Routes in Eastern California

Direct start version into "Jumbo Love".

One of the most blank and impossible dihedrals out there. First climbed by Randy Leavitt with pre-placed pitons and hand jammies worn on his palms in 1997 and has seen possibly only two ascents since then.

One of the hardest routes in Joshua Tree. Considered a bit of a sandbag.

The New Deal is the first 5.14a established by an American. Scott Cosgrove did the first ascent on Super Bowl Sunday January 31st, 1988 and he suggested the grade of 5.13d. It took 22 years for the New Deal to see a second ascent. Alan Moore repeated the New Deal in 2010 and suggested the grade of 5.14a. Video of second ascent.

An incredibly striking overhanging finger crack that serves as the only line up an imposing tomb stone. All time!

Strenous traverse on tiny holds and footholds. Requires insane precision and perfect beta. If you like technical, slabby climbing, this is for you

An amazing excursion perched up high on this exposed ledge but with an excellent landing. Crank out some tricky tension moves through the long roof to a very hard crux at the end. Top outs are possible but easy and choss.

An inconceivable sandbag at 13b. Most consider it to be at least 13d and probably still a sand bag at that. Classy 12+ arete climbing gets you to an improbable crux. An excellent line.

Video beta, 3rd and 4th ascent

The short and intense splitter running up the centre of the boulder. Interesting and fun finger crack moves lead to an absolutely desperate crux at the top.

Powerful and reachy moves. Extremely height dependant, might feel impossible at ess that 5' 11" wingspan. If you have the reach, it might actually be fun to do this

Mini documentary Caveman

A brilliant power endurance route. Well bolted and fun all the way!

Mini documentary My Idea of Fun

Start up the hand crack as for Rubicon but then quest out on to the blank face above passing 5(?) bolts.

Start 10 feet under the roof, climbing a wide crack pulling the roof into the wide flaring crack to top out.

Yabo-start under the low roof. Throw some cool gastons to meet up with Chuckwalla.

Sit start

TR climb following a dike to the right of Butterfly and joining it near the top.