Ascents in World as Red point by Mark Gamble

Another approach at this one. No one on the mountain.

After a bit of experimenting around the mountain, I spotted this line and thought it climbable. The route itself was a bit tricky with loose rock here and there.

Must have been having a very good day on the day when I said this was only a 15! Found it pretty full-on 2nd time around. Ben did very welll, leading almost all but the crux pitch. 8.10.04 I was a bit hesitant about climbing this on such a hot day (36), but didn't have much choice in the matter. Steve had this day alone to climb before he left Australia, so upwards it was. I don't think I have ever been so dehydrated as I was on this day! A set of nuts is really all you need for this one. I would say it's a 15.

Couldn't get my head around the start of Plunging For Mud Bunnies, so went for this one instead. Dave belayed.

Had another go at it today with Dave. Love it! The best 19 at KP in my books!

With Ron & Alastair. I wrestled with the crux again, a fall could be nasty.

Finally worked up the courage to do it. Has some nice moves on it, needs more protection below 2nd overhang to protect nasty run-out above dodgy gear. With Ron,Dan then Proude showed up.

With Ron. This feels more like a 16. Always a nice climb tho.

With Terry & Lillian. Once again, one of my absolute favorites at KP.

With Dave. Went better than Halva.

This is a lovely lead, with some bolts & some trad gear.

With Johan. I really like this one, great moves and good gear most of the way, pity about the bolts tho.

Had to have a lead on this one, one of my absolute favorites at KP. Hold above the last bolt was wet & slimey which made the move interesting.

With Ron & Alastair.

With Susy. I lead P2 and some of P3(before I chickened out at the crux).

Typical Tibro, runout in places on thin gear. I originally 2nd Dave up this one late 2002 & now had the chance to lead it. Rock gets rather friable & scarey over the last 10m. Nice w/e at the GHs with the EFC gang camping at the Roy's Road CG.

This is a pretty safe lead. Can't believe Darrin has downgraded it to an 18! In terms of effort, it's easily as hard as Juice or ATGR - both 20s. Thanks Terry for the belay.

What a terrific line, why on earth did someone put all those bolts right next to trad placements? Dan belayed.

Talked Dave into giving me a belay again on this one. Still go-ey after all these years. 21.12.2002 I owe Andy Martin this onsight. He encouraged me to do it & belayed on the day. Fortunately he decided not to tell me that my one & only piece of gear had popped before I clipped the bolt, I think I would have freaked otherwise. Neat climb. Luke who attempted it before me, fell off, poor guy.

With Steve. Better than I had expected with some interesting moves around the tree & thru the caves.

Almost backed off this one. I was just about to, when I spotted a hold I had missed previously up high, but nice moves and nice link up to Hope.

A quick solo up behind Matt & Barbara from the UK, who had to leave for Perth today.

Dunno about the 10 rating this gets on thecrag.com, I think 9 is on the money. Had to get Tyson's nut back from the day before, but it was a nice climb anyway. Met a nice S.A. couple at the belay.

I was in the thick of the Bendigo Uni group's assault on the Organ Pipes (4 couples & 2 instructors), when I went up to do this one. Fortunately the couple who were going to lead it had not started as yet. I was just about to back off, 15m up, thinking & "Geez this is awfully goey for a 7", when I remembered the guide mentioning moving to the L of the pinacle around this point. The topping out bit (P3) proved tricky (smooth chimney with no holds or gear), so I opted to traverse left & up jugs on steeper but more secure territory. Bit stiff for a 7 - The Spiral Staircase (8) was easier than this.

Was going to solo either this or Orpheus, but forgot my copy of the guide, I've never been able to find the so-called marks on the rock, so started up what I could assume was 1 or the other - turned out to be Prometheus.

With Geoff. Got it down to 4hrs this time.

We knew at the time it was good, but in retrospect it's definitely a classic.

Was going for Preservative Added, but managed to talk myself out of it at the crux of this one, so opted for this one. Josh from the U.S. belayed & 2nded.

These 2 8s were pretty straight forward.

Things have cooled down enough to enjoy a sprint up the mountain.

Had this one in my sights for a while now. Aside from the vegetated chimney, the moves were quite nice. Gear was rather finiky & bit run-out in places. Terry patiently belayed in the hot sun, thanks mate, you're a champ!

With Wayne. Still couldn't handle the crux move.

Daniel wanted to lead it, but had to back off so I finished it up. 4.02 OSF Damien belayed. Some nice moves and good gear make for an enjoyable climb.

Lead this one slightly different to Jay's lead, & thought it very easy for the grade. No harder than Wizard's Back (16) at Frog. 15.3.05 Gutsy lead by Jay Hay. Can't believe Asteroid gets an extra grade - the crux on this one is definitely more go-ey & run-out than the crux on Asteroid. Said hello to the beast & fondled him as I went past. Some of the best air (exposure) I've experienced at Araps.

Not a line that will ever see a repeat. Dislodged about 4 pieces, one larger than a football had Dan & Dave scurrying for cover. Dave belayed - Dan 2nded.

Took Laila, Torbjorn & Tina up this one today. Great day out on the rock.

With Mike Meadows, Greg Sheard & Ricarda Thier - what an honour it was to climb with these guys who climbed with Rick back then just after he put this one up & hear the stories of climbing in yore. Got P5 & 6 better sorted this time, but made the wrong start on P8. Looks do-able but dangerous. The reason, according to Mike, that Rick never repeated it.

After The Bard with Andrew & Neil in semi darkness.

Looked do-able from the ground. a run-out at the start, but otherwise OK with gear. Jack 2nded.

With Peter & Gynther. What a terrific climb, but just as well we got an early start. I pity those who followed us up later, what a scorcher of a day - gasp!

Pretty cruisy.

Another absolute classy beginners lead route, with great holds & bomber gear all the way.

With Torbjorn & Tina. He lead Ps 1-4, I lead P5.

Very nicely picked by Rob. Aside from the initial friable flake, this is surprisingly good climbing.

With Bruce. He lead all but p2. Glandular is kicking in again, got my knickers in a twist at the crux & had to take the back pack off to get it. Attempted the variant P2 & backed off. Just as well, Bruce tried it on 2nd & couldn't manage it.

My first solo - well if one doesn't count the tourist tracks on Tibro (1) & Berrwah (2). What a rush that was - onsighting the route to boot!

With Dave. Finally got the mantle. 15 pieces of gear.

With Dave = all good. Some question of that last tricam placement.

God it was nice to get out again after the intensity of the TAFE exams.

Spotted this line while scouting out N. Mitre & without having the guide handy knew I had to go for it. An absolute classic layback flake, what a romp. Again the guide lists this as a 10.

With Wayne. He got a little off route on P2, otherwise it all went well. Zoomed up it in 4.5 hrs this time - what a change from the last ascent!

With Macca.

With Dave. Knocked it off in just over 4hrs.

Took my brother David up this one on rope. He enjoyed it.

Wow - bridging problems like this just don't exist in Qld.

I actually started out to solo Prometheus I, but looking at what I thought was Felp, I started up the wide gully & quickly got off route (if I ever was in the right place to start with). Anyway, for posterity: Start on the RHS of the big gully below the face with the prominent yellow streaks at the top. Up easy gr.1 rock, trending R, following the LoLR, step R across V-groove and continue up steepening rock till holds runout, then 2m R along sloping ledge to aréte, step carefully around the sharp aréte, avoiding loose blocks, into overhanging corner, up this passing a small bush & ledge above. up slightly easier rock above, again trending slightly R till you arrive at the vegetated terrace. L through this to slaby corner on R, & up the slab & bush bash to the tourist track.

Finally got to tick my first '5'. Every time I tick a 5 it's regraded on thecrag. My vanity knows no bounds - I only did this one to fill in the blank on my bar chart! But the crag is rather a hidden gem. This one I thought tough for the grade - harder than say Exodus at Mitre Rock which is a 6

Very good. Had to do something or I'd go stir crazy. After it rained all night, I spent most of the day in Horsham, but it fined up enough to do these couple of routes in the arvo.

With Ron & Steve. The challenge this time was not to use a cam! Used the new Tricams & Slider Nuts a lot! Love 'em.

My first ascent on return to Ozland! Wrong time of day tho, the afternoon sun was a killer. This was unbelievably deja vue for me, recalling the ascent I made with my father 34 years earlier.

Finally got it. Unfortuately, very unfortunately, Ron couldn't get past the crux, so I grabbed Megan Randall to clean the gear. 18 peices of gear in and I wouldn't fall on one of them!

One reachy move on an inside corner & it was all over.