Grade | Route | Gear style | Quality | Climber | |||
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Fri 17th May 2024 - Rumney | |||||||
The Meadows Holderness Buttress | |||||||
5.8 | ★★ Curly for President | 27m, 9 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Waterfall gives you a great mist on a hot day.
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Mon 13th May 2024 - Rumney | |||||||
The Meadows Holderness Buttress | |||||||
5.10d | ★★ Idiots Deluxe | 26m, 10 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
I think I missed some of the jugs
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Mon 13th May 2024 - Rumney | |||||||
The Meadows No Money Down Area | |||||||
5.10a | ★ Mr. Popular | 18m, 6 | Average | ||||
Start is super reach dependent
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Sun 1st Oct 2023 - Rumney | |||||||
The Meadows The Beginner's Wall | |||||||
5.9 | ★★ Lies And Propaganda - with Kate Pechenkina, Jasson | 21m, 7 | |||||
to clean
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5.9 | ★★ Lies And Propaganda - with Kate Pechenkina, Jasson | 21m, 7 | |||||
Very cool, look around for holds
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5.8/9 | ★★ Hippos on Parade - with Kate Pechenkina, Jasson | 15m, 5 | |||||
Traversed left earlier than last time and it was fine
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Sun 1st Oct 2023 - Rumney | |||||||
The Meadows Holderness Buttress | |||||||
5.8 | ★★ Curly for President - with Kate Pechenkina, Jasson | 27m, 9 | |||||
A few sketchy parts but clean lead, not as hard as last time.
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Sun 21st May 2023 - Rumney | |||||||
The Meadows The Beginner's Wall | |||||||
5.10b PG13 | ★ Med Dose Madness - with David Gibbs | 21m, 7 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Had to clean it as nobody else could get past the crimpy stuff today.
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5.10b PG13 | ★ Med Dose Madness - with David Gibbs | 21m, 7 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
I just about freaked out when I saw the spacing between the last two bolts. But I made it in the end. Very happy with this ascent.
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Sun 21st May 2023 - Rumney | |||||||
The Meadows No Money Down Area | |||||||
5.8 | ★ Easy Terms | 14m, 4 | ★ Good | ||||
Not my best try.
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Sun 21st May 2023 - Rumney | |||||||
The Meadows The Beginner's Wall | |||||||
5.10b PG13 | ★ Med Dose Madness | 21m, 7 | |||||
Couldn't pull the steep crimps around bolt 2.
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5.8 | ★★ Bolt Line | 24m, 8 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Would be nice to have a bolt to the right for the start.
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5.8/9 Hard | ★★ Hippos on Parade - with David Gibbs | 15m, 5 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Last climb and I was tired. Couldn't hold on to the good holds at the top...
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5.8/9 Hard | ★★ Hippos on Parade | 15m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
End of the day, and I expected to fall off, but didn't.
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Sun 21st May 2023 - Rumney | |||||||
The Meadows Holderness Buttress | |||||||
5.8 | ★★ Curly for President - with David Gibbs | 27m, 9 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Missed a hold near the top and took a bit of a whipper.
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5.8 Hard | ★★ Curly for President | 27m, 9 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
It was somewhat wet, and I got some air time.
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Wed 17th May 2023 - Rumney | |||||||
The Meadows Holderness Buttress | |||||||
5.12d | ★★★ Hope For Movement — 3 attempts | 30m, 10 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
:'(
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Sun 9th Oct 2022 - Rumney | |||||||
The Meadows No Money Down Area | |||||||
5.7 | ★ False Modesty | 14m, 4 | ★ Good | ||||
Repeat
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Sun 9th Oct 2022 - Rumney | |||||||
The Meadows Apocalypse Walls | |||||||
5.7 | Serenity Now | 15m, 4 | Average | ||||
Repeat
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5.11a | ★★ Supreme Onion Sacrifice | 18m, 5 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
2nd Go
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Sat 8th Oct 2022 - Rumney | |||||||
The Meadows Holderness Buttress | |||||||
5.8 | ★★ Curly for President | 27m, 9 | ★ Good | ||||
Repeat
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5.10d | ★★ Idiots Deluxe | 26m, 10 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Repeat
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Fri 30th Sep 2022 - Rumney | |||||||
The Meadows No Money Down Area | |||||||
5.8 | ★ Easy Terms - with Vic | 14m, 4 | |||||
Dropped my chalk bag halfway up but still made it
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Fri 19th Aug 2022 - Rumney | |||||||
The Meadows The Beginner's Wall | |||||||
5.8 | ★★ Hippos on Parade - with Kate, Yarrow, Fran | 15m, 5 | |||||
Rested at crux. Could lead with practice.
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Fri 19th Aug 2022 - Rumney | |||||||
The Meadows No Money Down Area | |||||||
5.7 | ★ False Modesty | 14m, 4 | |||||
Clean, very tired
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5.9 5.8 | ★ Dung Beetle | 14m, 4 | |||||
Led. Failed at last move trying to go straight up the bulge
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5.8 | ★ Easy Terms | 14m, 4 | |||||
Rested but got to top. Pretty hard, crimpy.
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Fri 19th Aug 2022 - Rumney | |||||||
The Meadows Holderness Buttress | |||||||
5.9 5.8 | ★★ Curly for President | 27m, 9 | |||||
Very anxious about falling, but led cleanly, downclimbed to ledges multiple times, but didn't fall. Remember that you have feet.
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Sat 21st May 2022 - Rumney | |||||||
The Meadows The Beginner's Wall | |||||||
5.8 | ★★ Bolt Line | 24m, 8 | |||||
Départ direct sous la bolt.
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Sat 26th Mar 2022 - Rumney | |||||||
The Meadows No Money Down Area | |||||||
5.10a/b | ★ Repossession | 12m, 4 | |||||
Cold - fingers were too numb to feel the crux. Pretty dry though.
One hang at the crux, which went no problem after some beta and finger warming. |
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5.7 | ★ Truth In Advertising | 15m, 5 | Average | ||||
Dry!
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5.8 | ★ Easy Terms | 14m, 4 | ★ Good | ||||
A bit wet in the middle - made it more interesting.
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Sun 19th Jul 2020 - Rumney | |||||||
The Meadows Holderness Buttress | |||||||
5.11c | ★★ White Rhino | 12m, 4 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Short route but bouldery. three deadpoint movements constantly from the first bolt to second, second to the third, third to the fourth... then top out. fun one.
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Sun 19th Jul 2020 - Rumney | |||||||
The Meadows The Beginner's Wall | |||||||
5.10b | ★★★ Misdemeanor | 33m, 11 | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Long and wild route, endurance needed.
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Sun 19th Jul 2020 - Rumney | |||||||
The Meadows No Money Down Area | |||||||
5.11a 5.11a/b | ★ Student Loan | 18m, 6 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Sent it on my second go. the top part is a little bit wet, and many spider webs on the holds after COVID-19... COOL ROUTE AND ROOF CLIMB THOUGH.
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Thu 7th Nov 2019 - Rumney | |||||||
The Meadows Holderness Buttress | |||||||
5.12b 5.12a/b | ★★★ Flesh For Lulu - with Beatrice | 33m, 11 | |||||
2nd go, almost managed to send it twice for cleaning
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Tue 15th Oct 2019 - Rumney | |||||||
The Meadows Holderness Buttress | |||||||
5.11c | ★★ White Rhino | 12m, 4 | ★ Good | ||||
Short but good climb, comes down to two hard moved on the face, but clipping the anchor from the mossy ledge above may be the scariest part.
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Sun 13th Oct 2019 - Rumney | |||||||
The Meadows The Beginner's Wall | |||||||
5.10b | ★★★ Misdemeanor - with Andy Gnarr | 33m, 11 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
I was tired before I pulled on and it was dark so I top-roped it. I will return again.
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5.8 5.8/9 | ★★ Hippos on Parade - with Andy Gnarr | 15m, 5 | ★ Good | ||||
This felt really easy after 'Lies And Propaganda'
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5.9 | ★★ Lies And Propaganda - with Andy Gnarr | 21m, 7 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Weak arms let me down.
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5.10c | ★★ Cold Turkey | 21m, 7 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Fell in the overhanging section, but made the move on the second try. Interesting climb with a dramatic change of style on the upper slab section.
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5.10b | ★★★ Misdemeanor | 33m, 11 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Ended up leading up in the dark with headlamps as the last climb of the night.
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Sun 4th Aug 2019 - Rumney | |||||||
The Meadows The Beginner's Wall | |||||||
5.8 | ★★ Bolt Line - with Aislinn M. | 24m, 8 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Got a bit off route and clipped the 3rd bolt when it was below my knee... So that was interesting
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Sat 3rd Aug 2019 - Rumney | |||||||
The Meadows The Beginner's Wall | |||||||
5.10b | ★★★ Misdemeanor - with Aislinn M. | 33m, 11 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Due to some misinterpretation of the guide book I thought this was a mellow 5.8 to finish off a good day. I was soon informed otherwise and I'm stoked I stuck it out. This was super fun and I will be back to send it clean.
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Fri 7th Jun 2019 - Rumney | |||||||
The Meadows No Money Down Area | |||||||
5.10b 5.10a/b | ★ Repossession (Reposession) | 12m, 4 | |||||
Hang dog at roof, needed different beta, found move without the side pull. Lock off and go straight up left
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5.10c | ★★ No Money Down | 15m, 5 | |||||
Missed the crux at the top.
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Sun 9th Sep 2018 - Rumney | |||||||
The Meadows No Money Down Area | |||||||
5.10c | ★★ No Money Down | 15m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
on my 2nd burn, hung draws on my 1st burn
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Sun 10th Jun 2018 - Rumney | |||||||
The Meadows No Money Down Area | |||||||
5.12a 5.12a/b | ★ The Payment Plan | 15m, 5 | |||||
Third today
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Mon 23rd May 2016 - Rumney | |||||||
The Meadows Apocalypse Walls | |||||||
5.11c | ★★ Apocalypse Later | 18m, 6 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
5th on 3 seasons
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Sat 26th Mar 2016 - Rumney | |||||||
The Meadows The Beginner's Wall | |||||||
5.9 | ★★ Lies And Propaganda | 21m, 7 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Took a few tries to get the low crux. Upper crux, despite wet holds, went ok.
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Mon 3rd Aug 2015 - Rumney | |||||||
The Meadows Holderness Buttress | |||||||
5.8 | ★★ Curly for President | 27m, 9 | ★ Good | ||||
Easy-going for the first 3 bolts, then gets steeper.
Don't know where I went wrong last time, but went ok this time. |
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Mon 3rd Aug 2015 - Rumney | |||||||
The Meadows The Beginner's Wall | |||||||
5.8 | ★★ Bolt Line | 24m, 8 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Key Beta: after clipping the 2nd bolt step down and left to a rail, and then traverse across this until below or just left-of below the 3rd bolt before heading up.
What I did: after clipping 2nd bolt, followed the natural climbing up and slightly right, then easiest moves up and left, ending up with my feet about 1m above bolt 3. Oops. Now somewhat run-out, I continued following the easiest moves up and left, and end up about 1/2 m above 4th bolt. Double-oops. 5.8X time. Went up to bolt 5. |
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Sat 16th May 2015 - Rumney | |||||||
The Meadows No Money Down Area | |||||||
5.11b 5.11a/b | ★ Student Loan | 18m, 6 | |||||
Thu 2nd Oct 2014 - Rumney | |||||||
The Meadows Holderness Buttress | |||||||
5.12b 5.12a/b | ★★★ Flesh For Lulu | 33m, 11 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Nice technical climbing on polished foot holds. Really fun route anyways
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Thu 2nd Oct 2014 - Rumney | |||||||
The Meadows No Money Down Area | |||||||
5.12a 5.12a/b | ★ The Payment Plan | 15m, 5 | |||||
Good but a little short. Daily onsight of the 3 hardest routes in the meadows (or should it be called the shreadows?) my skin was ruined!
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Thu 2nd Oct 2014 - Rumney | |||||||
The Meadows Holderness Buttress | |||||||
5.12d | ★★★ Hope For Movement | 30m, 10 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Awesome route, really technical f...ing hard onsight!
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Sat 15th Jun 2013 - Rumney | |||||||
The Meadows No Money Down Area | |||||||
5.10a | ★ Mr. Popular | 18m, 6 | Average | ||||
Harder starting crux than 10a
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5.11a 5.11a/b | ★ Student Loan | 18m, 6 | Average | ||||
Wet
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Mon 20th May 2013 - Rumney | |||||||
The Meadows The Beginner's Wall | |||||||
5.8 | ★★ Bolt Line | 24m, 8 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
wet at the bottom, dampish at the top -- this made the lead, and especially the unprotected opening traverse, a lot more exciting than they normally would be. I also managed to miss clipping the 4th bolt to give myself some bonus run-out.
Still, an excellent less-than-vertical technical face climb. |
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Mon 20th May 2013 - Rumney | |||||||
The Meadows No Money Down Area | |||||||
5.7 | ★ Truth In Advertising | 15m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
First half was wet, 2nd half damp, making this a far more interesting and challenging climb than normal. Still, very good climbing and a good lead. It is definitely a good idea to have a long draw to clip the pin hidden in the horizontal between the 3rd & 4th bolt. (No, the climb isn't as run-out as it looks from below, because of the fixed pin.)
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Sat 4th Aug 2012 - Rumney | |||||||
The Meadows The Beginner's Wall | |||||||
5.8 5.8/9 | ★★ Hippos on Parade | 15m, 5 | ★ Good | ||||
Love this rock. Small hands but enough to pull on
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Sat 4th Aug 2012 - Rumney | |||||||
The Meadows No Money Down Area | |||||||
5.10a | ★ Mr. Popular | 18m, 6 | Average | ||||
Rested at the third bolt. Hard start but nice when you get it.
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5.9 | ★ Thou Shalt Not Covet | 15m, 5 | Average | ||||
Went direct at the bulge, backed off and had to rest. Then went to the right round the roof to finish before getting the bulge direct after two more failed tries.
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Sat 4th Aug 2012 - Rumney | |||||||
The Meadows Holderness Buttress | |||||||
5.8 | ★★ Curly for President | 27m, 9 | ★ Good | ||||
Was tired, so failed to get this clean. Need to come back and try again.
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Sat 4th Aug 2012 - Rumney | |||||||
The Meadows The Beginner's Wall | |||||||
5.8 5.8/9 | ★★ Hippos on Parade | 15m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Even several months later, after one ascent, I remembered enough of the beta to do this one fairly easily on lead. Definitely a fun route.
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Sat 4th Aug 2012 - Rumney | |||||||
The Meadows No Money Down Area | |||||||
5.8 | ★ Dung Beetle | 14m, 4 | Average | ||||
Climbing is good, but the positioning of the anchors is very awkward for the finish. If finishing to the right (5.8), very hard to clip. Seems like a compromise to allow the (harder) 5.9+ finish to the left as well, resulting in a poor anchor placement for either finish.
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5.9 | ★ Mr. Popular | 18m, 6 | Average | ||||
Traversed in to the start, after several failed tries at pulling it on the "natural" line. The traverse in, then climb felt like about 5.9.
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5.9 | ★ Thou Shalt Not Covet | 15m, 5 | Average | ||||
Easy climbing until crux right at end. Dunno if I could pull the crux clean on a second try, even.
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Fri 3rd Aug 2012 - Rumney | |||||||
The Meadows No Money Down Area | |||||||
5.10a | ★ Mr. Popular | 18m, 6 | Average | ||||
10a
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Sun 24th Jun 2012 - Rumney | |||||||
The Meadows No Money Down Area | |||||||
5.10a | ★ Mr. Popular | 18m, 6 | |||||
3 tries, hard start #hard
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Sat 23rd Jun 2012 - Rumney | |||||||
The Meadows The Beginner's Wall | |||||||
5.9 | ★★ Lies And Propaganda | 21m, 7 | ★ Good | ||||
Sat 23rd Jun 2012 - Rumney | |||||||
The Meadows Holderness Buttress | |||||||
5.8 | ★★ Curly for President | 27m, 9 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
nice one!
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Sat 16th Jun 2012 - Rumney | |||||||
The Meadows No Money Down Area | |||||||
5.10c | ★★ No Money Down | 15m, 5 | |||||
10c
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Mon 21st May 2012 - Rumney | |||||||
The Meadows No Money Down Area | |||||||
5.7 | ★ Rose Garden | 18m, 6 | ★ Good | ||||
Quite a bit of swing possible if top-roping, and even if following if unclips are done early.
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5.8 | ★ Easy Terms | 14m, 4 | ★ Good | ||||
Was happy to get at least one 5.8 clean. Less pumpy than the other 5.8s I tried, more intricate.
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5.7 | ★ False Modesty | 14m, 4 | ★ Good | ||||
Seemed ok for 5.7 even without the supposed hardest move at the top. In fact, I found some of the earlier moves harder than this nominal crux.
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5.7 | ★ False Modesty | 14m, 4 | ★ Good | ||||
Did it on TR to clean the anchor -- with the final crux mantle above the anchor. This finish didn't seem much harder than other bits -- though down-climbing to back down below the anchor was tricky.
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Mon 21st May 2012 - Rumney | |||||||
The Meadows The Beginner's Wall | |||||||
5.8 5.8/9 | ★★ Hippos on Parade | 15m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
This felt solidly 5.8+ for me -- I had trouble at the crux reading the rock, then after a couple tries managed to figure out the move and pull it pretty easily. Another new to this type of rock issue.
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5.4 5.4/5 | ★ Mom's Pancake | 14m, 4 | ★ Good | ||||
Easy fun.
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Wed 14th Sep 2011 - Rumney | |||||||
The Meadows Holderness Buttress | |||||||
5.8 | ★★ Curly for President | 27m, 9 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Great climb to finish the day
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Fri 25th Sep 2009 - Rumney | |||||||
The Meadows Apocalypse Walls | |||||||
5.11c | ★★ Captain Fingers | 12m, 4 | ★ Good | ||||
super crimpy whole way up with some neat footwork
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Thu 1st Nov 2007 - Rumney | |||||||
The Meadows No Money Down Area | |||||||
5.10c | ★★ No Money Down | 15m, 5 | ★ Good | ||||
my first lead ever
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Thu 4th Oct 2007 - Rumney | |||||||
The Meadows The Beginner's Wall | |||||||
5.9 5.9 R | ★★ Attack of Life | 15m, 2 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
great!
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Sat 8th Sep 2007 - Rumney | |||||||
The Meadows Holderness Buttress | |||||||
5.10c 5.10d | ★★ Idiots Deluxe | 26m, 10 | ★ Good | ||||
Beggining is rather easy and uneventful, but last 25' is fun, pumpy, sustained, & slightly overhanging with lots of jugs...watch out for the wasp nest near start of overhanging area to the left on a great hold. Barely hung on for the last couple moves...woohooo! Can you say forearm burn!
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Sat 30th Jun 2007 - Rumney | |||||||
The Meadows Apocalypse Walls | |||||||
5.4 | Kate's Arete | 12m, 4 | ★ Good | ||||
first lead climb. this climb was actually a lot of fun
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Sat 29th Jul 2006 - Rumney | |||||||
The Meadows No Money Down Area | |||||||
5.7 | ★ Rose Garden | 18m, 6 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
My first lead on sport outdoors!!!!
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5.9 | ★ Thou Shalt Not Covet | 15m, 5 | ★ Good | ||||
Good stuff
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Sat 29th Jul 2006 - Rumney | |||||||
The Meadows Apocalypse Walls | |||||||
5.11b | ★★ Corporal Punishment | 12m, 4 | ★ Good | ||||
Finally!! So good to finish
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Sat 29th Jul 2006 - Rumney | |||||||
The Meadows No Money Down Area | |||||||
5.11b | ★★ The Coveted | 15m, 5 | |||||
hard
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Thu 27th Jul 2006 - Rumney | |||||||
The Meadows Holderness Buttress | |||||||
5.9 5.8 | ★★ Curly for President | 27m, 9 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
One of the best 5.9s at Rumney
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Sat 1st Jul 2006 - Rumney | |||||||
The Meadows The Beginner's Wall | |||||||
5.8 | ★★ Bolt Line | 24m, 8 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Again this was the first climb of the entire trip for me. This time I had climbing shoes that fit though...
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Sat 1st Jul 2006 - Rumney | |||||||
The Meadows No Money Down Area | |||||||
5.7 | ★ Rose Garden | 18m, 6 | ★ Good | ||||
Nice easy climb
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5.7 | ★ Truth In Advertising | 15m, 5 | ★ Good | ||||
Fun easy
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5.9 5.10a | ★ Mr. Popular | 18m, 6 | ★ Good | ||||
Rewarding opening move.
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Tue 27th Jun 2006 - Rumney | |||||||
The Meadows No Money Down Area | |||||||
5.10c | ★★ No Money Down | 15m, 5 | ★ Good | ||||
wet thank god hold after crux foiled the O.S.
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Thu 15th Jun 2006 - Rumney | |||||||
The Meadows The Beginner's Wall | |||||||
5.10a | ★ Rhino Bucket | 24m, 8 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Tricky Beginning and Tricky Clips
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Thu 15th Jun 2006 - Rumney | |||||||
The Meadows Holderness Buttress | |||||||
5.10c 5.10d | ★★ Idiots Deluxe | 26m, 10 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
5.8 climbing till you hit the face climb toward the top. watch for bees!
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Mon 5th Jun 2006 - Rumney | |||||||
The Meadows The Beginner's Wall | |||||||
5.10c | ★★ Cold Turkey | 21m, 7 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Very sequency at the start, crux is the bulge about 20ft. up, Then the rest is smooth sailing
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Sat 27th May 2006 - Rumney | |||||||
The Meadows The Beginner's Wall | |||||||
5.9 | ★★ Lies And Propaganda | 21m, 7 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Pumpy climb and good fun
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Sun 21st May 2006 - Rumney | |||||||
The Meadows The Beginner's Wall | |||||||
5.9 | ★★ Lies And Propaganda | 21m, 7 | ★ Good | ||||
Difficult start with a great finish through an overhang.
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