Another JTree classic, and deservedly so. Feels quite a bit harder than Sail Away 5.8-, the jams are mandatory and the stemming never felt super secure for me -- but I was tired from climbing the day before.
There are some absolutely bomber hand jams on this, not to miss! The downclimb is a little involved, rap bolts couldn't hurt here but it's probably heresy to even suggest that...
I did the route with aid clibing, sitting in the rope and in toprope . But also in toprope removing the cams is quite hard and you would fall to the next cam after removing one, since it is a roof. Did not do the moves when going into the roof and also in the finger crack above the roof I could not do the jam and had to pull on a cam. I can only imagine that the moves might be nice. Very hard, especially if you are not used to crack climbing. Of course I cannot say for sure that it is harder than 5.11c, but certainly it felt for me that way.
90° overhanging roof of about 5 meters with a hand crack and then a vertical finger crack after the lip, trad apart from a bolted anchor. It was a bit hard to try the moves while also having to put in the cams, so I mostly aided the roof. Jam technique, particularly for the feet, was also definitely lacking. Then, there is a really good kneebar before some more hard moves until your feet are above the lip.
The move to get off the deck on this was truly one of the hardest I pulled in Joshua Tree. Completely insane, especially if you are short. After this sure it’s 10+ ish to the top but it is undeniably a colossal sand bag at 10c for that first move.
Very very R. A fall from the incredibly sandbagged crux move pulling through the roof would be terrible, I was happy to be on second for it. Zack ended up building a belay due to rope drag and I did an unprotected second pitch of friction to the anchors. Tobin Sorensen was a mad man.
There are some absolutely bomber hand jams on this, not to miss! The downclimb is a little involved, rap bolts couldn't hurt here but it's probably heresy to even suggest that...