinhead Clash | 15m | ★★ Very Good | Thu 1st Aug 2002 | ||||
Great steep fun, good powerful redpoint
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6b+ | ★★ Shinhead Clash | 15m | ★ Good | Sat 20th Jul 2013 | ||||
Brutal little "warmup" route, super pumpy heelhook start, a little too slimey for the onsight
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6c+ 7a | ★★★ Haunted by a Million Screams | ★★★ Classic | Sun 19th Apr 2009 | |||||
steep jug-fest. Wicked
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7a | ★★★ Haunted by a Million Screams | Sun 25th May 2014 | ||||||
Awesome climb!
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7a Easy | ★★★ Haunted by a Million Screams — 4 attempts | ★★★ Classic | Sun 1st Oct 2023 | |||||
Ultra polished so went for the send at night. Classic route.
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7b 7a+ | ★★ Prophets of Rage | ★ Good | Sun 19th Apr 2009 | |||||
Beasty motherfucker!! Some classy moves in between the bicep-tearing hardness. Second go, still had to sstop and stuff chalk balls in seeping pockets. Touch and go...
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6c | ★ Slap Bang on a Hang | Average | Sun 19th Apr 2009 | |||||
One bolt dyno fun. Shame I missed it the first go. spacker
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6c | ★ Slap Bang on a Hang | Thu 24th Sep 2020 | ||||||
Did this ages ago. One move wonder
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6c | ★ Slap Bang on a Hang - with pymn nice but dim | Sun 25th May 2014 | ||||||
Will be back for this! Didnt have the reach to go direct, had to layback off a slopey thing to reach the ledge, had a good 20 attempts at it!
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6c | ★ Slap Bang on a Hang | ★★ Very Good | Sat 27th Aug 2022 | |||||
Loved it. Sent it properly today. Took me a few goes at the dyno but managed it eventually and made a nice clean send, and one more for good measure.
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7a+ | ★ Double or Quits | Sat 6th Apr 2024 | ||||||
Could not do the crux between the 4th & 5th bolt. Maybe in better connies
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7a | ★★ Stay balanced | ★★ Very Good | Sun 7th Apr 2024 | |||||
Took a couple times. Nice route though
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5b+ 6a | Borra Ring | Don't Bother | Wed 23rd Jul 2014 | |||||
Very polished
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6a | Borra Ring | Sun 25th May 2014 | ||||||
More like a 6a!
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6a 6a+ | Ideal World | Average | Thu 24th Jul 2014 | |||||
Use the piton, helps the head!
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5+ 6a | Transparent Birthday Suit | Average | Sun 19th Apr 2009 | |||||
nice, until the terrifying deck-out last move. Jesus
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6c+ 6c | ★★ Idiot Joy Showland | ★★ Very Good | Sun 19th Apr 2009 | |||||
Great climbing, after the frickin hard grovelling 'V4' rockover to start... Absolutely crushed it.
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6c | ★★ Idiot Joy Showland | Sat 23rd Jul 2022 | ||||||
Found this harder than I was expecting but enjoyed the route. Will give it a better go next time now I know where the holds are
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6b+ | ★★ Skinhead Clash | ★ Good | Wed 23rd Jul 2014 | |||||
The bolts are a little bit far from each other but the holds are good.
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7a | ★★ A Brutal Equation | ★★ Very Good | Sun 19th Apr 2009 | |||||
Big steep jug haul. Got to within reach of the chains onsight before spooging off. Easy second go
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South-West England Dorset Swanage Dancing Ledge | ||||||||
7b+ | ★★ A Short Story About Power | ★★ Very Good | Sat 28th Apr 2007 | |||||
5 years, 5 attempts, FINALLY a day of good tide conditions - CRUSHED IT!!!
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6b+ | ★ Born Again | 18m | Average | Fri 1st Mar 2002 | ||||
feels slippery
|
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South-West England Dorset Swanage Hedbury Quarry | ||||||||
5+ | New Age, New Style - with Alex, Joe | 12m, 6 | Sun 5th Feb 2023 | |||||
Fell once at the crux.
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6b+ | ★★ Don's Long Gone | 9m, 3 | ★★ Very Good | Wed 1st May 2002 | ||||
good butch fun through the roof crack
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