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Routes in Glen Clova (Red Craig)

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Showing all 21 routes.

Grade Route Gear style Popularity Crag
Trad
E1 5b Guiness
Trad 50m, 3 The Cairngorms
HVS 5a Special Brew
Trad 50m, 3 The Cairngorms
E2 5b Pudding Fingers
Trad 35m The Cairngorms
VS 4c For a Handful of Beans
Trad 30m The Cairngorms
E3 5c Just Another Sparkler
Trad 15m The Cairngorms
HVS 5b Zig Zag Direct

Sustained.

  1. 20m. Zigzag right across the slab to a large block with a runner. Pull over the block and climb the crack on the right to belay on a pedestal above a deep cleft.

  2. 25m. Climb the corner above then zag out left at a prominent rail beneath the capping roofs.

Trad 45m, 2 The Cairngorms
E2 5c Zig Zag Double Direct

Start right of ZigZag, below the open corner following the steep crack-line through the roof. Then continue up as for ZigZag to the pedestal above the cleft. Continue climbing the corner, but take the right exit through the roof. Good holds await.

Trad 40m The Cairngorms
VS 4b Alder
  1. 10m. Follow the wide crack to a nut and a PB on a large ledge.

  2. 20m. Move out right then back left to finish directly up.

Trad 30m, 2 The Cairngorms
E1 5b Red Wall

An Excellent line.

  1. 20m. Climb the steep flake /badly protected to start) that is right of a detached larger flake. Gain a sloping ledge above, and then continue up a quartz chimney. Belay.

  2. 15m. Step out right and climb the fine crack on perfect rock to the top.

Trad 35m, 2 The Cairngorms
M Twenty Minute Route

Line follows the broken rib bounding the left side of the main face.

  1. 10m. The corner. Belay on terrace.

  2. 10m. Left slanting crack to tree belay.

  3. 15m. Climb behind the tree to gain a slab.

  4. 10m. Cross the slab and move left to easy ground.

Trad 45m, 4 The Cairngorms
HVS 5b Wander

Start beneath a prominent vertical crack 6m left of the big corner of Beanstalk. Go up the crack to a ledge then move left and climb the shallow corner to a tree. Step out right and finish up a crack.

Trad 30m The Cairngorms
HVS 5a Wandered

As for Wander until the ledge, then move right into the recess/ledge. Climb this awkwardly and then step out to the arete and up to an exposed finish.

Trad 30m The Cairngorms
VS 4b The Beanstalk

The big recessed diedre in the centre of the face. When you reach the big ledge, continue slightly rightwards to a tree and crack behind it. Alternatively climb the corner at the recess for a harder finish.

Trad 30m The Cairngorms
VS 4c Proud Corner

A classic of the sector. Start right of Beanstalk and climb the cracks that lad up to a good ledge around 10m. Climb the flakes to an old runner, then climb pockets, then move right to a small ledge and corner to finish.

Trad 30m The Cairngorms
E2 5c Taken By Force

Start up jamming the strenuous crack left of "Monster's Crack", then continue easily to the top.

Trad 25m The Cairngorms
HS 4b Monster's Crack

Prominent left-facing corner crack.

Trad 20m The Cairngorms
E1 5b Witches Tooth

Start left of the pillar, reach a niche. Step left to a corner crack and follow to finish.

Trad 20m The Cairngorms
HVS 5a Cauldron Crack

Overhanging recess with good holds and good protection that is found right of the pillar. Climb to a tree and continue the short wall behind.

Trad 20m The Cairngorms
HS Parapet Route Direct Start
Trad 12m The Cairngorms
HS 4b Central Crack

Climb thin corner crack running straight up the face.

Trad 45m The Cairngorms
MVS Parapet Route Direct

Start 4m further right than the normal start at another short shallow left-facing corner near the right end of the terrace.

Trad 45m The Cairngorms

Showing all 21 routes.

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