Ascents in Quail Springs having Beta

short, bad fall zone

Short and easy. Ask your belayer to climb to the ledge or you would have an extremely bad landing zone in case of falling.

Very nice and easy trad route. No crack climbing skills required . Felt safe, very good as a first trad only route.

HARD for 5.6!

Led all pitches! The downclimb is a trip -- first you friction slab 100 feet and then find a windy path to the right for a steep down hike/climb.

Only my second lead, the first being a 5.3, but it felt OK at the grade.

good route to learn trad leading

Most recent guide lists this as 5.4, which feels far more reasonable than 5.1. A good climb with decent gear.

Another not-too-hard JTree lead.

Beautiful anchor crack that accepts everything from a 2 down to small cams. I used 2 1s and 0.75s but there are definitely lots of options

My first trad lead 🙂 definitely climb over the gap between two boulders for a lovely constriction for 2 or 3s for anchor and easy walk off

Tricky start.

downclimb

Laps and more laps!

Unclear exactly where it starts... I may have made it more difficult by starting further right, almost on the face.

Tricky, until it worked. Pulling off the ground is the crux.

downclimb

Good climbing, but the rock is still crumbling off in some places. A foothold came off in my second try, so I needed to change my beta (I think it became slightly harder) for a third go.

pfft. 11a.

Awkward

fun and sustained

elegant line

a funny climb!

has an actual 5.6 move on it.

Had seconded this route years ago. Well-named: balancey and fun.

Did not like the step out with marginal pro, but the move wasn't hard.

Lead on Carol's already-placed gear. So, guess that's a pink point.

Not sure if this is the route as the name is redacted on MP from my history

I thought this was a 5.0?

Basically three cool boulder problems

Nice and easy trad route

very technical balance problem

Amazing little toe steps.

Fun route

Really fun tiptoeing up the tiny crystal line up the face

Went smoothly and quickly on TR -- a fun route with good moves.

Would have been fun to lead

Got to 2nd this one. Went smoothly and easily, because I was following rather than leading, though it was at the end of the day.

Latest guide rates this as 5.4.

Adra led.

quite hard moves. Did not climb to the top since it felt hard and had some issues with my fingers that I did not want to make worse. It has quite some sharp crimps

first time I tried anything of this grade outside, and last time for a longggg time. I remember really struggling with this mono pocket thing

too wet, used bolts to pass 2 cruxes

First ever climb at JTree, thought I was getting on a 5.4, found this to be a very stiff 5.4. Took one rest on gear, otherwise good.

Climb takes decent gear, though the boulder problem to the first ledge was a bit tricky with a rack on.

Managed to get into the stemming position but can't work out how to get high enough to top out!

This is a very good problem. Come back to it. I was able to go to the left arete, but no further.

hmm...

I couldn't quite mantel onto the slab above. As usual, my first attempt was my best.

Very nice problem. Come back for this one.

Half-hearted attempt