Ascents in Nevada having Beta

Could do it clean with practice. One rest. Climbed with gloves on because it was so cold and sharp.

sharp rock makes it easy for hands or feet to stick to, but was super cold and windy. I thought it was a cool route.

Very nice but pumpy route. Had to search for the jugs way too long. Possibly less pumpy when you know the route.

3rd try. 1 working burn.

Flashed thanks to Hunters recon mission for the beta.

Dope route! Tough one pad two finger clip followed by the crux.

2nd go

Last route of the day, I didn't have enough power anymore to climb past the crux

Super nice route. Beginning is easy. The hard movements are above the belly. My beta was go up on the left sidepull with left hand (side pull goes to the right) right hand right of the sidepull, then up to slopy holds. Then left foot to the big black surface that is inclined. Right foot up and left hand to crimp. Then right foot on ticked foothold and right hand up to block on the left. Then match and right hand up to vertical long hole above.

Possibly better beta is: go to the holds on the very left. Left hand to the lower one, then go higher to side hold above. Then left foot on inclined black foothold (which is a surface) or right good hold, and then with right hand to ticked crimp. (Fabis beta)

Skipped the quickdraw in the crux sequence - my beta was good, but I hadn't thought I would get back into the route, so I didn't find a position to clip the draw last time, and I was indeed not able to clip it with my beta this time.

Did it after 6 tries in total. My beta changed a bit. Clipping before the crux is possible from the good pocket for the right hand. (Left foot high and right foot low to the very left of the big foothold before. Then left hand to ok side pull, I use the part above the chalked and slippery part which is still a bit sharp. Left foot high on good foothold. Right foot not too far left and then move up the right hand to the top most hold above the slopers. It's not super good but ok enogh. Then left hand to crimp, right hand matches, and left hand to jug above small block.

2nd Go

Clipped all the quickdraws for Klara R, the crux seemed quite hard with a bad right hand pinch, but I didn't really try to do the moves.

Tried the route in lead first but could not clip 4th QuickDraw and figure out the moves into the crux. Sent @mf for clipping the draws . Then tried in toprope but still could not do the crux move. You have to move from an undercling crimp and a crimp which is inclined to the left to a very bad pinch. The pinch is so bad that I cannot really use it as a hold. From that pinch you would need to rearrange feet and move into a good hold with left. Too hard yet.

Sick route! Had to skip the second to last clip. Since Honnold and Weidner ticked 13a who am I to argue I'll take it.

Nice route, mostly on jugs through the roof and then on crimps through the headwall. Kneepad for the left knee is quite helpful, there is one really good kneebar before the steepest part of the roof and one still quite good kneebar after that part. Felt doable, but probably not in a day.

Actually called 'Call of Duty'. Difficult, but doable bouldery part for the first two quickdraws, then another hard part around a block and finally what was the crux for me (for which I couldn't find a solution): you somehow have to get out of a crack in which you can place good hand jams and to a jug which is quite far out. There are some bad holds in between but I didn't manage to place my feet in a way which would allow me to reach the jug.

Impromptu day at BD due to rain the day before resulted in me skipping a grade. Worked this many days last season, but only 3 or so this season.

First 13a! 11d, to a good rest, into a V6 boulder problem.

Easy up to a jump about two thirds up the route, which is also not that hard yet, but then, a series of hard moves on a small rail and a sloper follows. Will try again if we come back

Should have sent today, but somehow didn't quite make it. One try to find good beta for the crux sequence, then fell four times at almost the same move: after matching the rail, I managed to match the sloper, but always didn't quite reach the crimp with the left. Probably should have taken more time to optimize the footwork since there was always something which was not quite optimal. 6th try was a desperate attempt without break after falling because of a misplaced foot in try 5, 7th try in the dark with a headlamp.

Easy today. The Mountain Project grade of 5.13a is definitely more appropriate for this line

Most difficult part is the beginning, slipped off just after the first quickdraw, went down to the ground and then climbed the route

The start is a bit too bouldery for me, but the rest of the routes is super nice. Premium movements.

Tried it once, there is a hard shoulder move in the most overhanging part of the route which (at least for me) is clearly the hardest move of the route.

Nice moves, including heel-toe cam and kneebar

It is a 5.11d, it even says so in the guide book ☺️. Very nice moves. Best beta is probably to use a high foot jam in the crack on the right to move up to the jug.

Slowly slid off the holds at the second fixed quickdraw, friction is almost non-existent if you got used to Joshua Tree

The route is a bit weird with slippery footholds and you don't see where the right holds are.

Nice warm up route

Nice warm-up route indeed.

Very good and very strenuous corner climbing. Wild.

X2 for warmer upper purposes

Hard n good, very tricky.

LOOOOVE this route. It follows some awesome crimp rails. Good crimps and hidden holds everywhere. Definitely a little bold, especially the last two bolts and took me a try to work up the nerves to go for it.

Super Fun! Great Warm-up. Long route.

Tricky Slab but fun. Feet required some thinking. Spacey....but in a good way.

Not the best rock. The crack moves were okay but just not the best rock.

Better of the routes over there.

BOOOOOOTY!

Little Roof, far left.

A nice chimney on solid rock.

#FA One of the best FA's of my life. Tried in 2013 with no success. So incredibly stoked.