Grade | Route | Gear style | Quality | Climber | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
Sat 18th May 2024 - Biblins Cave | |||||||
7A+ | ★★ Pop to the Bulge | ★★ Very Good | |||||
Really fun link up with cool undercut moves
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Mon 6th May 2024 - Biblins Cave | |||||||
7B | ★★ School of Burl | ★★ Very Good | |||||
Psyched to get this pretty quickly after figuring out the beginning - scary match at the end!!
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Sun 14th Apr 2024 - Ban-y-Gor | |||||||
The Mushroom Walls | |||||||
6b ~6a+ | ★ Slow Macabre Dance | ★★ Very Good | |||||
6a+ if you use the big ledge on the left after coming round the arete, v cool for the grade
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Sun 14th Apr 2024 - Ban-y-Gor | |||||||
Mandela Sector | |||||||
6c ~6c | ★★ Duhkha | 12m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
second try, given 6c in the guidebook which I think is fair. very thoughtful crux, rest is pretty chill
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Sun 14th Apr 2024 - Wyndcliff Quarry | |||||||
Upper Cliff | |||||||
5c ~6a | Housequake - with Ben Jancovich | ||||||
In the guide book it is a 6a
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Sun 24th Dec 2023 - Wintour's Leap | |||||||
6a ~6a+ | ★★ Ankarana | 12m, 5 | ★ Good | ||||
Good line.
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6b ~6b+ | ★ Much Zebu Crudness | 12m | |||||
Unless holds have broken off for the crux move, it's pretty unfeasible for the grade. Definitely have done easier 6B+'s than this 6B.
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6a+ Hard | ★★★ Still Nice and Still Sleazy | 32m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Excellent line, but quite strange with the ten spaced bolts below, then widely spaced throughout the cruxes. Nonetheless, a good line.
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Sun 17th Dec 2023 - Wintour's Leap | |||||||
M | ★★ Corner Buttress Route 3 | 85m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Great solo! Managed to climb the whole route in about twenty minutes! One or two sections in there that was a bit nerving, but lots of ledges in-between technical sections!
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S 4a |
★ Central Rib Route 1
1
S 4a
24m
2
S 4a
12m
3
S
12m
4
S 4a
15m
| 63m | |||||
Cheeky rest day lap to get some more trad multipitch in before Riglos.
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Sat 16th Dec 2023 - Wyndcliff Quarry | |||||||
Upper Cliff | |||||||
6b ~6b+ | ★ Rock hard in a funky place | 4 | |||||
Tough for the grade
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Sat 9th Dec 2023 - Wyndcliff Quarry | |||||||
Lower Cliff | |||||||
6c | ★★ Finishing Touch Direct Start | ★★ Very Good | |||||
V4 start into 6B. Fun route.
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Sat 9th Dec 2023 - Wyndcliff Quarry | |||||||
Upper Cliff | |||||||
6a+ | ★ Chepstow Killer Appliances | 10m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Wet layback crack
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6b+ | ★★ Shin Gi Tai | 15m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Foot slipped on the last move 😂
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5a | Stranded No More | 10m | |||||
Wet day warmup
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Sat 11th Nov 2023 - Wintour's Leap | |||||||
6b+ | Thingfrith — 2 attempts | ||||||
second try
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6a+ | The last kingdom | Average | |||||
bit shit and loose on the first pitch, and more compact but average climbing on the second
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Sun 5th Nov 2023 - Wyndcliff Quarry | |||||||
Lower Cliff | |||||||
7b | ★★ Timmy’s Poorly Hand | 10m, 2 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Tough V5 boulder problem to a rest, then stacks into another V4 problem. Beautiful line.
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6a+ | ★ One Tooth Short of a Smile | 10m, 6 | ★ Good | ||||
Beautiful movement through crux.
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6c+ ~6b+ | ★ Empire and Revolution | 12m, 3 | ★ Good | ||||
A bit contrived, easy to make the climb softer.
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Sun 8th Oct 2023 - Wyndcliff Quarry | |||||||
Lower Cliff | |||||||
6a | Same Old Story | 10m, 5 | Average | ||||
Polished. Broken hold at the start.
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Sun 27th Aug 2023 - Wyndcliff Quarry | |||||||
Upper Cliff | |||||||
7a | ★★ Wilkinson's Sword — 3 attempts | ★ Good | |||||
Third try - good, techy arete climbing
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Wed 23rd Aug 2023 - Ban-y-Gor | |||||||
Mandela Sector | |||||||
6c ~6c | ★★ Duhkha | 12m | |||||
UKC states grade 6c
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6b ~6b+ | Slug Control | ||||||
UKC states grade 6b+
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6b ~6b+ | Doyouthinkhesawus | ||||||
UKC states grade 6b+
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Sat 19th Aug 2023 - Biblins Cave | |||||||
6C | ★★ Surfing the Wave | ★★ Very Good | |||||
Good line, may be slightly soft for the grade.
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7A | ★★ Pop for the top | ★★ Very Good | |||||
First time outdoor bouldering in a long time. Was getting super close on this. Worsening conditions and bad skin. Next time.
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Mon 7th Aug 2023 - Wintour's Leap | |||||||
HVS 5a Hard | ★ Black Wall | 15m, 1 | ★ Good | ||||
Good gear below. Not so good gear up high. Still a good line overall.
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Sun 4th Jun 2023 - Wintour's Leap | |||||||
VS 4c ~HVS ~5a | ★★ Freedom | 30m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Nails for VS but an amazing route
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Sun 21st May 2023 - Wintour's Leap | |||||||
6a+ Hard | ★★ Oops upside your head | 14m, 7 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
felt pretty pushy for the grade but I was also quite dehydrated after a day of trad in the sun!
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VS 4c | ★★ Swallow's Nest | 27m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Led P1, thin but very nice moves
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HS 4b | ★ Moth | ★ Good | |||||
Led P1
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Thu 4th May 2023 - Wintour's Leap | |||||||
Bulging Flies - with Shunt | |||||||
Replaced threads. Jamming feels better. Crux move still a stopper.
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Mon 17th Apr 2023 - Wintour's Leap | |||||||
★★ Firefly - with Shunt | |||||||
Felt harder than last time, especially moves through second and third overhang.
A block and hold (?) seem to have come off. |
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Wed 25th Jan 2023 - Wyndcliff Quarry | |||||||
Upper Cliff | |||||||
5c | Gallions reach - with jon_gill1, Elis Rees | ||||||
Damp, felt hard.
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Tue 20th Dec 2022 - Wyndcliff Quarry | |||||||
Upper Cliff | |||||||
5a | Stranded No More - with jon_gill1 | 10m | |||||
Drying out after some torrential rain. Birthday climbing for Jon!
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Wed 30th Nov 2022 - Wyndcliff Quarry | |||||||
Upper Cliff | |||||||
6a | ★ Gone are the Days - with jon_gill1, Elis Rees | 16m | |||||
Almost decked from slip whilst clipping the third bolt.
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Sat 1st Oct 2022 - Wyndcliff Quarry | |||||||
Lower Cliff | |||||||
6c+ | ★ Miss Whiplash | ★ Good | |||||
2nd try
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Sat 17th Sep 2022 - Wyndcliff Quarry | |||||||
Lower Cliff | |||||||
6c+ | ★★ Mr Whippy | ★★ Very Good | |||||
3rd try, technical, polished, fun!
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Sun 11th Sep 2022 - Wyndcliff Quarry | |||||||
Lower Cliff | |||||||
6c+ | ★ Empire and Revolution | 12m, 3 | ★ Good | ||||
2nd try - would be a great route if it wasn't a bit of an eliminate
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Mon 29th Aug 2022 - Wintour's Leap | |||||||
VS 4c VS 4c | ★★ Butterfly | ★★ Very Good | |||||
alt leads with george
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Sun 14th Aug 2022 - Wynd cliff | |||||||
VD | The Gully | ||||||
Worse than it looks, incredibly muddy and overgrown. Split into two pitches but could have been done in one - there's a big ledge about 8m from the top to build an anchor. Then traversed to the final part of Lyon for second pitch to a tree belay. Scrambled up to a footpath which lead to eagles nest for a good view.
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Sun 24th Jul 2022 - Ban-y-Gor | |||||||
Twin Overhanging Bays | |||||||
6b+ | ★★★ Avidya — 3 attempts | 12m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Really fits the description "tough cookie", what a sandbag... hardest 6b+ of my life. 1st 2 bolts are probably a V3+/V4 continuous boulder problem, took a while to unlock the sequence. All in all I'd say this is at least 6c. Really satisfied with the send.
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Sun 24th Jul 2022 - Ban-y-Gor | |||||||
The White Slab | |||||||
6a+ | ★★ The royal thanks II | 10m | |||||
Best route in the white slab in my opinion
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6a | ★ Tinaderm | ||||||
Not sure if did the direct line 6b or a hibrid. The step up on the bad foot without going to the jugs on the right felt more than 6a.
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Sun 17th Jul 2022 - Ban-y-Gor | |||||||
Bongo Buttress | |||||||
6a+ | ★ Nation of shopkeepers | 12m | ★ Good | ||||
nails for 6a+...or just standard ban-y-gor grading!
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Sun 10th Jul 2022 - Ban-y-Gor | |||||||
Twin Overhanging Bays | |||||||
6c | ★★ The Good Friday Agreement | 13m | |||||
great route - 2nd try
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Sun 10th Jul 2022 - Ban-y-Gor | |||||||
Mandela Sector | |||||||
6b |
★ Lotus Wing
1
| ★ Good | |||||
2nd try...confusing routefinding but great climbing once you know the way!
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Sun 19th Jun 2022 - Wintour's Leap | |||||||
6a+ | ★★★ Still Nice and Still Sleazy | 32m | |||||
Nice bridging at the start. The crux is totally blind, the holds are there though, bit ballsy for the onsight, just go for it.
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Thu 16th Jun 2022 - Wintour's Leap | |||||||
HS HS 4b | ★ Greta - with Cheese Monkey | ||||||
Serious, intimidating climbing and not one I'd like to repeat. Pegs replaced.
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Wed 15th Jun 2022 - Shorn cliff | |||||||
The Berlin Wall | |||||||
HVS HVS 5a | ★★ Organ Grinder - with jon_gill1 | 20m | |||||
Fantastic route, a real battle on a hot day, but with good protection - just commit.
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Sat 28th May 2022 - Ban-y-Gor | |||||||
Twin Overhanging Bays | |||||||
6b+ | ★★★ Avidya | 12m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
felt nails for 6b+...2nd try
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6b+ | ★ Gordonzola | 11m | ★ Good | ||||
shame the good climbing doesn't last long...
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Sat 7th May 2022 - Wintour's Leap | |||||||
HS 4b HS 4b | ★★ Left Hand Route | ★★ Very Good | |||||
alt leads with lydia
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VS 4c VS 4c | ★★★ Nibelheim | ★★ Very Good | |||||
alt leads with lydia - linked p1 and p2
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HS 4b | Right Hand Route | 86m | Average | ||||
last pitch only after climbing left hand route
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Mon 2nd May 2022 - Wyndcliff Quarry | |||||||
Upper Cliff | |||||||
7b | ★★ House of magic | 14m, 6 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
after three sessions - good fight!
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Sun 20th Mar 2022 - Wintour's Leap | |||||||
VS 4b HS 4b | ★★ Left Hand Route | ★★ Very Good | |||||
Lovely route with enough tricky moves on each pitch to keep it interesting. Would say VS due to the big runouts but pegs and micro placements are there in the most difficult sections! Led both pitches
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Sat 29th Jan 2022 - Wyndcliff Quarry | |||||||
Lower Cliff | |||||||
6c+ 6c | ★★ Diminishing Returns | ★★ Very Good | |||||
3nd try after working moves on lead ground up and then once again on TR
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Sun 16th Jan 2022 - Wyndcliff Quarry | |||||||
Lower Cliff | |||||||
6a+ | ★ One Tooth Short of a Smile | 10m, 6 | ★ Good | ||||
nice flowy moves
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6c | ★ Shadows Run Black | ★ Good | |||||
hardest onsight so far - v happy with this one!! tough bouldery start and v difficult to clip the first draw
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Sun 19th Dec 2021 - Wintour's Leap | |||||||
VS 4c VS 4c | ★★★ Nibelheim | ★★ Very Good | |||||
P1 only
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Mon 8th Nov 2021 - Wintour's Leap | |||||||
VS 4b VS 4b | ★★ Zelda | 60m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
alt leads with ted. Great route with not much gear on P2 but some welcome pegs!
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Thu 4th Nov 2021 - Ban-y-Gor | |||||||
The Mushroom Walls | |||||||
4a | The Smiling Assassin Mr Bo | 10m | |||||
Roped solo.
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Wed 15th Sep 2021 - Wintour's Leap | |||||||
VS VS 5a | Flyhole - with jon_gill1 | ||||||
Hard for the grade.
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E1 E1 5b | Ecliptic - with jon_gill1 | ||||||
Brutal! Fell onto a handjam on pitch 1. Pitch 2 steep and sustained.
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Mon 30th Aug 2021 - Wynd cliff | |||||||
VS VS 4b | ★★★ Questor - with jon_gill1 | ||||||
Sustained, well-protected, great climb.
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★★ The Firebird - with jon_gill1 | |||||||
Stressful.
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Tue 25th May 2021 - Wintour's Leap | |||||||
★ Papillon - with Shunt | |||||||
From pedestal #3 wire on left.
At break: small hex top of lower crack, #4 RP under roof (left) - put in and rotate, #2 wire in slot on wall long way out right (above grass).
Feet in break: Good #1 wire just right of prow. Hands on jug and pull up.
Above jug, #6 wire.
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Tue 13th Apr 2021 - Wintour's Leap | |||||||
VS VS 5a | ★ The Split - with jon_gill1 | 27m | |||||
Battled with the off-width.
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Wed 7th Apr 2021 - Shorn cliff | |||||||
Great Central Cave Area | |||||||
HVS | ★★★ No Musketeers - with jon_gill1 | 33m | |||||
Excellent climb.
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HVS HVS 5a | ★★ The Laughing Cavaliers - with jon_gill1 | 28m | |||||
Still excellent.
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HS HS 4b | ★★ ...One for All - with jon_gill1 | 33m | |||||
Mellow warm up.
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The Spanish Inquisition - with jon_gill1 | 22m | ||||||
Sustained and insecure, don't be tempted to lead this!
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Fri 26th Mar 2021 - Wyndcliff Quarry | |||||||
Upper Cliff | |||||||
5c | The competence party - with jon_gill1 | ||||||
Rain and dark and two falls cut short the attempt!
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6b | Red Ken - with jon_gill1 | ||||||
Couldn't get off the floor!
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6a | The Toaster Man - with jon_gill1 | ||||||
Good route.
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5b | Better Pepper Feta - with jon_gill1 | ||||||
Lovely sunny evening after rainy day.
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5b | Don't Feed the Trolls - with jon_gill1 | ||||||
Avoid the perched blocks! Jams optional.
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5c | Hollow Talk - with jon_gill1 | ||||||
Great moves, just commit to the high steps.
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4b | Full fat diet - with jon_gill1 | ||||||
Nice warm-up.
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Fri 19th Mar 2021 - Wintour's Leap | |||||||
HVS | ★ Flies Rise - with jon_gill1 | ||||||
First pitch is horrid. Traversed L and finished up Moth in the dark.
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Sun 26th Jul 2020 - Wynd cliff | |||||||
HS 4b HS 4b | ★★ Papillon | ★ Good | |||||
There were some very interesting moves, marred by a confusing end
|
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E1 5b E1 5b | ★★★ The Don | ★★★ Classic | |||||
Very nice bridging. My guide has it at e2, but e1 is probably fairer.
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HVS 5a HVS 5a | ★★★ Sinew | ★★★ Classic | |||||
Great line and consistently interesting
|
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VS 4b VS 4b | ★★★ Questor | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||||
The mega classic for a reason, cool moves solid gear great position. Ukc might oversell it as one of the best vs in the country, but very worthwhile
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Sun 12th Jul 2020 - Symonds Yat | |||||||
Hollow Stone Area | |||||||
VD | ★★ Snoozin' Suzie | ★★ Very Good | |||||
Total classic, some loose rock but is a really fun must do! 30m
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Wed 1st Jul 2020 - Wintour's Leap | |||||||
E1 5b E1 5b | ★★ King Kong | 90m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
A great line with some great movement, seperated by some choss and vegetation.
I still think the crux is the one stopper move in the second pitch
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E3 6a E3 6a | ★★★ Kangaroo Wall | 90m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
A great line with some great movement, seperated by some choss and vegetation
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Mon 22nd Jun 2020 - Symonds Yat | |||||||
Hollow Stone Area | |||||||
VD | ★★ Snoozin' Suzie | ||||||
First trad lead!!
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Sun 8th Sep 2019 - Shorn cliff | |||||||
Abbey Buttress | |||||||
HVS 5a HVS 5a | ★★★ Tigers Don't Cry | 20m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Came back for the tick, chill this time
|
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Sun 8th Sep 2019 - Shorn cliff | |||||||
Tiger Bay | |||||||
E2 5c E2 5c | ★★ Touch the Fire | 21m | ★ Good | ||||
The start is spicy, but that doesn't really justify the grade
|
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E2 5b E2 5b | Pump It Up... Again | 17m | Average | ||||
Came back to get it with crack gloves, those jams do hurt
|
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Thu 15th Aug 2019 - Wynd cliff | |||||||
S 4b | The Crack - with Lolly Pope | ||||||
A cracking route
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Mon 22nd Jul 2019 - Wyndcliff Quarry | |||||||
Upper Cliff | |||||||
7a | ★★ Wilkinson's Sword - with Cat_McK | ||||||
First attempt after a year without trying I fell at the top just before the easy handhold (that I didn't know it was there). Second I attempt I sent it quite smoothly. Very happy. Second 7a.
|
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Mon 22nd Jul 2019 - Wintour's Leap | |||||||
VS 5a VS 5a | ★★ Cheetah | ★ Good | |||||
In drizzle the first pitch was hell. Muddy, slippery and uninspiring. The second, however has lovely moves on solid rock, can be runout, but its all there.
|
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E3 5c E3 5c | ★★★ White Feather | 30m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Hard and often psychological. The climbing is nice and reasonably protected.
|
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E2 5c | ★★★ Yesterdays Dreams | 30m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Followed this one. Really nice, equal difficulty to white feather, but maybe better protected.
|
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Fri 19th Jul 2019 - Wintour's Leap | |||||||
E1 5c E1 5c | ★★ Wurlitzer | ★★ Very Good | |||||
Nice route, not an obvious line, but it all fits.
|
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HVS 5a HVS 5a | ★★ Dragonfly | ★★ Very Good | |||||
Follows obvious corner cracks. Could do with some cleaning, and there is actually less gear than you expect. Second pitch was lovely.
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