Ascents in High Neb

Avoided first crux, managed top thin crux. Guido led with avoidences and side runners.

Guido led,I would try this as a first delicate, but bold E2 lead. A mat might help.

jon the cowboy cave decided to make this his first every trad lead after seconding some e1's without difficulty. set up an anchor for him at the top, and off he went. He immediately got into groundfall territory by doing a massive run out above his first peice until I told him to place something. Then I told him to back it up cause if it pops he is dead. Then he set off again, climbed past another placement opportunity on a big run out into the roof. I suggested he might want to place another piece, but he was too pumped to place anything and couldn't reverse the move into the roof he had just done. So he took his first Trad whip. Thankfully the pieces held fine. But he had left a cam half way up the roof so we had some fun getting it out. Then he bailed onto an easier route out right. What a ride. He had a good time though. so we did what i imagine is a fairly popular variation; the start of quietus into Norse corner climb.

Burly roof

Gosh this was hard. The crux is definitely not the overhang.

Start seemed 22+ to us! Gave up and climbed the arete coz I was getting pulled sideways by the toprope but still hitting the ground on stretch. Gets HVS 5c on ukc which makes more sense.

Backlogs. Hard beginning

Traversed left at half height, placed side runner and then traversed back in and led through. One hard move above gear to side, prob HVS with side runner.

Fun few moves through roof. Well protected. Could do it with a plan I think

Backlogs. Could not do the top move through the crack and cheated my way on the right side as people were getting impatient to jump on it

A bit more technical and run out than high neb. very good

Looked like a pretty scary lead to me but Raphael didn’t seem too bothered. Slab with shallow breaks…

Backlogs. Nice climb for refreshing gear placements

pied à la main as the french would say, levely delicate route, unfortunately overzealous cam placement and subsequent weighting is ruining the route.

unfortunately it had started raining and the crag was very slippy-still a good climb and will definitely do it again in good weather...one I would like to lead-excellent top out