Ascents in World as various tick types by Christoph Rauch

After bailing from "Spiralweg", we had to rush a bit to get a route done before the risk of rain got too high. The first pitch is quite good, but really hard for the grade, a steep dihedral, sometimes overhanging with unusual movements for the average Frankenjura climber. I used a single cam before the belay, the rest was relatively well-protected (3 bolts and a few pitons). The second pitch is easier, but also relatively exhausting due to the chimney action. Also, the backpack gets in your way. Again, only needed one cam. Pitch 3 contains the best and the worst climbing of the route. The well-protected crux at the beginning has fantastic rough rock and good moves, then the rock becomes utterly crappy and basically everything you touch threatens to crumble under your grip. The fourth pitch is a nice exercise in slab climbing, and the last pitch is an easy chimney (careful, some wet bits). I terribly underestimated the descent. The guidebook (Panico) also doesn't really tell you that you have to cross steep grass along the edge of a 100 m cliff without a path. In addition to that, it slowly started to rain, so we needed to get off the grass quickly. We did the final section on a short piece of rope with cams placed between us.

Aid pitch through the roof (from the anchor of Halber Hermann), set up hanging belay in the original position due to rope drag. Short pitch to the book case, then up over the bulge to the place where Schuhmacher comes in from the left. The top part was wet, so I decided to finish the Schuhmacher route.

Almost free ascent of the oldest route here. First pitch up to the last Bühler bolt is relatively straightforward and easier than I thought it would be, around 6+. The traverse along the narrow, chossy ledge to the right, then up and back left again on the next ledge, was the most challenging part, protected only by a peg. Belay is only one Bühler bolt without any other solid placement options. Second pitch is where the actual adventure starts. One meter to the left, then up an easy groove with highly dubious, hollow structures. Solid cam placement after a few meters, though. Difficult to get up onto the next ledge because all the holds are loose (two good pegs on the left). From here it's a long traverse to the right. I chose to go up a bit first and pass behind the tree for additional free protection (and more solid rock), but it's probably also possible to stay below it. Someone placed an expansion bolt where the exposed part of the traverse starts, placed a good cam there nevertheless to be sure. You really get to feel the exposure once you reach the corner, which is the part of the wall sticking out the most. Shortly after that, you're presented with a rusty peg and the ledge gets narrow to the point of disappearing. This is the only section that I didn't climb freely; pulled the sling and stretched over to the good hand crack at the belay (again, a single Bühler bolt, but with a fantastic cam backup), not only because the sun had already set a good while ago, and because the wall seemed to break away at this point more and more. What follows is certainly the money pitch, a glorious, waved hand crack in solid rock. Unfortunately, it's relatively short and the last few meters are total choss again (grab the grass, trust me!). All in all a great and certainly memorable route. Experience in chossy terrain absolutely essential.

Amazing wall climbing with lots of difficult sections. Small comb-shaped structures, slopery sections, shallow underclings, small water drop pockets, friction slab, arête, this route has it all. Had to gather some courage a few times to continue doing difficult and insecure moves far above the rings. The friction slab traverse to the arête in the end almost threw me off, I was so glad when I was standing on the final ledge

Pretty awesome and a prime example for the "practice for the alps" attitude of the early 20th century. Each pitch is in principle reachable without climbing, but the route is certainly more than the sum of its pitches. We climbed the grassy ledge to the cave. In hindsight, crawling in via the sloped ledge from the right is the better option; easier and less vegetation. The second pitch is great crack climbing in good rock. The final section is best climbed as a narrow chimney, but I made the mistake to climb it on the outside, which felt a bit scary. Then a traverse to the good belay on the left. Bovist led the section from that belay to a bolt above the edge, then I continued with the rest of pitch three, which is basically just walking up grassy ledges. Pitch four starts with an awesome little crack dihedral, quite tricky. I decided to set up another belay directly above to make communication easier. The last section is a little corner, but rather climbed frontally on the left. You can walk off, the fence has been removed.

Disclaimer: the rating is only valid for masochists. Traverses through the whole crag. It's already a bit sketchy to the first bolt, but the real treat awaits on the way to the second. I basically kneeled on the sandy, sloping ledge with my left leg while selecting the most solid footholds on the right. The second bolt is at least 5 to 6 meters away from the first, so falling there would get you very close to the ground in a big swing, scrubbing against the brittle rock. From the second bolt on, the rock quality improves drastically, also due to the fact that the traverse crosses the sport climbing routes, so the middle section is really fun and reminded me a bit of "Die Gelbe". Set up belay at the original belay bolt before the merger into "Karl Diener Gedenkweg" because it would have been a close call in one pitch with a 50 m rope. The second pitch is then quite short, but still enjoyable despite the rock getting dirtier again.

The route I wanted to start the trip with was occupied, so we did this one instead. Tough one to get used to the climbing here again. Difficult slab moves to an overhanging rib (slings), over the rib to the first ring. The hardest part for me was to get to the third ring: friction moves and a sort of rockover to a very high foot about 3 to 4 meters above the second ring. The top section is a nice and easy wall on crimps and some pockets.

Funny first pitch with a crawl through the little cave. A bit moist above the cave, though. Second pitch was perfectly dry and a real treat, surprisingly good dihedral climbing, slightly overhanging in the upper part above the second bolt (not sure which of the two bolts in the second pitch was there originally, but it used to be only one).

One of only two routes in the Bühler guidebook marked as "sehr lohnend". No objections. Spectacular journey for the grade. The first pitch is already quite interesting with a technical passages over the bulges. Fun traverse at the start of the second pitch (a bit strenuous, try to keep your body close to the wall), followed by a glorious, juggy vertical section to a little alcove and an exposed finish to the right of it.

Great crack climbing in the first pitch, although the start is quite brittle (two good placements for nuts or small cams, though). Belay on the ledge (you can do it in one pitch as well, though, but then make sure to extend the bolt at the belay), then a rather delicate section along the chossy arête to a great headwall. Replaced the book because it fell apart.

Not sure what's "direct" about the line, but I guess the original traversed in from even further right via "Talkante". Relatively straightforward climbing, but an interesting path along the weaknesses of the rock. From the bolt below the overhang, you originally walk over the ledge to "Nordschlucht". I was told the finish up top from there was 6-. Which I doubted already when looking at it, but still I tried. Turned out to be "Luftikus".

The start still felt hard. Didn't need any gear in the second pitch (linked them again) this time, the route saw some repeats and so it was a little cleaner than last time. #warmup

One of Franken's "big walls". Scramble up the dihedral to the chimney (first bolt after 10 m), then squeeze in and wiggle yourself up the narrow thing. It's way easier than climbing it on the outside and also quite safe (although thereby you skip the first bolt of "Sarg" of course). At the chockstone, I first thought I'd have to go into the traverse protected with just a nut, but there's a bolt just a meter up, yay! The traverse was definitely the hardest part of the route. Quite delicate, no wonder it was done using rope tension in the old days. The downclimb after the belay was much easier than anticipated. We left a long sling in the bolt for the second, though, so if you don't want to climb up there again, it might be best to do the abseil. From there, I knew the route since I'd done KEK-Verschneidung already, and actually that is the most enjoyable part of the route. Really tricky for 5+, though, that bit.

Classic journey through the wall. Hope I got the directions right. ;-) Shouldn't have linked pitch 2 and 3, the rope drag at the top was terrible. Pitch 3 is hardly ever done today, because it involves crawling along a ledge with lots of rubble on it (don't climb it if people are still on the wall below). Instead, you can use the new direct finish (pitch 2 of Damokleskante) if you want to top out (70 meter rope necessary if you want to abseil via "Falco").

Tough one! I didn't climb the actual start, but started right into the second half from the last bolt of "Direkter Plattenweg". Powerful overhang which I attacked a little to the right of the ring to do a big rockover on the left foot above the bolt. Then a few meters of nothingness in a terribly shallow dihedral (if you can even call it that). Sketchy moves first lead a little to the left (to gain a mediocre crimp), then again to the right. Foot even popped off at one point and I have no Idea how I stuck to the wall.

Not as brittle as the name might suggest … except maybe the upper third. Quite long and the protection is sensible. Interesting section over the little overhang. A decent climb as long as it's clean.

Abseiled down from the belay ledge to the ledge shared with "KEK-Verschneidung" this time, as indicated in the old Bühler guidebook. Less scary that way.

Set up belay after the chimney, then climbed up to the last bolt of "Sarg", put a new book in the box, threaded the bolt, then lowered down to the belay again and climbed the traverse to the big belay ledge, nice way to provide a top rope for the second. Also put a new book in the box at the belay.

Seconded it again up to the ledge to retrieve the material from the lower two thirds #barefoot

Climbed it in two pitches. Aided the difficult move at the start, makes a lot of sense there. Set up belay at the third bolt to climb the direct finish, which starts there.

Very nice route with two parts. The first two thirds you follow a beautiful, leaning arête (slings possible), then still along the arête, but sometimes in the right wall on ironstone holds past two glue-ins to a small ledge (ring). The upper part is wall climbing with a crack in the beginning (sling!) past two more glue-ins (crux is to climb to and past the second bolt) to a big rappel ring. Recommended!

Lowered down from the top of Sachsenriss to the belay. Enjoyable climbing in good rock with interesting structures. Easy to add additional protection. Funny crawl behind the huge chockstone in the end. Couldn't find an anchor anywhere, so we walked over to the anchor of Sachsenriss again. (Careful, best use a tree to abseil down to the bolt, it's quite exposed!)

Wonderful easy route, more a walk than a climb, but with a nasty little passage at the beginning, justifying the grade. You can just pull on the draw, though, then it's something like a grade 2 or 3 up to the finishing crack, which is again a little harder (but not exceeding grade 5, I'd say), but can be climbed nicely as a narrow chimney. Really worthwhile!

Climbed the first pitch lead solo while waiting for my climbing partner, cleaning the holds on the fly. Actually nice climbing in the traverse. Lead the second pitch normally, then. Good crack dihedral at the start, then the rock gets brittle, unfortunately (and there are no more bolts, so take some gear). With a few more ascents per year, this could become much better (again, I'm sure it was climbed quite often ages ago).

Had to fight with vegetation on the first 8 meters a bit, but triumphed. The first piece of protection is a rusty peg with a ring, not exactly trustworthy, but not a lot of good placements around, so it's best to wrap a sling around it. A meter above, there's a mediocre slot for a small silver Dragon cam. Beautiful traverse to the left to the first actual bolt of the route. From then on, it's well-protected and worthwhile. In fantastic, pristine rock up through an overhang to a narrow ledge below a roof. The book case is sadly missing. Another traverse to the left below the roof on jugs, then airy bridging via a block into the chimney, which is unfortunately quite brittle. It's best to crawl up to the vista and walk down.

Great crack dihedral with solid, safe jams almost throughout. Crux at the Bühler bolt high up.

Dream line through the west face with quite a few rings. Quite directly up the western arête, then through the middle of the headwall with a crux on thin holds. A slightly overhanging finish leads you diagonally rightwards to the summit (nuts and cams possible here). Extending the second ring and maybe the one in the crux is advisable.

The second pitch is definitely easier than "Alter Weg", but I still don't believe the traverse after falling over to the tower is possible for 5+.

Traverse around the whole rock from the south to the north via the west face. Just one little section of actual climbing which is a steep little boulder, the rest is relatively easy. The start is a little overgrown but it's not a problem.

Alpine adventure, rope management is key, but also not ripping off holds in the brittle but beautiful middle section.

Might have been the first free ascent, but at least the first ascent for a few decades. Freshly re-equipped and cleaned from extremely loose material, but still dusty, dirty and with some choss, so a helmet and a brush is recommended. The big block in the roof seems to be relatively stable, held in the crack by the two rusty pegs left and right. Has an anchor at the top of the easy groove (which was already printed in guide books for ages, but not actually there …).

Fantastic, long slab climb. The start is quite bold, micro-cams helpful before the first ring, which is hard to spot from the ground. After that you don't really need anything beside the rings. We went all the way up to the top, there's a long runout after the last bolt, you shouldn't fall there. Most people probably lower off somewhere below, but it's actually worth doing the finish if you can deal with it mentally. #lastrouteoftheday

Grand adventure. Good placements all over the place make it a joyful experience. Divided it into two pitches. The second part is tricky, but rewarding.

Adventurous route through a dihedral with very good rock quality (but less than optimal protection, so bring nuts and slings) and a glorious roof finish which turns out to be easier than it looks. The unprotected slab in the end (with good holds and a few placements, though) adds to the spice. Maybe bring some secateurs for the roses …

Cool line along the obvious arced crack. Good moves, balancy in lots of places; good footwork is helpful. Better lower at the last bolt, there's no anchor above, so you'd have to traverse further to the right and finish up "Schluchtweg".

Tiny friend needed for between the first and second bolt. The section from the ledge can be protected with another small cam and a medium nut in the crack above. A bit dirty, not climbed very often I guess.

Marvellous, straightened classic (as far as I know, the original bailed out left below the rooflet, where the best part begins). The layback crack after the rooflet is brilliant. A nut or small friend soothes the nerves before the last bolt, though it's not really difficult there. High quality rock, great line.

Probably hasn't seen more than one or two ascents in the last 5 years. The pen in the book doesn't work anymore, unfortunately. The route leads through 10 to 15 meters of vegetation first, which will keep away most people already. The upper part is quite good, though. Up a nice flake onto a little slab, then well-protected up a short wall with mediocre holds (footwork is important, I gave the more obvious holds a brush afterwards but I doubt this will help the next person … who knows when someone will crawl up here?) up to a nice finishing crack. There's no anchor at the top, so you better lower from the last bolt.

Impressive line. One of the more serious offerings around due to the rock quality in the first half, but definitely worth it. The most rotten and sandy rock is before the first bolt, anyway. From there, it’s actually relatively well-protected to the belay ledge, which figures, because that seemed to be the hardest part for me, intricate crack dihedral with difficult foot placement. Glorious second pitch: airy, exposed, slightly overhanging dihedral with an abundance of holds and good movements. Only one bolt in around 20 meters, though; big cams, nuts and slings are helpful.

The traverse at the beginning of the second pitch is quite challenging, for both leader and second. Not as chossy as I had imagined, but the footholds are indeed a bit crumbly. Once you're through, the rest is enjoyable climbing with quite a few bolts. Black and white rock take turns.

I actually wanted to climb "Talseite" but let myself be fooled by the shiny Bühler bolt on the left. The middle third is weird, the bolt suggests to climb directly up via the crack. This is certainly possible, but felt harder than 6- and is difficult to impossible to protect, moreover a bit chossy and I didn't dare to make the last few moves to the ledge due to vegetation, so I carefully downclimbed and went slightly left through a mossy crack. The last few meters are great, exposed arête climbing on jugs. #warmup

Alpine endeavour. Careful, there's a big loose block on the ledge after the big dihedral, better don't even touch it! The hardest part is just above an old peg, and to make things worse, the jugs are buried under patches of grass, which are inhabited by ants. Best abseil from a tree above the anchor of "Oiga" to the left (40 m) or walk down. Careful if other people are climbing the routes on the right. I noticed a bit late that we were climbing directly above them and had to be extra careful not to throw rocks. Sorry again!

Straight up in the highest section of the crag. The direct start to R3 with an easy but runout (and vegetated) middle part. We extended to the top via the second pitch of "Damokleskante". The original finish variant of R3 traverses left on the last ledge instead of going up via the smooth slab.

Hard to arrange for an ascent in one pitch. You basically have to leave out the second bolt of "Talseite" (which was added later, anyway … leading to more vegetation on the path of least resistance, but that's another story) and extend the bolt on the ledge, then extend the next bolt of "Rosenkranz", leave out the first bolt of the actual route around the corner, and, again, extend the next bolt. From there it's straight up along the arête, probably hardly ever climbed, had to partially dig out the nice old ring bolt further up. Probably better to climb the direct variant nowadays.

Long, astonishingly horizontal traverse, especially given that it's going on for about 40 meters. You gain about 5 meters of height at the start, then traverse below a roof with bad feet and not a lot to hold on to. The protection at this point is also mediocre, two spaced out Bühler bolts with a rusty peg in the middle that has not been driven into the rock completely, so it's best to sling it. This is the crux, but the fun isn't over. A little green after the second Bühler bolt, but manageable and relatively easy to the belay. Second pitch gets you around a round pillar via a slanted ledge (do not climb up the crack as indicated in some guide books; climb down half meter instead, then continue traversing); crouching is the best option. Careful, the holds at the start of the ledge are brittle. Luckily, there's a good bolt there. It's best to set up belay once again at the book case. After two more meters of traverse, you can then heave yourself up onto another little ledge with a roof over it and crawl along it around the corner; the ledge gets steeper, though, so the finish is again a bit bold. Funny exit through a narrow tunnel to the vista.

If you‘re looking for easy climbing with maximum exposure, look no further. Had to clean the (original) second pitch a lot from dirt to make its middle part climbable again, so we linked P1 and P2, but set up belay on the ledge after the second bolt. Once the footholds were dug out, the traverse into the alcove was exciting but easy (err, well, disregarding the thorns, but they‘re gone now). The rest of the route is clean and in a fantastic position, traversing along big features above the lip of the grotto, only air beneath your feet for 25 meters. Perfect rock in the third pitch. Probably first ascent in decades.

One of the most striking lines here, a leaning crack through the whole face. Wide hand crack to the first bolt, then a tricky section up to the point where you can dive into the crack. From there it gets easier, but always interesting 3d climbing. One or two cams in between the bolts are sensible, especially because you need to extend some bolts (they are quite far back). The last few meters are again quite challenging. Fun route!

Quite solid for 8-, but I'm not talking about the rock quality. Splintery after the first bolt (of the route proper), but rapidly improving. The bolt spacing is perfect, but airy. Well, as long as there are bolts. The last third or so, when climbed directly up, was kept unbolted. Most people probably bail out to the right into "Direkte Nebelsteiner", but the direct line is really worthwhile, with lots of jugs and a few decent placements (tricams might be great).