Grade | Route | Gear style | Crag | Quality | Date | |||
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Unknown | ||||||||
5.11a |
The Grey Matter
![]() | Franklin Gorge | Average | Mon 12th Apr 2010 | ||||
5.10d |
★★ Hello
![]() | Franklin Gorge | ★★★ Classic | Mon 12th Apr 1993 | ||||
5.10a |
★ Burcham's Beach
![]() | Franklin Gorge | ★★★ Classic | Sun 12th Apr 1992 | ||||
5.9 |
Hand Job
![]() | Franklin Gorge | Crap | Thu 12th Apr 2012 | ||||
5.10a |
★★★ Iroquois League (Iroquois Lieague)
![]() | 73m | Nelson Rocks | ★★★ Mega Classic | Fri 12th Aug 1994 | |||
Climbed what may have been the second or third ascent with George powell, the man who established the line, and Melissa Wine, the lass who helped me put up routes in Smoke Hole Canyon and Franklin.
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5.8 |
★ Block Party
![]() | 14m | Seneca | Sat 3rd Jul 1993 | ||||
5.9 |
★★ Electric Chair
![]() | 21m | Seneca | ★★★ Classic | Thu 28th Jul 1994 | |||
5.9 |
★★★ Climbin' Punishment
![]() | 70m | Seneca | ★★★ Classic | Tue 28th Sep 1993 | |||
5.7 |
★★ Rhododendron Corner
![]() | 30m | Seneca | ★ Good | Wed 6th Oct 1993 | |||
5.7 |
★★ Gephardt-Dufty
![]() | 91m | Seneca | ★★★ Classic | Tue 28th Sep 1993 | |||
5.8 |
★★ Ye Gods and Little Fishes
![]() | 27m | Seneca | ★★★ Mega Classic | Tue 28th Sep 1993 | |||
5.4 |
★ Humphrey's Head
![]() | 12m | Seneca | Sat 24th Dec 1994 | ||||
Did the route in full conditions; 29 F with snow, 15-25 mph winds, near dark.
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5.2 |
★ Old Ladies' Route
![]() | 84m | Seneca | ★★★ Classic | Wed 10th Aug 1994 | |||
5.7 |
★★ Prune
![]() | 94m | Seneca | ★★ Very Good | Wed 21st Aug 1991 | |||
5.9 |
★★ Bring on the Nubiles
![]() | 73m | Seneca | ★★ Very Good | Sun 24th Sep 1995 | |||
5.5 |
★★ Thais
![]() | 110m | Seneca | ★★★ Mega Classic | Wed 18th May 1994 | |||
5.8 |
★★ Tomato
![]() | 47m | Seneca | ★★★ Classic | Mon 3rd Oct 1994 | |||
5.0 |
Worrell's Thicket
![]() | 49m | Seneca | ★★★ Classic | Wed 5th Oct 1994 | |||
5.8 |
★★ Lichen or Leave It
![]() | 30m | Seneca | ★★ Very Good | Wed 14th Oct 1992 | |||
5.9 |
★★ Streptococcus
![]() | 15m | Seneca | ★★ Very Good | Wed 12th Oct 1994 | |||
Trad | ||||||||
5.8 |
FA
★★ Super Natural
![]() | 21m | Reed's Creek | ★★ Very Good | Wed 23rd Dec 2009 | |||
5.9 |
★★ New Yosemite
![]() | 18m | New River Gorge | ★★★ Mega Classic | Tue 22nd Sep 1992 | |||
5.7 |
Fat Boy's Pork Palace
![]() | Franklin Gorge | ★ Good | Tue 25th Dec 2007 | ||||
Who decided this route was called "Fat Boy's"? Ed Begoon and Mike Artz put up a route named Fat Boys several decades ago, and this is NOT it. If you don't know the name, DON'T make one up... you only reveal your ignorance regarding local climbing history.
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5.7 |
Fat Boy's Pork Palace
![]() | Franklin Gorge | ★ Good | Thu 12th Apr 2012 | ||||
This AIN'T Fat Boys Pork Palace. That name was given to another route over a decade before this line was climbed by anyone on this site, at least one of whom whoud know better. The line was dubbed "Franklin Traditions" by the guy who installed the anchor; yours truly. No FA info is available, but the founders of this crag (John Burcham, Eric Anderson, Ed Begoon, Mike Artz, George Powell, etc) had no knowledge of the routes existance or any personal ascents on the line.
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5.9 |
★★★ Jake the Snake (unknown #9)
![]() | 13m | Franklin Gorge | ★★★ Classic | Tue 10th Jan 2012 | |||
5.5 5.5 R |
Mama Said
![]() | 12m | Reed's Creek | Fri 14th Oct 2016 | ||||
5.8 |
Ann's Revenge
![]() | 18m | New River Gorge | Don't Bother | Tue 22nd Sep 1992 | |||
5.9 |
★★★ Four Sheets To The Wind
![]() | 21m | New River Gorge | ★★★ Mega Classic | Tue 22nd Sep 1992 | |||
5.7 |
Jumpin' Jack Flash
![]() | 15m | New River Gorge | ★★★ Classic | Tue 22nd Sep 1992 | |||
5.7 |
★★ New River Gunks
![]() | 20m | New River Gorge | ★★★ Classic | Wed 23rd Sep 1992 | |||
5.9 |
★ The Contortionist
![]() | 18m | New River Gorge | ★★★ Classic | Wed 23rd Sep 1992 | |||
5.10a |
★★ The Entertainer
![]() | 21m | New River Gorge | ★★★ Mega Classic | Wed 23rd Sep 1992 | |||
5.7 |
★★★ Ecstasy
![]() | 69m | Seneca | Fri 28th Oct 1994 | ||||
5.8 |
★★ The Burn
![]() | 29m | Seneca | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sun 3rd Oct 1993 | |||
5.8 |
★★★ Triple S
![]() | 27m | Seneca | Tue 28th Sep 1993 | ||||
5.9 |
★★ Marshall's Madness
![]() | 50m | Seneca | ★★★ Mega Classic | Mon 4th Oct 1993 | |||
Tricky, challenging, nerve-wracking and worth every second.
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5.10a |
★★★ Crack of Dawn
![]() | 49m | Seneca | ★★★ Mega Classic | Tue 26th Sep 1995 | |||
5.4 |
★★ Le Gourmet
![]() | 75m | Seneca | ★★★ Classic | Mon 16th Oct 1995 | |||
5.6 |
★ Front C
![]() | 14m | Seneca | Mon 12th Aug 1991 | ||||
5.2 |
★ Old Man's Route
![]() | 98m | Seneca | ★★★ Classic | Fri 29th Sep 1995 | |||
5.7 |
★ Traffic Jam
![]() | 12m | Seneca | Tue 23rd Aug 1994 | ||||
5.6 |
★★ Critter Crack
![]() | 14m | Seneca | ★★ Very Good | Tue 22nd Sep 1992 | |||
5.7 |
★★ Crispy Critter
![]() | 15m | Seneca | ★★ Very Good | Tue 22nd Sep 1992 | |||
5.3 |
★★ Conn's West
![]() | 41m | Seneca | ★★★ Classic | Thu 27th Aug 1992 | |||
5.7 |
★★★ West Pole
![]() | 41m | Seneca | ★★★ Mega Classic | Wed 27th Sep 1995 | |||
5.7 |
★★★ Green Wall
![]() | 69m | Seneca | Wed 18th Oct 1995 | ||||
Led the route in darkness, without headlamp, because I wasn't going to wait four to six hours for the full moon to come over the top.
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5.3 |
★★ Gunsight to South Peak
![]() | 30m | Seneca | ★★★ Classic | Thu 12th Aug 1993 | |||
Melissa's first trad lead. she would go on to onsight 5.11s on bolts, and put up 5.9s on trad, ground up.
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Sport | ||||||||
5.11d 5.11c/d |
★★★ Chineese Aritmetic
![]() | 27m, 11 | Reed's Creek | ★★★ Classic | Fri 14th Oct 2016 | |||
5.9 |
★★ Second Fiddle
![]() | 26m, 10 | Reed's Creek | ★★ Very Good | Fri 14th Oct 2016 | |||
5.9 |
★★ Blood, Sweat, & Chalk
![]() | 9 | Franklin Gorge | ★★★ Mega Classic | Fri 15th Sep 1995 | |||
5.11b |
★★★ Barnacle Bill
![]() | 21m, 9 | Franklin Gorge | ★★★ Mega Classic | Thu 12th Apr 2012 | |||
5.9 |
★★ Stop The Presses
![]() | 22m, 9 | Reed's Creek | Fri 14th Oct 2016 | ||||
5.6 |
★ Second Rule
![]() | 21m, 9 | Reed's Creek | Thu 14th Oct 2010 | ||||
5.10c |
★ Break the Chain
![]() | 18m, 8 | Franklin Gorge | ★★★ Mega Classic | Mon 12th Apr 1993 | |||
5.9 |
FA
★★ The Last Laugh
![]() | 23m, 8 | Franklin Gorge | ★★ Very Good | Tue 12th Jun 2007 | |||
5.10 5.10 A - B |
★★ Still Laughing
![]() | 18m, 8 | Reed's Creek | ★★ Very Good | Thu 14th Aug 2008 | |||
5.10 |
FA
★★ Still Laughing
![]() | 18m, 8 | Reed's Creek | ★★ Very Good | Wed 14th Oct 2009 | |||
5.10a 5.10c |
★ Apophis
![]() | 21m, 8 | Reed's Creek | ★★ Very Good | Mon 11th Jul 2011 | |||
5.10a |
★ Block Magic
![]() | 18m, 8 | Reed's Creek | ★★ Very Good | Tue 29th Oct 2013 | |||
5.10c |
★ One Page at a Time
![]() | 19m, 8 | Reed's Creek | ★★ Very Good | Mon 7th Sep 2009 | |||
5.8 |
FA
★★★ Winter Harvest
![]() | 19m, 8 | Reed's Creek | ★★★ Classic | Tue 23rd Nov 2010 | |||
5.10a |
★ Squeal Like A Pig
![]() | 17m, 7 | Franklin Gorge | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sun 1st Apr 2012 | |||
5.12a |
★★ Dynosaurus
![]() | 18m, 7 | Franklin Gorge | ★★★ Mega Classic | Fri 12th Apr 1991 | |||
5.9 |
FA
★ Aloha
![]() | 15m, 7 | Franklin Gorge | ★★ Very Good | Mon 12th Apr 1993 | |||
5.10a |
FA
★ Franklinstein
![]() | 19m, 7 | Franklin Gorge | Average | Sun 12th Apr 1998 | |||
5.10c |
★★ Decompression Sickness
![]() | 7 | Franklin Gorge | ★★★ Mega Classic | Thu 12th Apr 2012 | |||
5.11b |
★★ Walk The Plank
![]() | 7 | Franklin Gorge | ★★ Very Good | Thu 12th Apr 2012 | |||
5.9 |
★★★ Shipwrecked
![]() | 23m, 7 | Franklin Gorge | ★★★ Classic | Fri 22nd Sep 1995 | |||
5.10c |
★ Golden Horseshoe
![]() | 19m, 7 | Reed's Creek | ★★ Very Good | Tue 6th Jul 2010 | |||
5.11d |
★★ Hunter's Moon
![]() | 19m, 7 | Reed's Creek | ★★★ Classic | Fri 14th Oct 2016 | |||
5.8 |
★★ Theives In The Temple
![]() | 21m, 7 | Reed's Creek | ★★★ Classic | Wed 14th Oct 2009 | |||
5.10c |
★★★ El Machina
![]() | 19m, 7 | Reed's Creek | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sat 14th Nov 2015 | |||
5.11b |
FA
★★★ Disorientation 101
![]() | 16m, 7 | Reed's Creek | ★★★ Classic | Wed 14th Oct 2009 | |||
Established and worked the line on lead and TR until shoulder failed. Made it through but could never link the moves without falling.
Then the Renovator, Ryan Eubank, crushed the moves and sent the first free ascent after a full day of trail work and a beer at the first Reed Creek Trail Daze and Send-a-thon. |
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5.8 |
FA
★★ Internal Dialogue
![]() | 16m, 7 | Reed's Creek | ★★★ Mega Classic | Mon 4th May 2009 | |||
5.10d |
★ Route of All Evil
![]() | 7 | Franklin Gorge | ★★★ Classic | Mon 16th Aug 2010 | |||
5.10c |
★★ Two Blind Mice
![]() | 19m, 6 | Franklin Gorge | ★★★ Classic | Sun 1st Apr 2012 | |||
5.6 |
★ Sticks & Stones
![]() | 18m, 6 | Franklin Gorge | ★★ Very Good | Sat 12th Apr 2008 | |||
5.10c |
★★★ Moment Of Clarity
![]() | 20m, 6 | Franklin Gorge | ★★★ Classic | Sat 12th Apr 2008 | |||
5.9 |
FA
★★ Wintermute
![]() | 20m, 6 | Franklin Gorge | ★★ Very Good | Thu 12th Apr 2007 | |||
5.10 |
★★★ Reaching Conclusions
![]() | 19m, 6 | Reed's Creek | ★★★ Classic | Sun 23rd Aug 2009 | |||
5.10 |
FA
★★★ Reaching Conclusions
![]() | 19m, 6 | Reed's Creek | ★★★ Classic | Fri 14th Oct 2016 | |||
5.9 |
★ Little Purple Flowers
![]() | 17m, 6 | Reed's Creek | Fri 14th Oct 2016 | ||||
5.9 |
FA
★ Gypsies
![]() | 15m, 6 | Reed's Creek | ★★ Very Good | Fri 17th Jun 2011 | |||
First line bolted on this wall.
A bit sandy to start, nothing wrong with a stick clip for the first bolt, or leaving a 'biner to bail. Gear is cheap, broken bones expensive. |
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5.10- |
FA
★★ Dangerous Freedoms
![]() | 19m, 6 | Reed's Creek | ★★ Very Good | Sat 29th Aug 2009 | |||
5.10- |
FA
★★ Dangerous Freedoms
![]() | 19m, 6 | Reed's Creek | ★★ Very Good | Sun 14th Nov 2010 | |||
5.10a |
FA
★★ Bridgeburners
![]() | 17m, 6 | Reed's Creek | ★★★ Mega Classic | Tue 14th Sep 2010 | |||
5.10 |
FA
★★★ Angelfire
![]() | 6 | Reed's Creek | ★★★ Classic | Fri 21st May 2010 | |||
From such crumbly beginnings, a great route emerges.
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5.11a |
★ Catfish Stanglehold
![]() | 16m, 6 | Reed's Creek | Sat 9th Nov 2013 | ||||
5.10a |
FA
Odysseus
![]() | 16m, 5 | Franklin Gorge | ★★ Very Good | Sun 1st Apr 2012 | |||
5.10b |
★★ Potential Energy
![]() | 15m, 5 | Franklin Gorge | ★★★ Mega Classic | Tue 12th Apr 1994 | |||
5.10c |
★ Eddie's 10c Roof
![]() | 5 | Franklin Gorge | ★★ Very Good | Sun 12th Apr 1992 | |||
5.10 |
★ Almost Heaven
![]() | 5 | Franklin Gorge | ★★ Very Good | Tue 12th Jun 2007 | |||
5.10d |
★★ Super Amazing Sea Monkeys
![]() | 10m, 5 | Franklin Gorge | ★★ Very Good | Tue 12th Apr 1994 | |||
5.8 |
FA
★ Belly of The Whale
![]() | 10m, 5 | Franklin Gorge | ★★ Very Good | Fri 25th Dec 1992 | |||
The first route I bolted at Franklin. Originally a bit contrived, I never stemmed or touched the arete to the right... but you can climb it any way you like and enjoy!
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5.10a |
★★ Room with a View (unknown #6)
![]() | 12m, 5 | Franklin Gorge | ★ Good | Fri 21st Jun 1991 | |||
5.8 |
★★ Buckaroo
![]() | 18m, 5 | Reed's Creek | Fri 14th Oct 2016 | ||||
5.9 |
★ Rain
![]() | 16m, 5 | Reed's Creek | Don't Bother | Fri 14th Oct 2016 | |||
5.9 |
FA
★ Shaved Scamper
![]() | 15m, 5 | Reed's Creek | ★★★ Classic | Sun 6th Feb 2011 | |||
5.8 |
FA
★★ Little Khumbu
![]() | 15m, 5 | Reed's Creek | ★★ Very Good | Sun 22nd Jun 2014 | |||
5.7 |
Roll The Dice
![]() | 16m, 5 | Reed's Creek | Fri 14th Oct 2011 |