Ascents in Fantasy Area

P1

damp and mossy, we were waiting for another climb and this filled the time.

Route-finding difficult!

did 1st pitch (5.6)

P1 (5.7) only - P2 looks short/crappy

Cool juggy crack. Green and red for a fair while but the face holds keep the grade down.

Engaging classic.

didn't bother with the second pitch

P1 offers mild crack climbing with a couple of hard moves to get situated in the crack. If you are reading this, do yourself a favour and stop at P1 anchor. The top out of P2 is caked with runoff (May 2024) which resulted in a 2hr ascent. The two crimps below the anchor were filled with mud leading to some type 2 fun.

Stout 12b.

3 shots. could work out the crux start and get through til the last pumpy section before my fingers fatigued. the last move to the anchors is petrifying. long fall through tree branches and since I really didn't want my obituary to read impaled on tree branch, I stick clipped the anchor (which needed a bloody long stick) having done that and worked out the top, its not so bad (although I would have fallen first time). great moves. just need sleep and more finger endurance. feels like a 27!

So classic! Exciting finish.

should have given it another go after hanging the draws...next time.

hard first time. too scared to take fall with ledgy bits. much easier second time round

Perfect rock. It's like someone designed it! A couple of the slopers had never seen a brush!