Grade | Route | Gear style | Crag | Quality | Climber | Date | |||
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5.10c | ★★ Karmic Retribution | 14m | Red River Gorge | ★★ Very Good | Sat 15th Oct 2005 | ||||
slab, sweet holds and moves
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5.12a | ★★ Cosmic Trigger | 21m | Red River Gorge | ★★ Very Good | Sat 15th Oct 2005 | ||||
new route, no chalk, dirty, but awesome.
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5.9 | ★★ Day Dreaming | Red River Gorge | ★★★ Classic | Tue 13th Apr 2010 | |||||
Hands to fingers
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5.10b | ★ Loosen Up | 15m | Red River Gorge | Sun 6th Jul 2014 | |||||
Tried this in the past. Got it this time. Still felt very pumpy at the top.
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5.10b | ★ Loosen Up | 15m | Red River Gorge | Sun 6th Jul 2014 | |||||
Tried this in the past. Got it this time. Still felt very pumpy at the top.
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Trad | |||||||||
★★ Symbiosis | 90m, 10 | Red River Gorge | Sun 6th Dec 2015 | ||||||
Fun. Glad Jon brought a cam. Just manage the pump up top.
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5.8 | ★★ Face Up to That Crack | 21m, 8 | Red River Gorge | ★ Good | Thu 16th Mar 2006 | ||||
Crack can take #1 and #2 camalots
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5.8 | ★★ Face Up to That Crack | 21m, 8 | Red River Gorge | ★★ Very Good | Tue 13th Apr 2010 | ||||
fun 1 piece trad placement
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5.8 | ★★ Face Up to That Crack | 21m, 8 | Red River Gorge | ★★ Very Good | Fri 29th Dec 2006 | ||||
made it to the crack then got shut down
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5.8 | ★★ Face Up to That Crack | 21m, 8 | Red River Gorge | Sat 22nd May 1999 | |||||
?
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5.8 | ★★ Face Up to That Crack | 21m, 8 | Red River Gorge | ★ Good | Sun 9th Oct 2005 | ||||
No gear with us so ran it out at the crack.
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5.8 | ★★ Face Up to That Crack | 21m, 8 | Red River Gorge | ★★ Very Good | Thu 24th Oct 2019 | ||||
Can be sport climbed if you're willing to run out the 5.7 hand crack. Otherwise, bring a single no.1
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5.8 | ★★ Face Up to That Crack | 21m, 8 | Red River Gorge | ★★★ Classic | Wed 29th May 2024 | ||||
Fun and varied movement, if you are comfortable at the grade it can be done as a run out sport climb.
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5.8 | ★★ Whiteout | 30m, 5 | Red River Gorge | ★★ Very Good | Wed 9th Sep 2015 | ||||
Cool line. First pitch is mediocre but the dihedral is nice and exposed, good climbing and very aesthetic.
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5.10c | ★★ Bushwhacked | 18m, 4 | Red River Gorge | ★★ Very Good | Tue 28th May 2024 | ||||
Done with one black totem.
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5.7 | ★★★ Call of the Wild | 24m, 2 | Red River Gorge | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sat 12th Oct 2013 | ||||
Fun chimney sequence
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5.8 | ★★ Put the Best Foot Forward | 17m, 2 | Red River Gorge | Sun 6th Aug 2017 | |||||
clean
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5.7 | ★★★ Call of the Wild | 24m, 2 | Red River Gorge | Sat 5th Aug 2017 | |||||
Clean
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5.7 | ★★★ Call of the Wild - with James Bailie | 24m, 2 | Red River Gorge | ★★ Very Good | Thu 28th Mar 2024 | ||||
Fun chimney action
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5.9 | ★★★ Autumn | 24m | Red River Gorge | ★★★ Classic | Tue 1st Oct 2002 | ||||
Nice
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5.9 | ★★★ Autumn - with Sam | 24m | Red River Gorge | ★★★ Classic | Fri 26th Oct 2012 | ||||
Very cool handcrack flake, but I only had one handcrack-sized cam. Channel the inner Honnold.
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5.9 | ★★★ Autumn | 24m | Red River Gorge | Mon 24th Apr 2017 | |||||
Flash but mostly pre placed gear.
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5.8 | ★ Mailbox | 27m | Red River Gorge | Average | Mon 19th Jun 2017 | ||||
Nasty and stout for the grade. Extremely difficult move at the end.
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5.9 | ★★★ Autumn | 24m | Red River Gorge | ★★★ Classic | Sun 24th Sep 2017 | ||||
lovely layback up to the roof. Barely made it through the crux with loads of resting on the rope
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5.9 | ★★★ Autumn - with Paul Frothy Thomson | 24m | Red River Gorge | ★★★ Classic | Wed 11th Dec 2019 | ||||
Awesome warm up hand crack. Trad is rad!
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5.9 | ★★★ Autumn - with Will Vidler | 24m | Red River Gorge | ★★ Very Good | Wed 11th Dec 2019 | ||||
Great jamming with a surprisingly burly crux. I wouldnt want to do this if I was a 5.9 climber... nails!
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5.9 | ★★★ Autumn - with James Bailie | 24m | Red River Gorge | ★★★ Classic | Sat 30th Mar 2024 | ||||
Absolute sinker of handjams at the overhung crack made it so enjoybale. Great way to end a week in Red
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5.9 | ★★★ Autumn | 24m | Red River Gorge | ★★ Very Good | Sat 30th Mar 2024 | ||||
Hung on the ledge because I freaked out. Ran out the end as I used all the cams that fit
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5.6 | ★★★ Diamond In The Crack | 37m | Red River Gorge | ★★★ Classic | Tue 13th Apr 2010 | ||||
Classi for the view and location
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5.7 | ★★ Caver's Excitement | Red River Gorge | ★★ Very Good | Tue 13th Apr 2010 | |||||
Did this variation by accident the 1st time
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5.7 | ★★ Father and Son | 12m | Red River Gorge | Fri 3rd Sep 2004 | |||||
Good fun climb
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5.7 | ★★ Party Time | 43m | Red River Gorge | ★★ Very Good | Tue 13th Jun 2006 | ||||
Placed only 3 pieces on the first pitch, as I kept wasting time and effort screwing around with those darn hexes. It turned out that I only placed #2,3,4 camalots. Dan led the second pitch. I should have set up the first pitch belay anchors a little cleaner, utilizing the mimalist method of clipping in with the rope direct to save on slings that Dan could have used on the second pitch.
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5.8 | ★★ Snake | 18m | Red River Gorge | ★★★ Classic | Fri 11th Jul 1997 | ||||
Very Easy maybe a 5.7-
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5.4 | ★ American Crack | 18m | Red River Gorge | Average | Sun 29th May 2005 | ||||
Megan led this, I cleaned. Tricky start, sandy top.
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5.10a | ★ Runnin' Down a Dream | 23m | Red River Gorge | ★ Good | Sun 24th Oct 2004 | ||||
Undercling!
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5.7 | ★★ Vision | 24m | Red River Gorge | ★ Good | Mon 24th Oct 2005 | ||||
Great Jams
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5.8 | ★★ In to the purple valley | 29m | Red River Gorge | ★★★ Classic | 2002 | ||||
first trad climb
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5.4 | ★ American Crack | 18m | Red River Gorge | Average | Sun 29th May 2005 | ||||
Fun start, sandy top half
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5.9 | ★★ Andromeda Strain | 27m | Red River Gorge | ★★ Very Good | Thu 8th Jun 2006 | ||||
Way burly trad route, really need to work on the liebacking skills. I took a fall off of the route about 5 feet from the top from sheer exhaustion.
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5.6 | ★★★ Diamond In The Crack | 37m | Red River Gorge | ★★ Very Good | Tue 13th Apr 2010 | ||||
Really great multi pitch.
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5.6 | ★★★ Bedtime for Bonzo | 30m | Red River Gorge | ★★★ Classic | 2004 | ||||
Beautiful View
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5.7 | ★★★ Roadside Attraction | 43m | Red River Gorge | ★★ Very Good | Sun 24th Oct 2004 | ||||
Aint nothing but a sweet layback
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5.7 | ★★★ Roadside Attraction | 43m | Red River Gorge | ★★★ Classic | Sat 23rd Jul 2005 | ||||
hope you don't have to stack nuts at the top too
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5.7 | ★★ Environmental Impact | 40m | Red River Gorge | ★ Good | Fri 9th Jun 2006 | ||||
Borrowed a #1 camalot, and 3 wild country tech friends. Now that I could fire in pro near the bottom w/o messing w/ hexes, this sent pretty easily. Placed two #1's in bottom, then threw in the purple hex at the bottom of the wide section. Followed that up with a .75 and #2 camalots near the top.
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5.10a | ★★★ Rock Wars | 24m | Red River Gorge | ★★★ Mega Classic | Tue 14th Mar 2006 | ||||
Amazing Laybacking!! perfect cams the whole way, yellow aliens for like 50 feet!! Then to a no hands rest to a much steeper finish, I managed to drop a cam on this last section.. OOPS!!
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5.8 | ★★★ It Ain't Over Yet | 18m | Red River Gorge | ★★★ Classic | Tue 13th Apr 2010 | ||||
One of the best in the Red for its grade!
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5.7 | ★★ casual viewing | 21m | Red River Gorge | Fri 3rd Sep 2004 | |||||
A block fell off the rock which caused me to fall. If not for this, I would have climbed it clean.
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5.10a | ★★★ Rock Wars | 24m | Red River Gorge | ★★★ Mega Classic | Fri 12th Mar 2004 | ||||
Some consider it to be 10a to the top set of anchors - all I know is it is one amazing incredibly fun climb - and make sure you don't just finish at the bottom set of anchors, the 'in your face' headwall and handcrack to the top set of anchors are as classic as the lower section, and a perfect way to finish the climb.
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5.7 | ★★ Environmental Impact | 40m | Red River Gorge | ★ Good | Fri 9th Jun 2006 | ||||
Small hands to full hands @ switch to slab. Kinda cool, really wigged me out though as I didn't know what to expect and tried to mess around for too long with green and red hexes. I ended up leap frogging a #1 camalot for the bottom section, and never leaving it in the crack. Would send easy with a couple extra #1 camalots and lunch. Placed a red hex at beginning in shallow stopper mode, frogged a #1 camalot, #4 camalot or purple hexentric for the wide section. Threw in a bomber .75 camalot right above, and then a super sweet #2 camalot before the anchors.
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5.7 | ★★★ Roadside Attraction | 43m | Red River Gorge | ★★★ Classic | Fri 6th Jun 2003 | ||||
Awesome! Great area to hang out and learn about the Gorge
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5.6 | ★★★ Bedtime for Bonzo | 30m | Red River Gorge | ★★★ Classic | Sun 29th May 2005 | ||||
I led the first pitch (first trad fall/slide, lowered and got it clean). Boer led the second.
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5.6 | ★★★ Bedtime for Bonzo | 30m | Red River Gorge | Average | Sat 19th Apr 2008 | ||||
awkward and risky p2
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5.7 | ★★★ Roadside Attraction | 43m | Red River Gorge | ★★★ Mega Classic | Thu 1st Mar 2001 | ||||
mega classic if you climb cracks at the red
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5.8 | NEPA This | Red River Gorge | Crap | Wed 1st Jun 2005 | |||||
scary route, wide gear. i only had 3 pieces in 75 feet
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5.7 | ★★★ Roadside Attraction | 43m | Red River Gorge | ★★★ Classic | Tue 13th Apr 2010 | ||||
Great Trad Climb, can go either as one pitch or multi pitch
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5.10a | ★★★ Rock Wars | 24m | Red River Gorge | ★★★ Mega Classic | Tue 12th Apr 2005 | ||||
THE best 10a crack at RRG!!
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5.9 | ★★★ Where Lizards Dare | 23m | Red River Gorge | ★★★ Classic | Tue 13th Apr 2010 | ||||
Hard for the grade
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5.7 | ★★★ Roadside Attraction | 43m | Red River Gorge | ★★★ Classic | Fri 13th Sep 2002 | ||||
That crack gets WIDE at the top!!
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5.8 | ★★ Five Finger Discount | 15m | Red River Gorge | ★★ Very Good | Sun 24th Oct 2004 | ||||
Think Thin With Great Pro
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5.8 | ★★ Bombs Bursting | 18m | Red River Gorge | ★★ Very Good | Tue 13th Jun 2006 | ||||
This route had a lot of pretty darn strenuous liebacking. I got really wigged out and had to take on gear twice. I wasted a lot of time messing around with a blue hexentric near the bottom, and ended up just throwing in my #2 or #3 camalot. The crack was really shallow in some places, and I wasted a lot of time and energy trying to figure out what pieces to place and where. Easy but nerve racking roof section, as I was severely held back by my mental blocks of falling on gear.
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5.7 | ★★★ Roadside Attraction | 43m | Red River Gorge | ★★★ Classic | Mon 1st Jul 2002 | ||||
first trad lead
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5.10d | ★★ Synchronicity | 15m | Red River Gorge | ★★★ Classic | Wed 28th May 2003 | ||||
fun and exciting to push myself to a limit I had not yet experienced!
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5.8 | ★★ Five Finger Discount | 15m | Red River Gorge | ★★ Very Good | Thu 8th Jun 2006 | ||||
First time on it got a little wigged out, had trouble deciding how much gear to place and where. Took a rest on a piece and then moved up a move or two and found a sweet ass ledge that I should have just pulled through to.
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5.6 | ★★★ bed time for bonzo | 30m | Red River Gorge | ★★ Very Good | Sun 23rd May 1999 | ||||
Fun climb, good exposure on 2nd pitch
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5.8 | ★★ Five Finger Discount | 15m | Red River Gorge | ★★ Very Good | Thu 8th Jun 2006 | ||||
Took just the gear I knew I would need, and now that I knew about that sweet ledge and the bomber placements, I flew right through this sweet finger crack. Favorite climb of the trip.
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5.8 | NEPA This | Red River Gorge | Average | Fri 26th Nov 2004 | |||||
off-width grovel
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5.4 | ★ American Crack | 18m | Red River Gorge | ★ Good | Wed 23rd Mar 2005 | ||||
First time on real rock; fun climb after beginning.
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5.10d | ★★ Synchronicity | 15m | Red River Gorge | ★★ Very Good | Sun 14th Oct 2007 | ||||
FINALLY!! Got the Red Point though i was really pumped. Took way too much time placing the gear. Would have liked to do it better.
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5.10a | ★ Runnin' Down a Dream | 23m | Red River Gorge | ★ Good | Sat 23rd Jul 2005 | ||||
thinness at the top is tough when sweaty
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5.8 | ★★ Snake | 18m | Red River Gorge | ★★ Very Good | Tue 13th Jun 2006 | ||||
Flipping out of the OW section was the crux of the route, but I thought the super bomber hand and finger jams made the route pretty darn cool. Placements were much better, but I still noticed significant mental blocks throughout the climb. Placed blue and gold stoppers at the bottom of the OW section, followed by purple, green, silver, and maybe even gold camalots.
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5.6 | ★★★ Bedtime for Bonzo | 30m | Red River Gorge | ★★★ Classic | Sun 29th May 2005 | ||||
Megan led p1, I led p2. Had to take at the crux near the top.
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5.7 | ★★★ Roadside Attraction | 43m | Red River Gorge | ★★ Very Good | Thu 8th Jun 2006 | ||||
Awesome route, but long and commiting as shit for me. Placed almost my entire rack but for nuts and tricams, still was run out though. Really freaked me out like 50-75 feet of C crack traverse. Anchors for the first belay are way the hell up there. Lots of pretty good hexes in camming mode. Not 100% confident in them though, but I wouldn't have been able to climb and protect it otherwise. Was so intent on keeping the #3 camalot on my rack for up top that I never placed it, which was pretty stupid on my part as it would have given me huge piece of mind. Also, instead of rapping off of the tree, I would prefer to rap off the first anchor, would be much safer.
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5.7 | ★ Calypso II | 18m | Red River Gorge | ★★ Very Good | Wed 23rd Mar 2005 | ||||
Nice flakes, however I did not use feet and pumped out making it difficult to pull out the cams.
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5.7 | ★★★ Roadside Attraction | 43m | Red River Gorge | ★★★ Classic | 2003 | ||||
fun climb, great view
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5.9 | ★★ Big Money | 21m | Red River Gorge | ★★ Very Good | Fri 9th Jun 2006 | ||||
Fell on top rope trying to figure out the roof move. Lieback section was super strenuous, and the roof move was super cool. Rest of the route is pretty straightforward after that. Anchors were kinda sketchy. The book says to rappel off a tree but we couldn't find a good tree to rappel from, so we just rapped off the old bolts.
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5.5 | Route 48 | 18m | Red River Gorge | ★ Good | Sun 29th May 2005 | ||||
Funky moves, led by Boer
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5.10d | ★★ Synchronicity | 15m | Red River Gorge | ★★ Very Good | Thu 16th Mar 2006 | ||||
One year later got the lead, maybe anohter year and ill get it clean
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5.6 | ★★★ Bedtime for Bonzo | 30m | Red River Gorge | ★★★ Classic | Tue 13th Apr 2010 | ||||
Bring a light if you try to do a sunset climb
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5.10a | ★★★ Rock Wars | 24m | Red River Gorge | ★★★ Mega Classic | 2004 | ||||
mega classic finger crack of the Red
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5.10a | ★★★ Headstone Surfer - with Neil | 27m | Red River Gorge | Sat 29th Sep 2012 | |||||
Trad climbing! What the?
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5.10a | ★★★ Rock Wars - with Sam | 24m | Red River Gorge | ★★★ Mega Classic | Fri 26th Oct 2012 | ||||
Super fingercrack flake which has been worn smooth by 20+ years of constant traffic. So glorious. Van Halen climbed this.
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5.11b | ★★★ B3 - with Sam | 30m | Red River Gorge | ★★★ Classic | Fri 26th Oct 2012 | ||||
Hardest I worked all day. Pretty epic trad route given 5 stars. Only 1 usable cam for the first 15m. Climbing high twenties sport routes is surely the key to being able to JUST get up something like this
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5.4 5.2 | ★★ Hmmm | 15m | Red River Gorge | ★★ Very Good | Thu 11th Jul 2013 | ||||
Very fun trad climb. Nice little finger crack.
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5.13b 5.13c | ★★★ Sacred Geometry | Red River Gorge | ★★★ Classic | Sun 21st Oct 2012 | |||||
Second Ascent
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5.8 | ★★★ Good Times | 30m | Red River Gorge | ★★ Very Good | Thu 26th Sep 2013 | ||||
Cleaning gear.
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5.10c | ★★ Riptide Ride | 17m | Red River Gorge | ★★ Very Good | Thu 26th Sep 2013 | ||||
Cleaning gear
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5.7 | Old School Chocolate | 17m | Red River Gorge | Average | Sat 19th Apr 2014 | ||||
Good gear low down, but not higher.
Climb seemed far more difficult than the 5.9 sport I climbed first. I took a fall, banged up my right heel, and was done for the trip. X-Rays show no break, though. |
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5.7 | ★★ Father and Son | 12m | Red River Gorge | ★★★ Classic | Sat 26th Oct 2013 | ||||
My first trad fall on a #3!
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5.7 | ★★ Casual Viewing | 21m | Red River Gorge | ★★★ Classic | Sat 26th Oct 2013 | ||||
Excellent line with great gear. Lots of stemming and layback moves.
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5.6 | ★★★ Diamond In The Crack | 37m | Red River Gorge | ★★★ Mega Classic | Thu 31st May 2012 | ||||
An excellent 2 pitch climb. Exciting approach (cross a river).
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5.6 | ★★★ bed time for bonzo | 30m | Red River Gorge | ★★★ Mega Classic | Fri 11th May 2012 | ||||
My first multipitch climb!
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5.6 | ★★★ Bedtime for Bonzo (Bed ime for Bonzo) | 30m | Red River Gorge | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sat 10th Oct 2015 | ||||
An amazing route that is worth the lineup. Fist jam through the crux and stand up top to enjoy the beautiful view! Bring two #3 Camalot C4s for the crux.
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5.8 | ★★ Snake | 18m | Red River Gorge | ★★★ Classic | Sat 10th Oct 2015 | ||||
An excellent route that starts with an awkward off width section and transitions to an enjoyable finger and hand crack section.
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5.9 | ★★★ Blue Runner | 18m | Red River Gorge | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sat 10th Oct 2015 | ||||
This climb has it all! It starts with a pumpy overhang section with some hand jamming and transitions into stemming in a left facing dihedral with a thin crack (bring small gear for this crux section; 000 or 00 Camalot C3 and/or small nuts). It finishes with an off width section. Bring a #5 Camalot C4 to make the moves feel better. Phenomenal climb!
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5.7 | ★ Calypso II | 18m | Red River Gorge | ★ Good | Wed 11th May 2011 | ||||
Fun!
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5.5 | Route 48 | 18m | Red River Gorge | ★★ Very Good | Sat 10th Oct 2015 | ||||
A fun warm up climb.
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5.11a 5.10d | ★★ Synchronicity | 15m | Red River Gorge | ★★ Very Good | Sat 24th Oct 2015 | ||||
It's only crack climbing for the first 4m then back to face.
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5.9 | ★★ Andromeda Strain - with Jayd Blunden | 27m | Red River Gorge | ★ Good | Mon 26th Oct 2015 | ||||
Ummm, nails at 5.9!
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5.7 | ★★★ Roadside Attraction - with Jessie Rushbrooke | 43m | Red River Gorge | ★★ Very Good | Sat 24th Oct 2015 | ||||
Super fun outing,hey Jess
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5.11a | ★★ Synchronicity - with Gareth Llewellin | 15m | Red River Gorge | ★ Good | Sat 24th Oct 2015 | ||||
I wanna be Gareth when I grow up
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