Grade | Route | Gear style | Crag | Quality | Date | |||
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5.12c | ||||||||
5.12c | ★★★ Pettifogger | 23m | New River Gorge | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sun 1st Oct 2006 | |||
Only got to try it once but what a treat it was! Super fun climb. Nice vertical 11 face climbing and then the business starts at the first roof. Solid V4 moves up the roof to the chains. I'll need to work to tick this thing! Can't wait to try
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V5 | ||||||||
V5 | ★★★ Brutus | 4m | Hueco Tanks | ★★ Very Good | Fri 14th Apr 2006 | |||
Got it 2nd go. Easiest V5 in the park
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V5 | ★★ Wave Rider | Coopers Rock State Forest | ★★★ Classic | Thu 28th Jun 2007 | ||||
Can't remember what day Drew and I did this but it was the only boulder problem I've done this season worth mentioning so I thought I'd add it! Fantastic line with a headsy top out.
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V5 | ★★★ Lobster Claw (Lobster Claws) | Hueco Tanks | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sun 11th Dec 2005 | ||||
Superb Line
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V5 | ★ Meatmaker | 6m | Hueco Tanks | Don't Bother | 2005 | |||
5.12b | ||||||||
5.12b | ★ Morning Dew | 18m | New River Gorge | ★ Good | Sat 11th Mar 2006 | |||
First 12 Redpoint!!!
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5.12b | ★★★ Fall Line | 20m | New River Gorge | ★★★ Classic | Sun 1st May 2005 | |||
5.12a 5.12b | ★★★ Thieves In The Temple | 24m, 8 | New River Gorge | ★★★ Classic | Wed 1st Jun 2005 | |||
5.12b | ★★ Big Money Grip | 21m, 7 | Red River Gorge | ★★★ Classic | Fri 10th Nov 2006 | |||
Possibly my favorite climb of the trip. Super overhanging with big holds and athletic moves. Superb climbing. I took a nice 25 footer while making a clip Good stuff!
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5.12b | ★★ European Vacation | New River Gorge | ★★ Very Good | Sun 4th Jun 2006 | ||||
Good lord is this thing hard. Fun as hell but quite a wake up as to what hard, powerful 5.12 is.
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5.12b | ★ Ministry | 12m | New River Gorge | ★★ Very Good | Thu 23rd Jun 2005 | |||
5.12a | ||||||||
5.12a | ★★ Control | 20m | New River Gorge | ★★ Very Good | Fri 27th Jun 2008 | |||
Another rainy day. Bottom was very damp but rest was good. Early section was crimpy and hard but rest is pretty doable.
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5.12a | ★★ Pockets of Resistance | 20m | New River Gorge | ★★ Very Good | 2004 | |||
5.12a | ★★★ Lost Souls | 20m | New River Gorge | ★★★ Classic | Sun 24th Jul 2005 | |||
5.12a | ★ Tongue-In-Groove | 15m | New River Gorge | ★ Good | Sun 7th May 2006 | |||
Wow. This thing was not what I expected. There was one all points off dyno and several other very tricky moves that make you think. Take some slings for the anchors b/c the biners twist the rope to hell.
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5.12a | ★★★ Push | Meadow River | ★★ Very Good | Mon 16th Jun 2008 | ||||
Sustained climbing on good holds. Super fun climb.
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5.12a | ★★ M.E.N.S.A. | 15m | New River Gorge | ★★ Very Good | Sat 27th May 2006 | |||
This thing worked me and I ended up doing the easy left variation. Be aware in the afternoon it gets direct sun.... ugh
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5.12a | ★★ Fly Girls | 15m | New River Gorge | ★★ Very Good | Sun 28th May 2006 | |||
3 more tries on this thing with no redpoint. The first two bolts are tough and reachy for me but I have my sequence now. It's going down soon!
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5.12a | ★★★ Lost Souls | 20m | New River Gorge | ★★★ Classic | Sun 1st Oct 2006 | |||
Took two more burns on this today. On the redpoint attempt I fell on the finger ledge after the big move. Sooooo close. No question this goes down in another try or two. What a great climb. So freaking fun!
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5.12a | ★★ Bare Metal Teen | 24m, 8 | Red River Gorge | ★★★ Classic | Wed 26th Sep 2007 | |||
Worked this a few times over the week and never did come close to getting it clean. Very fun line but super pumpy. If only I had some endurance.....
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5.12a | ★★ Fly Girls | 15m | New River Gorge | ★★ Very Good | 2004 | |||
5.12a | ★★★ Keine Kraft | 17m | New River Gorge | ★★★ Classic | Wed 1st Jun 2005 | |||
5.12a | ★★★ Push | Meadow River | ★★ Very Good | Mon 16th Jun 2008 | ||||
Sustained climbing on good holds. Very nice route up the beautful first buttress.
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5.12a | ★★★ Narcissus | 6 | Summersville Lake | ★★★ Classic | Fri 24th Jun 2005 | |||
5.12a | ★★ Lamda | Meadow River | ★ Good | Sat 2nd Sep 2006 | ||||
Yikes. Very sustained 12a climbing. At least 2 cruxes and several tough clips. I ended up doing 3 laps on this thing and it never started feeling easier. Nice climb, hard as hell though.
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V4 | ||||||||
V3 V4 | ★★★ The Warm Up Roof | 8m | Hueco Tanks | ★★★ Classic | 2005 | |||
5.11d | ||||||||
5.11d | ★★★ Scenic Adult | 27m | New River Gorge | ★★★ Classic | Sat 19th Jul 2008 | |||
Got it on my first try of the day. Super fun climb. However, if this thing is the same grade as Toxic Hueco at Lower Meadow I'm the Easter Bunny....
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5.11d | ★★ The Bicycle Club | 17m | New River Gorge | ★★ Very Good | Sat 6th May 2006 | |||
Took me two more tries but I got the redpoint hanging the draws! Fun climb.
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5.11d | ★★ Recoil | 17m, 5 | Red River Gorge | ★★ Very Good | Wed 26th Sep 2007 | |||
5.11d | ★★ All the Right Moves | 24m | New River Gorge | ★★ Very Good | Sat 8th Jul 2006 | |||
Got it on my first go hanging the draws!! Woo hoo. I had done it once before but it felt real good this time. Very nice line, very much my style.
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5.11d | ★★★ Under the Milky Way | 7 | Summersville Lake | ★★ Very Good | Sat 29th Oct 2005 | |||
Got it! Third try in two weeks
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5.11d | ★★ Mo' Betta' Holds | 21m | New River Gorge | ★★ Very Good | Sun 1st May 2005 | |||
5.11d | ★★★ The Return of Chris Snyder | 29m | Red River Gorge | ★★★ Classic | Sun 12th Nov 2006 | |||
Wow is this a beautiful line. 95 of climbing bliss. Beginning is 5.10 and the overhanging jug haul begins. On my first attempt hung a bit finding holds but cleaning it on TR got it with one hang. Very doable with any kind of endurance.
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5.11d | ★★★ Toxic Hueco | 24m, 9 | Meadow River | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sun 20th Jul 2008 | |||
Took two burns on this and it could now be my favorite climb to date. It is so very much fun. I managed to one fall it on the 2nd go so I think and hope the redpoint will be very soon. Absolutely stellar line.
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5.11d | ★★ Seek the Truth | 15m, 4 | Red River Gorge | ★★ Very Good | Sat 29th Sep 2007 | |||
This thing was my nemesis for several days. Think I tried it 5+ times. Never did get it clean. Super fun and quite burly at the top. I'll definitely be trying it again someday. One of my favorites of the week.
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5.11d | ★★ Sex Show | 15m, 5 | Red River Gorge | Average | Wed 26th Sep 2007 | |||
Ok climb. Only tried it once to clean it. Definitely preferred the others on this wall better.
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5.11d | ★ Access All Areas | 15m | Morgantown | ★ Good | Sat 2nd Jul 2005 | |||
5.11d | ★★★ Scenic Adult | 27m | New River Gorge | ★★★ Classic | Sun 15th Jun 2008 | |||
Two more tries. Should go very soon.
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5.11d | ★★★ Scenic Adult | 27m | New River Gorge | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sun 15th Jun 2008 | |||
Took two more burns on this thing and got it with one fall. Can't believe I waited so long to get back on it. It's stellar. I think the one crux clip was moved lower as it didn't seem nearly as scary as I recalled....
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5.11d | ★★ Repent or Perish | 15m | Morgantown | ★ Good | Sat 2nd Jul 2005 | |||
5.11d | ★★ All the Right Moves | 24m | New River Gorge | ★★ Very Good | Sun 30th Apr 2006 | |||
Another blown onsite, I blew it by screwing up the roof at the 6th bolt. Super fun climb though, I can't believe no one ever does this one!
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5.11d | ★★ Ring of Fire | 15m | Smith Rock State Park | ★★★ Classic | Tue 13th Sep 2005 | |||
Superb route. Tricky crux makes it a tough onsite. Can't wait to get back to work the redpoint!
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5.11d | ★★★ Out of the Bag | 23m | New River Gorge | ★★★ Classic | 2003 | |||
5.11d | ★★★ Michelin Man Direct | 21m | New River Gorge | ★★★ Mega Classic | Wed 1st Jun 2005 | |||
5.11d | ★★★ Scenic Adult | 27m | New River Gorge | ★★★ Classic | 2004 | |||
5.11d | ★★ Bourbon Sauce | 20m | New River Gorge | ★ Good | Sat 8th Jul 2006 | |||
Super pumpy beginning but then gets easier. Took me a couple tries to unlock the roof but then it went pretty well. I think I'll definitely tick it next go.
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5.11d | ★★ The Bicycle Club | 17m | New River Gorge | ★★ Very Good | Sun 30th Apr 2006 | |||
I just barely missed the onsight on this. I grabbed the wrong crimp and blew it. Very fun climb though. Definitely worth doing.
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5.11d | ★★ Recoil | 17m, 5 | Red River Gorge | ★★ Very Good | Fri 10th Nov 2006 | |||
My other favorite on this wall. A nice bouldery start.... if only it were longer..
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5.11c | ||||||||
5.11c | ★★★ Pistol Whip | Meadow River | ★★ Very Good | Sun 2nd Jul 2006 | ||||
Got it on my second try. The middle section is a bit tricky and the finish is out a very pumpy roof with nice big holds.
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5.11c | ★★★ Sancho Belige | 23m | New River Gorge | ★★★ Classic | Sun 31st Aug 2008 | |||
Finally ticked this thing. Used it as a warmup on TR and then sent it afterwards. Really nice climb. super fun
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5.11c | ★★ Maximum Overdrive | 6 | Summersville Lake | ★★ Very Good | Sun 30th Oct 2005 | |||
5.11c | ★★ Homer Erectus | 26m, 9 | New River Gorge | ★★ Very Good | Sun 3rd Sep 2006 | |||
Very nice face climb. 1st go hung the draws and had to work out some moves. TR'd it next to get my sequence and then I ticked it on the 3rd go. Nice long fun climb. Worth doing if in the area.
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5.11c | ★ Blame the Dog | 12m | Morgantown | ★ Good | Sat 16th Sep 2006 | |||
Took two tries but finally ticked it. Pretty easy and fun climb. Overhanging with good holds.
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5.11c | ★★ Tony the Tiger | 24m | New River Gorge | ★★ Very Good | Sun 4th Sep 2005 | |||
5.11c | ★★ Hard Core Female Thrash | 21m | New River Gorge | ★★ Very Good | Sun 4th Sep 2005 | |||
5.11c | ★ Get Right or Get Left | Morgantown | ★ Good | Wed 1st Jun 2005 | ||||
5.11c | ★★ Tongulation | 23m | New River Gorge | ★★ Very Good | Sun 2nd Apr 2006 | |||
Pretty heady lead. I did the easier, right moving variation
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5.11d 5.11c | ★★★ Yaak Crack | 15m | Red Rock | ★★★ Classic | Fri 1st Apr 2005 | |||
5.11c | ★ Doer, Not A Critic | 15m | New River Gorge | ★ Good | Sun 28th May 2006 | |||
I blew the onsight at the last move!! It was a big move but very doable and not the crux. Big mistake..... oh well. Fun route
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5.11d 5.11c | ★ Put Up or Shut Up | 18m, 6 | New River Gorge | Average | Sat 1st Jul 2006 | |||
Ok climb. Doesn't see much action based on the large tree growing on the roof ledge!!! Super pumpy roof and the top was filthy dirty. I believe the guide I had put this at 11.c
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5.11c | ★★ Highland Fling | 20m | New River Gorge | ★★ Very Good | Wed 1st Jun 2005 | |||
5.11c | ★★ Heresy | 10m | Smith Rock State Park | ★★ Very Good | Wed 14th Sep 2005 | |||
Last climb of the trip. Super fun and totally anti-Smith route. Nice big moves to big holds
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5.11b 5.11c | ★ License to Bolt | 23m, 5 | Smith Rock State Park | Don't Bother | Mon 12th Sep 2005 | |||
Hardest 11.b I've ever seen. Painful as hell to boot
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5.11c | ★ Over The Edge | 15m | New River Gorge | Average | Mon 5th Sep 2005 | |||
5.11b 5.11c | ★★★ Overboard (Overboard p1) | 25m, 8 | Smith Rock State Park | ★★★ Classic | Wed 14th Sep 2005 | |||
Excellent climbing!!
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5.11c | ★★ Meathead | Meadow River | ★★ Very Good | Sat 3rd Jun 2006 | ||||
Fun climb. Bouldery start and then 60ft of fun 5.10 climbing and the crux is the last 6ft... Very pumpy roof finish. Tried it thrice and never made it clean....
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5.11c | ★★★ Centerfire | 23m, 8 | Red River Gorge | ★★ Very Good | Fri 10th Nov 2006 | |||
All the 11's on this wall were nice. I would very much have liked to have more time to do them a couple times.
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5.11c | ★★ Tit Speed | 23m | New River Gorge | Average | Sun 16th Oct 2005 | |||
5.11c | ★★ Butta | 20m, 5 | New River Gorge | ★ Good | Sat 27th May 2006 | |||
VERY difficult, bouldery opening moves. In my humble opinion the move felt harder than 11 but what do I know. The line is beautiful and climbs fairly well too.
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5.11c | ★ Blame the Dog | 12m | Morgantown | ★ Good | Sat 2nd Jul 2005 | |||
5.11c | ★★ Moon Child Posse | 26m | New River Gorge | ★ Good | Sat 8th Jul 2006 | |||
Very tricky, thin moves at the top. Would be a tough on-site. Didn't get it clean my first go but worked out the crux on TR and confident it will go next time!
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5.11c | ★★★ Sancho Belige | 23m | New River Gorge | ★★★ Classic | 2004 | |||
5.11c | Skinhead Sin | 17m | New River Gorge | Average | Sat 3rd Sep 2005 | |||
5.11c | ★★ Highland Fling | 20m | New River Gorge | Average | Tue 13th Apr 2010 | |||
5.11c | Skinhead Sin | 17m | New River Gorge | Don't Bother | Tue 13th Apr 2010 | |||
Clipping the shuts is NOT fun. Don't bother with this thing
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5.11c | ★★ Tony the Tiger | 24m | New River Gorge | ★★ Very Good | Sat 19th Jul 2008 | |||
Used this as a sort of warm-up for Scenic Adult. Figured out pretty good beta for the top crux. Hard to believe it was 2005 when I first ticked this thing. Great climb.
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5.11c | ★★ Butta | 20m, 5 | New River Gorge | ★ Good | Mon 4th Sep 2006 | |||
Took another go at this one on Monday. Man, those first few moves are rough. Worked out some better beta but had to go before could try for the redpoint. Maybe next time.
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V3 | ||||||||
V3 | ★★ Namedropper | 5m | Hueco Tanks | ★★ Very Good | Sun 16th Apr 2006 | |||
Repeat. Super fun climb
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V3 | ★★★ Sign Of The Cross | 5m | Hueco Tanks | ★★ Very Good | 2005 | |||
5.11b | ||||||||
5.11a 5.11b | ★★ Rebel without a Pause | 10m | Red Rock | Fri 1st Apr 2005 | ||||
5.11c 5.11b | ★ Delayed Stress Syndrome (The Route of All Evil) | 11m, 3 | Summersville Lake | ★★ Very Good | Sat 1st Apr 2006 | |||
Hardest flash to date!!! Proably soft though. Great fun, climb it if your there
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5.11b | ★ The Year of the Psycho Bitch (Process of Elimination) | 14m, 5 | Summersville Lake | ★★ Very Good | Sat 1st Apr 2006 | |||
5.11c 5.11b | ★ Delayed Stress Syndrome (The Route of All Evil) | 11m, 3 | Summersville Lake | ★★ Very Good | Sat 1st Apr 2006 | |||
5.11b | ★ The Year of the Psycho Bitch (Process of Elimination) | 14m, 5 | Summersville Lake | ★★ Very Good | Sat 1st Apr 2006 | |||
Super fun climb. Steep and powerful with big holds
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5.11b | ★★★ The Legacy | 27m, 10 | New River Gorge | ★★★ Classic | Sat 23rd Jul 2005 | |||
5.11b | ★★★ Barnacle Bill | 21m, 9 | Franklin Gorge | ★★ Very Good | 2003 | |||
5.11b | ★★ Barfing Butterfiles | 7 | Summersville Lake | ★★ Very Good | Sat 1st Apr 2006 | |||
Hung the draws and then got it 2nd go
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5.11b | Unnamed BM#2 | New River Gorge | Average | Sun 4th Jun 2006 | ||||
Nothing special. If you do it traverse left at the 1st bolt. Going straight up and left is VERY hard and not 11b.
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5.11b | ★★ Wild Seed | 23m | New River Gorge | ★ Good | Sat 11th Mar 2006 | |||
5.11b | ★★ Barfing Butterfiles | 7 | Summersville Lake | ★★ Very Good | Sat 1st Apr 2006 | |||
5.11b | ★★ Reciever | 20m, 8 | Red River Gorge | ★★ Very Good | Mon 24th Sep 2007 | |||
A year later we're back and I got the tick. Still took a couple of tries.
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5.11b | ★★ Stellar Idea | 12m | New River Gorge | ★ Good | Sat 3rd Sep 2005 | |||
5.11b | ★ Sausage | 12m, 4 | Meadow River | ★ Good | Thu 26th Jun 2008 | |||
Got it
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5.11b | ★★ Wild Seed | 23m | New River Gorge | ★★★ Classic | Sat 11th Mar 2006 | |||
5.11b | ★ Sausage | 12m, 4 | Meadow River | ★ Good | Thu 26th Jun 2008 | |||
Got it
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5.11a 5.11b | ★★ Cool Ranch Flavor | 15m, 6 | Smith Rock State Park | ★ Good | Mon 12th Sep 2005 | |||
A good climb. Not great but worth putting the shoes on for
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5.11b | ★★ End of the Game | 12m | Morgantown | ★ Good | Tue 13th Apr 2010 | |||
5.11b | ★ Fingers In Da Dyke | 18m | New River Gorge | ★★ Very Good | Sat 1st Jul 2006 | |||
Very fun climb. Mostly vertical and technical climbing. Took me 3 goes b/c on the second I tried to go a bit too quickly.... very worth doing.
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5.11b | ★ Nothing Smells Bad to a Dog | 15m | Morgantown | ★ Good | Sat 16th Sep 2006 | |||
As per my usual.... took two tries but it went down. Pretty decent climb. Nothing too terribly special.
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5.11b | ★★ Bimbo Shrine | 24m, 8 | New River Gorge | ★★ Very Good | Sun 24th Jul 2005 |