Grade | Route | Gear style | Crag | Quality | Date | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
27 | ★★★ Kneebar Nexus | 23m, 14 | Frederick Peak | Sat 20th Oct 2018 | ||||
Such a sweet line. I feel cheap saying how all these routes are awesome, but they really are. Kneebars. So many kneebars. Oh, and a lifesaver fistjam up high! Had to dig pretty dig for this. First 27 onsight!
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V6 | ★★ Mike Delta X-Ray | Harvey’s Marbles | Sun 21st Oct 2018 | |||||
What a gnarly rock-over!
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26 | ★★ Meter Maids | 18m, 11 | Pages Pinnacle | Sun 8th Jul 2018 | ||||
Skin of my teeth. Cool climb! Love the funky pockets on this wall.
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26 | ★★★ Pigs In Space | 30m, 9 | Mt Tibrogargan | Sat 11th Aug 2018 | ||||
Sick! Punching through the boulder was a fight ... you need to work it to get anything out of those feet! Had a chat with Kurt beforehands about onsighting. He said that you needed a mixture of discerning calculation, and firm commitment. Great advice, and it came off. One of the best pitches Ive done in the Glasshouse ... although its a shame about the prolific ticking in the upper section.
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25 | ★ Full Monty | 15m, 6 | Mt Ngungun | Sat 8th Aug 2015 | ||||
25 | ★★ Binary Neil | 25m, 10 | Blue Mountains | Sat 20th Feb 2016 | ||||
Stoked! Committing to a dicey move on the slopey crimps led to the OS.
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25 | ★★★ The Reality Dysfunction | 20m, 12 | Blue Mountains | Tue 23rd Feb 2016 | ||||
Couple of tricky sections but pretty much good holds and flowy movement all the way! The topout had a sting haha.
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25 | ★★★ Grape Hour | 22m, 8 | Blue Mountains | Wed 24th Feb 2016 | ||||
Didnt read it all perfect, and lurched for a jug or two, but pulled it off! Not as straightforward as Reality Dysfunction. Had to pay a lot more attention to sequencing on this line, and got way pumped. Such a journey. Fantastic. Sone bolts were very far out though? :S
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25 | ★★ The Final Piece | 17m, 6 | Mt Tibrogargan | Wed 25th May 2016 | ||||
So I climbed something ... and didn't fall ... but I'm not sure I was on this. Didn't feel like a 25. Gonna wait till I'm back here to double check.
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25 | ★★ Terminus of Desire | 15m, 7 | Flinders Peak (limited access) | Wed 1st Jun 2016 | ||||
Yew! Took a gamble trying this as a warm-up but I managed to find my way through w/out too much pump. Soooo worth it for that compression-ey arete sequence at the start and the corner.
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22 25 | ★★ Bird of Prey (Bird Of Prey p1) | 35m, 7 | Mt Tibrogargan | Fri 4th Nov 2016 | ||||
I had suuuuch a fun time zenning out on this. So delicate and demanding of good body position and footwork. The lukewarm air, cool breezes, shade, good friends, clear head, and flock of small yellow butterflies that were adorning the mountain sent me into an awesome flow state. Refreshing!
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25 | ★★ Switch Blade Honey | 30m | Mt Tibrogargan | Sat 11th Aug 2018 | ||||
We had time for one more climb, and I wanted to hop on this, though almost retreated to do the 22 instead as it was an easier tick. Decided to pull my finger out, disregard the comfort of the 22 and go for it. Prouder of this decision than the onsight, strangely. Great moves. Hard to read. Slightly committing.
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26 25 | ★★★ Future Tense | 40m | Frog Buttress | Sun 16th Sep 2018 | ||||
Biggest climbing fight of my life. Literally shaking with a mixture of fatigue and adrenaline in the final scramble. Got overscared through the crux, thinking that my last two wires were crap and scared of the potential screaming whipper awaiting me. Turns out the top wire was ok.
Beautiful moves, clean wall, great gear, pumped arms, dry mouth, sore lungs. Sorry for the noise pollution. Epic. |
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25 | ★★★ Old Man Frederick | 25m, 13 | Frederick Peak | Sat 20th Oct 2018 | ||||
Oooooh baby! Sweet exposure once you step out left onto the steep! Love the round-a-bout beta and interesting sequencing. Loved this.
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24 25 | Let's Go Streaking | 15m | Pages Pinnacle | Mon 10th Jun 2019 | ||||
Awesome weird, cryptic, slanty climbing!
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25 | ★★ Fail Safe | 18m, 3 | Arapiles | ★ Good | Sat 30th Nov 2019 | |||
Sweet! The route's over pretty quick, although the moves are sweet!
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25 | ★★★ Tito Traverxa | 28m, 13 | Urbenville | Tue 16th Feb 2021 | ||||
The sister climb to Hot Sex, and even better due to the lack of a sketchy start! Another beautiful lime that takes you on a pleasant journey yet threatens to spit you off when you least expect it.
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25 | ★★★ Back in Black | 75m, 4 | Mt Tibrogargan | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sun 13th Feb 2022 | |||
One of the most outrageous pitches. When I got to the ledge and thought back to how wild that experience was and felt the rush of dopamine - goosebumps literally ran up my arms. A truly unique pitch.
Great day with Kyle and Nathan. Led P1 and P2. Jugged out our fixed line. P1 was adventurous with good climbing and gear. I have never cleaned off so much bird poo whilst climbing! |
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V5 | ★★★ Kinoko | 4m | Toohey Forest | Sat 19th Aug 2023 | ||||
Managed to squeak it but got ridiculously pumped at the top, and had to rest on the slopers like ai was route climbing! Thankfully managed to read the mantle before I got too flamed. Great problem miles easier than the V6
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24 | ★★ Even Monsters Can Be People | 14m, 7 | Mt Tibrogargan | Wed 3rd Jun 2015 | ||||
24 | ★★★ Thunder Birds Are Go | 25m, 9 | The Paradiso | Fri 11th Dec 2015 | ||||
What a crux! haha. Tones down from there, but enough to keep you going!
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24 | ★★ Grandma Aragog's Boob | 12m, 6 | Flinders Peak (limited access) | Sat 23rd Jan 2016 | ||||
Happy with this warmup onsight. Really enjoyed this. Looks much harder than it climbs.
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24 | ★★★ Holy Leaping Shortarses, Batman | 15m, 7 | Blue Mountains | Fri 19th Feb 2016 | ||||
One of my proudest and most improbable onsights. This whole line is to die for: the thin traverse, credit card slab, and sneaky roof. Quality!
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24 | ★★ Troc de l’Ile | 15m, 7 | Blue Mountains | Tue 23rd Feb 2016 | ||||
24 | ★★ Wet Paint | 16m, 6 | Blue Mountains | Tue 23rd Feb 2016 | ||||
Tough!!! Totally misread the crux and gassed myself and lost my flow for the rest of it. Somehow nanaged to pull through, so didn't get to to experience this route in its fullest.
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24 | ★ Hilltop Hoods | 8m, 5 | Flinders Peak (limited access) | Average | Fri 29th Apr 2016 | |||
Totally read this wrong at the beginning and got super pumped. Other than the chossy start, an okay warmup. Wouldn't give it a star.
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24 | ★★★ Worrying Heights | 30m | Frog Buttress | Mon 2nd May 2016 | ||||
What a finish to the weekend. Me and Zac had the idea to hop on this last night. Ate some lunch today, then wandered down to this while everyone else was packing up complaining about the heat. I wasn't really feeling it, but got myself prepped and ready, then the cloud-cover came over and I was like "ooooh, the weather gods are gifting us", then as soon as I stepped onto the rock this perrrrfect breeze hit! That breeze pushed me all the way to the top. That, and Zac's unfaltering encouragement. Cheers mate. Worth every star it gets! Linked with Piranha P2 to topout.
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24 | ★★ Orange Slice | 20m | The Pulpit (private land) | Sun 12th Jun 2016 | ||||
Super sweet climbing - that start is nails! There were some really interesting holds on this one!
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24 | ★★ Grab The Draw (Add The Draw) | 20m | The Pulpit (private land) | Sun 12th Jun 2016 | ||||
Really made me think hard! Almost got pumped silly but Rob was bang on when he said that this place teaches you to keep plugging on when pumped. Awesome.
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24 | ★★★ Language of Desire | 28m | Blue Mountains | Tue 20th Dec 2016 | ||||
Yeah baby. Was climbing in sun, then as I entered the crux the clouds rolled by to give me a hand, and brought the winds along with them to help me up the onsight. Cloud power!!! Wonderfully absorbing line that doesn't quite let up from whence it gets steep until you're over that final headwall.
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24 24 R | ★ 42 Wheels | 18m, 3 | Kangaroo Point | Thu 9th Mar 2017 | ||||
Had to keep my breathing slow to get to that first bolt. Lovely moves up to and over the slab. Shame you're on chipped holds, though. Slab moves are cool, too!
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24 | ★★ Down With His Pants | 20m, 3 | Frog Buttress | Sat 5th Aug 2017 | ||||
Yipyaaaah! Totally butchered the crux sequence, but it ... worked?
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24 | ★★ Strange Fruit | 25m, 10 | Mt Tibrogargan | Sun 5th Nov 2017 | ||||
A journey of a route. Some awesome exposure and great moves through interesting holds. So good.
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24 | ★★ Amadeus | 15m, 4 | Girraween | Tue 17th Jul 2018 | ||||
Awesome climbing. Going to the second bolt is mega fun.n Got freakin' scared at the top of this. I need to try and pull my head together when climbing at my limit on carrots.
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24 M1 |
★★★ Evolution
- with
Frosty
1
24
265m
2
3
4
5
6
7
23 M1
| 270m, 55 | Bungonia Gorge | Fri 17th Aug 2018 | ||||
On a fine, chilly Sunday on the way to Kozci with a legend named Frosty. What a great way to spend a day, and what an incredible crag! The position and the unique rock are outrageous. Looking forward to spending a couple weeks out here in future. The day was made all the more better by the wildlife: 2 male lyrebirds making calls to eachother (either fighting for territory or one was a gay lyrebird trying to pick up the other), a brief high-flying wombat who now less briefly is laying deceased on the gorge floor, a few peregrines, and a mumma goat and her kid that came charging around the corner to see us, and stumble over their own hooves when trying to turn around and flee as soon as they saw us. Oh yeah, and did I mention the climbing was stellar?
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24 | ★★ The Gomminator | 25m, 11 | Frederick Peak | Sat 20th Oct 2018 | ||||
Good name, and a good route. Funky class. I didn't expect it to be engaging all the way to the chains.
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23 24 | ★★★ Rampage | 20m, 11 | Frederick Peak | Sat 20th Oct 2018 | ||||
Suh-weet! Rad scoopy crux.
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24 | ★★ Yoink | 10m, 6 | Mt Coolum | Sun 3rd Feb 2019 | ||||
Actually so good! That rest is insane.
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24 | ★★ Suicide City | 20m | Frog Buttress | Sun 23rd Aug 2020 | ||||
Another great one1 Try not to fall at the crux though ... this was a bloody fight in a dress and with a gear sling! Got pumped silly but got it. Claiming the onsight, though for full disclosure I did boulder up 3 metres, placing no gear (there is none haha), jumped back down to the ground, then sent it. Onsight or not? What do you think? gets popcorn
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24 | ★★★ Hot Sex | 35m, 14 | Urbenville | Tue 16th Feb 2021 | ||||
What a journey!!! The slab in particular is a sweet position and beautiful traversing
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24 | ★★ Apocalypto | 20m, 7 | Flinders Peak (limited access) | Wed 17th Feb 2021 | ||||
Great climbing albeit close to Blood Moon.
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24 | ★★ Blood Moon | 20m | Flinders Peak (limited access) | Wed 17th Feb 2021 | ||||
Thought provoking with a tricky start.
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22 24 | ★★ Oh Mighty Gumby | 18m, 6 | Kangaroo Point | Tue 26th Oct 2021 | ||||
Quite good climbing most of the way! Top to the anchors is pretty crumbly, but in a cool way. I found the 2nd bolt to be strangely off to the right - anyone else find this?
Great work to those who rebolted KP North - very nice to climb some new routes at KP, that stay in the shade longer, too! |
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24 | ★★ Miasma - with Alex Turnbull | 20m, 4 | Kangaroo Point | Sun 19th Feb 2023 | ||||
Fantastic! The first bolt placement is an interesting decision haha, with the runout above it. Great climbing, though this line will get harder over time with the many temporary holds.
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V4 | ★★ Awesome wears no budgie smugglers | 7m | Kondalilla | Sat 6th Dec 2014 | ||||
Love this place. Onya Matt for sharing. Will be back soon.
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V1 V4 | ★★ Bowyang | 15m | Arapiles | Sun 4th Oct 2015 | ||||
V4 | ★★ 13 | 3m | White Rock Conservation Area | ★★ Very Good | Thu 20th Oct 2016 | |||
I really enjoyed this. All in all I really like White Rock slabbing! Protip: Fingerlocking/stacking in those pockets was pretty helpful. Never really done that before.
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V1 V4 | ★ The Animator | 5m | Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre | Mon 16th Apr 2018 | ||||
V4 | ★★ Wish | 3m | Springwood Conservation Park | Sun 21st May 2023 | ||||
Great!
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V4 | ★ Silent Witness - with Rob Bailey, zac, Rachael, Josh | 3m | Terrors Creek | Sun 13th Aug 2023 | ||||
Quite nice.
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23 | ★★ The Cramps | 22m, 10 | Blue Mountains | Fri 12th Dec 2014 | ||||
Pretty stoked to read the opening sequence and onsight this. That ctossover move to the incut wide juggy pinch about halfway up is awesome! Favourite holds ever!
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22 23 | ★★★ Legoland | 25m, 9 | Blue Mountains | Wed 17th Dec 2014 | ||||
23 | ★★ Wrath or Revival | 13m | Hillwood (private land) | Sun 20th Dec 2015 | ||||
Start was hard, then it layed off a little. Pumpy for the length, like all the routes here it seems.
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23 | ★ The Nightmare of Milky Joe | 20m | Flinders Peak (limited access) | Sun 10th Jan 2016 | ||||
Didn't enjoy this as much as it's 22 neighbour, but still have fun. Not great holds!
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23 | ★★★ Hot Flyer | 25m | Blue Mountains | Mon 15th Feb 2016 | ||||
Fantastic. At one of the jugs after the top crux I looked around behind me at that classic mountains vista. That's when it hit me that I was back in the Bluies! Yeahpaaa!!!
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23 | ★★★ Lyptus | 23m, 8 | Blue Mountains | Mon 15th Feb 2016 | ||||
Now this was hard. Didn't figure out the LH wrap beta on the onsight so ended up with an insane deadpoint. The wandery slab up the top was my fave bit
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23 | ★★ Alien Signature | 19m | Blue Mountains | Wed 17th Feb 2016 | ||||
This climb was a giveaway with all the ticked holds haha. Bloody great though. Love how the dynamic totally changes with the top slab.
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23 | ★★ Creep Show | 18m | Blue Mountains | Wed 17th Feb 2016 | ||||
A bit more sustained than its neighbor.
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23 | ★★ Dictator in a Deerstalker | 9m, 4 | Blue Mountains | Fri 19th Feb 2016 | ||||
23 | ★ Talking with the Tax Man | 8m, 4 | Flinders Peak (limited access) | Fri 29th Apr 2016 | ||||
The start's cool and funky!
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23 | ★★ Finger Tips and Mountain Tops | 25m, 11 | Flinders Peak (limited access) | Fri 27th May 2016 | ||||
Thought this ended earlier than it did, and got pumped silly. What a marvelous line! Really unique with the natural traverse, and it's consistent. Good eye for the line by the FA.
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23 | ★★ Fletcher in the Sky | 26m, 11 | Mt Ninderry | Fri 24th Jun 2016 | ||||
Again, felt super hard! Pumped silly and didn't climb this well, but I can
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22 23 | ★ Voyager (Voyager p2) | 95m | Mt Tibrogargan | Sat 6th Aug 2016 | ||||
Linked w/ p3. Fun laybacking up the start.
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23 | ★★ Gut Punch The Buddha (Gut Punch The Budda) | 12m, 5 | Mt Tibrogargan | Sun 23rd Oct 2016 | ||||
Loved this at the time, but was definitely outshone by Maponus p1 and Voluptuous! Linked this with Maponus p2. Even so, well worth the effort.
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23 | ★★ Maponus (Maponus p2) | 25m, 2 | Mt Tibrogargan | Sun 23rd Oct 2016 | ||||
Linked with Gut Punch the Buddha. In my opinion, there's no other way to go if you want to do Maponus p2. It's a continuous straight line bottom to top for 37m! You can rap back down to the ledge easy, as well. Aside from this, p2 was sick. A cool mix of crimpy face and some jams/fingerlocks, with surprisingly bombproof wires, and a great easy slab topout to boot!
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23 | ★★ No Membership Required | 10m, 4 | Mt Tibrogargan | Fri 4th Nov 2016 | ||||
Cool Coolum-ish jug-thugging!
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23 | ★★ Bargearse | 15m, 8 | Mt Tibrogargan | Tue 29th Nov 2016 | ||||
Oooooh my climbing libido was getting aroused on this one. Yeaaaaaah baby!
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24 23 | ★★★ Black Op's | 30m | Mt Tibrogargan | Tue 29th Nov 2016 | ||||
What a special route. The crux was cool, for sure, but the real magic lies above, in the constant moderate climbing above in an awesomely atmospheric position. Stellar. Stoked to come back here and try the rest of the routes over this side of the wall.
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23 | ★★ Tripitaka | 14m | Mt Tibrogargan | Fri 17th Feb 2017 | ||||
Went quite cruisily ... maybe the discouraging thought of a fall onto my impromptu sling-harness helped a touch Can't believe I left my harness in Brissy ... Stupidity aside, a fantastic line with delicate sequencing. Not quite as gooey as Monkey Magic.
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23 | ★★★ Epic Journey | 30m | Frog Buttress | Tue 25th Apr 2017 | ||||
Fantastic climbing and line without any real strenuous moves, all in the sequencing.
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23 | ★★ Nosy Business | 20m, 4 | Frog Buttress | Mon 5th Jun 2017 | ||||
Oooph, this caught me by surprise. I was expecting a 20. What an awesome, wandery line. Tad contrived, but brilliant in its delicacy.
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23 | ★ Relative Affection | 18m, 7 | Mt Coolum | Tue 13th Jun 2017 | ||||
Looked pretty straightforward from the ground, but was precarious with the moisture and dust. Doesn't look like it gets climbed much, but it's pretty interesting climbing!
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23 | ★ Ego | 20m, 5 | Kangaroo Point | Wed 31st Oct 2018 | ||||
Great RPs. Tricky thin crux where its best crimp crumbled in my hands, and sort of contrived at the top where the corner is just left almost within reach, but good climbing nonetheless.
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23 | ★★★ Antimatter | 25m, 9 | Freycinet National Park | Wed 11th Dec 2019 | ||||
Bloody brilliant!
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21 23 | ★ Time to Party | 15m, 7 | Pages Pinnacle | Sun 30th Aug 2020 | ||||
Cool steep section! Felt harder than 21!
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23 | ★★ Extra Shot | 18m, 9 | Urbenville | Tue 16th Feb 2021 | ||||
Great and tricky to read in spota
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23 | ★★ Botox Betty | 12m, 6 | Urbenville | Tue 16th Feb 2021 | ||||
Got suuuuuper pumped at the start but fortunately managed to stick it together to reach the jugs.
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23 | ★★ Sherlock Hemlock | 17m, 7 | Urbenville | Wed 17th Feb 2021 | ||||
These 22s/23s on the left are the best routes here imo. Nice rock, minimal chipping/gluing, great climbing!
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24 23 | ★★ Desert Treasure | 24m, 9 | Flinders Peak (limited access) | Thu 23rd Sep 2021 | ||||
What a stellar route! That arete section up high is to die for. Fantastic.
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23 | ★★ Super Charger | 20m, 10 | The Paradiso | Wed 5th Jan 2022 | ||||
Low crux was fun and the top position is class
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23 | ★★★ Close to the Sun | 48m, 23 | Mount Wellington | Sun 9th Jan 2022 | ||||
Just the first pitch unfortunately, but it was mega fun! Great punchy crux into stellar arete climbing. So much fun!
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23 | ★★★ Certified Wise | 40m | Cape Raoul | ★★★ Classic | Tue 25th Jan 2022 | |||
I felt wholly in the zone on this route. Quietly in tune with myself, the movement, the environment around us. A sharp focus, but 360 degrees of awareness. Perfect harmony, the entire way until the anchors. I'm grateful for such an experience as the last climb of what had been an incredible trip.
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23 | ★★ The Guns of Navaronne | 30m | Frog Buttress | Sun 30th Jan 2022 | ||||
A classic albeit the sub-par rock high in the corner. Still, good gear most the way and punching through the headwall is mega fun! I was scared of this for so long, but there's nothing to be scared of! Side runner with a big cam in Odin at the top on a separate line.
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23 | ★★★ Raptures HB Variant | 40m | Mt Tibrogargan | Mon 25th Jul 2022 | ||||
Doesn't look like much from the ground, but really nice climbing, especially the diagonal crack in the second pitch. Great gear, locks, and jams. I linked both pitches for full value, then placed a high piece in Trojan and ducked down into the belay cave, though you could traverse straight across if your second is okay with an easy runout traverse.
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23 |
★ Divine Comedy
- with
Kyle Addy
8
9
10
11
12
13
14
15
| 650m | Mt Beerwah | ★★ Very Good | Fri 16th Dec 2022 | |||
This was actually such a great route, and really good value for a high mileage day for fitness. A lot of terrain covered and great cardio, mixed in with various pitches of actually-good climbing in the crux pitches!
Thankfully the notably-dry winter meant that the entire climb was bone-dry, leaving only dry, dusty lichen. Kyle and I freed all pitches, him freeing the first aid pitch and me freeing the second. The upper aid pitch goes at aroudn 23 in its current state, onsighting and suffering through the dust. With a proper clean it would probably go at 22. Would be cool to exit the roof on pitch 10 next time. Simulled Martian and soloed some low-risk sections. All in all, brilliant route for a brilliant day out! Will be coming back in years to come for pre-trip fitness training. ~8.5hrs car-2-car. |
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23 | ★★ Voyevoda - with Blake, Scotty B | 22m, 3 | Girraween | ★★ Very Good | Mon 15th May 2023 | |||
Brilliant.
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V3 | ★★ Jug traverse | 3m | Cedar Creek | Sun 12th Jan 2014 | ||||
22 | ★ Pocket Calculator | 15m, 3 | Kangaroo Point | Wed 13th Aug 2014 | ||||
Enjoyable. Felt like saying take a bunch of times at the start. Feeling an improvement in moving through the mental pressure one move at a time.
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16 22 | ★★ The Governor (The Governor p4) | 320m | Mt Barney | Mon 8th Sep 2014 | ||||
Some fun climbing up to and through the chimney to a nice tree at the DBB.
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18 22 | ★★ The Governor (The Governor p8) | 320m | Mt Barney | Mon 8th Sep 2014 | ||||
Linked up pitches 8 and 9.
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14 22 | ★★ The Governor (The Governor p9) | 320m | Mt Barney | Mon 8th Sep 2014 | ||||
Linked up. Not much to say. Good lunch ledge
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20 22 | ★★ The Governor (The Governor p12) | 320m | Mt Barney | Mon 8th Sep 2014 | ||||
22 | ★ Shocking Pocket Monster | 15m | Blue Mountains | Wed 17th Dec 2014 | ||||
22 | ★★ Ruddy Norry | 14m, 4 | Blue Mountains | Sat 27th Dec 2014 | ||||
22 | ★★ Dam spooge | 12m | Blue Mountains | Sat 27th Dec 2014 | ||||
22 | ★★ Aphelion (Aphelion p4 / Rubicon p3) | 87m | Mt Tibrogargan | Mon 2nd Feb 2015 | ||||
Pretty strange, but cool moves.
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V3 | ★★ Iron-stone crimp technique | 3m | White Rock Conservation Area | Wed 29th Apr 2015 | ||||
Enjoyed this.
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22 | ★ Forsaken | 20m, 5 | Mt Ngungun | Sat 8th Aug 2015 | ||||
22 | ★★★ Child in Time | 25m | Frog Buttress | Sun 30th Aug 2015 | ||||
As much as I loved this, I can't remember it in that much detail! Flooows so nicely, and just like Oskar's awesome beta: just keep moving!
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V3 | ★★ V3 Arete | 4m | Arapiles | Sun 4th Oct 2015 |