Routes in Wales

1. 16m, 6b. From the base of the rift reach and follow jugs left to the arête at the foot of the crack (a sling flicked onto a spike protects the start). Power up the crack to massive holds over the lip. Scramble 6m to belay at the base of the inset headwall. Almost as hard as Undercut Crack at Bamford.

2. 15m, 5b. Climb totally direct up the fawn coloured leaning wall to a ledge at 5m. Continue straight up, keeping about 2-3m right of a broken black crackline to easier ground and a belay in the niche. Traverse right and climb down the ledge to the usual descent.

Popular route. Affected by rock fall so the first pitch description may not be accurate - see https://www.thebmc.co.uk/tremadog-danger! Starts at the base of a steep groove where there is a ledge with a large tree on it to the left.

1. 25m (4c). Climb to a large tree, traverse left and climb up ledges to the bottom of a groove, ascend this to belay off a large flake on a ledge.

2. 30m (4c). Go left, climb up cracks, then up and right to reach a small ledge and spike above a roof. Climb slab with ledges until at the same height of a crack on the right. Climb right into the crack, then up onto slab and rightwards to reach a belay below and left of the flake on the next pitch.

3. 15m. Climb up and traverse the hanging flake, then up and onto an optional belay on a ledge. Climb back left, then up the groove to a belay at the top of the cliff.

S 4a 25m, 4a 15m, 4a 20m

A much-ascended classic taking the easiest line up Plum Buttress © Rockfax

5 Pitches, great for bringing beginners, or on a wet day.

HS 4a 15m, 4b 20m, ? 30m

Start below the obvious corner crack in the centre of the cliff. Climb a steep wall to gain the main corner crack, which is followed to the main overhangs. Traverse rightwards to a cave, move right and climb the overhang at its narrowest point, then trend left to the top. A cheesy right hand start is available up the left-hand of the cracks to the right.

Climb the prominent groove. Swing left near the top, to finish up the left arête. It is also possible to finish direct at a slightly harder grade.

Climb a leftward rising crack/corner line below and right of the overhangs to a ledge beneath a steep wall. Traverse left past a crack above and climb the bulging wall to a chimney. Climb the chimney, step left along the lip of the overhang. Continue up left to a crack which is followed to a pinnacle. The climb finishes up a short chimney on the right side of the three overhangs