Grade | Route | Gear style | Crag | Quality | Climber | Date | |||
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5.6 |
★★★ Diamond In The Crack P1
1
2
| 37m | Red River Gorge | ★★★ Mega Classic | Mon 26th Sep 2022 | ||||
Hard approach
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5.4 | ★★★ Caver's Route | 46m | Red River Gorge | ★★★ Classic | Mon 26th Sep 2022 | ||||
Runout almost the entire route. What an adventure!
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5.10a | ★★ Dynabolt Gold | 21m | Red River Gorge | ★★★ Classic | Tue 27th Sep 2022 | ||||
1st 10a lead!
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5.6 | ★★ Eureka — 2 attempts | 26m, 8 | Red River Gorge | ★★★ Mega Classic | Tue 27th Sep 2022 | ||||
Spectacular moves, epic climb! Pure enjoyment going up. Did it twice just for the fun!
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5.12a | ★★★ Scar Tissue | 14m, 5 | Red River Gorge | Wed 9th Nov 2016 | |||||
Fell off with my face next to the anchors, twice! Devoted, but early days in the trip.
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5.10d | ★★ Jailbird | Red River Gorge | ★ Good | Wed 9th Nov 2016 | |||||
I forgot how to hold small holds on a slab, felt nails in the sun.
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5.11a | ★★ Injured Reserve | 18m, 5 | Red River Gorge | ★ Good | Wed 9th Nov 2016 | ||||
Grab the wrong hold at the crux,and there's not backing out. Fun.
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5.12a | ★★ Chainsaw Massacre | 18m, 7 | Red River Gorge | ★ Good | Wed 9th Nov 2016 | ||||
Not my favourite, and super pumpy with a bad rest at half height.
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5.12a | ★★ Burlier's Bane | 18m, 6 | Red River Gorge | ★★ Very Good | Wed 9th Nov 2016 | ||||
Lucky I guess.
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5.11a | ★★ Snapper | 15m, 7 | Red River Gorge | ★★ Very Good | Wed 9th Nov 2016 | ||||
Foot slip. Doh!
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5.10a | ★★ To Defy the Laws of Tradition | 18m, 7 | Red River Gorge | ★★★ Classic | Wed 9th Nov 2016 | ||||
Amazing climb for the grade
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5.12a | ★★★ Forearm Follies | 30m | Red River Gorge | ★★★ Mega Classic | Wed 9th Nov 2016 | ||||
Can be done as 2 routes. I whipped off the extension 2 bolts from the top. Best route I have gotten on, 35m.
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5.10c | ★★ In the Light | 17m | Red River Gorge | ★★ Very Good | Wed 9th Nov 2016 | ||||
Felt easier than the 5.9s
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5.10d | ★★ Dragonslayer | 15m | Red River Gorge | ★★ Very Good | Wed 9th Nov 2016 | ||||
Mono pockets on a 10D
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5.11d | ★★★ Ro Shampo | 18m | Red River Gorge | ★★★ Classic | Wed 9th Nov 2016 | ||||
Stuffed the crux sequence on my first shot. Sent second.
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5.11d | ★★★ The Return of Chris Snyder | 29m | Red River Gorge | ★★★ Mega Classic | Wed 9th Nov 2016 | ||||
Dream route, a fantastic voyage covering all types of styles. Super pumpy, second shot
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5.14d | ★★★ Pure Imagination | 23m, 9 | Red River Gorge | Tue 22nd Nov 2022 | |||||
2nd try
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5.14d | The Golden Ticket (Golden Ticket) | Red River Gorge | Mon 14th Nov 2022 | ||||||
One of the best in the red
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5.14c | ★★★ Lucifer | Red River Gorge | Thu 17th Nov 2022 | ||||||
3rd try
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5.14c | Twenty Four Karats (24 Karats) | 20m | Red River Gorge | Sun 20th Nov 2022 | |||||
One day ascent. Hard to find the holds without any chalk
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5.10d | ★★ Fog Horn | 11m, 4 | Red River Gorge | ★★ Very Good | Sat 23rd Oct 2021 | ||||
It’s pretty intense. I tried to stem the entire time.
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5.10a | ★★★ Holly Berry | 11m, 5 | Red River Gorge | ★★★ Classic | Sun 20th Jun 2021 | ||||
Warm up
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5.11d | ★★★ A Light In The Dark | 14m, 6 | Red River Gorge | ★★★ Classic | Sat 23rd Oct 2021 | ||||
Attempt 1. Really loved the route. It’s pretty easy for the grade.
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5.7 | ★ Pumpkin 3.14 | 15m, 6 | Red River Gorge | ★ Good | Sun 23rd May 2021 | ||||
Stuck right before anchor
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5.9 | ★★ First Date | 15m | Red River Gorge | Sat 4th Jul 2020 | |||||
alys first lead
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B 5.10 B - C | ★ The Beacon | 8m, 4 | Red River Gorge | ★ Good | Sat 23rd Oct 2021 | ||||
Couldn't figure out clip 1 and 2.
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5.11b | ★ Kracker Jack | 15m, 6 | Red River Gorge | ★ Good | Sat 8th May 2021 | ||||
Kinda poop
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5.10a | ★★ A Shadow in The Wind | 12m, 6 | Red River Gorge | ★★ Very Good | Sat 16th Oct 2021 | ||||
Missed the pinch at the anchors and fell
|
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5.10a | ★★ A Shadow in The Wind | 12m, 6 | Red River Gorge | ★★ Very Good | Sat 23rd Oct 2021 | ||||
sad
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5.7 | Harvey | 24m, 10 | Red River Gorge | ★ Good | Fri 11th Aug 2017 | ||||
The guide book does not mention it's a 2 pitch route. Kinda was forced to rappel for the first time to save my rope.
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5.10a | ★★ End of State Mainenance (End of State Maintenance) | 15m, 5 | Red River Gorge | ★★★ Classic | Sun 29th Jul 2018 | ||||
Hung on first and third bolt. Want to try again.
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5.4 | Acrophobiacs Anonymous | 8m, 3 | Red River Gorge | ★ Good | Sat 15th Jul 2017 | ||||
It's okay
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5.10c | ★ Don't Take Yer Guns to Town | 15m, 5 | Red River Gorge | Sun 16th Dec 2018 | |||||
Failed at roof want to redo route
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5.8 | ★ Mona Lisa Crack | 14m | Red River Gorge | ★★ Very Good | Thu 3rd Aug 2017 | ||||
It was a really solid route but would not suggest it after a rain.
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5.9 | ★ Tall Cool One | Red River Gorge | Sat 16th Dec 2017 | ||||||
Did with dalton awhile ago
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5.6 | ★★ Dragon's Mouth | 17m, 6 | Red River Gorge | ★★★ Classic | Sat 15th Jul 2017 | ||||
Awesome climb
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5.7 | Trundling Kentucky | 15m, 5 | Red River Gorge | ★ Good | Sat 12th Mar 2016 | ||||
First ever clean
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5.10b | ★★ Gettin' Lucky In Kentucky | 18m | Red River Gorge | Tue 19th Nov 2013 | |||||
Fun climb!!
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5.12a 5.11d | ★★ Manifest Destiny | 21m | Red River Gorge | ★★★ Classic | Thu 30th Aug 2007 | ||||
Awesome move at roof, then pump to the end. Someday I'll send it, but for now it's a lot of rests and frenching back to holds
|
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5.11b | ★★★ Fuzzy Undercling | 18m | Red River Gorge | ★★★ Classic | Sat 1st Sep 2007 | ||||
Early crux - probably stick clip. Fantastic climb, solid moves
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5.10b | ★★ You can tune a piano, but you can't tuna fish | 18m | Red River Gorge | ★ Good | Sat 1st Sep 2007 | ||||
Nice climb, requires a little route-finding
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5.9 | ★★ Creature Feature | 18m, 8 | Red River Gorge | Sat 1st Sep 2007 | |||||
fantastic night climb, near the road. Pull the roof with a big hold, and play all the way up to the top.
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5.10b | ★★ Gettin' Lucky In Kentucky | 18m | Red River Gorge | ★★★ Classic | Thu 30th Aug 2007 | ||||
Beautiful climb - moves are right where you need them to be, from the very first.
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5.10d | ★ Possum Lips | 12m | Red River Gorge | ★★ Very Good | Sat 1st Sep 2007 | ||||
About the closest thing to slab I saw at the red.
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5.10a | ★★★ Headstone Surfer - with Art, Leah, Colin | 27m | Red River Gorge | ★★★ Classic | Thu 28th Nov 2019 | ||||
First route in the Red and it’s a trad climb, oh yeahhh! A brilliant easy corner!!
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5.11c | ★★ There Goes The Neighborhood - with Art, Leah, Colin | 29m | Red River Gorge | ★★ Very Good | Thu 28th Nov 2019 | ||||
Stiff warm up and introduction to Red River pocket pulling. Awesome climb with a few tricky pulls
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5.12c | ★★★ Orange Juice - with Art, Leah, Colin | 29m | Red River Gorge | ★★★ Classic | Thu 28th Nov 2019 | ||||
Al class all the way. I didn’t have the mojo after my 20
hours in transit but this is a sensational line. Hopefully I’ll be back!
|
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5.11b | ★★ Hen-ry! - with Art, Christopher Glastonbury, Ashlee Hendy | 15m, 5 | Red River Gorge | ★ Good | Fri 29th Nov 2019 | ||||
Hard and really quite scary. I was kind of gripped. Worthwhile though.
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5.12b | ★★★ Infectious - with Art, Christopher Glastonbury, Ashlee Hendy | 15m, 4 | Red River Gorge | ★★★ Classic | Fri 29th Nov 2019 | ||||
Awesome tricky bouldering. Quite ‘ard.
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5.11d | ★★ Grumpalump - with Paul Frothy Thomson | 16m, 5 | Red River Gorge | ★★ Very Good | Sun 1st Dec 2019 | ||||
Really fun and really straight forward. Solid warm-up.
|
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5.12a 5.12b | ★★ Naked - with Paul Frothy Thomson | 15m, 6 | Red River Gorge | ★★ Very Good | Sun 1st Dec 2019 | ||||
Fun route but the top was very wet. Not worth coming back for.
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5.12a | ★★★ Snozzberries - with Paul Frothy Thomson | 27m, 8 | Red River Gorge | ★★★ Classic | Sun 1st Dec 2019 | ||||
No beta flash. A truly superb and fun climb linking
so many awesome and outrageous features. A joy. Borderline mega-classic. Maybe more like 11c though.
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5.10a | ★★ Wonkaholic - with Paul Frothy Thomson | 17m, 7 | Red River Gorge | ★★ Very Good | Sun 1st Dec 2019 | ||||
Great cruisy arete, reminded me of Arapiles.
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5.10c | ★★★ JewJew Fruit - with Paul Frothy Thomson | 23m, 8 | Red River Gorge | ★★ Very Good | Tue 3rd Dec 2019 | ||||
Decent warm up but not spectacular. The crack at the start was novel.
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5.11d | ★★ Breakfast at Koops - with Paul Frothy Thomson | 18m, 7 | Red River Gorge | ★★ Very Good | Tue 3rd Dec 2019 | ||||
Fairly tricky. Absolutely punted the last move on my second go which was unfortunate.
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5.11c | ★★★ Witness the Citrus - with Paul Frothy Thomson, Christopher Glastonbury, Ashlee Hendy | 29m, 12 | Red River Gorge | ★★★ Mega Classic | Tue 3rd Dec 2019 | ||||
Totally outrageous and completely brilliant for the grade. I was just warmed up enough that this route was a tenable objective, as the temperatures were truly suboptimal for any kind of climbing, but I’m so glad I jumped on. Pumpy all the way to the end and I just scraped through!
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5.12b | ★★ Fruit by the Foot - with Paul Frothy Thomson | 24m, 9 | Red River Gorge | ★★ Very Good | Tue 3rd Dec 2019 | ||||
Just bungled the flash when I missed a hold, pulled back on and straight to the top. Very unfortunate. Probably soft for the grade but fun nonetheless.
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5.11a | ★★ Air-Ride Equipped - with Paul Frothy Thomson | 20m, 7 | Red River Gorge | ★★ Very Good | Wed 4th Dec 2019 | ||||
Unlikely for the grade. Not super special but still very fun.
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5.11c | ★★★ Banshee - with Paul Frothy Thomson | 30m | Red River Gorge | ★★ Very Good | Wed 4th Dec 2019 | ||||
Borderline classic. The climbing above the hueco is superb but I found it a little bit tricky and ugly trying to get there. Still a brilliant route on beautiful rock though!
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5.12b | ★★★ Abiyoyo - with Paul Frothy Thomson, Ann Marie, Fernando Hernandez | 30m | Red River Gorge | ★★★ Classic | Wed 4th Dec 2019 | ||||
Very psyched to manage this. Awesome but cruxy climbing on beautiful, baked, golden sandstone. Just had to hold on for the ride.
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5.12b | ★★★ Super Best Friends - with Paul Frothy Thomson, Ann Marie, Fernando Hernandez | 28m | Red River Gorge | ★★★ Classic | Wed 4th Dec 2019 | ||||
My total anti-style so it was cool to manage to
top this one at the end of the day. First onsight at the grade but I think it’s probably a bit squishy. Stupidly outrageous jugs through the roof forever, so so much fun. I love rock climbing.
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5.11a | ★★ Injured Reserve - with Paul Frothy Thomson, Ashlee Hendy, Christopher Glastonbury | 18m, 5 | Red River Gorge | ★ Good | Thu 5th Dec 2019 | ||||
Absolutely nails move at the grade, especially in the cold. Poor warm up.
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5.12c | ★★★ Stain - with Paul Frothy Thomson, Ashlee Hendy, Christopher Glastonbury | 15m, 6 | Red River Gorge | ★★ Very Good | Thu 5th Dec 2019 | ||||
Great route, but oh soo cold. x2
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5.12b | ★★ Buff The Wood - with Paul Frothy Thomson, Ashlee Hendy, Christopher Glastonbury | 15m, 5 | Red River Gorge | ★★ Very Good | Thu 5th Dec 2019 | ||||
Not quite as good as it’s left hand neighbour but interesting nonetheless. Had a look EOD.
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5.12c | ★★★ Stain - with Paul Frothy Thomson, Ashlee Hendy, Christopher Glastonbury | 15m, 6 | Red River Gorge | ★★ Very Good | Sat 7th Dec 2019 | ||||
Came back after a rest day but couldn’t put it together. Ended up being too much of a struggle in the cold. Two days of climbing and no sends makes Will sad. x4
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5.12b | ★★ Ale-8-One - with Paul Frothy Thomson, Ashlee Hendy, Christopher Glastonbury | 20m, 7 | Red River Gorge | ★★★ Classic | Sat 7th Dec 2019 | ||||
Ridiculous at the grade and the opposite of my style! Not a good one to do at the end of the day!
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5.10d | ★★ Makin' Bacon - with Paul Frothy Thomson, Dan, Bryan | 12m, 5 | Red River Gorge | ★★ Very Good | Sun 8th Dec 2019 | ||||
Good and crimpy. Finally I didn’t fall off something!
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5.11c | ★★ Mid-Life Crisis - with Paul Frothy Thomson, Dan, Bryan | 12m, 4 | Red River Gorge | ★ Good | Sun 8th Dec 2019 | ||||
One hard pull.
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5.12d | ★★★ Triple Sec - with Paul Frothy Thomson, Dan, Bryan | 29m, 9 | Red River Gorge | ★★★ Classic | Sun 8th Dec 2019 | ||||
Brilliant face climb in my style but probably more like low end 12c regardless. I had one go to equip it, then had a false start on the bottom boulder, came down and rested for 10 minutes then sent it packing. Stoked!
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5.12d | ★★★ Jesus Wept - with Paul Frothy Thomson, Dan, Bryan | 29m, 11 | Red River Gorge | ★★★ Classic | Sun 8th Dec 2019 | ||||
Less interesting moves but more sustained and probably better than Triple Sec. This wall is STACKED! We’ll be back for sure.
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5.10a 5.10b | ★★ Oompa - with Paul Frothy Thomson, Christopher Glastonbury | 17m, 6 | Red River Gorge | ★★ Very Good | Mon 9th Dec 2019 | ||||
Pretty tricky but very fun. Kinda damp and it was real cold.
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5.10c | ★★★ Loompa - with Paul Frothy Thomson, Christopher Glastonbury | 17m, 6 | Red River Gorge | ★★★ Mega Classic | Mon 9th Dec 2019 | ||||
The coldness and dampness got the better of me on this one and i managed to fall off. Brilliant line for the grade, though it felt seriously tough! Second go.
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5.12d | ★★★ Gene Wilder - with Paul Frothy Thomson, Christopher Glastonbury | 23m | Red River Gorge | ★★★ Mega Classic | Mon 9th Dec 2019 | ||||
Ohhhh man. Came oh so close on my second lap! This is truly stunning. Best route in the gorge as they say! Top of the to do list. x2
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5.9 | ★★★ Autumn - with Paul Frothy Thomson | 24m | Red River Gorge | ★★★ Classic | Wed 11th Dec 2019 | ||||
Awesome warm up hand crack. Trad is rad!
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5.10a | ★★★ Rock Wars - with Paul Frothy Thomson | 24m | Red River Gorge | ★★★ Mega Classic | Wed 11th Dec 2019 | ||||
The dream! Flake Crack but perfect fingers and 25m long!
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5.12a | ★★★ The Gift - with Paul Frothy Thomson | 21m, 9 | Red River Gorge | ★★★ Classic | Wed 11th Dec 2019 | ||||
Exceptional and committing face climbing. Truly a proud onsight by Paul! Pretty tricky for the grade I reckon.
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5.10d | ★★★ Breakfast Burrito - with Paul Frothy Thomson, Dan, Harris, Phil, Jesse | 24m, 10 | Red River Gorge | ★★★ Mega Classic | Thu 12th Dec 2019 | ||||
Pure class.
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5.12a | ★★★ Hakuna Matata - with Paul Frothy Thomson | 26m, 9 | Red River Gorge | ★★★ Classic | Thu 12th Dec 2019 | ||||
Grand techo face climbing that I brought out lots of tricks for. This tour of the classics is really something!
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5.11a | ★★★ Whipstocking - with Paul Frothy Thomson | 24m, 8 | Red River Gorge | ★★★ Mega Classic | Thu 12th Dec 2019 | ||||
So awesome! One of the best routes at the grade I’ve ever done.
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5.12a | ★★★ Check Your Grip - with Paul Frothy Thomson | 24m, 7 | Red River Gorge | ★★★ Classic | Thu 12th Dec 2019 | ||||
Just another Drive-By gem.
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5.10d | ★★★ Fire and Brimstone - with Paul Frothy Thomson | 27m, 10 | Red River Gorge | ★★★ Classic | Thu 12th Dec 2019 | ||||
A seriously long adventure with a nails move for the grade. Crazy varied climbing and I was absolutely knackered! The wheels are falling off....
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5.11b | ★★ Trust in Jesus - with Paul Frothy Thomson | 15m, 5 | Red River Gorge | ★★ Very Good | Fri 13th Dec 2019 | ||||
Steep stuff is hard!
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5.12a | ★★ Chainsaw Massacre - with Paul Frothy Thomson | 18m, 7 | Red River Gorge | ★★★ Classic | Fri 13th Dec 2019 | ||||
Felt very hard for the grade! Twice.
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5.12c | ★★★ Malice - with Paul Frothy Thomson | 18m | Red River Gorge | ★★ Very Good | Sun 15th Dec 2019 | ||||
Kinda crappy start but then amazing movement above. Really really funky climbing that I sucked at! Two goes.
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5.12a 5.12b | ★★ Naked - with Paul Frothy Thomson | 15m, 6 | Red River Gorge | ★★ Very Good | Sun 15th Dec 2019 | ||||
Very pleased to get this done. Two shots today. Freaking nails for the grade!
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5.12d | ★★★ Jesus Wept - with Paul Frothy Thomson | 29m, 11 | Red River Gorge | ★★★ Mega Classic | Wed 18th Dec 2019 | ||||
Three goes in the worstest most arctic-est weather ever. The forecasted max temp for the day was -1 and that wasn’t until 3pm. Radical radical route but no real hopes of a send in such horrendous temperatures. I did get the beta down pat though.
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5.12c | ★★★ Orange Juice - with Paul Frothy Thomson | 29m | Red River Gorge | ★★★ Classic | Thu 19th Dec 2019 | ||||
Possibly the most unexpected send I have ever had. Another completely arctic day and my first lap was an absolute debacle. Such it was that when I tied in on my second go with the first three bolts clipped to practice the opening boulder sequence, I was very surprised to somehow find myself flash pumped out of my brains and with no feeling left in either of my hands at the rest jug below the crux. Gradually, whilst hanging on this jug, some feeling came back into my hands and my arms de-pumped entirely and I floated to the top like it was a 5.7 hand crack as massive chunks of ice fell off the route and smashed all around me. Surreal. Face climbing is the freaking best. Not a perfect ascent because of the pre-clipped draws at the start but I feel comfortable claiming it. Two goes today with one very poor attempt to half height on my first day.
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5.11b | ★★★ Prime Directive - with Paul Frothy Thomson | 29m, 11 | Red River Gorge | ★★★ Classic | Thu 19th Dec 2019 | ||||
I was a bit done with the cold and various anxieties about my trip so I had a very poor effort on this. Onsighted to the end but didn’t do the crux and couldn’t be bothered working it out. Felt kinda sandbagged. Amazing climbing though!
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5.12d | ★★★ Jesus Wept - with Paul Frothy Thomson | 29m, 11 | Red River Gorge | ★★★ Mega Classic | Fri 20th Dec 2019 | ||||
Perfect finish to the trip with a team send
of this route! Just absolute class and absolute fun, it doesn’t get much better! Stoked beyond belief. I warmed up on it then bungled a move on my first red point go today, but it went fairly easily after that and I felt gloriously solid on the tricky crux up high. I probably owe this ascent to the weather gods for finally bringing some manageable temperatures! Third shot today plus one exploratory lap the other week and three hopeless goes on the freezing day of death. Now on to Vegas and J-Tree!!
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5.12a | ★★ Stay the Hand | 15m | Red River Gorge | ★★ Very Good | Tue 9th Mar 2004 | ||||
Bouldery
|
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5.10a | ★★★ Rock Wars | 24m | Red River Gorge | ★★★ Mega Classic | Fri 12th Mar 2004 | ||||
Some consider it to be 10a to the top set of anchors - all I know is it is one amazing incredibly fun climb - and make sure you don't just finish at the bottom set of anchors, the 'in your face' headwall and handcrack to the top set of anchors are as classic as the lower section, and a perfect way to finish the climb.
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5.11d | ★★★ Ro Shampo | 18m | Red River Gorge | ★★★ Classic | Tue 9th Mar 2004 | ||||
Some, including me, think that this is actually a 12a.
|
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5.11d | ★★★ The Return of Chris Snyder | 29m | Red River Gorge | ★ Good | Sat 1st Mar 2008 | ||||
ouch!! it hurt!!
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5.11d | ★★★ The Infidel | 21m, 6 | Red River Gorge | ★★★ Classic | Sun 3rd Jul 2005 | ||||
pumper
|
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5.12c | ★★★ Orange Juice | 29m | Red River Gorge | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sat 12th Nov 2005 | ||||
awesome, hardest at bottom. gave it another go. Very close, got all the moves figured, too hard to try twice in a day, but soon...
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5.12b | ★★ Buff The Wood | 15m, 5 | Red River Gorge | ★★★ Classic | Sun 18th Sep 2005 | ||||
thin bottom, dynamic middle, stellar
|
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5.10c | ★★ Karmic Retribution | 14m | Red River Gorge | ★★ Very Good | Sat 15th Oct 2005 | ||||
slab, sweet holds and moves
|
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5.11b | ★★ Edge-a-Sketch | 21m | Red River Gorge | ★★★ Classic | Fri 30th Sep 2005 | ||||
glorious. the .12b extension is heady!
|
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5.11a 5.11b | ★★ Count Floyd Show | 21m, 6 | Red River Gorge | ★★ Very Good | Wed 13th Nov 2002 | ||||
it was raining, slipped off the mantle at the top. next time is trivial
|
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5.12a | ★★★ Twinkie | 21m, 11 | Red River Gorge | Sun 13th Nov 2005 | |||||
SUPER STEEP. first time on route, this will go soon
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