Pitch 1 starts with 5.11+ strenuous lieack/finger corner, massive warmup pump. Pitch 2, shortsteep 5.9 to the next ledge. Linked 3-5 in one huge chimney/off-width pitch (coming out of the chimney is the hardest, A0 with sling from above). Pitch 6 starts with a little down-climbing then up to a bolt and past a crimpy 5.11- traverse. Best to ignore the bolted belay and rather build one around the arete at the base of the crack. Steepfingers to hand through the 5.11+ money pitch to a one bolt belay with excellent #1 as back-up. Last long 5.9 pitch to the top.
Very memorable route. Super improbable to be able to step around the arete into a 110m crack leadi g straight to the top of red arch! The offwidth felt surprisingly good.. i might think about not aiding all of them. Wasnt as much sand on this route for tony to complain about but the weather forecasters provided an excuse. Clear skies they said, we certainly picked up the pace on the last pitch when thunder started cracking over our heads. We lost all that time and more on the rap by getting the tag line hopelessly tangled in the climbing rope on all the biner block raps. We both tried to tell ourselves the tag line was necessary but some retrobolted anchors meant it could have been done with a single 70. Fook.
- with
Hanna Kallweit
Pitch 1 starts with 5.11+ strenuous lieack/finger corner, massive warmup pump. Pitch 2, short steep 5.9 to the next ledge. Linked 3-5 in one huge chimney/off-width pitch (coming out of the chimney is the hardest, A0 with sling from above). Pitch 6 starts with a little down-climbing then up to a bolt and past a crimpy 5.11- traverse. Best to ignore the bolted belay and rather build one around the arete at the base of the crack. Steep fingers to hand through the 5.11+ money pitch to a one bolt belay with excellent #1 as back-up. Last long 5.9 pitch to the top.