Grade | Route | Gear style | Quality | Climber | Date | |||
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Southeast Face | ||||||||
5.10b | ★★★ East Buttress | 440m | Fri 21st Jun 2002 | |||||
5.10b | ★★★ East Buttress | 440m | ★★★ Classic | Tue 13th Apr 2010 | ||||
lead crux
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5.10b | ★★★ East Buttress | 440m | ★ Good | Mon 6th May 2002 | ||||
5.10b | ★★★ East Buttress | 440m | Tue 13th Apr 2010 | |||||
5.10b | ★★★ East Buttress | 440m | ★★★ Classic | Mon 1st Sep 1997 | ||||
5.10b | ★★★ East Buttress | 440m | ★★ Very Good | Sat 3rd Jul 2004 | ||||
5.10b | ★★★ East Buttress | 440m | ★ Good | Sat 14th Jun 2003 | ||||
5.10b | ★★★ East Buttress | 440m | ★★ Very Good | Sun 1st Jun 2003 | ||||
5.10b | ★★★ East Buttress | 440m | ★★ Very Good | Sun 10th Aug 2003 | ||||
Lot's of fun
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5.10b | ★★★ East Buttress | 440m | Tue 13th Apr 2010 | |||||
5.10b | ★★★ East Buttress | 440m | 2001 | |||||
5.10b | ★★★ East Buttress | 440m | Sat 1st May 2004 | |||||
Simul-climbed in a couple of hours
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5.10b | ★★★ East Buttress | 440m | ★★★ Classic | Sat 18th Oct 2008 | ||||
with Ben. We got snowed on and ben was in shorts!
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5.10b | ★★★ East Buttress | 440m | ★★★ Mega Classic | Tue 8th Jul 2003 | ||||
5.10b | ★★★ East Buttress | 440m | ★★★ Classic | 2001 | ||||
superb
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5.10b | ★★★ East Buttress | 440m | Sun 19th May 2002 | |||||
<10 hours car to car
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5.10b | ★★★ East Buttress | 440m | Tue 13th Apr 2010 | |||||
5.10b | ★★★ East Buttress | 440m | ★★★ Classic | Tue 13th Apr 2010 | ||||
Pretty long day, very good. You can link many pitches. A nice way is to solo the first pitch which is really 4th class, and then link the next two pitches - that way you're not doing the 5.10b section off of a belay made of rusty pins.
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5.10b | ★★★ East Buttress | 440m | ★★★ Mega Classic | Tue 1st Jun 2004 | ||||
5.10b | ★★★ East Buttress | 440m | 2004 | |||||
5.10b | ★★★ East Buttress | 440m | Tue 13th Apr 2010 | |||||
5.10b | ★★★ East Buttress | 440m | ★★★ Mega Classic | 2003 | ||||
5.10b | ★★★ East Buttress | 440m | ★★★ Mega Classic | Tue 1st Oct 2002 | ||||
5.10b | ★★★ East Buttress | 440m | ★★★ Mega Classic | Thu 1st May 2008 | ||||
5.10b | ★★★ East Buttress | 440m | ★★★ Mega Classic | Fri 15th Aug 2003 | ||||
unreal!
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5.10b | ★★★ East Buttress | 440m | ★★★ Mega Classic | 1991 | ||||
A mega experience and a shit load of fun
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5.10b | ★★★ East Buttress | 440m | Tue 13th Apr 2010 | |||||
5.10b | ★★★ East Buttress | 440m | ★ Good | 1995 | ||||
5.10b | ★★★ East Buttress | 440m | Fri 1st Sep 2000 | |||||
with Conrad Anker
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5.10b | ★★★ East Buttress | 440m | ★★★ Mega Classic | Fri 1st Aug 2003 | ||||
5.10b | ★★★ East Buttress | 440m | Tue 13th Apr 2010 | |||||
5.10b | ★★★ East Buttress | 440m | ★★★ Classic | 2001 | ||||
very nice
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5.10b | ★★★ East Buttress | 440m | ★★★ Mega Classic | Thu 1st May 2008 | ||||
5.10b | ★★★ East Buttress | 440m | Tue 13th Apr 2010 | |||||
5.10b | ★★★ East Buttress | 440m | ★★★ Mega Classic | Fri 6th Oct 2000 | ||||
12 hrs car to car
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5.10b | ★★★ East Buttress | 440m | ★★★ Classic | Thu 30th Sep 2004 | ||||
totally rad climb
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5.10b | ★★★ East Buttress | 440m | ★★★ Classic | Sat 30th Jul 2011 | ||||
swapped leads - lead pitches 4-7, 10, 11-12 from supertopo
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5.10b | ★★★ East Buttress | 440m | ★★★ Mega Classic | Fri 2nd Jul 2010 | ||||
with Scott. simulled our way to glory.
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5.10b | ★★★ East Buttress | 440m | Sun 14th Apr 2013 | |||||
5.10b | ★★★ East Buttress | 440m | Mon 2nd Dec 2013 | |||||
On the ticklist for now
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5.10b | ★★★ East Buttress | 440m | ★★★ Mega Classic | Fri 1st Jun 2001 | ||||
5.10b | ★★★ East Buttress | 440m | ★★★ Mega Classic | 1981 | ||||
5.10b | ★★★ East Buttress | 440m | ★★★ Classic | Fri 18th Sep 2015 | ||||
With Stephen. OS P2 & P3 (linked), P4, P6 & P7 (linked), P8 & P9 (linked), P11 and P13. 2nd Clean P1, P5, P10 and P12. Amazing position and involved climbing for my first route on El Capitan (sort of). Hard stemming finish on P1, Hard friction Slab start P2, and consistantly hard and runout climbing on P9 (I chose the offwidth variant and had no gear to protect it). Improbably mega climbing with surprisingly complex moves and some real boldness.
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5.10b | ★★★ East Buttress - with Ronan | 440m | ★★★ Classic | Sun 25th Oct 2015 | ||||
Awesome day out. Only one 10b move on the second pitch and the rest of this route is just plain amazing. Exposed as anything with plenty enough technical climbing to keep you interested.
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5.10b | ★★★ East Buttress | 440m | Fri 18th Sep 2015 | |||||
5.10b | ★★★ East Buttress | 440m | Fri 13th Jan 2017 | |||||
5.10b | ★★★ East Buttress | 440m | Mon 16th Oct 2017 | |||||
Quite the classic. I did not onsight this route as I slipped on 5.9 glacier polish haha!
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5.10b | ★★★ East Buttress | 440m | Mon 16th Oct 2017 | |||||
5.10b | ★★★ East Buttress | 440m | Thu 16th May 2019 | |||||
5.10b | ★★★ East Buttress - with Lisa | 440m | ★★★ Classic | Thu 17th Sep 1998 | ||||
Lisas first Big-wall
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5.10b | ★★★ East Buttress | 440m | ★★★ Classic | Sat 15th Sep 2012 | ||||
5.10b | ★★★ East Buttress | 440m | Fri 29th Jan 2021 | |||||
5.10b | ★★★ East Buttress - with woodhead | 440m | Sat 26th Oct 2019 | |||||
5.10b | ★★★ East Buttress - with 远哥 | 440m | ★★★ Classic | Fri 12th Oct 2018 | ||||
This is shortest route on El Cap, I took my first trad climbing fall on this route, a bit scary. Yet, being able to climb on El Cap says it all for the experience.
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5.10b | ★★★ East Buttress - with Ben | 440m | ★★★ Classic | Sat 19th Oct 2019 | ||||
5.10b | ★★★ East Buttress | 440m | ★★★ Classic | Thu 21st Mar 2019 | ||||
5.10b | ★★★ East Buttress | 440m | ★★★ Classic | 2001 | ||||
5.10b | ★★★ East Buttress | 440m | ★★★ Mega Classic | Wed 2nd Oct 2013 | ||||
What a climb!!!
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5.10b | ★★★ East Buttress - with William Wardlaw-Kelly | 440m | ★★★ Mega Classic | Tue 3rd Oct 2023 | ||||
Great day out, after attempting the day before and seeing multiple parties including a party of four we postponed till the next day and had the cliff to ourselves. Simuled a few a chunks. Fantastic. Fixed line are up so the descent was easy peasy
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5.10b | ★★★ East Buttress - with Fraser | 440m | ★★★ Classic | Thu 5th Oct 2023 | ||||
5.10b | ★★★ East Buttress | 440m | Fri 13th Oct 2023 | |||||
5.10b | ★★★ East Buttress | 440m | ★★★ Classic | Tue 17th Oct 2023 | ||||
For the descent take care, it might not be easy to locate it especially in the dark.
After topping out you follow a trail and a bunch of cairns down. Then you continue walking down on some slabs The rap station is as you walk down facing the valley to the right hand side (Skier's-right) A chain on a ledge with usually some fixed ropes, We did 6 raps (the last 2 were short) Do NOT go left! Do NOT rap from the tat and old rings that are on a very dead looking tree. After the raps follow a long but obvious trail through the trees and back on the road |
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5.10b | ★★★ East Buttress | 440m | ★★★ Classic | Tue 10th Oct 2023 | ||||
5.10b |
★★★ East Buttress
- with
griff
1
5.9
160ft
2
5.10b
70ft
3
5.6
55ft
4
5.6
125ft
5
80ft
6
5.8
155ft
7
5.8
130ft
8
5.9
65ft
9
5.9
130ft
10
5.5
100ft
11
5.8
160ft
12
5.7
150ft
13
5.6
70ft
| 440m | ★★ Very Good | Tue 1st Oct 2019 | ||||
A4 | ★★ Eagle's Way | 550m | Tue 13th Apr 2010 | |||||
A2 | ★★★ Zodiac | 550m | Tue 13th Apr 2010 | |||||
16 hrs
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A2 5.7 A2 VI | ★★★ Zodiac | 550m | ★★★ Mega Classic | Mon 1st Jul 1996 | ||||
First El Cap route
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A2 5.7 A2 VI | ★★★ Zodiac | 550m | Wed 2nd Jun 2004 | |||||
A2 5.7 A2 VI | ★★★ Zodiac | 550m | ★★★ Mega Classic | 2000 | ||||
A2 | ★★★ Zodiac | 550m | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sun 4th Jun 2000 | ||||
Solo 3 days all clean (C3)
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A2 5.7 A2 VI | ★★★ Zodiac | 550m | ★★★ Classic | Sat 10th Sep 1988 | ||||
A2 | ★★★ Zodiac | 550m | Sat 25th May 2002 | |||||
Hammerless. 79 hrs 25 mins.
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A2 5.7 A2 VI | ★★★ Zodiac | 550m | Tue 13th Apr 2010 | |||||
A2 | ★★★ Zodiac | 550m | ★★★ Mega Classic | 2002 | ||||
A2 5.7 A2 VI | ★★★ Zodiac | 550m | Tue 13th Apr 2010 | |||||
A2 | ★★★ Zodiac | 550m | ★★★ Classic | Tue 13th Apr 2010 | ||||
A2 5.7 A2 VI | ★★★ Zodiac | 550m | Tue 13th Apr 2010 | |||||
A2 5.7 A2 VI | ★★★ Zodiac | 550m | Tue 13th Apr 2010 | |||||
A2 5.7 A2 VI | ★★★ Zodiac | 550m | ★★★ Mega Classic | Fri 13th Aug 2004 | ||||
Great Climb. Be Aware That The Climb Is Being Cleaned Of Fixed Gear So Be Prepared To Place Lots Of Heads And Pitons !!!! We Did
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5.7 A2 5.7 A2 VI | ★★★ Zodiac | 550m | Sun 24th May 2015 | |||||
5.13d 5.7 A2 VI | ★★★ Zodiac | 550m | Fri 1st Jan 2016 | |||||
21 pitches up to 5.13d
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5.7 A2 | ★★★ Zodiac | 550m | Tue 15th Nov 2016 | |||||
5.7 C3 5.7 A2 VI | ★★★ Zodiac | 550m | Tue 27th Nov 2018 | |||||
5.13d 5.7 A2 VI | ★★★ Zodiac | 550m | 2003 | |||||
1st red point ascent
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5.8 A2+ | ★★★ Zodiac - with Thomas Huber | 550m | 2004 | |||||
speed record in 1:51,34 hours
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5.7 A2 VI | ★★★ Zodiac - with Jacob Kuchler | 550m | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sun 8th Oct 2023 | ||||
5.12a A2 | ★★★ Zodiac | 550m | 2004 | |||||
Speedrekord in 1:51:34 Stunden
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5.13d | ★★★ Zodiac | 550m | 2003 | |||||
A4 5.7 A4 VI | ★★★ The Shortest Straw | 550m | Wed 15th Sep 1999 | |||||
★★★ The Shortest Straw | 550m | ★★★ Classic | Mon 12th Jun 2000 | |||||
3 days with Shaggy.
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A3+ 5.9 A3+ VI | ★★★ Tangerine Trip | 620m | ★★★ Mega Classic | Tue 13th Apr 2010 | ||||
★★★ Tangerine Trip | 620m | Tue 13th Apr 2010 | ||||||
35hrs
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A3+ 5.9 A3+ VI | ★★★ Tangerine Trip | 620m | Fri 1st Aug 2008 | |||||
A3+ 5.9 A3+ VI | ★★★ Tangerine Trip | 620m | Tue 13th Apr 2010 | |||||
A3+ 5.9 A3+ VI | ★★★ Tangerine Trip | 620m | Tue 13th Apr 2010 | |||||
A3+ 5.9 A3+ VI | ★★★ Tangerine Trip | 620m | Tue 13th Apr 2010 | |||||
5.9 A3+ | ★★★ Tangerine Trip | 620m | ★★★ Classic | Fri 24th Sep 2010 | ||||
overhanging goodness
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5.9 A3+ 5.9 A3+ VI | ★★★ Tangerine Trip | 620m | ★★★ Mega Classic | Fri 15th Sep 2017 | ||||
A4 5.9 A4 VI | ★★★ Iron Hawk | 610m | Sun 20th Sep 1998 | |||||
5.13c | El Niño (El Nino) | Thu 1st Jan 2015 | ||||||
30 pitches up to 5.13 c, 8 days ascent together with Jacopo
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