Grade | Route | Gear style | Crag | Quality | Climber | Date | |||
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6a HVS 6a | ★★ Rusty Wall | 11m | Stanage | 2000 | |||||
6a E3 6a | ★★★ Tippler Direct | 16m | Stanage | ★★★ Classic | 2000 | ||||
E3 6a E3 6a | ★★ The Asp | 10m | Stanage | ★★ Very Good | Wed 8th May 2013 | ||||
Short but action packed crack route. Gear a little tricky, try not to fill your hand holds with gear.
It was kind of over before I knew it about good value at E3.
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HVS 6a | ★ Suzanne | 8m | Stanage | Sun 11th Dec 2022 | |||||
6A boulder. Didn't top out as snowy
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E3 6a | ★★★ Tippler Direct - with Gabi A. | 16m | Stanage | ★★ Very Good | Sat 2nd Sep 2006 | ||||
No idea how many attempts ...
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5c HVS 5c | ★ Pedlar's Slab | 11m | Stanage | ★ Good | 2001 | ||||
5c E1 5c | ★★ Pedlar's Rib | 11m | Stanage | ★ Good | 2001 | ||||
5c HVS 5c | ★★ Rugosity Wall | 11m | Stanage | 2000 | |||||
5c E4 5c | Spasticus Artisticus | 10m | Stanage | 2000 | |||||
frightening
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5c E1 5c | ★★ Providence | 15m | Stanage | ★★ Very Good | 2000 | ||||
E1 5c E1 5c | ★ Greengrocer Wall | 10m | Stanage | ★ Good | Sat 29th Sep 2018 | ||||
E3 5c | ★★ Censor - with Gabi A. | 15m | Stanage | ★ Good | Fri 1st Sep 2006 | ||||
E1 5c | ★★★ Twintrin - with Jonty M-J | 14m | Stanage | Sun 8th Sep 2019 | |||||
5b E1 5b | ★★ Easter Rib | 15m | Stanage | ★★ Very Good | Thu 10th Aug 2006 | ||||
Good moves. Some might consider this run out.
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5b E1 5b | ★★ The Mississippi Variant Direct | 22m | Stanage | Tue 13th Apr 2010 | |||||
5b HVS 5b | ★★★ Congo Corner | 24m | Stanage | Tue 13th Apr 2010 | |||||
5b HVS 5b | ★★★ Congo Corner | 24m | Stanage | ★★ Very Good | Tue 5th Apr 2005 | ||||
special
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5b E1 5b | ★★ The Mississippi Variant Direct | 22m | Stanage | ★ Good | Tue 26th Oct 2004 | ||||
5b E1 5b | ★★ Saliva | 15m | Stanage | Tue 13th Apr 2010 | |||||
5b HVS 5b | ★★★ Congo Corner | 24m | Stanage | Sun 1st Jul 1990 | |||||
5b HVS 5b | ★★ The Flange | 15m | Stanage | ★★ Very Good | Thu 1st Apr 2004 | ||||
5b E1 5b | ★★ The Mississippi Variant Direct | 22m | Stanage | 2004 | |||||
5b HVS 5b | ★ Rusty Crack | 11m | Stanage | 2004 | |||||
5b E1 5b | ★★ The Link | 22m | Stanage | ★★ Very Good | Tue 26th Oct 2004 | ||||
5b HVS 5b | ★★ Rugosity Crack | 9m | Stanage | ★★ Very Good | 2000 | ||||
5b E1 5b | ★★★ Flying Buttress Direct | 20m | Stanage | ★★★ Classic | 1983 | ||||
5b E1 5b | ★★ Kirkus's Corner | 16m | Stanage | ★★★ Classic | Mon 13th Aug 2007 | ||||
5b E1 5b | ★★ The Link | 22m | Stanage | ★★★ Classic | 2005 | ||||
proper bo
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5b E1 5b | ★★ Kirkus's Corner | 16m | Stanage | ★★★ Mega Classic | 2000 | ||||
5b E1 5b | ★★ The Link | 22m | Stanage | 2004 | |||||
5b HVS 5b | ★★ Leaning Buttress Direct | 16m | Stanage | ★★ Very Good | Fri 16th Jun 2006 | ||||
Fabulous start... then fabulous again to get off the ledge.
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5b HVS 5b | ★★ Leaning Buttress Direct | 16m | Stanage | ★ Good | Sat 5th Aug 2006 | ||||
Like a miniture Watchtowr (Arapiles).
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5b HVS 5b | ★★★ Congo Corner | 24m | Stanage | 2004 | |||||
5b HVS 5b | ★★ The Flange | 15m | Stanage | ★★ Very Good | Tue 13th Apr 2010 | ||||
5b HVS 5b | ★★ Black Magic | 15m | Stanage | ★★ Very Good | 2001 | ||||
5b HVS 5b | ★ Rusty Crack | 11m | Stanage | Tue 13th Apr 2010 | |||||
HVS HVS 5b | ★★ Prudence | 15m | Stanage | ★ Good | Wed 1st Sep 2004 | ||||
5b HVS 5b | ★★★ Congo Corner | 24m | Stanage | ★★★ Classic | Sun 1st Aug 2004 | ||||
HVS HVS 5b | ★★ Prudence | 15m | Stanage | ★★★ Classic | Sat 9th Feb 2008 | ||||
nice line, techo diagonal crack climb
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5b E1 5b | ★★ Easter Rib | 15m | Stanage | ★ Good | 2003 | ||||
5b E1 5b | ★★★ Flying Buttress Direct | 20m | Stanage | Tue 13th Apr 2010 | |||||
5b HVS 5b | ★ Rusty Crack | 11m | Stanage | ★ Good | Thu 10th Aug 2006 | ||||
Kind of a crack.
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5b HVS 5b | ★★★ Congo Corner | 24m | Stanage | ★★★ Mega Classic | Tue 13th Apr 2010 | ||||
5b HVS 5b | ★ Rusty Crack | 11m | Stanage | 2000 | |||||
5b HVS 5b | ★★ The Flange | 15m | Stanage | ★★★ Mega Classic | Tue 13th Apr 2010 | ||||
5b HVS 5b | ★★ The Flange | 15m | Stanage | ★ Good | Sun 1st Jul 2001 | ||||
5b E1 5b | ★★★ Flying Buttress Direct | 20m | Stanage | ★★★ Mega Classic | 2000 | ||||
5b HVS 5b | ★★★ Congo Corner | 24m | Stanage | ★★★ Mega Classic | Tue 13th Apr 2010 | ||||
5b E1 5b | ★★★ Flying Buttress Direct | 20m | Stanage | Tue 13th Apr 2010 | |||||
5b E1 5b | ★★ Kirkus's Corner | 16m | Stanage | ★ Good | Wed 16th Aug 2006 | ||||
Long reach for a poor hold and then an exciting finish up a corner.
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5b HVS 5b | ★★ Eliminator | 15m | Stanage | ★★ Very Good | 2000 | ||||
5b HVS 5b | ★ Pedlar's Wall | 10m | Stanage | ★ Good | 2001 | ||||
5b E1 5b | ★★ The Tippler | 20m | Stanage | ★★★ Mega Classic | 2000 | ||||
HVS HVS 5b | ★★★ Congo Corner | 24m | Stanage | 2010 | |||||
E1 5b E1 5b | ★★ The Link | 22m | Stanage | ★★★ Classic | Sun 28th Apr 2013 | ||||
What a route to finish the day on! Amazingly steep and sporty to clear the roof prow, followed by run-outs and technical grit to the top. It's awesome that a route like this goes on gear and at a reasonable grade. One of the best.
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E1 5b E1 5b | ★★★ Flying Buttress Direct | 20m | Stanage | ★★★ Classic | Wed 8th May 2013 | ||||
So fun, the peaks answer to kachoong. Grit roof flakes of swinging goodness.
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E1 5b E1 5b | ★★ Kirkus's Corner | 16m | Stanage | ★★ Very Good | Wed 8th May 2013 | ||||
Not too hard (despite what the guide says), but falling after clearing the roof wouldn't end well. A brief bit of punchiness followed by delicate friction corner stemming. No gear after the roof.
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E2 5b E2 5b | ★★★ Wuthering | 20m | Stanage | ★★★ Classic | Wed 8th May 2013 | ||||
Classic grit bold (read: death) face climbing. Stemming out of the corner into a cutloose move is awesome, then thin face climbing around the arête and to the middle of the wall with no protection gets the heart going. When protection does arrive, 2/3rds of the route is over. Great, thin, moderately technical committing climbing.
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HVS 5b HVS 5b | ★★ Leaning Buttress Direct | 16m | Stanage | Fri 2nd Aug 2013 | |||||
HVS 5b HVS 5b | ★★ Rugosity Crack | 9m | Stanage | Fri 5th Nov 2010 | |||||
E1 5b E1 5b | Big Chris | 10m | Stanage | Fri 5th Nov 2010 | |||||
HVS 5b HVS 5b | ★★ Leaning Buttress Direct - with Atreyu de Lacy | 16m | Stanage | ★ Good | Sat 16th May 2015 | ||||
E1 5b E1 5b | ★★★ Flying Buttress Direct - with Atreyu de Lacy | 20m | Stanage | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sat 16th May 2015 | ||||
E1 5b E1 5b | ★★ Kirkus's Corner - with Atreyu de Lacy | 16m | Stanage | ★ Good | Sat 16th May 2015 | ||||
VS 5b VS 5b | ★★ Cleft Wing - with Atreyu de Lacy | 12m | Stanage | ★★ Very Good | Wed 20th May 2015 | ||||
HVS 5b HVS 5b | ★★ Leaning Buttress Direct | 16m | Stanage | ★★★ Classic | Sat 26th Nov 2016 | ||||
E1 5b E1 5b | ★★★ Flying Buttress Direct - with Daniel | 20m | Stanage | ★★★ Classic | Sat 18th Aug 2018 | ||||
Phenomenal roof climb; heel hooks and a bit of upper arm strength is helpful. The initial slab already bears the marks of (probably?) thousands of contestants, but is still easy enough without protection. The roof itself is protected well enough (building a "safety net" as the guidebook suggests), so you can just commit and pull on the jugs. The hardest thing is getting into a standing position again.
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HVS 5b HVS 5b | ★★ Whillans' Pendulum - with Daniel | 16m | Stanage | ★★ Very Good | Sat 18th Aug 2018 | ||||
Extremely reachy start on jugs, a swing up right onto the ledge (first pro), followed by a pleasant slab on slopers.
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E2 5b E2 5b | ★★ Yosemite Wall - with Daniel | 16m | Stanage | ★★ Very Good | Sat 18th Aug 2018 | ||||
A good slopery slab in the upper part (protected by a single small wire) which is reached via some hard moves up leftwards onto a good ledge. Not bad!
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E1 5b E1 5b | ★★ The Tippler - with Daniel | 20m | Stanage | ★★ Very Good | Sat 18th Aug 2018 | ||||
Pumpy and bold in the traverse (I don't think you can place something halfway through), but good gear before the crux moves up into the easier slab.
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E2 5b E2 5b | ★★ Yosemite Wall | 16m | Stanage | ★★ Very Good | Sat 29th Sep 2018 | ||||
5b HVS 5b | ★ Rusty Crack | 11m | Stanage | Sat 25th May 2019 | |||||
HVS 5b HVS 5b | ★★ Leaning Buttress Direct - with Tom Blake | 16m | Stanage | Tue 3rd Sep 2019 | |||||
E1 5b E1 5b | ★★ The Mississippi Variant Direct | 22m | Stanage | ★★ Very Good | Thu 30th Jul 2020 | ||||
Very very reachy move, then it chills
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E2 5b E2 5b | ★★ Yosemite Wall - with Sara C. | 16m | Stanage | ★★ Very Good | Sat 24th Apr 2021 | ||||
E1 5b E1 5b | ★★ The Link - with Phelim | 22m | Stanage | ★★ Very Good | Thu 22nd Apr 2021 | ||||
HVS 5b HVS 5b | ★★ Eliminator | 15m | Stanage | ★★ Very Good | Sat 24th Apr 2021 | ||||
HVS 5b HVS 5b | Manchester United - with Michelle C | Stanage | Wed 9th Feb 2022 | ||||||
used flake on right to avoid the 'really' big reach
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E1 5b E1 5b | ★★★ Flying Buttress Direct | 20m | Stanage | ★★★ Mega Classic | Mon 23rd May 2022 | ||||
HVS 5b HVS 5b | ★★★ Congo Corner | 24m | Stanage | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sat 28th May 2022 | ||||
E1 5b E1 5b | ★★ The Mississippi Variant Direct | 22m | Stanage | ★★★ Classic | Sat 28th May 2022 | ||||
E1 5b E1 5b | ★★ Morrison's Redoubt | 18m | Stanage | ★★ Very Good | Sat 28th May 2022 | ||||
HVS 5b HVS 5b | ★★ Leaning Buttress Direct | 16m | Stanage | Tue 19th Jul 2022 | |||||
5b HVS 5b | Square Buttress Direct (Valkyrie Buttress Direct) | 7m | Stanage | Mon 5th Jul 2021 | |||||
Lovely climb, done in one pitch, didn't feel particularly bold; of course, the few moves that have moss on them get quite slippery even in light rain, then the lose blocks on top transitioning into stony top out with grass turned into a slide by rain and climbing shoes; but overall, a lovely climb, full two stars from me.
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E1 5b | ★★ The Link | 22m | Stanage | Tue 16th May 2023 | |||||
E1 5b | ★★★ Flying Buttress Direct - with Dany Chanda | 20m | Stanage | ★★★ Mega Classic | Tue 13th Jun 2023 | ||||
HVS 5b | ★★★ Congo Corner | 24m | Stanage | Thu 20th Jul 2023 | |||||
VS 5b | ★★ Cleft Wing | 12m | Stanage | Thu 20th Jul 2023 | |||||
HVS 5b | ★★ Paucity | 18m | Stanage | Wed 19th Jul 2023 | |||||
E1 5b | Tip Off Right | 14m | Stanage | Sat 12th Aug 2023 | |||||
HVS 5b | ★★ Prudence | 15m | Stanage | Sat 12th Aug 2023 | |||||
E1 5b | ★★ Kirkus's Corner | 16m | Stanage | Sat 12th Aug 2023 | |||||
E1 5b | ★★ Easter Rib | 15m | Stanage | Tue 15th Aug 2023 | |||||
E1 5b Hard | ★★★ Flying Buttress Direct | 20m | Stanage | ★★★ Classic | Tue 15th Aug 2023 | ||||
E1 5b | ★★ Another Game of Bowls Sir Walter | 15m | Stanage | Mon 21st Aug 2023 | |||||
E1 5b | ★★ Easter Rib | 15m | Stanage | Wed 30th Aug 2023 | |||||
HVS 5b | ★★ Eliminator - with Joshua | 15m | Stanage | Wed 23rd Aug 2023 | |||||
HVS 5b | ★★ Whillans' Pendulum - with Joshua, Jonathan | 16m | Stanage | Sun 10th Sep 2023 | |||||
HVS 5b | ★★ Leaning Buttress Direct - with Joshua, Jonathan | 16m | Stanage | Sun 10th Sep 2023 | |||||
HVS HVS 5b | ★★ Leaning Buttress Direct | 16m | Stanage | Sat 8th Oct 2022 |