Ascents in United States of America by David Gibbs having sport-cpr or ascent-date

Couldn't pull the steep crimps around bolt 2.

I found the steep lower section very pumpy -- managed to pull through, but took a good long rest on the ledge once I got there. No problem with the technical/thin finish.

Thoguht this was 5.8 -- so kept describing as a hard 5.8... turns out it is 5.9! Was worried after seeing Phil have difficulty in the upper section -- but went smoothly for me.

Upper pitch was closed (raptors). First pitch seems a bit easier than 5.9 -- perhaps 5.7+ or maybe 5.8. Decent, but not great, climbing.

After accidentally leading Oh Shit, decided I should do a second 10b on purpose. One where I couldn't trick my way around any of the moves.

Thought this was a 5.10a, so went after it 3rd (had done a couple 5.8s here). It was considerably stiffer than those, especially with the very steep start. Hand-jams definitely helped at the start, though. Did some stemming in the upper bits, which might have been off-route.

Was wet in places, so finished on the last two bolts of the 10b to the right. Might actually be a more interesting variation than the regular finish, but wants a couple long draws to prevent rope drag.

Would be nice to have one more bolt at the start, otherwise, still a classic.

Would be nice to have a bolt to the right for the start.

So not my style! Steep, pumpy, and tricky figuring out what were the good holds. Glad to get the on-sight.

Very steep finish -- but on huge jugs, amazing at 5.9. It is super-fun!

Linked P1 & P2 -- didn't do (the new extension) P3.

End of the day, and I expected to fall off, but didn't.

Excellent climbing, too bad so many of the holds are telegraphed by chalk.

I really enjoyed this one -- varied and interesting climbing.

Still very sharp.

Sustained at the grade, right up to clipping the anchors..

Seemed the hardest of the three 5.8s on Bunny Wall.

Seemed soft for a 5.8, but fun climbing.

Followed P1 (the crux), lead P2.

A large (dinner plate size, but thicker) foothold broke off just above the first bolt. I fell, then re-climbed, choosing different beta.

A small foothold broke in the first move or two, landed on ground & restarted.

Fun climbing, but seemed very soft for 5.8.

I like chimney and stem climbs --- and if I don't have to bring wide (i.e. heavy) gear to protect them, that makes them a favourite for me.

Awesome fun!

Tricky over the bulge.

First three bolts were nice climbing -- too bad about the rest.

The crack was dripping wet -- but the rock had enough texture that it still climbed just fine.

Once done the opening section, rest of the slab is a bit dull.

Last climb of the day, and I expected it to go easier than Pangborm since the guide gives this as 5.9, but it is clearly harder. I did both on lead, but another climber who lead Pangborn but followed this felt that this was, also, clearly harder.

Sustained thin 5.9 at the start, hard move after the ramp, then a sustained mix of 5.8, 5.9, and 5.10a moves up the upper section. And it just keeps going and going.

Long, long, long -- but mostly 5.8 climbing. A few 5.9 sequences, and just one 5.10a move. A very soft-feeling 5.10a climb.

Steep for a 5.6

The initial bulge, as you click the first bolt, looks a lot steeper when you're below it than when you're looking up from the base of the route, but it goes well on good holds. The crux is, actually, near the top of the upper face. My hardest on-sight at Rumney so far, I didn't expect to get it clean when I set out to lead it.

Thought I was doing the 5.10- TR. Pulled on bolts (glue-ins, so ok) at two different points. Still hard.

Loved it!

Good climbing.