Ascents in World by Lee Cujes

Did the gnarly crack easily without tape (2nded FFA 8/7/03)

Absolute skin of the teeth!

pinkpoint

The leaning, low-angle pillar, and wide shaft behind. The delicate crux is on the slabby pillar (no pro), so don't fall off! The first ascent was soloed onsight with a rope trailed for the second.

Hard glassy crack through bulge. Felt 24.

Onsight solo in walking boots

seconded the FFA

Not much more room for new routes that go up. So we go sideways.

Starts 1m L of arete. Up thin weakness to break (cam). Short smooth section (crux with a FH) then overhung juggy top. Belay off chains a way back.

Big dyno out into space. Woo!

100m of frictional, overbolted granite/gneiss. 5 pitches, climbed in 2.

Contrived

Classic thin finger crack corner. First recorded ascent.

2nd shot. Brutal hard moves.

17/7/05 send [2/3]. 7/12/03: TR rest

There's just no easy way to do this one! (2/9/01: seconded the FFA with a rest)

2nd shot. Screaming in pain. Finger shreading, they hurt for days afterwards.

A 4m traverse crux complete with double kneebars.

That's what you get when you have to pay $119 AUS for a 20 minute taxi ride.

p1 of Sea Monsters. Deceptively pumpy.

fell off last hard move again! [1/2]

First recorded ascent

Hideous. Dogged the crux.

First trip back for 08. 7 routes.

Very long, very pumpy. #2 camalot didn't fit in the crucial pocket. Argh!

Desperate snatching

Old school Blueies vertical nightmare

First attempt - dog. Pulled all moves. Damn hard bouldery throw. A four move wonder, but challenging!

The obvious line of orange scoops up the main wall. One biiig move.

pinkpoint

Quite good, watch the gear

Plane leaving...no time...must send...argh

Strained something in my chest on the start which made breathing painful for about 4 hours.

not my cup of lipton

Contrived and terrible. James - how could you?

sustained. great rock on headwall.

Second go hung the holds, moved around a bit but couldn't do the dyno.

I couldn't move off such small holds. Way thin!

Super nice technical face. Like sandstone.

4th shot. Fell off the extension. If you like bouldering, this is probably a good 13a. Otherwise, it's tough.

Sam's first clean route at Rifle!

wtf? Got too 'on route' i.e. too direct. 1 fall.

Quite okay, but the pro is iffy until half height

up to the final bulge (poor pro)

Onsight. 5m R of Force Of Habit. Up the cracked pillar. Quite a well-worn naturally protected beginner route. The crux (such that it is) is down low.

p3 of Sea Monsters up the slab

Battled my ring off. Did the direct.

"Zis is one of the most beautiful climbs at zie cliff"

Leaning corner

Sharp coral rock on this sector

I'm giving it mega for the top pitch which is a superb and unique patina crimp pitch. I've done harder 23's than this link-up. Sustained and tricky to read no-chalk onsight.

2 burns. Fucking hard.

Power endurance. 8a for sure. [4]

Slabby arete overlooking the ocean

Nails dude, almost off

Was 14 M1 30 years ago. Nice.

2nd shot

First shot couldn't even hang the holds

Freed the aid through the roof for the first free ascent.

some gear was on

The arete. True onsight. Way pumpy.

Man, this is a really crappy old cliff. Don't go here!

pic

gear on

fell off last hard move on first attempt (TR)

Seriously scary protection! Not for the beginner.