Grade | Route | Gear style | Quality | Climber | Date | |||
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Minnesota Sugar Loaf | ||||||||
5.7 | Six Pack | 20m | Average | Sat 5th May 2018 | ||||
First lead
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Minnesota Jeff's World M&M Hill C Section | ||||||||
5.8 | C Saw | 20m | Sat 14th Jul 2018 | |||||
At night
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5.8 | Hanging Chad | 11m | Sat 14th Jul 2018 | |||||
At night
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Minnesota The North Shore Carlton Peak South Buttress | ||||||||
5.8 | ★★ #16 | ★★★ Classic | Mon 7th Aug 2006 | |||||
My favorite climb in Mn. Great layback hand crack 3/4 of the way. Great views and sweet rock. Use protection for the webbing because the rock is sharp. Read guidebook.
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Minnesota The North Shore Section 13 | ||||||||
5.10a | ★ We Don' Need No Steenkin' Ledges | Don't Bother | Fri 13th Jun 2003 | |||||
Very dirty
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Minnesota The North Shore Mystical Mountain Zone Mystical Mountain Mystical Mountain South | ||||||||
5.5 | ★ Mother Goose | ★ Good | Mon 30th May 2005 | |||||
Decent, not too much challenge, some big runout spots
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5.5 | ★ Mother Goose | ★ Good | Mon 30th May 2005 | |||||
sweet rock, sharp and able to grip anywhere
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Minnesota The North Shore Mystical Mountain Zone Mystical Mountain Mystical Mountain West | ||||||||
5.10a | ★★★ Jack Be Nimble | ★★ Very Good | Sun 7th Aug 2005 | |||||
Could barely get a fist jam on crux
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Minnesota The North Shore Mystical Mountain Zone Wolf Lake Set | ||||||||
5.5 | West Column Ramp | Crap | Mon 30th May 2005 | |||||
Wet, hard to get to, not worth anything
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5.5 | West Column Ramp | Crap | Mon 30th May 2005 | |||||
worst then crap, it stinks!
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Minnesota The North Shore Shovel Point | ||||||||
5.10c | ★★★ Dance of the Sugar-Plumb Faeries, Route 3 | Sun 6th Jun 2004 | ||||||
Slab from easy to hard as you go left.
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5.10c | ★★★ Dance of the Sugar-Plumb Faeries, Route 3 | ★★★ Classic | Thu 12th Jun 2003 | |||||
Beautiful Slab
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5.10c | ★★★ Dance of the Sugar-Plumb Faeries, Route 3 | ★★★ Classic | Thu 17th Jun 2004 | |||||
A must-climb at Shovel Point.
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5.8 | ★★ Dance of the Sugar-Plumb Faeries, Route 2 | ★★★ Classic | Fri 4th Jun 2004 | |||||
Yup.
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5.8 | ★ Did Plato Love Trees? | ★ Good | Sun 1st Jun 2003 | |||||
A good climb for first timers
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5.11c | ★★ Balance of Power | Average | Sun 6th Jun 2004 | |||||
Wet.
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5.10b | ★ Ross's Crack | ★★ Very Good | Sun 6th Jun 2004 | |||||
Balancy!
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5.10a | ★ The Tree Route | ★ Good | Sun 6th Jun 2004 | |||||
Cool. Don't use the tree!
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Minnesota The North Shore Palisade Head The Northern Ramparts | ||||||||
5.11d | ★★★ Poseidon Adventure | Sun 7th Nov 2021 | ||||||
TR clean. great route. a mix of delicate stemming, hard crimping, and pulling hard on a small crack.
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5.9 | ★★ No Sugar, No Baby | ★★ Very Good | Tue 4th Oct 2022 | |||||
TR solo in approach shoes clean. great hand crack in a dihedral with crumbly rock above and below
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5.9 | Whodunit | Average | Sat 9th Jul 2005 | |||||
Fun climb ignoring the chossy rock and being dirty. Watch your masterpoint for potential swing.
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5.10d | ★★ North Tower, South Face | ★★ Very Good | Sat 9th Jul 2005 | |||||
Fun clean line
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5.10d | ★★ North Tower, South Face | Tue 4th Oct 2022 | ||||||
TR solo on headwall for pictures
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Minnesota The North Shore Palisade Head The Central Ramparts | ||||||||
5.10b | ★★ Mack the Knife | Fri 23rd Sep 2022 | ||||||
clean. good quick warm up route
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5.10b | ★★ Mack the Knife | Sun 13th Sep 2020 | ||||||
clean
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5.11d | ★★★ Mr. Lean | Fri 23rd Sep 2022 | ||||||
Fell at crux. Tried to climb straight up the finger crack, gets hard 2/3 of the way up. Instead, reaching left (maybe using the right hand pinch?) to the sidepulls, getting feet up, then reaching to the ledge feels easier. A "jug" is to the right of the crack which might help getting into the loose finger crack above. high left foot onto a small edge. remains tough for a few more moves, but the hand jams are there to rest. awesome hand jams to start.
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5.7 | ★★ The Great Bird Chimney | ★★ Very Good | Sat 13th Aug 2005 | |||||
Great chimney ending in a squeeze
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5.8 | ★ Double-Breasted Anchor | ★★ Very Good | Sat 13th Aug 2005 | |||||
Short; perfect for crack climbing intro
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5.10c | ★★ Urge to Mate | ★★★ Classic | Sat 13th Aug 2005 | |||||
Short but great sequences w/ fun ending
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5.10c | ★★ Urge to Mate | Fri 10th Jun 2022 | ||||||
TR clean
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5.11b | ★★★ Driving in Duluth | ★★★ Classic | Sat 2nd Jul 2005 | |||||
Fun route finding
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Minnesota The North Shore Palisade Head The Amphitheater | ||||||||
5.8 | ★ Superior Crack | 50m | Average | Tue 13th Apr 2010 | ||||
wide
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5.8 | ★ Superior Crack | 50m | ★★ Very Good | Sun 24th Aug 2003 | ||||
"Fun" Offwidth Crack
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5.8 | ★ Superior Crack | 50m | ★★ Very Good | Wed 16th Jun 2004 | ||||
Off-width, more 5.9 than 5.8
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5.8 | ★ Superior Crack | 50m | ★★ Very Good | Tue 13th Apr 2010 | ||||
will piss you off
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5.8 | ★★ Quetico Crack | Fri 10th Jun 2022 | ||||||
TR clean
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5.9 | ★★ Bluebells | 50m | ★ Good | Tue 13th Apr 2010 | ||||
jamtastic!
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5.9 | ★★ Bluebells | 50m | ★★ Very Good | 2000 | ||||
First climb I've done at Palisade, still a fun one to do
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5.9 | ★★ Bluebells | 50m | ★★ Very Good | Fri 1st Aug 2003 | ||||
Pumpy, crux comes pretty late in the game.
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5.9 | ★★ Bluebells | 50m | Thu 8th Jul 2004 | |||||
I failed at the crux
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5.9 | ★★ Bluebells | 50m | Sat 6th Nov 2021 | |||||
TR clean. good jams
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5.9 | ★★ Phantom Crack | 50m | ★★★ Classic | Fri 1st Aug 2003 | ||||
Great climb, beautiful crack.
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5.9 | ★★ Phantom Crack | 50m | ★★★ Classic | Sat 2nd Jul 2005 | ||||
recomend 1 set nuts cams 1-3.5 opt cams 1-3
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5.9 | ★★ Phantom Crack | 50m | Sun 1st Sep 2019 | |||||
At crux when crack goes to loose hands, use finger lock to climbers left.
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5.11b | ★★★ Hidden Treasure | ★★★ Classic | Fri 10th Jun 2022 | |||||
TR rope solo clean
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5.11b | ★★★ Hidden Treasure | ★★★ Classic | Sat 6th Nov 2021 | |||||
still an awesome route. TR clean
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5.12a | ★★ Sunny and Sheer | Sat 11th Jun 2022 | ||||||
Super fun movement on the bottom 1/2. Tough arete climbing on loose rock for the top 1/2. At crux left heel jug, left hand side pull around arete , right hand to 3rd pod with thumb catch, left hand upper crystal side pull, right hand to pocket. Then, stay within 1 arms length of arete, first left on crumbly cracks, with a section of easier climbing on the right side before finishing on the left side in the good finger sized crack.
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5.10b | ★★ Ex Nihilo | Sun 7th Nov 2021 | ||||||
TR clean.
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Minnesota The North Shore Palisade Head The Southern Ramparts | ||||||||
5.9 | ★★ Pussyfoot | ★★ Very Good | Fri 9th Jul 2004 | |||||
TDLD p1,2(2)
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5.10a | ★★ Bridges over Troubled Water | ★★ Very Good | Sat 9th Jul 2005 | |||||
Little dirty but requires all types of technique
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5.10a | ★★ Scars and Tripes Forever | ★★★ Classic | Fri 11th Jun 2004 | |||||
Fantastic.
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5.10d | ★★ A Feathery Tong | Sun 7th Nov 2021 | ||||||
TR clean. bottom pitch not worth doing: balancy crimps on crumbling rock. top pitch has some good moves, but the final headwall is the best part. the holds are there to go straight up!
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5.8 | ★ Danger High Voltage | 80m | ★★ Very Good | Sun 14th Aug 2005 | ||||
Run out if without big bros; TDLD p1 of 2
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5.8 | ★ Danger High Voltage | 80m | ★★ Very Good | Tue 1st May 2007 | ||||
Trad-Lead
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5.11d | Yellow Feather | Mon 13th Jun 2022 | ||||||
got the crux sequence on my third try, no other falls. keep body by left face, side pull hard on top pod with a rand smear in crack and right foot on smeary bulge.
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5.11a | ★★ Iron Maiden | ★★★ Classic | 2006 | |||||
One of the few squeeze chimneys in Minnesota
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5.11a | ★★ Iron Maiden | Sat 11th Jun 2022 | ||||||
TR clean, started right hip in, then switched to left hip in at ledge
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5.0 | Southern Escape Gully | 30m | Average | Sat 11th May 2013 | ||||
with broken leg
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Minnesota Elys Peak Northwestern Bluff | ||||||||
5.6 | ★★ Corner Geometry | ★★ Very Good | Fri 1st Jun 2007 | |||||
Date of my first trad lead of this one
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5.7 | ★ The Flake | ★★ Very Good | Fri 1st Jun 2007 | |||||
The date of my first trad lead of this one
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5.10 | ★★ Two Left Feet | ★★ Very Good | Sat 28th May 2005 | |||||
Same start as Two Right feet but continue straight up through small roof and face
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Minnesota Elys Peak Tunnel Bluff | ||||||||
5.6 | ★★ Dislocation Overhang | Sun 1st Aug 1993 | ||||||
My first outdoor climb in 5th grade
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5.6 | Beginner's Crack | ★ Good | Sun 29th May 2005 | |||||
fun crack
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Minnesota Sandstone Robinson Park Main Flow Area | ||||||||
5.11c | Spray | 15m | Sun 11th Jul 2021 | |||||
Right hand crimp (pointer in seam), left hand edge on arete, bump right hand up to drill hole, slopers on top, clip with heel hook, mantle
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Minnesota Sandstone Robinson Park Sigma Wall | ||||||||
5.12a | ★★★ Sigma | 21m | Sun 11th Jul 2021 | |||||
need to work on top rope a few times before leading again
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Minnesota Sandstone Robinson Park Diagonals Wall | ||||||||
5.10a | Packen Wir Es An!!!! (11) Packen Wir Es An!!!!) | 15m | Sat 11th Apr 2020 | |||||
lead rope solo
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5.10a | Boltway To Heaven (09) Boltway to Heaven) | 15m | Sat 11th Apr 2020 | |||||
lead rope solo
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5.9 | Supercalifragalisticexpi-Bolt-Adocious (08) Supercalifragalisticexpi-BOLT-adocious) | 15m | Sat 11th Apr 2020 | |||||
lead rope solo
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5.10a | Dirty Bolts And Their Done Dirt Cheap (07) Dirty bolts and they’re done dirt cheap) | 15m | Sat 11th Apr 2020 | |||||
lead rope solo
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5.11 | 02) Nick The Wonder Dog | 15m | Sat 21st May 2022 | |||||
to get up to crux, left hand good pinch, work your way up the right side of the bolts, right hand up to side pull in drill hole. at crux, start with right toes facing down, then spin to standing up. left hand throw to ledge
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5.11 | 02) Nick The Wonder Dog | 15m | Fri 27th Mar 2020 | |||||
side pull up to the jug. match on the jug, stem feet out. right hand up to bad pinch. stand up on feet and throw for the good lip. got it after a few tries
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5.11 | 02) Nick The Wonder Dog | 15m | Sat 21st May 2022 | |||||
use right hand crimp at top of crux rather than pinch. 1-hung the beginning.
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Minnesota Interstate State Park, Minnesota side Devils Chair Area | ||||||||
5.5 | Eagle's Nest | 30m | Average | Sat 28th Jul 2018 | ||||
Followed P1, Led P2. First trad lead, first trad onsight
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Minnesota Interstate State Park, Minnesota side Delicate Dihedral Area | ||||||||
5.7 | ★ Feather Jam | Average | Sun 10th Jul 2005 | |||||
very short
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Minnesota Interstate State Park, Minnesota side Keyhole Area | ||||||||
5.11a | ★★ Reason to Believe | Sat 7th May 2022 | ||||||
high foot, right hand crimp crux. traverse right immediately after crux
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Minnesota Interstate State Park, Minnesota side Minnesota Strip | ||||||||
5.10a | ★★★ #6 | ★★ Very Good | Sat 25th Sep 2004 | |||||
Taylor's Falls classic
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5.10a | ★★★ #6 | ★★ Very Good | Sat 25th Sep 2004 | |||||
This was a hard climb for me
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5.10a | ★★★ #6 | ★★★ Classic | Tue 13th Apr 2010 | |||||
took forever to lead clean
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5.10a | ★★★ #6 | ★ Good | Thu 1st May 2008 | |||||
fun
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5.10a | ★★★ #6 | ★★★ Mega Classic | Tue 13th Apr 2010 | |||||
soo much fun
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5.10a | ★★★ #6 - with Chad German | Sat 21st Apr 2012 | ||||||
Done this many times. Still fun. Called The Bulge.
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5.11b | ★★ Fancy Dancer | ★★ Very Good | Sat 25th Sep 2004 | |||||
short but sweet
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5.11b | ★★ Fancy Dancer | ★ Good | Thu 1st May 2008 | |||||
makes you think a bit!
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5.11b | ★★ Fancy Dancer | Average | Sat 30th Jul 2005 | |||||
Short, but very pumpy
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5.5 | ★ Blue Moon | Average | Sun 31st Jul 2005 | |||||
Lead CLimb
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5.5 | ★ Blue Moon | Average | Thu 21st Jul 2005 | |||||
If you're up for a really easy lead, do this
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5.5 | ★ Blue Moon | Average | Sat 25th Sep 2004 | |||||
nice easy lead
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5.5 | ★ Blue Moon | Thu 6th Jun 1991 | ||||||
Fair
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5.5 | ★ Blue Moon | ★★★ Classic | Thu 26th Apr 2007 | |||||
Super fun lead. Great variety of placements on a long climb
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5.9 | ★★ The Column Direct | Tue 13th Apr 2010 | ||||||
finished not followed path
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5.9 | ★★ The Column Direct | 1999 | ||||||
lead onsight
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5.9 | ★★ The Column Direct | ★ Good | Sat 25th Sep 2004 | |||||
start is an excellent boulder problem
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5.9 | ★★ The Column Direct | ★★★ Classic | Thu 26th Apr 2007 | |||||
Long TR with great holds and variations
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5.9 | ★★ The Column Direct - with Chad German | Sat 21st Apr 2012 | ||||||
poor pro for the interesting climbing on the bottom -- best top roped.
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5.9 | ★★ Column Direct | Sun 20th Mar 2022 | ||||||
left hand side pull, right hand slot, high right foot, stand up into right hand side pull. Small gear that you don't want to test
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5.6 | ★★ The Column | Tue 13th Apr 2010 | ||||||
Good, but the direct route is a good challenge. Beware wasps.
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5.6 | ★★ The Column | Sun 6th Jul 1997 | ||||||
Good
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5.5 | ★ Jammermeister | Don't Bother | Mon 16th May 2005 | |||||
A decent beginner lead, but not much more
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5.5 | ★ Jammermeister | Sat 6th Jul 1996 | ||||||
Good
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5.5 | ★ Jammermeister | ★ Good | Sun 15th Jun 2003 | |||||
nice easy lead with a couple good moves
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