Grade | Route | Gear style | Quality | Climber | |||
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Thu 23rd May 2024 - Indian Creek Canyon | |||||||
Along Road 211 Donnelly Canyon | |||||||
5.10a | ★★ Chocolate Corner | 18m | |||||
first time leading this - only had my rack and had to fiddle with gear so a bit pumpy, but a good measure of progress since this time last year!
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Thu 23rd May 2024 - Indian Creek Canyon | |||||||
Along Road 211 Battle of the Bulge Buttress | |||||||
5.10 | ★ Unnamed 5.10 | 21m | |||||
Wed 22nd May 2024 - Indian Creek Canyon | |||||||
Along Road 211 Scarface Wall | |||||||
5.9 | ★★ Fertile Crescent | 18m | |||||
EoD after loads of scouting, head wasn't there so backcleaned the pillar
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Wed 22nd May 2024 - Indian Creek Canyon | |||||||
Along Road 211 Supercrack Buttress | |||||||
5.8 | ★★ Twin Cracks | 12m | |||||
Wed 22nd May 2024 - Indian Creek Canyon | |||||||
Along Road 211 Donnelly Canyon | |||||||
5.9 | ★★ Binou's Crack | 16m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
still super fun
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Mon 20th May 2024 - Indian Creek Canyon | |||||||
Along Road 211 Supercrack Buttress | |||||||
5.10b | ★★ Gorilla Crack | 34m | |||||
EoD lap to clean, felt smoother, worked out alternate beta to fist stack
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5.11d | ★★ Pringles | 34m | |||||
fun, strenuous layback with tenuous smear. it's kinda all there but would never lead this, I like having fingers attached and intact. logging as 11+ having stemmed to Gorilla where they join up
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5.10b | ★★ Gorilla Crack | 34m | |||||
first route of the trip! was slow, still not confident on yellows to blues
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Sun 19th May 2024 - Indian Creek Canyon | |||||||
Along Road 211 Donnelly Canyon | |||||||
5.11c | ★ Naked and Dead Alt Start | 15m | |||||
5.9 |
★ The Naked and the Dead P1
1
| 45m | |||||
Fri 17th May 2024 - Indian Creek Canyon | |||||||
Along Road 211 Supercrack Buttress | |||||||
5.10 | ★★★ Incredible Hand Crack | 30m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Hung once. Gnarly roof!
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5.10b | ★★ Gorilla Crack | 34m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Estrenando cams!!!
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Wed 15th May 2024 - Indian Creek Canyon | |||||||
Trick Or Treat Wall | |||||||
5.10 | ★★ Q | ★★ Very Good | |||||
Sat 11th May 2024 - Indian Creek Canyon | |||||||
Along Road 211 Supercrack Buttress | |||||||
5.8 | ★★ Twin Cracks | 12m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
5.10b | ★★★ 3 A.M. Crack | 34m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Fucken banger
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5.10b | ★★ Gorilla Crack | 34m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
5.10 | ★★★ Supercrack of the Desert | 30m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Fri 10th May 2024 - Indian Creek Canyon | |||||||
The Optimator | |||||||
5.10 | ★★ Neat | 30m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
5.8 | ★★ Charlie's Pillar | 18m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
5.10- | ★★ Lady Pillar | 34m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Fri 10th May 2024 - Indian Creek Canyon | |||||||
Along Road 211 Battle of the Bulge Buttress | |||||||
5.12c | ★★★ Digital Readout | 15m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Kicked my ass
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5.11a | ★★★ Cave Route | ★★★ Classic | |||||
Coming back for the send
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Fri 10th May 2024 - Indian Creek Canyon | |||||||
Along Road 211 Donnelly Canyon | |||||||
5.9 ~5.10b | ★★★ Generic Crack | 33m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Coming back for the send
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Mon 6th May 2024 - Indian Creek Canyon | |||||||
Along Road 211 Supercrack Buttress | |||||||
5.10 | ★★★ No Name Crack | 37m | |||||
Overhung baggy #3s forever with very limited rest opportunities - absolute pump fest
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5.8 | ★★ Twin Cracks | 12m | |||||
Has everything exactly where you need it to keep it 5.8
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5.10 | ★★ Amaretto Pitch 1 | 18m | |||||
Plunged a #5 into a #4 sized crack. Had to come back for a hammer lap to get it out. Busted the trigger but it's still good! First stuck cam experience, what a treat
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Wed 1st May 2024 - Indian Creek Canyon | |||||||
Along Road 211 Battle of the Bulge Buttress | |||||||
5.10+ | ★★★ Schrödinger's Cat | 32m | |||||
Indian creek rock up at the car park and ask the first crew you see to climb with you pays off.
Saw a group of 6 fun looking folk hanging around and asked if I could join them, they said they didn't know what they were climbing - just said they were waiting for a friend to arrive and they were doing some of their wide FAs. Well their friend was Pamela Pack and it turns out I was dropping in on her art of offwidth clinic and she was stoked to have me to mooch off her knowledge. With unmatched stoke and enthusiasm "And who's this guy???? Got a rope? Let's go climb some wide stuff!" Learned how to tape effectively, how to climb every size on this climb - it tapers (very smoothly) from #1 to #8 - did this on a mock lead, placing #8 cams feels exactly as sick as you think it does. Had Pam spraying me down on. A fixed line from above and Gisely from the ground, doesn't get better than this. Best climbing day ever? Certainly up there. |
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5.10 | ★★★ Elbow Vices | 30m | |||||
Read the offwidth section wrong and struggled, was absolutely cooking by the time the jams came
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5.10+ | ★★★ Pigs In Space | 37m | |||||
Sick climb! Awesome jams the whole way thin hands to fists to fingers, has it all
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5.11a | ★★★ Crack Attack | ||||||
Sick climb, coolum style roof crux moves into thin hands. The start section was cruisy for the big handed but burly
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Tue 30th Apr 2024 - Indian Creek Canyon | |||||||
Along Road 211 Supercrack Buttress | |||||||
5.12a | ★★★ Coyne Crack | ||||||
Took the ringlock/thin hands exam way too early. Splitter .75 Crux into splitter 1s. 5.11 in the book, 5.11d on MP, I'm claiming the crag 5.12a with my big hands. Absolutely rinsed getting up this
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Mon 29th Apr 2024 - Indian Creek Canyon | |||||||
Along Road 211 High Horse | |||||||
5.10+ | ★★★ Not Named | 18m | |||||
Ringlock school is in
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Mon 29th Apr 2024 - Indian Creek Canyon | |||||||
Along Road 211 Donnelly Canyon | |||||||
5.10 | ★ The Thing | 24m | |||||
Gruntier than expected. A frog esque route to start the creek career
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5.10a | ★★ Chocolate Corner | 18m | |||||
Rattly 1s
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Mon 29th Apr 2024 - Indian Creek Canyon | |||||||
Along Road 211 Supercrack Buttress | |||||||
5.10 | ★★★ Keyhole Flakes | 21m | |||||
Techy flake sections on the bottom and top schooled me,#3 splitter in the middle was the goods though. Maybe one of the best trad single pitches I've ever done?
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Fri 19th Apr 2024 - Indian Creek Canyon | |||||||
Along Road 211 Blue Gramma Cliff | |||||||
5.9 | ★ Unnamed 9+ | 15m | ★ Good | ||||
Cupped hands corner crack with good feet. Made for a stiff warm up
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5.11 Hard | ★★★ Blue Gramma | 24m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Had to fight super hard to get up this. Slab finger crack that just gets steeper and steeper. My proudest trad ascent to date
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5.10b | ★★ Petrelli Motors | 16m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Great slab finger crack to a bulge
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Thu 18th Apr 2024 - Indian Creek Canyon | |||||||
Along Road 211 Supercrack Buttress | |||||||
5.10 | ★ Bongo Flake | 27m | ★ Good | ||||
The extension to Twin Cracks. Quite sport climbing in terms of movement along the flake with large gear
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5.8 | ★★ Twin Cracks | 12m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Bomber jamming and good stances to place gear
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5.11 | ★★ Wild Works of Fire | ★★ Very Good | |||||
This kicked my butt a bit, thought it was 5.10. Just didn't understand how to move through the upper section
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Thu 18th Apr 2024 - Indian Creek Canyon | |||||||
Along Road 211 Donnelly Canyon | |||||||
5.10b | ★★★ Owl Crack | 24m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Pleased with this route. Slowly starting to understand crack climbing
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5.10b | ★★★ Owl Crack | 24m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Pumped out just before the #2 hands bulge
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5.9 | ★★ Binou's Crack | 16m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
So many options for jam sizes. From fingers to thigh locks
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Tue 9th Apr 2024 - Indian Creek Canyon | |||||||
Along Road 211 Battle of the Bulge Buttress | |||||||
5.11a | ★★★ Cave Route - with Ayla, Jacques Beaudoin | ★★★ Classic | |||||
Tue 9th Apr 2024 - Indian Creek Canyon | |||||||
Along Road 211 Donnelly Canyon | |||||||
5.9 | ★★★ Generic Crack - with Amelie Beaudoin, Jacques Beaudoin | 33m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Tue 9th Apr 2024 - Indian Creek Canyon | |||||||
Along Road 211 Battle of the Bulge Buttress | |||||||
5.12c | ★★★ Digital Readout - with Amelie Beaudoin, Jacques Beaudoin | 15m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Fourth shot
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5.11a | ★★★ Cave Route - with Amelie Beaudoin, Jacques Beaudoin | ★★★ Classic | |||||
Mon 8th Apr 2024 - Indian Creek Canyon | |||||||
Along Road 211 Blue Gramma Cliff | |||||||
5.10b | ★★ Petrelli Motors - with Amelie Beaudoin, Jacques Beaudoin | 16m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
5.11 | ★★★ Blue Gramma - with Amelie Beaudoin, Jacques Beaudoin | 24m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
5.10d | ★★ Unnamed 4 - with Amelie Beaudoin, Jacques Beaudoin | 16m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
5.10b | ★★ Petrelli Motors - with Jacques Beaudoin, Ayla | 16m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
5.11 | ★★★ Blue Gramma - with Jacques Beaudoin, Ayla | 24m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
5.10d | ★★ Unnamed 4 - with Jacques Beaudoin, Ayla | 16m | ★ Good | ||||
Sun 7th Apr 2024 - Indian Creek Canyon | |||||||
Along Beef Basin Road Way Rambo | |||||||
5.12 | ★★★ WAY RAMBO - with Amelie Beaudoin, Jacques Beaudoin | 30m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
5.9 | ★★ Rochambeau - with Amelie Beaudoin, Jacques Beaudoin | 23m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
5.10 | ★★★ Blue Sun - with Amelie Beaudoin, Jacques Beaudoin | 20m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
5.12 | ★★★ WAY RAMBO - with Ayla, Jacques Beaudoin | 30m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
5.9 | ★★ Rochambeau - with Ayla, Jacques Beaudoin | 23m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
5.10 | ★★★ Blue Sun - with Ayla, Jacques Beaudoin | 20m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Thu 4th Apr 2024 - Indian Creek Canyon | |||||||
Along Road 211 Donnelly Canyon | |||||||
5.10a | ★★ The Drainpipe - with Amelie Beaudoin, Ayla | ★★ Very Good | |||||
Really sustained and hard for the grade.
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5.11d | ★★★ Dos Hermanos - with Amelie Beaudoin, Ayla | 29m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Repeat, really really good climbing
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Tue 2nd Apr 2024 - Indian Creek Canyon | |||||||
Along Road 211 Battle of the Bulge Buttress | |||||||
5.10b | ★★ Railroad Tracks - with Amelie Beaudoin, Jacques Beaudoin | 15m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
5.12c | ★★★ Digital Readout - with Jacques Beaudoin, Ayla | 15m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
5.10b | ★★ Railroad Tracks - with Jacques Beaudoin, Ayla | 15m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
5.12c | ★★★ Digital Readout - with Amelie Beaudoin, Ayla | 15m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Mon 1st Apr 2024 - Indian Creek Canyon | |||||||
Along Road 211 Battle of the Bulge Buttress | |||||||
5.12b | ★★★ Swedin-Ringle Route - with Jacques Beaudoin, Amelie Beaudoin | ★★★ Classic | |||||
Second shot, right start
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5.12b | ★★★ Swedin-Ringle Route - with Ayla, Jacques Beaudoin | ★★★ Classic | |||||
Second shot, right start
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Sat 30th Mar 2024 - Indian Creek Canyon | |||||||
Along Road 211 Supercrack Buttress | |||||||
5.12a | ★★★ Coyne Crack - with Amelie Beaudoin, Ayla | ★★★ Classic | |||||
5.10 | ★★★ Incredible Hand Crack - with Amelie Beaudoin, Jacques Beaudoin | 30m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Pumpy very cupped hands in overhang!
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5.12a | ★★★ Coyne Crack - with Amelie Beaudoin, Jacques Beaudoin | ★★★ Classic | |||||
Fri 29th Mar 2024 - Indian Creek Canyon | |||||||
Along Beef Basin Road Sparks Wall | |||||||
5.10- | ★★★ Sparkling Zygote - with Amelie Beaudoin, Ayla | 18m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
5.9 | ★★ Skraps - with Amelie Beaudoin, Ayla | 21m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
5.11 | ★★★ Slings And Arrows - with Amelie Beaudoin, Ayla | 21m | |||||
Really struggled in the chimney
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5.10+ | ★★ Divide And Conquer - with Amelie Beaudoin, Ayla | 30m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Was pretty spicy with only one #4
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5.10 | ★★ Sparkling Gefilte Fish - with Amelie Beaudoin, Ayla | 18m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Fri 29th Mar 2024 - Indian Creek Canyon | |||||||
The Optimator | |||||||
5.10+ PG13 | ★★★ Hayutake - with Amelie Beaudoin, Ayla | 37m | |||||
Alzheimer onsight, super cool climbing
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5.10 | ★★ Neat - with Amelie Beaudoin, Ayla | 30m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Very neat indeed
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5.11+ | ★★★ Annunaki - with Amelie Beaudoin, Ayla | 15m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Failed the Alzheimer onsight slipping out anchor finger lock, went down easy second on pre-placed gear. I onsighted this 13 years ago I guess I'm getting old...
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5.11- | ★★ Soul Fire - with Amelie Beaudoin, Ayla | 24m | |||||
Mostly onsight
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Fri 29th Mar 2024 - Indian Creek Canyon | |||||||
Along Road 211 Supercrack Buttress | |||||||
5.12a | ★★★ Coyne Crack - with Ayla, Jacques Beaudoin | ★★★ Classic | |||||
Fri 29th Mar 2024 - Indian Creek Canyon | |||||||
Along Beef Basin Road Sparks Wall | |||||||
5.9 | ★★ Skraps - with Ayla, Jacques Beaudoin | 21m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
5.11 | ★★★ Slings And Arrows - with Ayla, Jacques Beaudoin | 21m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
5.9 | ★★ Skraps - with Amelie Beaudoin, Jacques Beaudoin | 21m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
5.11 | ★★★ Slings And Arrows - with Amelie Beaudoin, Jacques Beaudoin | 21m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Wed 27th Mar 2024 - Indian Creek Canyon | |||||||
The Optimator | |||||||
5.13- | ★★★ Optimator - with Amelie Beaudoin, Jacques Beaudoin | 34m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Four sits, did better than my dad...
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5.10+ PG13 | ★★★ Hayutake - with Amelie Beaudoin, Jacques Beaudoin | 37m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
5.10 | ★★ Neat - with Amelie Beaudoin, Jacques Beaudoin | 30m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Tue 26th Mar 2024 - Indian Creek Canyon | |||||||
Along Road 211 Scarface Wall | |||||||
5.10- | ★★★ Wavy Gravy - with Amelie Beaudoin, Jacques Beaudoin | 15m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
5.9 | American Psycho - with Amelie Beaudoin, Jacques Beaudoin | 15m | Average | ||||
5.10- | ★★★ Wavy Gravy - with Ayla, Jacques Beaudoin | 15m | |||||
5.9 | American Psycho - with Ayla, Jacques Beaudoin | 15m | Average | ||||
5.11 | ★★ The Sicilian - with Ayla, Amelie Beaudoin | 15m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Mon 25th Mar 2024 - Indian Creek Canyon | |||||||
Along Road 211 Optimator Wall | |||||||
5.11- | ★★★ Soul Fire - with Amelie Beaudoin, Jacques Beaudoin | 27m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Pre-placed gear with otherwise near onsight beta, shuffling up the only #1 left in our rack, was a true battle
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Sun 24th Mar 2024 - Indian Creek Canyon | |||||||
Along Road 211 Donnelly Canyon | |||||||
5.10- | ★★ Elephant Man Pitch 1 | 24m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Sat 23rd Mar 2024 - Indian Creek Canyon | |||||||
Along Road 211 Donnelly Canyon | |||||||
5.10- | ★★ Elephant Man Pitch 1 - with Amelie Beaudoin, Jacques Beaudoin | 24m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Thu 21st Mar 2024 - Indian Creek Canyon | |||||||
Along Beef Basin Road Sparks Wall | |||||||
5.10- | ★★★ Sparkling Zygote - with Jacques Beaudoin, Ayla | 18m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Thu 21st Mar 2024 - Indian Creek Canyon | |||||||
Along Road 211 Donnelly Canyon | |||||||
5.10a | ★★ Chocolate Corner - with Jacques Beaudoin, Ayla | 18m | |||||
5.9 | ★★ Binou's Crack - with Jacques Beaudoin, Ayla | 16m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
5.9 | ★ The Naked and the Dead - with Jacques Beaudoin, Ayla | 45m |