Grade | Route | Gear style | Crag | Quality | Climber | Date | |||
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5.7 | ★★ Toe Jam - with Dave Burt | 20m | Joshua Tree National Park | ★★ Very Good | Fri 5th May 2023 | ||||
Another line that demands to be climbed
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5.7 | ★★ Toe Jam - with Jeff D | 20m | Joshua Tree National Park | ★ Good | Sat 6th May 2023 | ||||
Warm-up for the day.
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5.7 | ★ Tiptoe | 3 | Joshua Tree National Park | Tue 14th Nov 2023 | |||||
Really fun tiptoeing up the tiny crystal line up the face
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5.6 | ★ Duchess | Joshua Tree National Park | ★★ Very Good | Mon 20th Mar 2006 | |||||
Really nice climb
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5.6 | Notch Route | Joshua Tree National Park | Average | Sat 10th Apr 2004 | |||||
1st day climbing outside
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5.6 | ★ Solar Technology | 15m | Joshua Tree National Park | ★★ Very Good | Mon 7th Nov 2005 | ||||
w/Boojum Folks
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5.6 | ★ Diagnostics | Joshua Tree National Park | ★★★ Classic | Wed 20th Apr 2005 | |||||
great crack/dihedral--one of my faves at JT
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5.6 | ★ Who's First | Joshua Tree National Park | ★ Good | Mon 31st May 2004 | |||||
good warm up
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5.6 | ★★★ SW Corner | 12m | Joshua Tree National Park | ★★★ Classic | Sat 10th Sep 2005 | ||||
way cool
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5.6 | Picnic | Joshua Tree National Park | Average | Wed 24th Nov 2004 | |||||
We used this climb as an approach to Kundalini Linguini Weenie which my partner led but I didn't complete.
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5.6 | ★★ Fote Hog | 40m | Joshua Tree National Park | ★★ Very Good | Mon 3rd Oct 2005 | ||||
A fun route with lots of variety and a bit of exposure.
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5.6 | ★ Diagnostics | Joshua Tree National Park | ★★ Very Good | Fri 25th Mar 2005 | |||||
Tough start
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5.6 | ★★★ SW Corner | 12m | Joshua Tree National Park | ★★★ Classic | Wed 16th Mar 2005 | ||||
Great exposure right from the start. A really fun climb.
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5.6 | ★ Solar Technology | 15m | Joshua Tree National Park | ★★ Very Good | Sat 26th Mar 2005 | ||||
Nice
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5.6 | ★ Karpkwitz | 9m | Joshua Tree National Park | ★★ Very Good | Mon 17th Dec 2012 | ||||
Went smoothly and quickly on TR -- a fun route with good moves.
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5.6 | ★ Solar Technology - with helen Cooper | 15m | Joshua Tree National Park | ★★ Very Good | Thu 14th Jan 2016 | ||||
tr'd it to clean th anchors.
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5.6 | ★ Finding My Balance | 7 | Joshua Tree National Park | Average | Fri 13th Mar 2020 | ||||
easy
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5.6 | ★ Duchess | Joshua Tree National Park | Sun 15th Mar 2020 | ||||||
I wouldn't want to lead it, but it was fun/interesting and pretty easy
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5.6 | ★ Mike's Books - with Dave Burt | 49m | Joshua Tree National Park | ★★ Very Good | Fri 5th May 2023 | ||||
The first few metres is the best part. The rest of it was also excellent
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5.6 | ★ West Chimney | 46m | Joshua Tree National Park | ★★★ Classic | Mon 25th Dec 2023 | ||||
A kinda trickier start, but gives way to some wonderfully frictiony stemming. Good gear throughout. Topped out by going through the tiny cave at the top, pretty interesting manoeuvres. Not too hard, lot of fun.
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5.5 | ★ Men With Cow's Heads | 50m | Joshua Tree National Park | ★ Good | Sun 6th Nov 2005 | ||||
Good lead practice.
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5.5 | Wilson Regular Route | 61m | Joshua Tree National Park | Average | Sun 19th Mar 2017 | ||||
First pitch has really fun, easy climbing with a good mix of face and crack. The second pitch is full of large blocks you can easily pull down on your friends and bad pro options. Be careful. The grade is easy but the danger is potentially high.
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5.5 |
Blistering
1
| Joshua Tree National Park | ★ Good | Sun 26th May 2019 | |||||
Second attempt on top-rope followed the route shown in Vogel book
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5.4 | ★ Walkway | Joshua Tree National Park | ★★ Very Good | Sat 18th Mar 2006 | |||||
Would have been fun to lead
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5.4 | ★ Duchess Left | Joshua Tree National Park | ★★★ Classic | Mon 20th Mar 2006 | |||||
Don't get sucked into corner low. Stem!
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5.4 | ★★ The Bong | 18m | Joshua Tree National Park | ★ Good | Sun 6th Mar 2005 | ||||
best approach from NW side
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5.4 | Nectar | 17m | Joshua Tree National Park | Average | Sat 14th Mar 2020 | ||||
OMG I hate crack. no falls but feet got stuck a lot
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5.3 | ★ Double Crack | 12m | Joshua Tree National Park | ★★ Very Good | Sun 19th Mar 2006 | ||||
Hard for the grade...
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5.3 | B-2 | 12m | Joshua Tree National Park | ★ Good | Mon 17th Dec 2012 | ||||
Got to 2nd this one. Went smoothly and easily, because I was following rather than leading, though it was at the end of the day.
Latest guide rates this as 5.4. |
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5.5 | ★ Beginner's Two | 64m | Joshua Tree National Park | Average | Wed 19th Dec 2012 | ||||
Mostly not too difficult, though off-width grunty, but with a couple crux sections that played at a lot harder than 5.3.
Also, be prepared the "walk off" is scarier than leading this climb. |
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5.3 | ★ B-1 - with Adra Lobdell | 12m | Joshua Tree National Park | Average | Sun 11th Mar 2012 | ||||
Adra led.
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5.3 | Shardik | Joshua Tree National Park | Average | Sat 25th May 2019 | |||||
First hold is loose. One of the bolt anchors is loose and chain link is cracked
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5.2 | ★ Scaramouch | Joshua Tree National Park | ★ Good | Sat 30th Oct 2004 | |||||
Big hairy spider scared me.
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5.2 | ★ Marchesa - with Zach, Bryce | Joshua Tree National Park | Sun 15th Mar 2020 | ||||||
Tiring but not very hard. Very awkward, chimney moves with some crimps, etc.
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5.12a | ★★ Where Sheep Sleep - with Fabian Michel | 11m, 4 | Joshua Tree National Park | Sat 11th Mar 2023 | |||||
quite hard moves. Did not climb to the top since it felt hard and had some issues with my fingers that I did not want to make worse. It has quite some sharp crimps
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5.14a | ★★ Dihedron - with Fann, Danny | 18m | Joshua Tree National Park | ★★ Very Good | Sun 19th Jan 2020 | ||||
Well it turns out this is the most difficult. I don’t really understand. That being said I did a lot more moves than i expected to, but the ones I couldn’t do I couldn’t even conceive. Wild.
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5.13d | ★★★ Stingray - with Fann, Danny | 27m | Joshua Tree National Park | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sun 19th Jan 2020 | ||||
Well it turns out this is very hard! Completely amazing steep finger crack climbing. I did all the moves bar two of the three main crux pulls (albeit probably with some rope assist. It’s probably solid 12+ with some very tricky moves to start you off. So stoked to have tried it and seen what all the fuss is about.
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5.13b | ★★ The Cutting Edge - with Fann, Ronnie, Greg | 15m, 4 | Joshua Tree National Park | ★★ Very Good | Mon 6th Jan 2020 | ||||
Well this is very hard. Managed all the moves up to the crux at the last bolt which is around V9 and very very reachy. Probably 12+ except for that sequence. Pretty rad.
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5.13a | ★★ Asteroid Crack - with Eric | 10m | Joshua Tree National Park | ★★ Very Good | Wed 22nd Jan 2020 | ||||
Very psyched to have tried this. I did quite well up to the crux but i couldn’t figure it out as a complete sequence. Rad intricate climbing the whole way though with a sequence that starts at the ground and doesn’t end until you’re standing on top.
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5.13a | ★★★ Desert Shield - with Klara R | Joshua Tree National Park | ★★★ Classic | Tue 7th Mar 2023 | |||||
One try to check all the moves, which were all doable. However, to put them together is another story, this would probably have been a week-long project. A lot of endurance on small holds necessary. The moves were quite cool. The rock was glued in some places, one hold was even glued back on after having come off at some point.
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5.12d | ★★★ Father Figure - with Fann, Danny | 15m | Joshua Tree National Park | ★★★ Classic | Sun 12th Jan 2020 | ||||
This was so so excellent. It’s just like a campus board. Probably a bit of a sand bag, especially if you’re short. My onsight ended at the crux but i did all the moves and had some really excellent linkage. I’ll be back one day for sure. Also the scene of us nearly getting beaten up due to other’s absurd machismo. Hilarious. (x3)
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5.12c 5.12c/d | ★★ Seizure - with Greg, Fann, Ronnie | 28m, 5 | Joshua Tree National Park | ★★★ Classic | Mon 6th Jan 2020 | ||||
A colossal sand bag but brilliant rock and an improbable line. I put in a fairly worthy onsight effort but was stumped by some very reachy and very very hard moves a bit above half way. Only the one go.
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5.12c | ★★★ Equinox - with Cedar | 20m | Joshua Tree National Park | ★★★ Mega Classic | Thu 9th Jan 2020 | ||||
This thing is completely all time! One of the absolute best pitches i’ve ever tried. On my second TR lap i managed to go from below the crux to the top, pumped out of my brains. Stellar climbing up a stellar line in a stellar location. (x2)
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5.12c | ★★★ Equinox - with Clay, Tom, Mary, Mason | 20m | Joshua Tree National Park | ★★★ Mega Classic | Wed 15th Jan 2020 | ||||
Progression and regression. This thing is properly hard! And quite sharp!!! (x2)
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5.12c | ★★★ Equinox - with Tom, Mary, Fann, Ronnie, Kat | 20m | Joshua Tree National Park | ★★★ Mega Classic | Fri 17th Jan 2020 | ||||
Another two burns and the usual somethings feel much better, somethings feel much worse. Very frustrating. It was nice to watch Tom and Fann both float it though.
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5.12c | ★★★ Equinox - with Fann, Ronnie | 20m | Joshua Tree National Park | ★★★ Mega Classic | Fri 24th Jan 2020 | ||||
Arghhh! Couldn’t pull it together. Not enough skin, not enough fitness, too much drive to climb other things. I shall return for you!
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5.12c | ★★ Baby Apes - with Prith, Brittany, Greg | 15m, 1 | Joshua Tree National Park | ★★ Very Good | Sun 26th Jan 2020 | ||||
This is really fucking cool and really fucking hard. Some heinous crack bouldering after the eponymous baby apes move makes for quite the sandbag i think. Prith added a direct start which was cool.
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5.12c/d | ★★★ Prime Real Estate — 2 attempts - with Klara R | 15m | Joshua Tree National Park | ★★★ Classic | Thu 9th Mar 2023 | ||||
The first bolt is quite high, and it's also already quite difficult - fortunately, there were some other bolts on the left, which allowed me to try the first part with the first bolt clipped already (this is actually a well-protected sport route apart from the first bolt). Overhanging endurance route on mostly good holds. Climbed it with two rests in the second go, the first of which was unnecessary (took the wrong hold). The fingers still hurt quite a bit from yesterday and we only had 2 hours, so I couldn't do more than 2 tries. Definitely doable within a few more tries.
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5.12b | ★★★ Satanic Mechanic - with Trinity, Danny, Zack, Fann, Ronnie, JT | 15m | Joshua Tree National Park | ★★★ Classic | Sat 28th Dec 2019 | ||||
Three shots. Brilliant, powerful crimping.
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5.12b | ★★★ Bikini Whale - with Britney, Prith, Josh | 25m | Joshua Tree National Park | ★★★ Classic | Thu 16th Jan 2020 | ||||
Seconding Britney. Marvellous route but it was oh so cold and I couldn’t muster the try hard for the very tricky crux down low. I did everything else with good linkage.
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5.12a | ★★ Sow Sickle | 30m, 5 | Joshua Tree National Park | Mon 27th Jan 2020 | |||||
If this is the climb I think it is then it is 12a not 11d.
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5.12a | ★★ Sow Sickle - with Fann, Ronnie | 30m, 5 | Joshua Tree National Park | ★★★ Classic | Sat 25th Jan 2020 | ||||
Probably the hardest 12a I have ever tried, it definitely the hardest move I have ever done on a 12a. I rapped over it to equip it and then tried to flash it but came up short on the crux. Figured out the move on top rope afterwards.I think it might be easier if you’re tall but at least 5.14 Fann validated my struggle.
Afterwards I got to go back to camp and hear that Prith had sent Stingray which is one of the coolest things ever. So psyched!! |
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5.12a | ★★ Apartheid - with Prith, Greg, Brittany | 15m, 4 | Joshua Tree National Park | ★★ Very Good | Sun 26th Jan 2020 | ||||
Another catastrophic 12a sandbag, and with a very dangerous runout through the crux. Super funky moves though which require some good technique as much as some pull down. Worthy of being resurrected with a rebolt.
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5.12a | ★★★ Leave It To Beaver - with Mary Grace Stocker | 24m | Joshua Tree National Park | ★★★ Classic | Thu 30th Jan 2020 | ||||
Why oh why did i leave it till my last day. So much fun. My onsight ended fairly quickly and then i did it with two hangs on TR. A truly brilliant rock climb and one I will no doubt come back for. Bring on Cold Trip 2020!! (x3)
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5.12a | ★★ Rap Bolters Are Weak — 2 attempts - with Klara R | Joshua Tree National Park | ★★ Very Good | Wed 8th Mar 2023 | |||||
A bit scary to get to the first bolt (this is actually a sport route), before which I could only place a small cam relatively low. The crux is to get from the first to the second bolt on small and very sharp edges. In the end, I went to the good sidepull with the left and matched it with the right, holding the tension to avoid turning out of the wall. On the first try, leading the route, I skipped some moves and focused on getting up somehow. In the second toprope attempt, I had to rest in three places: twice because my fingers hurt so much from the sharp edges and once to figure out the last part of the crux.
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5.12a | ★★ Tic Tic Boom - with Klara R | Joshua Tree National Park | ★★ Very Good | Thu 9th Mar 2023 | |||||
Fingers still hurt and my beta probably isn't optimal, one move is definitely far and doesn't succeed every time.
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5.12a | ★★ Tic Tic Boom - with Fabian Michel | Joshua Tree National Park | ★★★ Classic | Sat 11th Mar 2023 | |||||
Very nice route. Want to try again if I am ever back in Joshua tree. The first bolt is quite high, but can be protected with nuts in the small finger crack below. Still I was super scared before reaching first bolt, since I was close to falling before clipping. there is a good ledge/jug for clipping, but only one foothold on the right (very high up).
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5.11c | ★★★ Wangerbanger | 18m | Joshua Tree National Park | ★★ Very Good | Thu 2nd May 2002 | ||||
A line that just sucks you onto it!
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5.11c | ★★★ Hot Rocks - with Luon, Jack, Zack, Dylan | 25m, 1 | Joshua Tree National Park | ★★★ Classic | Mon 30th Dec 2019 | ||||
The coldest of the cold, even our portable heater couldn’t save us. Radical climbing!
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5.11c | ★★★ Hot Rocks - with Trinity Robinson | 25m, 1 | Joshua Tree National Park | ★★★ Classic | Sat 11th Jan 2020 | ||||
A pleasant evening on this. Figured out the crux properly this time.
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5.11b | ★★★ Coarse and Buggy - with Will Vidler | 25m | Joshua Tree National Park | Mon 27th Jan 2020 | |||||
Figuring out climb to lead next time.
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5.11b | ★★★ Coarse and Buggy - with Will Vidler | 25m | Joshua Tree National Park | Thu 30th Jan 2020 | |||||
Lead and fall at top.
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5.11a | ★★★ Left Ski Track | 46m | Joshua Tree National Park | ★★★ Classic | Tue 3rd Nov 2015 | ||||
So pumpy at the bottom and then glory to the top.
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5.11a | ★★★ Heart of Darkness - with Will Vidler | 10m | Joshua Tree National Park | ★★★ Classic | Tue 28th Jan 2020 | ||||
Fell on the onsight at the last move poooo
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5.11a | ★★ Alf's Arete - with Klara R | 26m, 7 | Joshua Tree National Park | ★★★ Classic | Thu 2nd Mar 2023 | ||||
Really nice arête and slab climb with few features in some places. It took me a few tries to figure out the crux. Strange climbing, I felt insecure in many places.
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5.11a | ★ History | 9m | Joshua Tree National Park | Mon 27th May 2013 | |||||
first time I tried anything of this grade outside, and last time for a longggg time. I remember really struggling with this mono pocket thing
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5.10d | ★★ The Importance of Being Earnest | Joshua Tree National Park | ★★★ Classic | Sat 17th Dec 2005 | |||||
Glad I didn't try and onsite this one. Definately deserves the 'R' rating.
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5.10d | ★★ Hobbit Roof | Joshua Tree National Park | ★ Good | Wed 17th Feb 2016 | |||||
impossible slab followed by chillaxed roof.
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5.10c | ★★ Lewd and Lascivious Conduct | Joshua Tree National Park | ★★ Very Good | Mon 18th Apr 2005 | |||||
Top rope or Huge risky runout
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5.10c | ★★ Creemony | Joshua Tree National Park | ★★ Very Good | Sun 6th Nov 2005 | |||||
Thin to a sinker finger lock, then 8-ish to the top.
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5.10c | ★ Canalizo | Joshua Tree National Park | ★★ Very Good | Sat 5th Nov 2005 | |||||
Well-placed bolts -- better to lead than TR. TR anchor set-up is awkward and hard to make safe.
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5.10c | ★★ Creemony | Joshua Tree National Park | ★ Good | Thu 17th Mar 2005 | |||||
only 5.10 to first bolt, very easy afterwards
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5.10c | ★ Personal Space | Joshua Tree National Park | Tue 1st Nov 2005 | ||||||
w/OB'ers
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5.10c | ★★ Creemony | Joshua Tree National Park | Mon 7th Nov 2005 | ||||||
w/ Boojum Folks
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5.10c | ★★ Lewd and Lascivious Conduct | Joshua Tree National Park | ★★ Very Good | Sat 3rd Oct 2015 | |||||
One hang! My does that crack get thin and technical for a bit.
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5.10b | ★★ Third Time's A Charm | 60m | Joshua Tree National Park | ★ Good | Sat 17th Jun 2000 | ||||
Took a nasty whipper. Great Climb
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5.10b | ★★★ Illusion Dweller (Illusion Dweller (Candy-Colored Tangerine Flake Stremlined Baby)) | 30m | Joshua Tree National Park | ★★★ Classic | Tue 20th Jan 2009 | ||||
whipped off the top tip and landed on the ledge. whoa
fantastic climb though!
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5.10b | ★★ Papa Woolsey | 18m, 6 | Joshua Tree National Park | ★★ Very Good | Mon 28th Mar 2005 | ||||
Tough climb
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5.10b | ★★★ Illusion Dweller (Illusion Dweller (Candy-Colored Tangerine Flake Stremlined Baby)) | 30m | Joshua Tree National Park | ★★★ Classic | Tue 20th Jan 2009 | ||||
whipped off the upper lip and hit the ledge! whoa.
fantastic stuff though.
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5.10b | ★★ Papa Woolsey | 18m, 6 | Joshua Tree National Park | ★★ Very Good | Fri 19th Apr 2013 | ||||
Fell a couple of times. Really nice once I figured out the moves.
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5.10b | ★★★ Poodles Are People Too | Joshua Tree National Park | ★★★ Classic | Mon 4th Nov 2013 | |||||
Fell once down low pulled on a few pieces up high. Sloppy but I'll come back and get it clean! Great route though it felt somewhat run out in the middle section (albeit on fairly moderate terrain).
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5.10b | ★★★ Illusion Dweller (Illusion Dweller (Candy-Colored Tangerine Flake Stremlined Baby)) | 30m | Joshua Tree National Park | ★★★ Classic | Sun 27th Oct 2013 | ||||
I fell at the top trying to pull the roof. I eventually figured out what to do and pulled through. I am excited to go back and try this one again.
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5.10b | ★★★ Illusion Dweller (Illusion Dweller (Candy-Colored Tangerine Flake Stremlined Baby)) | 30m | Joshua Tree National Park | ★★★ Classic | Mon 28th Oct 2013 | ||||
Took the whip at the crux!
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5.10b | ★★ No Self Confidence | Joshua Tree National Park | ★★★ Classic | Mon 9th Dec 2013 | |||||
This was hard. Hand crack leads to overhung offwidth. 10b my ass.
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5.10b | ★★ Fisticuffs | 12m | Joshua Tree National Park | ★★★ Classic | Tue 29th Sep 2015 | ||||
Where the crack gets wider to rattly-hands and kicks-back is where I took several rests to get it.
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5.10b ~5.10c | ★★ Papa Woolsey | 18m, 6 | Joshua Tree National Park | ★★ Very Good | Wed 1st Mar 2023 | ||||
Nice, but feels harder than 5.10b. Very hard slab move at the bottom. Before first bolt you need to be brave. Built first traditional anchor at the top
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5.10a | ★ Profundity | 2 | Joshua Tree National Park | ★ Good | Tue 23rd Nov 2004 | ||||
too wet, used bolts to pass 2 cruxes
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5.10a | ★★ Prepackaged | 25m | Joshua Tree National Park | ★★ Very Good | Thu 27th Mar 2008 | ||||
Tricky finger crack
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5.10a | ★★★ Tax Man | 24m | Joshua Tree National Park | ★★★ Classic | Tue 12th Nov 2013 | ||||
Fantastic climb. Took a small fall and hung. Definitely a flailfest for me. Felt harder than the other 10a fingercracks I've done in the park.
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5.10a | ★★ The Orc | Joshua Tree National Park | ★ Good | Sat 13th Feb 2016 | |||||
Foot popped of half way and went for a ride...
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5.10a | Who Are You? | Joshua Tree National Park | Fri 13th Mar 2020 | ||||||
Thought this was Live at Leeds. In dark, with headlamps. Slab had no holds, just nubs that break off.
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5.9 | ★ Middle Peyote Crack | Joshua Tree National Park | ★★ Very Good | Tue 1st Mar 2005 | |||||
A grunt-fest.
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5.9 | ★ Addams Family | 30m | Joshua Tree National Park | ★ Good | Mon 4th Nov 2013 | ||||
Took a little fall getting into the crack after the low angle section above the bolt. I was climbing with someone else's rack, but I suspect this would have taken nuts really well... I just didn't have mine...
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5.9 | ★ (unknown crack) | 15m | Joshua Tree National Park | ★ Good | Tue 29th Sep 2015 | ||||
Peeled off in the bulge when a foot slipped. Tired, I think, because I should have got this.
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5.8 | ★★ Dogleg | 30m | Joshua Tree National Park | ★ Good | Thu 13th Jan 2005 | ||||
night climb
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5.8 | ★ Right Peyote Crack | Joshua Tree National Park | ★ Good | Tue 1st Mar 2005 | |||||
A grovelly groove.
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5.8 | ★ Cranny | 8m | Joshua Tree National Park | ★★ Very Good | Mon 17th Dec 2012 | ||||
First ever climb at JTree, thought I was getting on a 5.4, found this to be a very stiff 5.4. Took one rest on gear, otherwise good.
Climb takes decent gear, though the boulder problem to the first ledge was a bit tricky with a rack on. |
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5.8 | ★★ Cryptic | 12m | Joshua Tree National Park | ★★ Very Good | Mon 27th May 2019 | ||||
hung twice, dropped phone
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5.7 | ★★★ Double Cross | 30m | Joshua Tree National Park | ★★ Very Good | Wed 19th Oct 2005 | ||||
Pretty stiff for a 5.7 I thought.
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5.7 | ★★★ Double Cross | 30m | Joshua Tree National Park | ★★★ Classic | Fri 18th Mar 2005 | ||||
sustained, excellent climb
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