Ascents in World by Michael Picone having sport-cpr or ascent-date

My first 13a in total it took me 7 attempts spread out over 4 days to finish. This was my long term target from when I climbed my first 5.9 in Linan several years ago so was a pretty great moment.

The climb is broken up into a some very basic climbing early into the first main crux where you need to hug the rock and work your way past it, not overly hard but awkward. Then into a good rest before moving up into a crack where the fun really begins. lots of very small holds and non existent feet, take your time memorise the beta and and make it happen! oh and make sure your feeling brave for the top out haha

cool crux between 5-7th bolt, also love that the top is not a give away and turns into a total pump session. on my 4th attempt I feel at the anchor it was a total heart breaker haha.

Managed to get the onsight clipping draws and rope as I went up, new personal best and was more than a little fired up at the top.

Worked it once and then took three red point attempts to finish it. Wasn’t to bad probably easy for the grade but gotta take the easy ones when you can 😂

Sharp two finger pocket was a killer in the crux. I found a high left heel hook onto the jug where your left hand sat made it relatively easy to move up.

Worked it ground up once and got it on my first red point burn. I’m pretty convinced my beta through the crux using my right toe upside down on the big step in a drop knee position was not the most efficient way through but it worked haha 😂

Worked it once and then took two red point attempts to get it. Super chill until it heads into a big move up to the right followed by a few moves on tiny super sharp crimps.

Really enjoyed this climb. worked the route 2 times on day one to get the beta, then came back a few days later and got it on my 2nd red point attempt. The crux was about half way up the route and felt like a v5? boulder. the gaston with the small edge wouldn't work with my fat fingers so I eventually found I could use a shitty pinch to get through, once I worked that out I was home free. (To me it still felt potentially hard for the grade with some very polished feet...)

Rested overnight and came back and knocked it over. Really happy with this climb the difficulty is all in the 3rd 4th and 5th draw after that it eases off and just more of an endurance slog. high high high up the wall.

3 attempts to get this completed. Grade could be substantially easier if you can find an easier beta over the hump.

missed the onsight stupidly as I didn't see the pocket. easy for the grade.

I think there was chalk showing people heading left of the first two draws but I believe the route should head to the right side of the first two draws which has a difficult and powerful boulder move.

There was sign of two massive wasp nests but both no longer have wasps in them (thankfully)

Was a pretty hard onsight clipping in draws on my way up definitely added to the pump. Crux is in the mid section where it looks like there should be good holds but everything pointing the wrong way haha. Joe and I both made the comment it felt like it had a hard crux sequence for 11b and I later noticed in his guide its recorded as 11d. So maybe 11c is more accurate?

Easy for the grade but was nice to have something easy for the grade as a reward for climbing some of the worlds hardest warm up routes this trip haha

fun climb, all comes down to one move onto a bad hold then moving into an undercling with the large majority of the climbing being quite easy...

Really fantastic climb. starts off with some slab/face style climbing before a good rest which is perfect as you are about to clip onto a sketchy but oddly exciting chain that hangs down in space. the style of climbing then changes to more powerful with a really boulder problem style crux leading into some better tufa type holds.

Worked the moves for two days and then this morning it just kinda clicked on the upper part of the crux so then just lowered and got it first attempt from the bottom.

really nice crux section up high, and generally enjoyable climbing.

second pitch 11b seemed easy for the grade

All in the first couple meters off the ground. was lucky enough to see some different beta and got it straight away.

big goal for my trip ticked off!... I only just got over the lip to the ledge and boy was I glad when I made it. Awesome hand then later foot sequence to be dialled in and executed.

Super nice climbing. cool hand match at the time you foot match moving left to right in the crux.

I think I didn't actually do this route I think I got on a new route which was to the right of Lap dance which I absolutely loved maybe my favourite climb of the trip. consistent fun crimps and small edges. probably 5.10d?

This climb had the veins popping out of my arms so bad. just completely drains you.

good climb, requires quite a few powerful moves to keep you moving up but there are two different hand free rests you can get so use them well.

Crux was a nice solve on the onsight.

To finally get the tick on this climb I took about 4x4min rests at the various resting points (of which there are many). all so I could finally have enough power to complete the high crux before the top out. it was just a complete power endurance test piece and I quite obviously was lacking the power. took three attempts.

crux coming out of the roof really isn't so bad just got to trust a hold you dont want to trust. top section is really fine.

All in the top, nice climb... super pumpy