Routes as trad in Utah

This is a fun wide climb that works all of the sizes in a dihedral. It starts at tight hands and rough calcite, but quickly widens and cleans up. There are a couple of rests to milk, but be ready for a long stretch of 9" wriggling! The crack briefly widens to nearly 12" just before some features force you outside before a final mantle to the anchor ledge. This protects well with a BD #8 slid up behind the constriction.

There is a newer 2nd pitch that goes at 5.9 up the chimney to the top of the tower (or rim? I need to go back and climb this. I forgot which side Devin & Pamela said it topped out on).

1x70m rope works. A 60 might, but I would be careful with that.

Immediately left of Rust Pin, corner to left face finish.

Rack 0.1-0.75

Low angle face to corner. Step across and traverse right trending crack below knifeblade ridge. Finish through notch gaining prominent ledge, gear anchor.

Rack: nuts, #0.1-#2

Route just left of and sharing start of '5/15/37'. Hands splitter to ledge then up left facing corner.

small hands

Thin fingers. Harder than it looks!

Standard Rack, rappel off.

Fist- offwidth(ish) route left of obvious corner. Full value for the grade with occasional holds. Slung horn for anchor. Rack: single #.75-#3, #4 x2, optional #5?, nuts for the topout.

Approach:

1. NOT recommended: climbing loose vegetated terrain directly below route.

2. Hike/Scramble class III/IV terrain right of route. Ascend until narrow cat walk is gained accessing a ledge midway and right of route. Rappel from tree to base of route.

Descent: rappel to fixed anchor near base of route.

1 fixed piton low, standard rack.

Wide crack climbs through the large pod.

Standard rack & wide gear?

Ascend cracks further left. Finish through pod & double cracks.

Standard Rack

Left angling seam on slab with pockets & face holds. Excellent protection & superb climbing for the grade. Build anchor at ledge or sling horn at top.

Rack: Small cams to #1, small nuts/ballnuts.

Approach:

1. Climb Chouinard crack routes, from top locate large pine tree in chute immediately west.

2. Continue scrambling up gully past the Chouinard's Crack cat walk to large pine tree.

Descend: wall off or rappel from Chouinard's Crack.

Offwidth, layback & faceholds. Build anchor.

Rack: Bigbros, chockstone, #.75-#3

Approach: Continue up approach gully east of Chouinard's Crack.

Ascends arete right of chimney.

Standard Rack

Climbs crack & face above Chouinard's Chimney.

Standard Rack

Descent: walk off

Traverse roof left exiting on hand crack. Loose & vegetated, natural anchor.

Standard Rack

Approach:

Continue up approach gully past Chouinard's Chimney. Take right fork at the split.

Descent:

Walk off north.

Disconnected cracks up center of slab. Natural anchor, walk off.

Standard Rack.

Ascends left side of face, tricky placements.

Standard Rack.

Hands turn to off-fingers in a flare

Off-fingers with face holds, then hands which turn into off-fingers without face holds in the upper third of the route.

Potential mixed lines exist within the waterfall basin.

Ascends east flank of final needle through a low angled corner and roof.

Rack small to #1

Fun stemming up a dihedral below the cable traverse. Can be easily toproped.

Climbs the steep, lichen covered crack system just left of the Orange crush dihedral.

Follows black streaked crack.

From the start of Graffiti Ridge, continue north along base following faint climber's trail. The Spa Crag houses 4 5-easy trad lines. These were developed by a local community member involved with SPI, S&R, and Weber State programs so please be respectful and move on if training groups are present.

There are 4 routes <5.5 with fixed anchors.

Direct start var. to Diamond Spire: 1 or 2 pitches climbing west flank of The Diamond cliff formation. Begin right and up gully from Diamond Direct following decent yet questionable broken slab face, bushy Class III/IV terrain, then finishing on Diamond Spire west face.

Descend: repel & walk off east gully.

Standard rack to #3.

The easiest way up the rock, it's a friction scramble from the back-side of the rock

Airy scramble up the fin, passing a bulge at half height with a mantle move

Climbs the western side of the butte, wandering.

Mainly a hike that wanders and zig-zags to avoid the cliffs, but does have some class 4 climbing at the first cliff-line, and class 3 climbing at the 2nd and 3rd cliff-line.

The final summit pyramid is a steep loose scree run. You can follow cairns for the most part.

Most will free solo the class 4 sections, but some might like a handline.

1. As for Macabre Wall

2. Follow Variation corner. Once above Roof 2 build anchor.

3. 15m. 5.5-5.7: Traverse left either across face or up and over from corner. Aim for south facing dihedral near small tree.

4. 15m. 5.5: Continue up dihedral building belay on top.

5. 25m. 5.8: Ascend loose, horizontal breaks. After the moderate flake section, build belay.

6. 20m. 5.8: Finish on face above eventually gaining easier terrain.

Rack #0.4-#3 & nuts

1. 40m. 5.10-: Begin as for Macabre Wall Proper.

2. 40m. 5.5-5.7: Continue along left angling corner staying left of second roof.

3. 40m. 5.5-5.7: After passing roof 2 follow face or corner to dihedral left of Macabre roof.

4. 20m. 5.9: Follow dihedral to easier terrain above.

Var: Follow next dihedral to the left. 5.6.

1. 15m. 5.6: Moderate broken terrain to topout.

Rack #0.2-#3 & nuts.

1. 40m. 5.10-: Ascend face right of south facing corner. Either pull through 5ft roof or climb roof apex at right side. Build belay above on ledge.

2. 40m. 5.10+: Move belay ~80ft up and slightly right aiming for the 8ft hand crack roof. Belay above on ledge. Var: bypass roof via broken terrain on either side. 5.5.

3. 35m. 5.6: Mild pitch on broken terrain. Head up and slightly right. Finish on ledge below 15ft hand jam roof.

4. 20m. 5.11+: Jam through roof and build belay above. Var: Finger crack left of roof through corner. 5.8.

5. 30m. 5.12a/b: Follow flake and hand/thin hand crack through 40ft Macabre roof. Pull roof at notch and belay in alcove above with piton and fixed nut.

Var 1: Climbs arete immediately left of roof using horizontal breaks. 5.8.

Var 2: Finish on corner right of roof. 5.5.

1. 5.6: Moderate broken terrain to topout.

Rack doubles #0.1-#3

Big, wide crack that you don't really need to jam at all as the edge of the crack and face features allow you to layback the shit out of it. Swing over and toprope it from To Boo, or Not to Boo if you didn't lug the big gear up the approach.

The obvious wide corner crack to the left of To Boo, or Not to Boo.

Standard rack with emphasis on wide gear. 2 bolt anchor at top.

Before Saving Ryan's Privates. Keep your eyes left through as you walk from the Stage to the Cinema, looking for a varied slabby crack. It is angled behind you - not perfectly perpendicular to the path, as you walk between both crags. (ie. you basically have to turn around to see it.)

Highly recommended crack for new trad leaders. Varied, slabby, lots of face holds and spots to rest.

Finger to hands crack west and across gully from base of Air to Spare.

Rack to #3

Mixed multi-pitch adventure climbing with excellent exposure and position near the northern mouth of Willard canyon, (41.4166362, -112.0169922). Walk into canyon then switchback near conifer tree on north side to traverse talus to base of route. Bolted belays unless noted.

70m rope, 12 draws & single rack #.4-#2.

1. 9 bolts. 40m. 5.8+: Crux pitch follows arete.

2. 5 bolts. 25m. Bolt to start pitch. Follow traversing crack to finish on bolts.

3. 4 bolts. 20m. Climbs face directly above belay.

4. 3 bolts. 30m. Continue on face. Gear belay on slab below roof.

5. 2 bolts. 25m. Finish on corner gaining chain belay above roof.

Egress: 3 Rappels to descent gully, 2nd is down & left.

Mantle moves ascending prow face left of Black Streak.

Approach: As for Black Streak ice climb.

Rack #0.2-#4

"Through hardships to the Stars"