Ascents in The Real Hidden Valley Area having Beta

Brilliant route, it's what climbing is all about. Long and sustained excellent fun

As primarily a sport climber, I managed (TR-onsighted) the start but got extremely pumped in the crack section above (or couldn't get rid of the pump that the start gave me). This route might be nice to climb if you have good crack technique and also if you are less tired than we were at the end of a long day in JTree. Took me three hangs to get to the top.

I found the start hard to protect -- yes, the pods are there, but the individual moves are like a V2/V3 boulder problem, and it would be tough to plug in gear at that moment. Decking potential for sure.

3rd ever trad lead and my favourite route so far in the park. Amazing crack with some mandatory jamming, but many face holds nonetheless. Extremely well-protected, beautiful line and great summit views.

Did two tries in toprope for checking out the beta after not getting to the top in lead. Very nice route. Beta for reference (in German) :

Über der dritten Exe an guten Griff rechts doppeln, links hochstehen auf linken schwarzen tritt, rechts höher stehen und links an guten Griff ziehen (schmale Kante). Weiter oben an Riss links rausstehen auf reibung, an Riss höher arbeitenz Dann rechts auf guten Griff stehen. Rechts hochgreifen in sehr kleinen teil Des rises, links höher stehen auf reibung und rechts in guten Griff , der ist auch ein untergriff. Links dazu und Dann mit rechts hochstehen auf fläche großen tritt. Rechts weiter an kleineren Griff Dann links hand in untergriff klemmen, links und rechts hochstehen, links ist der tritt weiß und leicht rausgebrochen, rechts schwarz und Klein. Rechts kreuzen an Henkel. Dann linken fuß in den Riss Stellen, rechts leicht auf reibung toe hooken und links an guten Henkel. Links weit hochstehen auf kleinen weißen tritt Dann mit rechts weit hochgreifen an schlechte Leiste. Rechten fuß auf kleine abgebrochene weiße Leiste. Von unten sieht man dass der tritt zwischen zwei schwarzen teilen der wand ist. Linker fuß auf seitlichen schwarzen tritt. Linke hand in Seitgriff. Rechter fuß etwas neben den linken, linker fuß hoch auf linken guten Griff von vorher. rechts hochgreifen an guten clip Griff. Dann überkreuz an den Griff kurz drüber ziehen, rechte hand dazu. Links auf den rechten richtig guten tritt, rechts etwas höher auf kleinen schwarzen tritt, leicht eingedreht. Dann rechts hoch an leiste. Links etwas hochstehen und mit links kurz Zwischengreifen an kleine schlechte leiste, Dann verlängern an gute.

First did one try in toprope. Before leading attempt. Beta for reference (in German): Unten an Riss, linke hand in Seitgriff weit links. Rechte hand an mittigen Seitgriff auf schulter nehmen. Dann fuß auf den tritt unter gutem Seitgriff (man könnte da auch hooken).

An schlüsselstelle rechten fuß rechts rausstellen, linken fuß mittig, Dann eingedreht an rechte Leiste mit links hochgreifen. Dann rechts an rechte angechalkte seitleiste. Dann links etwas weiter hochstehen auf rechter seite und rechts weit hoch auf tritt rechts außen. Dann links hoch auf tritt weit links außen und rechts an guten Griff verlängern (langsam hochtasten und Dann festhalten mit daumen oben) . Über schlüsselstelle rechts in seitleiste Dann gut stehen mittig und links in guten Seitgriff mit links hochgreifen. Dann rechts nach oben verlängern in besseren Seitgriff.

Very nice route. Want to try again if I am ever back in Joshua tree. The first bolt is quite high, but can be protected with nuts in the small finger crack below. Still I was super scared before reaching first bolt, since I was close to falling before clipping. there is a good ledge/jug for clipping, but only one foothold on the right (very high up).

First bolt is very high and also it is not easy until the first bolt, would not do it in lead. Very tiny crimps on crux moves. Did not do one move above the belly of the first quickdraw, hard and too painful for fingers.

Very nice route. Tried in lead once, but finding out the beta after the third bolt was too hard in lead for me, because I fell every time in the crack below the small belly. Two tries after that in toprope.

Fingers still hurt and my beta probably isn't optimal, one move is definitely far and doesn't succeed every time.

The first bolt is quite high, and it's also already quite difficult - fortunately, there were some other bolts on the left, which allowed me to try the first part with the first bolt clipped already (this is actually a well-protected sport route apart from the first bolt). Overhanging endurance route on mostly good holds. Climbed it with two rests in the second go, the first of which was unnecessary (took the wrong hold). The fingers still hurt quite a bit from yesterday and we only had 2 hours, so I couldn't do more than 2 tries. Definitely doable within a few more tries.

Bolts are a bit rusty, but they held all my falls, some from more than a meter above the quickdraws. The crux is a single, far move to get to a hold next to the third bolt (at least the way I climbed the route). Nice climbing in the last third of the route on jugs in a vertical face.

A bit scary to get to the first bolt (this is actually a sport route), before which I could only place a small cam relatively low. The crux is to get from the first to the second bolt on small and very sharp edges. In the end, I went to the good sidepull with the left and matched it with the right, holding the tension to avoid turning out of the wall. On the first try, leading the route, I skipped some moves and focused on getting up somehow. In the second toprope attempt, I had to rest in three places: twice because my fingers hurt so much from the sharp edges and once to figure out the last part of the crux.

Too hard for warming up and while putting the quickdraws, but on my next attempt, I climbed in the sun and it was much warmer than two days ago, making the route much easier for me.

One try to check all the moves, which were all doable. However, to put them together is another story, this would probably have been a week-long project. A lot of endurance on small holds necessary. The moves were quite cool. The rock was glued in some places, one hold was even glued back on after having come off at some point.

Excellent overhanging sport route. Good holds in the lower part and up a crack, then the most difficult part: a face climb on small holds, which are also a little sharp. It got quite windy on my second try and I was just too cold to climb the route. Third and fourth try were still cold but at least not windy. Fell at the absolute last hard move because my right hand slipped off the hold.

Climbed as a 3. I led the second pitch

What a wonderful route. It keeps giving all the way to the top. Great rock, great pro and great moves.

Looks like a hold has broken below the first bolt, making the first bulge a lot more difficult than 5.9. I have 4 tries at this and I know I can climb 5.9 on-sight.

Why oh why did i leave it till my last day. So much fun. My onsight ended fairly quickly and then i did it with two hangs on TR. A truly brilliant rock climb and one I will no doubt come back for. Bring on Cold Trip 2020!! (x3)

Seconding Mary Grace on her super proud onsight. Such a glorious glorious rock climb.

Fun little route! Windy!

Fun route! Proud to onsight.

Brilliant easy finger and hand crack. Totally sublime.

I think this is the route we did but i’m definitely not sure. Quite fun

Seconding Britney. Marvellous route but it was oh so cold and I couldn’t muster the try hard for the very tricky crux down low. I did everything else with good linkage.

Tried and tried and tried but I suck at dynos.

Awesome steep and varied crack climbing, probably quite hard for the grade.

Good, interesting crack and face climbing. Very windy. Soft for the grade.

Peer pressured into tying in and the slightly warmer weather saw me clipping the anchors quite comfortably. A great route!

More classic, run-out J-Tree slabbing. Gets 10a in the guide.

A great slab.

A very hard slab.

Three shots. Brilliant, powerful crimping.

N.W.Arete (11)

Turtle Face Left (12)