Grade | Route | Gear style | Quality | Climber | Date | |||
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Wye Valley Huntsham Crags Sliced Slug Boulder | ||||||||
6C+ | ★★★ Golden Bicep | 5m | Sat 14th May 2022 | |||||
Wye Valley Huntsham Crags Bread Pudding Boulder | ||||||||
6A | ★★ Bowl Rim | 3m | ★★ Very Good | Tue 17th May 2022 | ||||
6A ~6A+ | ★★ Bowl Rim | 3m | ★★ Very Good | Thu 2nd Jun 2022 | ||||
7B | ★★★ Barrabrith | ★★★ Classic | Sat 14th May 2022 | |||||
7A+ | ★★ The Porthole | 4m | Sat 14th May 2022 | |||||
Wye Valley Ban-y-Gor | ||||||||
6b | FA ★★ On the Nose | ★★ Very Good | Fri 27th Jul 2007 | |||||
Fun stuff. Clip the bolt out left on SMD then campus back out the big finger rail and double heel-hook and slap your way direct up the hanging prow
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Wye Valley Ban-y-Gor The Main Cliff - Cemetary Sector | ||||||||
7a+ | ★★ The Beauty Of It All | Sun 21st Jul 2013 | ||||||
Stupid try without knowing the route a lot over our level. You can find a mallion half the way up.
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6b 7a | ★★★ Pet Cemetary | 25m | ★★★ Classic | Mon 28th May 2007 | ||||
Wye Valley Ban-y-Gor The Main Cliff - Apedex Sector | ||||||||
5c 6b+ | ★ Slow Boat to Chepstow | 25m | ★ Good | Mon 28th May 2007 | ||||
5b 6a | ★ Muddy Waters | 25m | ★ Good | Mon 28th May 2007 | ||||
6a | ★ Muddy Waters | 25m | Mon 27th May 2013 | |||||
6b 7b | ★★ In Apedex | 25m | ★ Good | Mon 28th May 2007 | ||||
Wye Valley Ban-y-Gor The Main Cliff - Head Sector | ||||||||
5c 6b+ | ★★ Heady Days | 25m | ★ Good | Mon 28th May 2007 | ||||
Wye Valley Ban-y-Gor The Ladder Gully Area - First Ladder Buttress | ||||||||
4a | Such A Big Cactus! | 8m | Fri 7th Jul 2017 | |||||
Warming up
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4a | Such A Big Cactus! | 8m | Sun 21st Jul 2013 | |||||
5c | ★ The Fat Controller | 10m | Fri 7th Jul 2017 | |||||
5c | ★ The Fat Controller | 10m | Sun 21st Jul 2013 | |||||
Wye Valley Ban-y-Gor Under the Walkway | ||||||||
5b | Too Short | Sat 8th Jul 2017 | ||||||
Went up to clean it.
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Wye Valley Ban-y-Gor Bongo Buttress | ||||||||
5c | ★ Pokemon GO | 11m | ★ Good | Sun 17th Jul 2022 | ||||
6a+ | ★ Nation of shopkeepers | 12m | ★ Good | Sun 17th Jul 2022 | ||||
nails for 6a+...or just standard ban-y-gor grading!
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Wye Valley Ban-y-Gor Twin Overhanging Bays | ||||||||
6b | ★ Polarization | Wed 23rd Aug 2023 | ||||||
6b+ | ★ Alienation | Wed 23rd Aug 2023 | ||||||
6b+ | ★ Gordonzola | 11m | ★ Good | Sat 28th May 2022 | ||||
shame the good climbing doesn't last long...
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6b+ | ★ Gordonzola | 11m | Wed 23rd Aug 2023 | |||||
6b | ★★ Josie Swoonpence | 11m | ★ Good | Sat 28th May 2022 | ||||
6b | ★★ Josie Swoonpence | 11m | ★★ Very Good | Wed 6th Oct 2021 | ||||
6a | In the dead of the night | 13m | Sat 28th May 2022 | |||||
6a | In the dead of the night | 13m | Wed 23rd Aug 2023 | |||||
6a | ★★ Ugoloo | 13m | Sat 28th May 2022 | |||||
6a | ★★ Ugoloo | 13m | ★★ Very Good | Wed 6th Oct 2021 | ||||
6b+ | ★★★ Avidya | 12m | ★★★ Classic | Sat 28th May 2022 | ||||
felt nails for 6b+...2nd try
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6b+ | ★★★ Avidya — 3 attempts | 12m | ★★★ Classic | Sun 24th Jul 2022 | ||||
Really fits the description "tough cookie", what a sandbag... hardest 6b+ of my life. 1st 2 bolts are probably a V3+/V4 continuous boulder problem, took a while to unlock the sequence. All in all I'd say this is at least 6c. Really satisfied with the send.
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6c | ★★ The Good Friday Agreement | 13m | Sun 10th Jul 2022 | |||||
great route - 2nd try
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Wye Valley Ban-y-Gor The White Slab | ||||||||
6b | ★ Autumnal Dark | Sun 24th Jul 2022 | ||||||
6a+ | ★★ The royal thanks II | 10m | Sun 10th Jul 2022 | |||||
6a+ | ★★ The royal thanks II | 10m | ★★ Very Good | Wed 6th Oct 2021 | ||||
6a+ | ★★ The royal thanks II | 10m | Sun 24th Jul 2022 | |||||
Best route in the white slab in my opinion
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5c | The royal thanks I | 10m | Sun 10th Jul 2022 | |||||
5c | The royal thanks I | 10m | Sun 24th Jul 2022 | |||||
5c | The royal thanks I (The Royal Thanks (1)) - with rice36raw | 10m | Sat 16th Jul 2022 | |||||
6a | ★ Tinaderm | Sun 24th Jul 2022 | ||||||
Not sure if did the direct line 6b or a hibrid. The step up on the bad foot without going to the jugs on the right felt more than 6a.
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6a+ | ★ A Midsummer Night's Garden (1) - with rice36raw | Sat 16th Jul 2022 | ||||||
5a | Full Tidenham Breakfast - with rice36raw | Sat 16th Jul 2022 | ||||||
4c | ★ Dabbawallah - with rice36raw | Sat 16th Jul 2022 | ||||||
Wye Valley Ban-y-Gor Bronto Buttress | ||||||||
5b | ★★ Darkside | 14m | ★★ Very Good | Sat 28th May 2022 | ||||
5b | ★★ Darkside | 14m | Sun 18th Sep 2016 | |||||
Led it for a client.
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5b | ★★ Darkside | 14m | Sun 30th Jun 2013 | |||||
Amazing views at the top.
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5b | ★★ Darkside | 14m | Sat 8th Jul 2017 | |||||
Climbed it once more... As good as usual and now with an extra bolt at the top, not sure what for.
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5b | ★★ Darkside - with Russell Jackson | 14m | Wed 1st Jul 2015 | |||||
Lead it again for some friends. Amazing route... 3 starts.
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Wye Valley Ban-y-Gor Glass Gully | ||||||||
4b | Double The Fun | 16m | Sun 30th Jun 2013 | |||||
I did but starting in Amuse Bouche.
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5a | Amuse Bouche | 7m | Sun 30th Jun 2013 | |||||
I guessed which route it is as there are three routes that mention Glass Gully but Glass Gully is not registered.
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6a | You're Having A Laugh? | 7m | Sun 18th Sep 2016 | |||||
6a | Laughability | 7m | Sun 18th Sep 2016 | |||||
Wye Valley Ban-y-Gor Mandela Sector | ||||||||
4 | That Historic Reach - with Russell Jackson | Wed 28th Feb 2024 | ||||||
Lovely route, always good fun.
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4 | That Historic Reach | Sun 21st Jul 2013 | ||||||
4 | That Historic Reach | Sun 30th Jun 2013 | ||||||
Good fun but the tree part is tough.
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6b | ★ Lotus Wing | ★ Good | Fri 27th Jul 2007 | |||||
Fun stuff. A bit go-ey at the top.
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6b |
★ Lotus Wing
1
| ★ Good | Sun 10th Jul 2022 | |||||
2nd try...confusing routefinding but great climbing once you know the way!
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6b+ | ★★ Sperm Whales | ★★ Very Good | Thu 4th Jul 2019 | |||||
Tricky little climb makes you think, worth a go.
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7b | ★★★ Nelson Mandela | ★★★ Classic | Thu 4th Jul 2019 | |||||
Fantastic crux sequence takes some finding. The real climbing might be over quicker than you want, but it packs a punch in those meters. My first 7b.
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6c | ★★ East of Sweden | ★★ Very Good | Fri 27th Jul 2007 | |||||
How bizarre. Stand underneat and you SWEAR it's a slab, then wonder why you get so pumped, and figure out it actually overhangs. Cool climbing.
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6c ~6c | ★★ Duhkha | 12m | Wed 23rd Aug 2023 | |||||
UKC states grade 6c
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6c | ★★ Duhkha | 12m | Sun 30th Jun 2013 | |||||
6c ~6c | ★★ Duhkha | 12m | ★★ Very Good | Sun 14th Apr 2024 | ||||
second try, given 6c in the guidebook which I think is fair. very thoughtful crux, rest is pretty chill
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5+ | Morning Winpenny | 12m | ★ Good | Wed 1st Aug 2007 | ||||
Thought I couldn't do it but then got the onsite.
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5+ | Morning Winpenny | 12m | Crap | Fri 27th Jul 2007 | ||||
The only thing that makes this interesting is that every hold might snap off.
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5+ | Morning Winpenny | 12m | Sun 17th Jul 2022 | |||||
5+ | Morning Winpenny (Morning Wimpenny) - with rice36raw | 12m | Sat 16th Jul 2022 | |||||
5+ | Morning Wimpenny | 12m | Sun 30th Jun 2013 | |||||
5+ | Morning Wimpenny - with Russell Jackson | 12m | Sun 24th Mar 2019 | |||||
The more I do it the more I like it.
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5+ | Morning Wimpenny - with Russell Jackson | 12m | Wed 1st Jul 2015 | |||||
Awkward route, especially at the end.
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5a | Day Break - with Russell Jackson | Wed 1st Jul 2015 | ||||||
Easy start, awkward end. Definitively not a 4, not even 4+ more like a 5.
WARNING the first bolt is very very high. All bolts are rusty and there is only one rusty abseil point (bolt with mallion).
I would recommend not to climb this route. The route itself is not that bad so it would be great to rebolt it and to put a proper abseil station with two bolts with rings. |
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6b ~6b+ | Slug Control | Wed 23rd Aug 2023 | ||||||
UKC states grade 6b+
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6b ~6b+ | Doyouthinkhesawus | Wed 23rd Aug 2023 | ||||||
UKC states grade 6b+
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VS 4c HS 4b | Squelch | Sun 17th Jul 2022 | ||||||
Wye Valley Ban-y-Gor Nine Lives | ||||||||
5c | The Chubby Brown Syndrome - with Eva, Russell Jackson | Sun 24th Mar 2019 | ||||||
A poor route poorly bolted. Best to ignore except you like smearing, dynamic moves and a combination of both... In a 5+
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5c | The Chubby Brown Syndrome | Tue 14th Aug 2018 | ||||||
Climbing on trainers as a warm up... No ideal as you have to smear. Shitty route.
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6b+ | Discharge | Tue 14th Aug 2018 | ||||||
Not an easy one to onsight as it is not quite obvious. Sent it in second attempt. Awkward route.
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6b+ | Discharge - with Russell Jackson, Eva | Sun 24th Mar 2019 | ||||||
It felt harder with the cold.
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5c | ★ The Blessing | Tue 14th Aug 2018 | ||||||
The route should go more to the left to make it more interesting or to the right to make it easier... There in the middle it is a bit of a hesitation.
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Wye Valley Ban-y-Gor The Mushroom Walls | ||||||||
4a | The Smiling Assassin Mr Bo | 10m | Thu 4th Nov 2021 | |||||
Roped solo.
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6b | ★ Slow Macabre Dance | Average | Fri 27th Jul 2007 | |||||
ok
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6b ~6a+ | ★ Slow Macabre Dance | ★★ Very Good | Sun 14th Apr 2024 | |||||
6a+ if you use the big ledge on the left after coming round the arete, v cool for the grade
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6a+ | ★ Little Stiff'ner | ★ Good | Fri 27th Jul 2007 | |||||
tasty
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6b 6a+ | ★ Little Stiff'ner | ★★ Very Good | Sat 14th May 2022 | |||||
6b 6a+ | ★ Little Stiff'ner | ★ Good | Sat 28th May 2022 | |||||
Wye Valley Tintern Quarry Upper Red Dust Wall | ||||||||
6b | Ammonite - with Octavian Rotariu | 21m | Sun 10th Jul 2016 | |||||
6a | ★ Pocketful of Kryptonite - with Anne Stijne | Sun 17th Jul 2016 | ||||||
6a | ★ Pocketful of Kryptonite - with Octavian Rotariu | Sun 10th Jul 2016 | ||||||
Wye Valley Tintern Quarry Entry Wall | ||||||||
5c | Star Ship Troopers - with Octavian Rotariu | Sun 10th Jul 2016 | ||||||
6c | ★★ Dispossessed - with Anne Stijne | 18m | Sun 17th Jul 2016 | |||||
6c | ★★ Dispossessed - with Anne Stijne | 18m | Sun 17th Jul 2016 | |||||
6c | ★★ Dispossessed - with Octavian Rotariu | 18m | Sun 10th Jul 2016 | |||||
6a+ | ★ The Undkindest Cut of All (The Unkindest Cut of All) - with Anne Stijne | 20m | Sun 17th Jul 2016 | |||||
6a+ | ★ The Undkindest Cut of All (The Unkindest Cut Of All) - with Octavian Rotariu | 20m | Sun 10th Jul 2016 | |||||
6b | Burning Embers - with Anne Stijne | 18m | Sun 17th Jul 2016 | |||||
6b | Burning Embers - with Octavian Rotariu | 18m | Sun 10th Jul 2016 | |||||
5c | Bigfoot - with Anne Stijne | 13m | Sun 17th Jul 2016 | |||||
Wye Valley Black Cliff Quarry | ||||||||
F5 | Back to Work | Sun 21st Sep 1997 | ||||||
Wye Valley Black Cliff Quarry Castle Wall | ||||||||
F4 | ★ Stolen Kisses (Stolen Kisses (1)) - with jon_gill1 | Fri 11th Jun 2021 |