Routes in World for selected grade

The must-do crag classic, featuring the biggest and most aesthetic horns and jugs on the wall. When this was first bolted, there was nobody strong enough to climb it. Oh how things change!

This is the extension to Screaming Insanity. No harder, just pumpier! Three more bolts keep the lactic levels up.

Starts a few metres right of Hung Like a Fruit Bat. Stick clip. Jump start, up, then across the roof and finish at HLAFB chains. Similar style to Fruit Bat, at a harder grade.

Pumpy, steep greatness! Popular. Batman to the first bolt of TWoAF, and start from here. Permadraws added Nov 2017 and replaced when neccesary. As always, check all fixed gear and don’t blindly trust it. Lowering from both steel anchor biners will greatly prolong the life of the last permadraw biner.

Sit start low and move through beautiful slopers to roof and finish up jugs. The best problem in the Balkans?

Tsz Ying Yau

Sit start at the small cave. Move right and up to top.

Sit start, pinch, squeeze and wiggle your way up the knife edge arete.

Mauricio Chino

One of the most popular routes at its grade in the mountains. Start just left of Madge. Stick clip.

A very popular route, and one that seems to be a good introduction to the grade - probably due to the plethora of bolts at the crux. Start as for GJ, stick clip recommended, then take the righthand line of bolts off this log.

Start of fin/jug and use crack to gain high edge. Up to finishing jug.

Start from the big belay ledge down hill from Saxicoline. Stick clip the first bolt, climbing upwards to a good rest. The wall gets “off vertical”, as you make your way across the “shield” feature. Classic moves all the way, punching upwards to the high anchor.

Stick clip. Up to 2nd bolt of Tsunami then head left and up past 2 more. Good bouldery moves the whole way.

Heel hook your way up to the third bolt (strenuous clip). Throw for the lip, grunt, then continue to the top holds trying not to fall whilst clipping. Awesome!

Start at large "BARFJ" mark.

Very sustained. Up smooth face to high RB. Continue past further 4 RBs and slightly R to anchor.

Sit start on the massive juggy pocket and move up passing a bad RH sloper

Obvious crag classic!

Sit start on the right side of the cave. Head left via some funkiness to top out up the ramp.

Ainhoa Martinez Sam May

Next to trees near left edge of cave. Use your squiddy (or stick) to clip first RB, then bouldery, powerful moves to a good rest at 3rd RB. Hard moves to 4th RB then EZ steep territory to double RB lower off. 6 RBs in total.

Popular. Up and left along the jug rail for four bolts then up with the crux right at the end. Short but action-packed.

Climb The Green Room to the ledge and instead of going right, climb directly up without deviating past 4 UB's to another anchor.

One of the best problems of this grade & style. Start at the back wall and pull straight out the roof, passing the big hole, make a long throw and finish MATCHED on the huge jug.

Jordan Maxwell

Mikha Liem

George Li

Traverse right to left as for Cruel Sea into the heuco, but then cut out the crux sequence by going straight towards the topout as for Dead Calm. Stay low all the way with the "upper V5 Lip" being out.

Kiu Hei Chu | Phillip Booth | Darien Winarso (No cut beta)

Sustained and thin technical climbing, one of the best 26's at bell. This route is the full package and should be on your todo list.

Sit start on the curving crack. Move left using pockets and crimps. Traverse into the higher of the two rails and finish as for "The Show Must Go On"

Starting as for SI, step R on ramp and then blast the line above. Wear a shirt. You'll see.

One of the classic test piece 26's in the mountains that keeps you working from start to finish.

The right arete is a classic that has a sting in the tail. Sit start on the underclings and climb up left past a pocket and into slopey finish.

Start as for previous but once off the ground, step right to first bolt in R-leaning black corner. Up this til possible to lean left and clip UB on steep wall. Punchy moves up this (2 UB's) then easier headwall.

A few pieces of gear down low on the easier sections. Probably the most popular route on Taipan - not least because of it's spoodgy grade and the quantity of shiny stainless steel! Start on the elevated ledge, just L of the top of the boulder you scrambled up, below a well-chalked slabby thin flake. Clip some cams as the start is easy but delicate and unprotected.

1. Carefully up slab to rooflet then mantle onto slab. Delicately up this to horizontal, slap the slopers, ride the horsey, monkey up the flake and dyno like a madman to lower-off (30m). Take two #5 Rocks if you can afford them.

2. (15m, 34, 8 bolts) The extension through the bulge (bolted by Ben Cossey/Al Pryce) and up the black streak on the headwall to the top (bolted by Garry Phillips) was sent by Kilian Fischhuber on 3/8/12. As usual in this guide, this is written up as a "second pitch" so that the easier first pitch is also recorded, however the hard version is best climbed in a single 45m pitch to the top. Kilian calls this version "Southern Delight".

Good fun. If you get the right beta, it feels more like 25.

The original line. Sit start on jugs in the middle of the wall. Head straight up and mantle out. Classic

Steep roof start past a creaky pinned flake to a vague rest. Continue up the semi-steep wall via two cruxs.

Hug your way up this overhanging block.

Start: Sit

Phillip Booth | Mauricio Chino

M1, R2, L3, R4, L5, M5, R6, M6 Start low and left with your right in the 3/4 finger pocket and lunge for the first hold. A classic although the start holds are often wet.

About V4 - old boulder problem from the early days, just had to be bolted.

On right wall underneath overhanging buttress 20m right of Brain Haemorrhage. Left-trending line finishing at big chain lower-off.

The massive super classic traverse. Start from the common point in the cave. Traverse all the way to the right end. Foot ledge rail is out as per all other problems.

Start: Sit

Marcus Lim

Two excellent and very different boulder problems. Soft if you can crimp. Start about 5m L of the wet chimney.

Start 5m R of WO. Another excellent long route, with a confounding crux. Originally 24 but confirmed 26 these days and even so it's not soft. And once you do link past the crux, keep your wits about you on the technical finish!

Start below large blank slab.

Scramble onto ledge. Climb up slab then headwall following line of 5 RBs (with an optional nut to protect the moves to 1st bolt). Finish at DBB.

Originally led in the 90s, making use of a slightly enhanced hold. That hold was filled in in 2000, and lead successfully at grade 25.

A Canberra classic - the proud line diagonally up the front of the boulder as you approach on the walk in. Good positive holds, but still hard work! Note: this is a squat start - you start on the first set of good holds.

CMCC

Sit start on slopey edge. Make a hard move up left to a slopey edge and continue to top out as for White Destiny. Bring a brush!!

V4 Stand Start, V5 Sit Start

Sit start, out the middle of the roof finishing left over the rounded lip.

Jack Folkes

Sit start matched on little input edges and a sidepull. Climb straight up to top out. Getting your butt off the ground is no easy feat.

Start left of the arête. Past tricky slab, then continue up right to arete, good holds take you up the steepness and a pump crux towards the top. Anchors are guarded by a tricky throw on pumped arms. Resistance climbing at its best!

Start in the back of the cave same as The Low Side but pop out the right side of the roof and up the slopey ramp.

One of Tibro's best 26's. Diabolical looking moves off the starting ledge. Anchors on a small ledge in a corner.

Bang out the steep start, break right and keep pumping.

Recently re-bolted.

Excellent long-overlooked addition that incorporates a direct finish to Strolling RHV. Direct line up the centre right of the buttress that would have been completely uncontroversial had it pre-dated Strolling RHV.

Sustained climbing leads up and slightly left through a bulge to a technical crux. After the 4th bolt, continue straight up on blowable slopey pockets. Do not traverse off R here if you want to bathe in the social recognition of a legitimate ascent.

Start: 3m R of Strolling.

Sit start on lowest jug (same as for 'L'Homme Obu'), reach the juggy break and head up and right through scoop.

Mauricio Chino

M7,L8,R9,L10,R11,L12,M12

Don't bust a tendon!

🚫 Originally done as a 'no heels' problem.

Start as for Stoplight Arete but bust out left via under clings and up face.

Start at the back of the cave on the obvious chalked holds. Move out the left side of the roof and continue up the front face via slopey holds (keeping right of the cluster of big jugs).

Classic. Stand start from jug in cave. Strenuous roof climbing to turn lip, then face to top out.

Another direct multipitch straight up the middle of the wall. The first pitch is one of the best harder routes at Sublime Point, featuring sustained thin crimping. Starts at FH on left edge of little overlap at ground level. Has been led as one giant 70m pitch from the ground!

1. 27m (26) Very sustained face climbing. The red and black face with shallow pockets and flakes. Considered hard for 26.

2. 20m (22) This pitch is best done by moving the belay 10m left to Microdermabrasia, or doing a runout climb up to join the pitch at the third bolt. Out right, up a bit then back left to belay on comfy ledge. Contrived in the middle.

3. 25m (23) Right most route off the high ledge. A bit of a pumper with big exposure! Fantastic big move to finish.

An area classic that is more technical than it first looks. Sit start on good holds in the low seam and climb up and leftwards, making the most of a variety of challenging slopers!

If you use the line of sidepulls and underclings going out right at the start, then you are on the right-hand variant V4 (but you won't be the first to be mistaken!).

Phyllis climbs Riding Shotgun!

Sit start at small tree on left of cave, traverse right and finish up Hollow Mountain Dreaming. Mauricio Chino

A bit of monkeying around. The glue is cracked all the way around the first bolt.

Beautiful face, roof, and rightward traverse. Staple and bolt anchor. Back clean the traverse until the 2 rings at start of roof. Rethread left to right to clean face normally.

Start on the cobble under the roof. After a dynamic RH move from the crimp rail to a good hold on the lip, smack your LH up to the sloper. A difficult mantle makes the send feel hard-earned yet satisfying. Aptly named for the sharpness of the holds.

Sustained and technical with some powerful moves. The route is badly scarred by several aid bolts used to place the 'real' bolts.

Start: Line of flakes up very steep wall in the centre of the crag about 10m left of 'The Dope Man' and just L of a solitary pine tree against the cliff.

Start on good undercling, straight up and mantle. The first ascent of this problem was done by Mr Rick White in the mid 1970s. Respect!

Takes a direct line after the 2nd bolt (basically eliminating the jug rest to the right). Contrived, but if you want the 26 label, this is the way to do it. Has over the years been muddled with the RHV (25 - and the obvious line using the jug).

A few pieces of gear required higher up. Sustained wall leftward past 2 bolts. At jugs, move right and up. (A pumpy variant is to go left instead and finish up Follow Your Nose).

Start: Start 6 metres right of "Follow Your Nose".

Sit start as for Green Destiny. Make the same big move to start and then traverse right on good holds to top out on slopers.

Sit-start at the back of the cave on obvious holds and follow the nice line out of the cave. Mantle to top-out.

Starts just right of Honey Bear with a crux up high. Permadraws starting at bolt 4 on a clean face with tufas.First bolted winter 2001 and rebolted with glue November 2015.

Sit start on sloper, throw to right pinch, delicate foot then hump to lip.

Start underclinging the roof with your feet on the start of Muy Forte. Go under the roof and mantle up the other side.

Start as for The Warm Up, then traverse the high flake to top out on the far right side of the wall.

Soft tick if you can crimp. Bouldery climbing from start to finish. Three FH's.

A fun climb, especially the second pitch. Take 14 quickdraws and two 60m ropes.

1. Also a great single-pitch climb. Steep and pumpy. Alternatively, it is possible to climb 'The Sluggard Prince' and traverse right to the anchor. 12 titanium bolts.

2. Pass the midway anchor and climb up to the next anchor inside a small cave. 11 titanium bolts.

3. Left out of the belay cave. Again, pass an old anchor and climb straight up, then left to the anchor of 'Lord of the Thais' P4. 11 titanium bolts.

4. Same as P5 of 'Lord of the Thais', sharp rock to the top. 2 titanium bolts, 1 sling.

Descend via the anchors of 'Lord of the Thais'. Three raps to the ground with two 60m ropes. Backclip to stay on the wall!

From the start holds of TBC, climb the diagonal rightwards.

Start up the rungs about 7 metres right from arete. Sweet Mountains climbing.

A long problem on the lip of the cave, finishing up pockets. Standing start and pull on, then motor horizontally toward 'Ogre Thumb' crux, then up on pockets. Pumpy.

M1, R2, M2, R3, M3, R4, M4, R5, M5

Good problem! Hold that last swing.

Start at underclings on the orange blob. Powerful moves up the wall.

Mauricio Chino

Jump from one break to the next and traverse left as far as you like. The grade is the number of inches you are under 6'7' times by 2/3.

Phillip Booth Dylan Hill

Short + soft + bolts = popular. Climbs better than it looks. Rebolted 2013.

Start: Start 4m R of Dial-a-Lama.

Sit-start on low pockets. Powering straight up and veering right, leads you to an easy mantle out. An exceedingly popular face-climb!

Sit-start from a low 'horizontal and slightly higher (LH) one - then motor up the left-trending vague arete using crimps - until you can lock up and right to a big pocket/jug. Solid at the grade.

Climbs Crouching Tiger until you notice a series of horns on your right. Traverse diagonally up to reach the crux of Kept Man. Up and PAST the chains of Kept Man/COD for another 3 bolts to the double rings right under the roof (Camp II/ Gothic Architect ).

Sit start on low flakey rail, pull up onto large flat rail and make tricky move left to sloper and top out.

Up obvious corner to wild traverse rightwards on roof. Very underrated thrashing.

Start as for Ass Backwards and move up to slopey features. Dyno from here up right to the worn white jug on the face....like a boss! Top out. (Good holds used for Ass Backwards, up from the slopey feature are out - besides why would you not want to do the dyno?)

Easily and often confused with The Hustler. The mega mega roof line that makes your neck hurt just to look at it. Looks improbable until you get up there and find out how big some of the holds are. Start on the very right hand side of the pocketed wall. Follow the permadraws left through the roof. Where they (and the chalk) continue up (The Hustler), this breaks left again (no permadraws!) through the top roof and up onto the amazing orange rock of the headwall.

Start under the cave, traverse right, crux is move through hanging block then right onto face and up.

Same as 'Right to Left' but topout as 'Dead calm' / 'Aquarius' instead of finishing on the starting hold of the V4

One bolt extension of Jaqueline Hyde.

Start with hands on the lowest side-pulls (the right hand is below the lower horizontal seam right at the bottom of the vertical seam where it tapers off), head powerfully up the overhanging arete.

The original problem 'Full Metal Jacket (Original)' uses all the sidepulls and generally requires a high heel hook.

Short, steep and good. In addition to power you will need loads of body tension to thug your way up this little baby. The first half is one of the better warmups for Mr Wall.

A powerful, overhanging line.

Place high nut with a stick and boulder into line from either side. Up the line which veers right at rooflet. Move left for final few moves to rings.

Sit start.

Matti Puckridge

Uber classic steep pumper. Think 'Way of All Flesh' but longer, steeper and likely a touch harder. Start towards right side of main ledge below bolt on slab and corner feature above. Best to belay off first rung on ledge.

Another route that is unfairly overshadowed by its 'three star' neighbours. Up the log and first two bolts as for The Eviscerator then traverse 5m L to the lefthand line of bolts.

Doesnt get as much attention as 'Headshot' but just as good. Perhaps a little more thuggy?

A tricky sequence at the start leads to a good rest then mostly good grips for great sustained fun.

Eliminate for 'Battle of the Shirts'.

Sit start then up the two beautiful pockets to the slot and mantle over. All other holds on the face are off.

Phillip Booth

Start with a big throw around the lip heading left past rings. Gather your thoughts, bust through the crux and keep trucking to the end.

Off break through crimps and pinch then jump to sidepull up right and delicately to top. Sit start has been done but it's not worth it.

Sean Morris