Routes as trad in Lakes Region

Climb the (usually wet) left ascending crack/gully.

Needs traditional protection between the 2nd and 3rd bolts.

In the Ward Smith (2009) guide book as BBAC.

Despite the name, only 5.7.

Climb the obvious crack with ledges up to lower-offs. Very good protection with generally good stances to place it from.

Extension of 'That Crack'

P1 is trad. P2 is mixed trad(?). P3 is sport. Dead Toad is a sport variation to P2 that goes left.

Actually 2nd pitch, continuing above anchors for "Holderness Arete" on 2 bolts and gear.

The obvious dihedral with crack in the back. Want gear up to a #4 friend. Lower-offs.

A wandering route that is not climbed anymore.

Start up some un-protected but easy slab to the left-leaning flake and follow the flake to bolted anchors. Generally well-protected except the start.

This route no longer really exists -- it was originally a mixed bolt & trad route that has been re-bolted and straightened out by Jim Shimberg, and is now the route "Hippos on Parade".

Ward Smith's guide book (2009), which looks to be the book to use at Rumney (as of spring 2012), has no mention of a route with this name anywhere at Rumney, and nothing at this or close grade in the Meadows with a name at all similar.

After a few bolts up "Thou Shalt Not Covet", breaks left to the "Student Loan" anchors. Often top-roped, or can be lead with gear.

Start on a bit of a dirt ledge up and left of the main base at "Clippity Do Dah". A bit run-out on the (short) first pitch. Better climbing and gear for the 2nd pitch.

Both pitches one and three are short -- either could be combined with pitch 2.

1. climb up and over an overlap to a belay.

2. climb the obvious crack to a prominent pine tree for the belay.

3. finish up the easy slab above to a tree belay at the top.

Go up the obvious wide chimney with the large boulders wedged in it.

Climb the slabs to the right, passing a bunch of trees. As of spring 2012, at least the lower slabs are a dirty and moss- and pine-needle- covered mess.

Climb the broken crack up and right behind the "Wimpy-Gilman Ridge". Finish on the anchors for "Rainbow".

Follow the right-angling corner/ramp from the right end of the ledge.

Left up a crack, then right; shares anchor with "Scene of the Crime"

Crap?

Climb the right leaning hand crack in a series of corners. Often dirty.

Mantle then face to a short crack.

This easy slab climb is squeezed between 'Clippity Do Dah' and 'Lady and the Tramp'.

1. Start up the clean slab just right of 'Clippity Do Dah', as it is too dirty straight up the middle. A trad anchor can be made in the gully between the two bolted anchors.

2. Continue up the Gully to the plateau at the top. You can borrow the anchor of 'Lady and the Tramp' or build an anchor with one of the large trees at the top.

Walk off to the left, or rap down but be aware a single 60 m rope may not get you all the way to the bottom from the mid station anchors.