Ascents in Five and Dime Cliff having Beta

J and I were the only ones stupid enough to crag here in the sun during a heatwave so we had the crag to ourselves. That was until J was halfway up the finger crack and a shirtless fella stumbled out of the trees asking what the climbs here were. Proceeded to lay on a rock beside my belay spot, staring into the sun like a lizard, he introduced himself as Hans - asked me where I was from, what the Aussie climbing was like and telling me about his time in Araps and the Bluies. He then without a word stumbled back into the bushes. I had to Google to check if new grandpa Hans was the Hans (Florine), which he was. J returned to Earth and I sprayed about what just happened - only for more rustling in the bushes and back comes Hans with Yuji Hirayama behind him. We shared the crag for the rest of the afternoon with some very entertaining discussion while trading belays. Yuji made comments about his lack of hand jam endurance on five and dime which made me feel better after dogging the fuck out of it after Hans exclaimed "show us what you got Mr Frog Buttress"

Remove the X maybe up the grade to 5.10 ambiguous

Rope was getting in the way

Sick OW to #6 - definitely not X let alone R rated, not sure why it says that here?

Fuck wideboyz crack gloves, would be better off using banana peels strapped onto the back of your hands with duck tape

I must've started too high or this is truly a one move 12a that I bypassed the Crux of? Definitely on the right line according to MP but felt way too easy for 12a

Pretty fun pitch with amazing views!

Interesting line. Starts as a full on chimney, then climb on knobs on the side walls, then a normal crack near the top. Gear is consistently good.

Different than anything else I’ve done in Yosemite. Amazing line but I don’t think the plates at the top are going to be there forever. Note there are now mussy hooks at the anchor (Oct/23).

Found this one very tricky in the dry. Super impressed to see Fraser flash it in the pouring rain.

A great climb, not as sustained as other reviews may indicate only ~5m of tricky moves. Once again climbed in a light drizzle so all the jams and locks were a little slippery

after trying to drive to glacier point apron and getting accidentally booted out of the valley loop after 1h45, long weekends are fun

Almost seems like someone did the routesetting on this one. Great juggy moves all round!

Had so much fun I took an extra go for the redpoint.

Hard for grade!

Not so fun in the wet

Nice, varied route. Lots of options for gear.

Little bit thrutchy but I made it up! Good (if flaring) jams.

A good every size crack climb. From fingers to chimney.

When toproping do not use handholds. Use only jams/chimney technique and stemming. It's better to build your style then collect yet another "clean done" climb.

Extremely well protected easy sport route. Take 11 draws and send it.

solid 5.8 & physical