Grade | Route | Gear style | Crag | Quality | Date | |||
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5.11a | ★★ Critters on the Cliff | 23m, 9 | Red River Gorge | ★★ Very Good | Wed 27th Jun 2007 | |||
5.10d | ★★ Return of the Manimal | 26m, 10 | Red River Gorge | ★★★ Classic | Wed 27th Jun 2007 | |||
5.10c | ★★ Workin' for the Weekend | 21m, 8 | Red River Gorge | ★ Good | Wed 27th Jun 2007 | |||
5.10c | ★ Hey there, fancy pants | 17m, 5 | Red River Gorge | Fri 22nd Jun 2007 | ||||
5.10c | ★ Don't Take Yer Guns to Town | 15m, 5 | Red River Gorge | ★ Good | Fri 22nd Jun 2007 | |||
5.10a 5.10b | ★★ Mankala | 15m | Red River Gorge | ★★ Very Good | Sun 24th Jun 2007 | |||
5.10b | ★★ A.W.O.L. | 15m | Red River Gorge | ★★★ Classic | Mon 12th Jun 2006 | |||
Good red river gorge overhanging pump fest. I wouldn't say this was 10c though, book lists it I think more correctly as 10a. Anywho, I went into this climb not looking to onsight, but it just went so smoothly and with good technique that I was able to take advantage of good form and breathing control.
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5.10b | ★ Little Viper | 15m, 6 | Red River Gorge | ★ Good | Fri 22nd Jun 2007 | |||
5.10b | ★★ Gettin' Lucky In Kentucky | 18m | Red River Gorge | ★★ Very Good | Sun 24th Jun 2007 | |||
No super obvious crux, important pockets and underclings, gets pumpy. Awesome!
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5.10b | ★★ Spinner | 15m | Red River Gorge | ★★ Very Good | Mon 25th Jun 2007 | |||
5.9 5.10a | ★★ Plate Tectonics | 20m, 6 | Red River Gorge | Average | Wed 7th Jun 2006 | |||
Meh, reminded me of a juggy sport route more than anything else. Not the coolest route of the day, I much preferred the earlier trad lines to this type of climbing.
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5.10b 5.10a | ★★ Pogue Ethics | 24m, 10 | Red River Gorge | ★★★ Mega Classic | Tue 13th Apr 2010 | |||
5.10a | ★★ Bethel | 15m, 5 | Red River Gorge | ★ Good | Mon 25th Jun 2007 | |||
5.10a | ★★ Rat Stew | 23m, 9 | Red River Gorge | ★ Good | Wed 27th Jun 2007 | |||
5.10a | ★★ Dynabolt Gold | 21m | Red River Gorge | ★★ Very Good | Sun 28th Jun 2009 | |||
5.10b 5.10a | ★★ Boltergeist | 30m, 13 | Red River Gorge | ★★★ Classic | Thu 28th Jun 2007 | |||
5.9 5.10a | ★★ Plate Tectonics | 20m, 6 | Red River Gorge | ★ Good | Sun 24th Jun 2007 | |||
5.10a | ★★ 59" Drillbitch | 14m, 5 | Red River Gorge | ★★ Very Good | Sun 24th Jun 2007 | |||
5.9 | ★ Kampsight | 24m | Red River Gorge | ★ Good | Mon 12th Jun 2006 | |||
5.9 | ★ Footloose and Finger Free | 12m | Logtown | Average | Sat 9th May 2009 | |||
5.9 | ★★ Send Me On My Way | 23m, 9 | Red River Gorge | Average | Wed 7th Jun 2006 | |||
5.9 | ★ The Sophomore | Jackson Falls | ★ Good | Sat 18th Jun 2005 | ||||
5.9 | ★ Moonbeam | 15m | Red River Gorge | Average | Sat 10th Jun 2006 | |||
5.9 | Two Chicken Butts (Unknown) | Red River Gorge | Crap | Sun 24th Jun 2007 | ||||
5.9 | ★ Flutterboy Blue | 12m, 5 | Red River Gorge | ★ Good | Wed 7th Jun 2006 | |||
5.8 5.9 | ★ Lord Of The Flies | 15m, 5 | Red River Gorge | ★★★ Classic | Tue 13th Apr 2010 | |||
5.9 | ★ Brother Stair | 12m, 4 | Red River Gorge | ★ Good | Mon 9th May 2005 | |||
5.9 | ★ Trouble Clef | 24m | Red River Gorge | ★ Good | Sat 9th May 2009 | |||
5.9 | ★ Sunshine | 15m | Red River Gorge | Sat 10th Jun 2006 | ||||
Hardest part of this route and Moonbeam was trying to find what you wanted to use, as the holds were really hard to see due to the bulgy nature of the rock and the plethora of pockets. Breathing and focus was really good throughout the two routes.
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5.9 | ★ Scabies | 12m, 4 | Red River Gorge | Average | Fri 9th Jun 2006 | |||
Fun, very small and crimpy, pretty damn sharp too!
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5.9 | ★ Groovy Marcia! (Groovy Marsha) | 6 | Jackson Falls | ★ Good | Sun 19th Jun 2005 | |||
Last climb of the day, really took it out of me. Especially the off-width crack section near the top.
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5.9 | ★ The Meanest Flower | 18m | Jackson Falls | Average | Thu 1st Sep 2005 | |||
5.10a 5.9 | ★★ Express Checkout Line | 6 | Jackson Falls | ★★★ Classic | Sun 23rd Oct 2005 | |||
5.9 | ★ Through the Smoke | 15m | Jackson Falls | ★★ Very Good | Sun 29th May 2005 | |||
Really cool crack system that you shimmy up
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5.8 | ★ All Cows Eat Grass | 24m | Red River Gorge | Average | Mon 12th Jun 2006 | |||
5.8 | ★★ Stubborn Swede | 6 | Jackson Falls | ★★ Very Good | Sun 19th Jun 2005 | |||
Great route! Massive anchor bolt hangers, although they could use a screw link to lower rope friction when pulling it back through post rappell.
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5.8 | ★ Legends of Limonite | 15m, 6 | Red River Gorge | ★ Good | Thu 28th Jun 2007 | |||
5.8 | ★ Deetle Dumps | 18m | Jackson Falls | Average | Thu 1st Sep 2005 | |||
5.8 | ★★ Snake | 18m | Red River Gorge | ★★ Very Good | Tue 13th Jun 2006 | |||
Flipping out of the OW section was the crux of the route, but I thought the super bomber hand and finger jams made the route pretty darn cool. Placements were much better, but I still noticed significant mental blocks throughout the climb. Placed blue and gold stoppers at the bottom of the OW section, followed by purple, green, silver, and maybe even gold camalots.
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5.8 | ★★ Chimichonga | Jackson Falls | ★ Good | Sat 18th Jun 2005 | ||||
Really weird, long route. It starts with stemming in this really narrow hallway, and then wanders all over the main face. Cool though.
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5.8 | Sweet Jane | 15m, 1 | Red River Gorge | ★ Good | Wed 7th Jun 2006 | |||
5.7 | ★★ Party Time | 43m | Red River Gorge | ★★ Very Good | Tue 13th Jun 2006 | |||
Placed only 3 pieces on the first pitch, as I kept wasting time and effort screwing around with those darn hexes. It turned out that I only placed #2,3,4 camalots. Dan led the second pitch. I should have set up the first pitch belay anchors a little cleaner, utilizing the mimalist method of clipping in with the rope direct to save on slings that Dan could have used on the second pitch.
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5.7 | ★ The Offering | 14m, 5 | Red River Gorge | Average | Wed 7th Jun 2006 | |||
Juggy, a little balancy for a 5.7. Pretty good warmup to the trip.
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5.7 | ★ Tina's Soul Food Kitchen | 15m | Jackson Falls | Average | Tue 16th Aug 2005 | |||
5.7 | ★ Ledger Line | 18m | Red River Gorge | Don't Bother | Sat 10th Jun 2006 | |||
5.7 | ★★★ Roadside Attraction | 43m | Red River Gorge | ★★ Very Good | Thu 8th Jun 2006 | |||
Awesome route, but long and commiting as shit for me. Placed almost my entire rack but for nuts and tricams, still was run out though. Really freaked me out like 50-75 feet of C crack traverse. Anchors for the first belay are way the hell up there. Lots of pretty good hexes in camming mode. Not 100% confident in them though, but I wouldn't have been able to climb and protect it otherwise. Was so intent on keeping the #3 camalot on my rack for up top that I never placed it, which was pretty stupid on my part as it would have given me huge piece of mind. Also, instead of rapping off of the tree, I would prefer to rap off the first anchor, would be much safer.
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5.7 5.6 | ★ Big Wall Greg's Chicken Shack (Chicken Shack) | 7 | Jackson Falls | ★ Good | Sat 28th May 2005 | |||
5.6 | Coral Crack | Jackson Falls | ★ Good | Sat 13th May 2006 | ||||
Pretty cool, had to climb through nest of bugs, parts of crack were wet, mossy wetness up top was less than stellar. Only trad lead of the day, pretty much made my day.
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5.10b | ★ Reserved Seating | 15m | Red River Gorge | ★ Good | Fri 9th Jun 2006 | |||
Pretty cool, the beta from alex was super helpful.
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5.10b 5.10a | ★★ Earthbound Misfit | Jackson Falls | ★ Good | Thu 1st Sep 2005 | ||||
5.10a | ★★ Cheerio Bowl | 8 | Jackson Falls | ★★★ Classic | Sat 8th Oct 2005 | |||
Awesome climb, beta on the overhang from Paul. Definately a great climb.
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5.9 | ★★ Creature Feature | 18m, 8 | Red River Gorge | ★★★ Mega Classic | Tue 13th Apr 2010 | |||
5.8 | ★ Mr. Bungle | 18m, 6 | Red River Gorge | ★ Good | Mon 9th May 2005 | |||
5.7 | ★ C Sharp or B Flat | 20m | Red River Gorge | ★ Good | Tue 13th Apr 2010 | |||
5.10c | ★★ In the Light | 17m | Red River Gorge | ★★ Very Good | Sat 10th Jun 2006 | |||
5.10b | ★ Overlord | 15m, 5 | Red River Gorge | ★★★ Classic | Fri 13th May 2005 | |||
Great climb, nice and technical, very consistent as far as difficulty throughout route.
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5.10b 5.10a | ★★ Pogue Ethics | 24m, 10 | Red River Gorge | ★★ Very Good | Mon 25th Jun 2007 | |||
5.10a | ★★ Venom | Jackson Falls | ★★ Very Good | Mon 30th Oct 2006 | ||||
5.10a | ★★ To Defy the Laws of Tradition | 18m, 7 | Red River Gorge | ★★★ Classic | Sat 10th Jun 2006 | |||
I really tried to focus on my breathing, balance, and observing the rock well. So many choices, that you could really work with what your body was good at.
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5.10a | ★★ Master Marley | Jackson Falls | ★ Good | Sun 29th May 2005 | ||||
second time up the route, good red point, only real struggle was the first move
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5.9 | ★ Beam Me Up Scotty | 12m | Logtown | Average | Sat 9th May 2009 | |||
5.9 | ★ Altered Scale | 24m | Red River Gorge | ★ Good | Mon 12th Jun 2006 | |||
5.9 | ★ Flutterboy Blue | 12m, 5 | Red River Gorge | ★ Good | Fri 22nd Jun 2007 | |||
5.9 | ★★ Send Me On My Way | 23m, 9 | Red River Gorge | ★★ Very Good | Wed 27th Jun 2007 | |||
5.9 | ★★ Creature Feature | 18m, 8 | Red River Gorge | ★★★ Classic | Mon 25th Jun 2007 | |||
5.8 | ★ Mr. Bungle | 18m, 6 | Red River Gorge | ★ Good | Sat 10th Jun 2006 | |||
Warmup. Very smooth and focused, really helped to maintain good breathing.
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5.8 | ★★ Five Finger Discount | 15m | Red River Gorge | ★★ Very Good | Thu 8th Jun 2006 | |||
Took just the gear I knew I would need, and now that I knew about that sweet ledge and the bomber placements, I flew right through this sweet finger crack. Favorite climb of the trip.
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5.7 | ★ C Sharp or B Flat | 20m | Red River Gorge | ★ Good | Mon 12th Jun 2006 | |||
Way better than Ledger line, the route right next to it. Really cool start if you go direct. Kinda wigged out when alex started talking to the rest of the group about the runout, and my concious mental blocks then became more noticeable. I noticed that I often caught the top of my toe on the rock, which makes me think that I'm dragging my feet and holding back from committing completely to the moves. I've been kinda bothered by some bad news about the new job, so this kinda threw my mental game off.
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5.7 | ★★ Environmental Impact | 40m | Red River Gorge | ★ Good | Fri 9th Jun 2006 | |||
Borrowed a #1 camalot, and 3 wild country tech friends. Now that I could fire in pro near the bottom w/o messing w/ hexes, this sent pretty easily. Placed two #1's in bottom, then threw in the purple hex at the bottom of the wide section. Followed that up with a .75 and #2 camalots near the top.
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5.7 | ★ The Offering | 14m, 5 | Red River Gorge | Average | Wed 27th Jun 2007 | |||
5.9 | ★★ Suspended Animation | Jackson Falls | ★ Good | Thu 13th Apr 2006 | ||||
I think I led this on Pauls pre-placed gear. Fun climb, right next to Deception.
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5.10b | ★ Spiders from Mars | Jackson Falls | ★ Good | Sun 29th May 2005 | ||||
5.10a | ★★ The Garden Route | 15m | Jackson Falls | ★ Good | Fri 22nd Apr 2005 | |||
5.10a | ★★ To Defy the Laws of Tradition | 18m, 7 | Red River Gorge | ★★★ Classic | Tue 13th Apr 2010 | |||
5.8 | ★ Brief Respite | Jackson Falls | ★ Good | Tue 13th Apr 2010 | ||||
5.8 | ★ Chit Chat | Jackson Falls | ★ Good | Sun 29th May 2005 | ||||
5.8 | ★★ Face Up to That Crack | 21m, 8 | Red River Gorge | ★ Good | Tue 13th Apr 2010 | |||
5.12a | ★★★ Detox Mountain | 6 | Jackson Falls | ★★★ Classic | Sat 8th Oct 2005 | |||
Hardest climb that I've ever gotten on. I fell up the damn thing, but somebody had to get paul's draws back!
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5.12a | ★★★ Detox Mountain | 6 | Jackson Falls | ★★★ Classic | Sat 13th May 2006 | |||
Finished out the top section for paul, still a really freaking hard route.
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5.11b | ★★ Aquaduck Pocket | 15m, 5 | Red River Gorge | ★★★ Classic | Tue 13th Apr 2010 | |||
5.10c | ★★ In the Light | 17m | Red River Gorge | ★★ Very Good | Sat 10th Jun 2006 | |||
Took 1 fall right after photo jug, and then got completely wasted right at the anchors. I chickened out and tried to break 3 fingers by grabbing the anchor chain. Should have stuck with it, but I let the conscious mind freak me out by thinking the fall was too long. In retrospect, it would have been fine, as it was an open air fall. Also could have saved energy after the photo jug by not wasting time and energy trying to go straight up and then left. Right horizontal crack is the way to go, then crank for the really high jug.
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5.10b | ★★ You can tune a piano, but you can't tuna fish | 18m | Red River Gorge | ★★★ Mega Classic | Tue 10th May 2005 | |||
Amazing view from the anchors.
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5.10b | ★★ You can tune a piano, but you can't tuna fish | 18m | Red River Gorge | ★★★ Mega Classic | Mon 12th Jun 2006 | |||
Dirty as shit up top, had some trouble figuring out the crux.
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5.10a 5.10b | ★ Cut Throat | Jackson Falls | ★ Good | Sat 18th Jun 2005 | ||||
We got on this thinking it was the one next door, Earthbound Misfit(10a), we later learned that it was in fact Cut Throat, which the book lists as a 10b rather than a 10a.
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5.10b | ★ Birthday Route | 7 | Jackson Falls | ★★★ Classic | Sun 23rd Oct 2005 | |||
5.10a | ★ Rattler | Jackson Falls | Average | Sat 18th Jun 2005 | ||||
Cool enough route, it's the one directly to the right of Master Marley. I spoiled an onsight by taking a few good falls on it, oh well, better luck next time I suppose.
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5.10a | ★★ Venom | Jackson Falls | ★★ Very Good | Thu 13th Apr 2006 | ||||
Toe slipped off of a ledge sooo close to the anchors. Oh well, awesome trip, good climb. Slabby section up top is way harder than bottom.
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5.10b 5.10a | ★ Dolphin Friendly | 9m, 3 | Jackson Falls | ★ Good | Sun 19th Jun 2005 | |||
Tough route, definately freaked me out on that bulge section. I had to lock my knee behind my elbow to stay on rock.
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5.9 | ★★ Andromeda Strain | 27m | Red River Gorge | ★★ Very Good | Thu 8th Jun 2006 | |||
Way burly trad route, really need to work on the liebacking skills. I took a fall off of the route about 5 feet from the top from sheer exhaustion.
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5.9 | ★ Altered Scale | 24m | Red River Gorge | ★★ Very Good | Tue 13th Apr 2010 | |||
5.9 | ★★ Fine Nine | 4 | Jackson Falls | ★★ Very Good | Sat 18th Jun 2005 | |||
Took one fall, but it was a good one, between the third and 4th bolts.
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5.9 | ★★ Big Money | 21m | Red River Gorge | ★★ Very Good | Fri 9th Jun 2006 | |||
Fell on top rope trying to figure out the roof move. Lieback section was super strenuous, and the roof move was super cool. Rest of the route is pretty straightforward after that. Anchors were kinda sketchy. The book says to rappel off a tree but we couldn't find a good tree to rappel from, so we just rapped off the old bolts.
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5.8 | ★★ Bombs Bursting | 18m | Red River Gorge | ★★ Very Good | Tue 13th Jun 2006 | |||
This route had a lot of pretty darn strenuous liebacking. I got really wigged out and had to take on gear twice. I wasted a lot of time messing around with a blue hexentric near the bottom, and ended up just throwing in my #2 or #3 camalot. The crack was really shallow in some places, and I wasted a lot of time and energy trying to figure out what pieces to place and where. Easy but nerve racking roof section, as I was severely held back by my mental blocks of falling on gear.
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5.8 | ★★ Five Finger Discount | 15m | Red River Gorge | ★★ Very Good | Thu 8th Jun 2006 | |||
First time on it got a little wigged out, had trouble deciding how much gear to place and where. Took a rest on a piece and then moved up a move or two and found a sweet ass ledge that I should have just pulled through to.
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5.7 | ★★ Environmental Impact | 40m | Red River Gorge | ★ Good | Fri 9th Jun 2006 | |||
Small hands to full hands @ switch to slab. Kinda cool, really wigged me out though as I didn't know what to expect and tried to mess around for too long with green and red hexes. I ended up leap frogging a #1 camalot for the bottom section, and never leaving it in the crack. Would send easy with a couple extra #1 camalots and lunch. Placed a red hex at beginning in shallow stopper mode, frogged a #1 camalot, #4 camalot or purple hexentric for the wide section. Threw in a bomber .75 camalot right above, and then a super sweet #2 camalot before the anchors.
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5.10a | ★ Geppetto | Draper's Bluff | ★ Good | Fri 14th Apr 2006 | ||||
5.8 | ★★ Dust Doctor | Draper's Bluff | ★★ Very Good | Sun 14th May 2006 | ||||
Super cool trad line, pretty good for only a third trad lead ever.
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5.7 | ★★ c-crack | 24m | Draper's Bluff | ★★ Very Good | Sat 3rd Jun 2006 | |||
5.6 | ★★ bloody nose | 100m | Draper's Bluff | ★★ Very Good | Thu 13th Apr 2006 | |||
Led the first pitch placing gear. First trad lead! Short on time, so Paul led the second pitch. Great climb, I think this is the third or fourth time I've been on it.
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5.9 | ★★ Deception | Jackson Falls | ★★ Very Good | Thu 13th Apr 2006 | ||||
Led this on Paul's pre-placed gear, placed a few of my own in rest places for fun. Good climb, nice jackson trad.
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