Ascents in World by Johannes Pielmeier having sport-cpr or ascent-date

First 8b! A crucial hold (knob/bulge) in the first crux broke off this year, so I had to find another beta going through the slopers and skipping a clip. Its a really cool boulder problem and definitely much harder than before, so I don't think it's a soft 8b anymore. North/West wind and low humidity was crucial for the send.

Superb route with kneebars on tufa snakes and a dynamic finish over the lip, as the name suggests. One of the best routes I have climbed!

Very nice dynamic move!

After 13 tries I finally sent this amazing line! It was my first "real" project, where I really had to find and refine the beta. On the second day on the project I broke off a good crimp in the top part after the crux moves. It doesn't make the route harder in my opinion. The route is quite powerful with many gastons and has great friction, since almost nobody has climbed it before, as it has been a project for many years.

Watch my full ascent on Youtube:

Fun tufa stemming to the anchor.

First 8a in one day

The 3rd anchor is at the long red quickdraw by the jug that looks like a tooth. Crux is to get to the tooth hold

Excellent dynamic moves with two distinct cruxes. Make sure to climb on the right side into the crux of the 7c+. If you climb too far left its too easy for 8a. Climbed the wrong way on the first go, but did it 2nd go, flashing the second crux

Super nice athletic route! Loved the coffin rest ⚰️ Fell twice just before the chains , because I was SUPER pumped and didn't pay much attention to the beta on the "easy" part after the last quickdraw.

Slopers and crimps, just like in Skandinavia

High quality drone-beta-video of the ascent by Anders Handler:

https://youtu.be/me4I_ErRZlo?feature=shared

Desperate slap to a big sloper just before the anchor. Awesome route!

Excellent power endurance climbing!

Technical face climb into a great tufa-blob overhang with many kneebars and a dynamic finale!

High Quality Video of Full Ascent on Youtube:

https://youtu.be/tyvF3Gyld28?feature=shared

Excellent moves and good flow! Should have done it 2nd GO, but I didn't rest enough between attempts. It was freezing in the cave. Also, after a lot of rain be aware of a lot of seeping in the cave.

First 8a! Many good rests between harder sections.

Made it through the crux again and it was in the bag, but slipped on a plant as if I was standing on ice! 3rd Go