Grade | Route | Gear style | Crag | Quality | Climber | Date | |||
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5.12a A5 | |||||||||
A5 | ★ The Prow | 10m | Frederick | ★ Good | Sat 13th Aug 2005 | ||||
Failed to make it over the roof.
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V3 | |||||||||
V3 | ★★ Rust Spot | 2m | Frederick | ★★ Very Good | Sun 25th Sep 2005 | ||||
sds
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V3 | ★★ Hideout (Face Only Var.) | 3m | Frederick | ★★ Very Good | Thu 1st Jul 2004 | ||||
The way I first climbed it.
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V2 | |||||||||
V2 | ★★★ Hideout | 3m | Frederick | ★★★ Classic | Wed 1st Dec 2004 | ||||
sweet route
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V2 | ★★★ Hideout | 3m | Frederick | ★★★ Classic | Thu 1st Jul 2004 | ||||
The easier, more natural way.
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V2 | FA Altas | 2m | Frederick | Average | Sat 23rd Oct 2004 | ||||
Sit Start
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5.10d | |||||||||
5.10d | ★★ To Fin or Not To Fin | 14m | Frederick | ★★ Very Good | Wed 29th Sep 2004 | ||||
awesome...but raining
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5.10d | ★★ Force Ten | Frederick | ★★ Very Good | Mon 1st Jun 1992 | |||||
More correctly graded at 5.10b, still a difficult start.
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5.10d | Blood and Pus | 26m | Frederick | Average | Thu 10th Jun 2004 | ||||
t.r. solo
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5.10c | |||||||||
5.10c | ★ Flutterby | Washington DC | ★★ Very Good | Tue 13th Apr 2010 | |||||
Thin
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5.10c | ★★★ Cynosure | 15m | Frederick | ★★★ Classic | Fri 1st Jun 1990 | ||||
An excellent parallel climb to Black Crack. Sequency.
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V1 | |||||||||
V1 | FA ★★ Midday Heist | 4m | Frederick | ★★ Very Good | Thu 30th Dec 2004 | ||||
use your feet
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V1 | ★★ Little Sloper Problem | 2m | Frederick | ★★ Very Good | Thu 1st Jul 2004 | ||||
Got to have the right weather for the slopers. Short and sweet.
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V1 | FA ★ Battle of Trenton | 2m | Frederick | ★ Good | Wed 13th Apr 2005 | ||||
Sit Start
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V1 | FA ★★ Washington's Nose | 3m | Frederick | ★★ Very Good | Sat 16th Oct 2004 | ||||
Sit Start
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5.10b | |||||||||
5.10b | ★★ Fingernail | Washington DC | ★★ Very Good | Mon 12th Oct 2009 | |||||
Onsighted this on toprope
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5.10b | ★★★ The Boulder Problem | 5m | Frederick | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sat 19th Feb 2005 | ||||
Amazingly clean route. Awesome diminishing finger crack, to highball top-out. Sweet.
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5.10b | ★ Piney | Rocks State Park | ★★ Very Good | Tue 13th Apr 2010 | |||||
The crux is the roof; have fun with it!
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5.10b | ★ Piney | Rocks State Park | Average | Sun 13th Apr 2003 | |||||
Ok for EC
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5.10b | Too Hard To Hannanow | 16m | Weverton Cliff | Crap | Thu 8th Jul 2004 | ||||
Crumbling holds breaking off
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5.10b | Slippery Doo Dah | 8m | Frederick | Sat 4th Dec 2004 | |||||
t.r. solo
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5.10 | |||||||||
5.10 | ★ Unnamed | 7m | Frederick | ★ Good | Fri 5th Aug 2005 | ||||
Very balancy and technical. Follow the thin slopy diagonal crack to the left of Gymnastic. tr solo
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5.10 | ★ The Lemon Merchant | Frederick | Average | Sun 28th Oct 2007 | |||||
Almost got it clean -- one move away!
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5.10a | |||||||||
5.10a | ★★ Appeal To Reason | 12m | Frederick | ★ Good | Wed 29th Sep 2004 | ||||
very wet crack system...avoid after rains
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5.10a | ★★ Bloodguard | 11m | Frederick | ★★★ Classic | Fri 1st Jun 1990 | ||||
Best climb at Sugarloaf.
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5.10a | ★★ Biceptennial | 15m | Rocks State Park | ★★ Very Good | 1990 | ||||
Thin, sustained fingers.
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5.10a | ★★ Bloodguard | 11m | Frederick | ★ Good | Tue 28th Oct 2008 | ||||
Fun and crimpy on the bottom. Moves are trickier the shorter you are.
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5.10a | ★★ Mike's Finger Buckets | Rocks State Park | ★★★ Classic | Tue 13th Apr 2010 | |||||
A good, short, finger-stressing route. Once past the crux you can climb where ever.
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5.10a | ★★ Faint's Roof | 12m | Frederick | ★★★ Mega Classic | Fri 1st Jun 1990 | ||||
One of two routes here you MUST do.
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5.10a | ★ Demmonic Tutor | 5m | Frederick | ★★★ Classic | Sat 4th Dec 2004 | ||||
t.r. solo, end of the day
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5.10a | ★★ Mike's Finger Buckets | Rocks State Park | Average | Sun 13th Apr 2003 | |||||
O.k. for E.C.
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5.10a | ★★ The Battlefield | Frederick | ★★ Very Good | 1990 | |||||
If it were taller it'd be classic
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5.10a | ★★ It's All In The Fingers | 8m | Frederick | ★★ Very Good | Sat 19th Feb 2005 | ||||
Icicles in the cracks... ouch. Great layback crimps. t.r. solo
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5.10a | ★ Demmonic Tutor | 5m | Frederick | ★ Good | Thu 13th Jul 2006 | ||||
Very Dirty. Fun, but not what I'd call a classic.
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5.10a | ★★ The Battlefield | Frederick | ★★ Very Good | Thu 10th Jun 2004 | |||||
t.r. solo
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5.10a | ★★ Witch's Tit | 8m | Frederick | ★★ Very Good | Mon 24th Jul 2006 | ||||
Whole series of 5.10 moves. Perhaps harder than 5.10a?
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5.10a | ★★★ Rise, A Knight | 11m | Frederick | ★★★ Classic | Mon 31st Oct 2005 | ||||
Needs a traverse grade. Pretty intense.
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5.10a | ★★ Faint's Roof | 12m | Frederick | ★★ Very Good | Sun 24th Apr 2005 | ||||
Mikl led this, and I hangdogged it by clipping his pre-placed gear. A really fun route. Will come back and lead it one day.
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5.10a | ★★ Witch's Tit | 8m | Frederick | ★★ Very Good | Sat 19th Feb 2005 | ||||
Book says easy for a 10, but it seemed really hard and reachy. Probably just the icy rocks. t.r. solo
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5.10a | ★★ Mike's Finger Buckets | Rocks State Park | ★ Good | Fri 1st Apr 2005 | |||||
look for the right hand two finger lock at the crux
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5.10a | ★★ Bloodguard | 11m | Frederick | ★ Good | Sun 28th Oct 2007 | ||||
Lots of small crimpers on the bottom. Tricky sequence for shorter climbers -- fun to work out.
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V0+ | |||||||||
V0+ | ★ Crossing the Delaware (Lip Traverse) | 6m | Frederick | ★ Good | Thu 30th Dec 2004 | ||||
burnt out on the other routes
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V0+ | FA ★ Crossing the Delaware (Lip Traverse) | 6m | Frederick | ★ Good | Sat 16th Oct 2004 | ||||
Sit Start traverse to Sit Finish
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5.9 | |||||||||
5.9 | ★ Black Planet | 11m | Frederick | Sat 18th Nov 2006 | |||||
Accidentally started the climb in tennis shoes. Almost finished it clean!
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5.9 | ★★ Torture Chamber | 7m | Frederick | ★★ Very Good | Sat 4th Dec 2004 | ||||
t.r. solo, overhanging, flaring, widening off-width=scary
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5.9 | ★ Breakaway Right | 25m, 1 | Rocks State Park | ★ Good | Mon 1st Sep 2003 | ||||
harder then breakaway left
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5.9 | ★ Demon Breath | 12m | Frederick | Average | Sat 4th Dec 2004 | ||||
t.r. solo
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5.9 | ★★ Rhythm Roof | 11m | Frederick | ★★★ Classic | Thu 17th Jun 2004 | ||||
So many spiders.
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5.9 | ★★ Once of Perception | 26m | Frederick | ★★ Very Good | Thu 10th Jun 2004 | ||||
t.r. solo
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5.9 | ★★ Thumbthing Else | Frederick | ★★ Very Good | Tue 6th Sep 2005 | |||||
tr solo. Crimpy little boulder problem.
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5.9 | ★★★ Middle Man | 6m | Frederick | ★★★ Classic | Fri 5th Aug 2005 | ||||
Awesome little route. tr solo
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5.9 | ★★ Swinger | 6m | Frederick | ★★ Very Good | Fri 5th Aug 2005 | ||||
tr solo
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5.9 | Gymnastic | 7m | Frederick | Average | Fri 5th Aug 2005 | ||||
tr solo
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5.9 | ★ Breakaway Right | 25m, 1 | Rocks State Park | ★★★ Classic | Tue 13th Apr 2010 | ||||
The only downside to the climb is the short bit of thin finger crack once you get past the block/roof. If you opt to avoid that and do instead Breakaway Green Scar, once you get to the thin finger crack peel off right and follow the crimps up the green wall to the top. This is 10a and perhaps one of the best routes in Maryland.
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5.9 | Succubus | 5m | Frederick | Average | Thu 13th Jul 2006 | ||||
Very dirty and short, but worth doing once.
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5.9 | ★★★ Black Crack | 15m | Frederick | Sun 17th Apr 2005 | |||||
trad
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5.9 | ★★★ The Swan (Direct start) | 5m | Frederick | ★★★ Classic | Sat 19th Feb 2005 | ||||
Such an obvious line. Why isn't it in the book?
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5.9 | ★★ A Call to Arms | Frederick | ★★ Very Good | Tue 1st Jun 1999 | |||||
Best route on this area, fairly sustained.
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5.9 | ★ Dave's Route | 10m | Frederick | ★★ Very Good | Fri 26th Mar 2004 | ||||
The fine crack that runs up the block above the overhang, I had to stick my fingertips in and lie back a bit in order to come out of the overhang. That was the crux.
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5.9 | ★★★ Black Crack | 15m | Frederick | ★★★ Mega Classic | Fri 1st Jun 1990 | ||||
Sustained. Just do it!
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5.9 | ★★ Once of Perception | 26m | Frederick | ★★★ Classic | Sat 6th Jun 2009 | ||||
Present project
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5.9 | ★★ Unknown | 9m | Frederick | ★★ Very Good | Wed 5th Oct 2005 | ||||
tr solo. Weird moves, but fun.
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5.9 | ★★ The Swan | 5m | Frederick | ★★ Very Good | Sun 16th Jan 2005 | ||||
Dirty, but great moves
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5.9 | ★ Incipient | Washington DC | ★ Good | Sat 1st Apr 1989 | |||||
Quintessential Carderock Contrived Climbing.
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5.9 | ★ Kiss the Blade | 14m | Frederick | ★ Good | 2005 | ||||
A big flake popped off the face, making this route more of a 5.7 or something
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5.9 | ★★ Fly Fishing | 12m | Big Gunpowder Falls | ★★ Very Good | Fri 2nd Jul 2004 | ||||
Beware of the hornet's nest, and the bird's nest.
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5.9 | ★ Breakaway Right | 25m, 1 | Rocks State Park | Average | Sun 13th Apr 2003 | ||||
OK for E.C.
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5.9 | ★ Incipient | Washington DC | Average | Mon 18th Apr 2005 | |||||
kind of boring, one fun move.
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5.9 | ★ Breakaway Left | 25m, 1 | Rocks State Park | ★★★ Classic | Tue 13th Apr 2010 | ||||
Above average for RSP
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5.9 | Scared Straight | Rocks State Park | ★ Good | 1990 | |||||
Good variation to Peanut Butter.
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5.9 | ★ Breakaway Left | 25m, 1 | Rocks State Park | Average | Sun 13th Apr 2003 | ||||
O.K for E.C.
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5.9 | ★ Aqua's Ascent | Frederick | ★★ Very Good | Tue 1st Jun 1999 | |||||
A variation to Amazon from Ozegna
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5.9 | ★ High Hopes | 12m | Frederick | ★ Good | Fri 1st Jun 1990 | ||||
A good variation to Black Hole Sun. Short but powerful.
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5.9 | ★ Shadow Warrior | Frederick | ★ Good | Fri 1st Jun 1990 | |||||
Committing move onto the crux.
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5.9 | ★ Kiss the Blade | 14m | Frederick | ★ Good | Sat 28th Aug 2004 | ||||
one move wonder
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5.9 | ★ Black Planet | 11m | Frederick | ★★ Very Good | Fri 1st Jun 1990 | ||||
A really nice route that is often overlooked in favor of the others that people come to first.
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5.9 | ★★ Once of Perception | 26m | Frederick | ★★★ Classic | Fri 1st Jun 1990 | ||||
A very good line, also the tallest route at Annapolis Rocks.
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5.9 | ★★ Rhythm Roof | 11m | Frederick | ★★ Very Good | 1980 | ||||
Sucker rating...very hard entry to the roof.
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5.9 | ★ High Anxiety Direct | Patapsco Valley State Park | ★★ Very Good | 1990 | |||||
Popular route.
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5.9 | Cracks in the Earth | 22m | Frederick | Average | Thu 10th Jun 2004 | ||||
t.r. solo
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5.9 | ★ Butterfly | 14m | Washington DC | Mon 5th Sep 2022 | |||||
This is the hardest 5.9 I've climbed ha
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5.8 | |||||||||
5.8 | ★ Tramontane | 12m | Big Gunpowder Falls | Average | Thu 14th May 2009 | ||||
Plan on hitting this spot after a long DRY week
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5.8 | ★ Wall of Wander | 15m | Frederick | ★ Good | 1990 | ||||
Lots of variations from 5.5 to 5.9
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5.8 | ★ White Quartz Wielder | 11m | Frederick | ★★ Very Good | Sun 2nd Nov 2003 | ||||
Pulling lip, left of crack, so fun
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5.8 | ★ Goblin's Eye | Rocks State Park | ★ Good | 1990 | |||||
Too short
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5.8 | Unnamed | 20m | Frederick | ★ Good | Mon 20th Jun 2005 | ||||
At the long face of "Rosemary," head up about 6 feet to the right
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5.8 | ★★ Pacemaker | 12m | Frederick | ★★★ Classic | Sat 4th Dec 2004 | ||||
t.r. solo
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5.8 | Renaissance | Patapsco Valley State Park | ★ Good | 1990 | |||||
Mostly a boulder problem, but an excellent one.
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5.8 | Unnamed | 20m | Frederick | Average | Mon 20th Jun 2005 | ||||
5.8 - Much easier if you wear proper shoes.
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5.8 | ★★★ Strawberry Jam | 10m | Rocks State Park | ★★★ Classic | 1990 | ||||
Excellent climb, very popular. Hard to lead, though.
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5.8 | ★ Hard Up | 46m | Frederick | ★ Good | Mon 1st Jun 1992 | ||||
The most popular of the harder routes here, it is thin in both pro and hand/footholds.
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5.8 | ★ White Arete | 15m | Frederick | ★★ Very Good | Fri 1st Jun 1990 | ||||
Crux at bottom and top (depending on how you set the rope). Pleasant climbing in the middle.
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5.8 | ★★ Blue Rose | Patapsco Valley State Park | ★★★ Classic | 1990 | |||||
Extremely good, but really should be rated 5.9.
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5.8 | ★ Climber Sensitivity Training Wall | Frederick | ★ Good | Mon 1st Jun 1992 | |||||
You can range the difficulty from 5.5 to 5.10 depending on what portion of the wall you climb up.
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5.8 | ★★ All Around | 6m | Frederick | ★★ Very Good | Fri 5th Aug 2005 | ||||
tr solo
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5.8 | ★★ Epitaph Wall | Rocks State Park | ★ Good | 1990 | |||||
Too short
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5.8 | ★ Wall of Wander | 15m | Frederick | ★★ Very Good | Sun 18th Apr 2004 | ||||
Not as easy as it looks from the ground!
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5.8 | ★★★ Strawberry Jam | 10m | Rocks State Park | ★★ Very Good | Fri 30th Apr 2004 | ||||
My first crack.
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5.8 | ★ Illusion | 15m | Frederick | ★★ Very Good | Fri 1st Jun 1990 | ||||
A good standalone climb to be done if you're not up to Black Crack.
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5.8 | ★★ The Diamond | Washington DC | ★★ Very Good | Mon 11th Jul 2005 | |||||
Damp, but good
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