Routes in Moelwynion

A pleasant route. Start as for Overhanging Crack.

1. 5a, 24m. Follow Overhanging Crack pitch 1 to a junction with Double Criss and then continue up Double Criss to its stance. The first ascent climbed the corner to the right (also 5a) but this is not as good.

2. 5b, 16m. Technical hand and foot-traverse moves lead across the right wall. The airy arete offers bold but steady climbing.

Graded VS in the guide but much harder, 5b or even 5c to start

P1 (4b) Start in prominent corner up and right of main slab, scramble up grassy grooe to treach good rock and climb up to obvious traverse line (going left). Follow the classy traverse with great handholds and gear across slab into niche just before the v-corner. P2 (5a) move left and climb the corner, bridge, wedge, squirm past good gear to a ledge on left (possible good belay). Step off right into the abyss and climb the crack to ledge before stepping back left onto arete which is followed to top on jugs

1 5a 5m Enter the corner, via the right wall and continue up to the ledge 2 5a 16m Take the obvious traverse line across the right wall and finish up the slab right of the arete. Bold finish. This climb was in the 1983 CC guide to Tremadog.

Lies on South-West spur of Craig y Clipiau.

#SD

#SD

The overhanging Arete of Inverted Staircase. Start at the groove just right of Phidl.

Scramble up to the base of the crack on the left side of the tower. Climb the crack, move left into a scooped depression, then right to regain a flake/crack. Go up and right towards the top of the tower.