Ascents in Arch Rock having Beta

Set off for this one at 4pm with gen on what was supposed to be my rest day. I was imagining sporty cracks but in reality yosemite multis are rarely just sporty cracks and this one turned out to be 90% v-groove thrash. There were some doubtful moments as the sunline travelled slowly up the hill behind us and light faded 2 pitches from the top but i got to have a lash at the top in bright enough conditions (i wish i could use that as an excuse for not sending). Heartbreaker flared finger jam slip 4m under the chains. Gens answers as to why i was rushing us so much lower down were revealed at the top: i forgot my headtorch. She lent me her phone torch and we rapped to the ground and ate a depressing 10pm dinner in camp 4.5 parking lot.

Quality route. And burly too! It's official though. 5.11a is easier than 5.9+ in the valley.

Got on this as my first route in the valley. Heinous. Still have the gobies a full week later.

bailed after trying to pull through on gear at offwidth crux

Follow clean P1, onsight lead P2/P3 linked with double ropes

the second and third pitches are tops. With Keith and Jack

think of rickety kate but overhanging and leaning and then add a 20 degree overhanging handcrack and then a grade 19 offwidth all with zero rests!! this route rules. I haven't been this tired after a climb for a while. (With Keith and Jack)

This climb has it all. Even some poison oak after the squeeze chimney.

Stout

Yeah Gripped with a hangover