Routes as sport in Queensland

The only sport route at Mt Walsh, forgive me father for I have sinned.

Great climb up overhung arete at L end of pillar. Four UBs and lower-off.

Start 2m R of 'Terracotta Warrior' at ground level. Up slab, pull over small roof and have fun in scoop. 5 UBs. Shares 1st UB and lower-off with 'Go the Dog'.

Start as for 'Gutter Ball'. After 1st UB tend R then continue straight up. 5 UBs. Shares 1st UB and lower-off with 'Gutter Ball'.

Start at R end of pillar. More easy fun climbing. 4 UBs and lower-off.

Follow easy corner to arete then crux to anchors.

Up small features to rest then up to balancey bulge, over to anchor.

Up small crack balancy crux, good moves.

Follow crack up to gain a rest then move to balancey finish, stick clip first bolt if needed.

Gain small ledge for first bolt, find better feet and get second bolt, climb rails to crux, over lip to anchors. Stick clip first bolt if needed.

Up crack, tend right around bulge then left to anchors. Watch for rope rub on the way down. Shares anchors with Rail Mc Railface

Start at bottom boulder (stick clip first bolt if needed). Crux to gain ledge and follow jugs to the top!

Climb boulder in the grotto to get to the first bolt then up features to a nice balancy slab move to gain anchors.

Gain bulge, clip first bolt. Hard start, tend left around mini arete up to anchors. Watch for z clipping from 4th to anchors. Grade is for the start rest of climb is 16.

Gain bulge clip first bolt, shares start with GGT, tend right following crack then up though crux to anchors.

Up bulge to gain small ledge and clip first bolt, up fun features to anchors.

Line of rings to ledge, crux boulder problem at top.

Start: Left side of buttress.

Up face to ledge then top. 3m Right of Coral Reef.

Start 2 metres to the right of Rename. Climbs the orange slab, until you hit the headwall with some insecure and reachy moves. Lower off.

Up L side of small buttress. Five U-bolts to lower-off.

Up R side of small buttress. Five U-bolts to lower-off shared with OL.

An unknown route to the left of Pink Panzer. A long move to a large undercling guards the second bolt. Mosey upward, avoiding some questionable rock, after which a second crux can be found pulling the bulge above the ledge. Shares last 2 bolts and anchor with PP.

2m L of HITHP. One of the best grade 18's at the cliff. A little pumpy before the rooflet, but has some great moves for the grade and is very well protected.

Black streak to the L of FOTOS, six RBs to lower-off. Crimpy for three bolts, before moving left into corner with pumpy climbing ensuing.

Six U-bolts to lower-off. Directly right of black wall. Overhanging on good holds.

In memory of Annabel Choy. Up steep wall to double U-bolt belay.

Start at U-bolt in black strip to the left of small cave and veer left through small overhang. 7 U-bolts to double U-bolt belay.

Start at the same U-bolt as for Snake Charmer but veer right Keeping right of black strip. 7 U-bolts to Double U-bolt belay.

Start around the corner from 'One Legged Dog', on the right side of the small cave.

Follow 6 U-bolts to the DUBB of OLD.

Good solid rock, some long moves. Four UBs to DUBB.

Starts just to the right of Sun Chaser. Contrived route on ringbolts.

Rebolted. A rising traverse which begins on the gritty apron to the left. Crappy rock in the lower half soon gives way to more solid terrain with a few delicate, balancy moves.

Five UBs, joining Spike at last bolt. Hard start.

Hard start. Up steep wall past five U-bolts, keeping R of bulge at the top, to double U-bolt belay. Holds have broken off the start, increasing the grade from 18.

Heel hook start, quite sustained for the grade. Four UBs to chains.

Very thin start (direct), quite sustained to the third bolt. First bolt can be gained from the R if you don't have what it takes to do it direct. Five UBs to DUBB.

Starting in the corner just to the left of 'Little Wednesday'.

Killer little overhang. Fun, punchy moves. Lower-off. Find a gullible seconder to clean.

Start 2 metres right of Little Wednesday. A few compression moves lead to a steep rib. Finish as LW.

Clip first bolt and trend L then follow crack features to anchor. Four UBs to DUBB. Stays to the L of the UBs, with "Right Of Passage" staying to the R (hence the name).

Clip first bolt and head straight up, or slightly R of bolts. Sustained climbing, very set sequences.

A Link-Up. Up 2 bolts of right of passage then to 3rd bolt of dream catcher. Traverse up and right into the crux of shake and bake (avoid the temptation to drop down a few moves to the start of the crux) and finish up S&B. Changes the crux a fair bit and adds a dozen or more moves to the start. I enjoyed it.

Similar start as to RoP, not as many holds as it looks. Small runout to anchor. Five UBs to DUBB. Excellent climbing.

Thin and techy, just R of Dreamcatcher. Five RBs to DBB. Possibly harder to onsight than the ever popular Little Wednesday. Beware of the red ants.

Follow R leaning corner and crack. Five U-bolts to a spicy move at the end. Lower-off. Similar style to Dreamcatcher at an easier grade.

Starts 2m left of My Brothers Keeper. Stickclip high first bolt. Climbs the steep rock on rings to shared anchor with MBK.

Four RBs to DBB (in cavelet). Keeps you interested at the grade.

Now a complete sport route - fully bolted. Fairly hard start, then work out on good holds and heel hooks, clip bolt with chain extender before emerging to crux, gaining the corner. Six UBs to DUBB.

3m R of HE, 6 UBs to DUBB. Clip second and go straight up. For a grade 24 variant, go out under rooflet, boulder crux, clip lip and keep going up.

A unique route for Brooyar, 8 UBs to DBB (long slings recommended for 3rd and 6th).

Start up crack chimney feature on the right of the crag. Six RBs to lower off in centre of roof. Semi sloping campus.

15m L of L. Up to L of crack.

Up the orange streak 2m L of G.

Up the well protected blunt arete, steeper than it looks. Please update with the name if you know.

Up the sloping ramp on good holds to a set of big Brooyar rings on top.

The line of FH's starting partway up the gully of UR3 and heading R up the face.

Line of FH's up the sloping gully just L of UR2.

Start up slabby crack clipping UB before ledge. Lean out clipping second UB, then juggy climbing up the black featured wall past two more UBs before moving L to join MKK at its final bolt. Lower off as for MKK.

The line going directly up the R arête of the scoop past five RBs to finish at rap rings. Nice juggy going to the top of the scoop, then open, balancy climbing to the station. Lower off.

Scramble up to the base of the orange scoop. Clip a piece of history (!) before moving into the scoop proper and the first of four UBs. Good moves take you up and L to the zenith of the scoop and small rooflet. A little corner caps things off. Lower-off.

Start 4 meter left of 'Fatman Scoop'. Follow the shallow rib till you hit the break. Rock over a rooflet to get to the anchor. Unfinished, needed to recharge.

Up thin black arete onto prominent flakes, RB. Straight up rain drain on RB's. Up onto and through steep orange wall. Start: Start 3 left of Tally-ho the fox

A steep, fun start off the ledge. 7 UBs and take a couple of slings. You can finish either L through the bulge (recommended) or R up the black slab (both variants are bolted).

Start: Belay from bolts on ledge.

Great climb up some beautiful and exposed orange rock. Access the start of the climb by climbing 'Digit Crucifixion' or scramble up to large ledge from the right. Belay from DUBB. BR's have been replaced with hangers.

The L route with two RBs. Sustained crimping and tech footwork, the mantle is interesting.

The R route with three rings. You'll want to stick clip the first one.

A couple of metres L of LFTS. Little run out at top, on jugs. 11 RBs.

A good introduction to lead climbing, 11 RBs lead to a pumpy and steep finish, mantle then a top belay.

Start: 5m L of LFTS.

Top-out at abseil rings 4-6. Headwall might be a bit stiff for the grade, use extenders on the last two bolts to reduce drag if belaying a second.

Now fully bolted with rings.

Nicest of the three. Fully bolted with runouts on some easy sections. No rings at top, so check how you plan to set up a top belay before you climb.

Start: Start at right of tree at end of corridor

Start 3m left of '2,4,5-T'. Hard moves (crux) to the first bolt, then easy to final roof. Climb through roof direct.

Start at the end of the corridor, about 5m left of LFTS.

Start: Start about 35m L of LFTS and 1m L of detached pillar of rock.

Now a fully bolted sport route.

Start: Start 4 metres left of CAC

Start: Start 3 metres left of CW

Start: 2 Metres left of 'Prima Diva'

Stickclip ringbolt in corner. Scramble up to start ledge. Fierce layback straight off the deck (poor shorties!), then onto good holds on the slab (RB). Up slab and then juggy wall (RB) to sloping topout and useless anchor back from the edge.

The small roof to the right of CH. Closed project.

Contrived, but fun variation to Celluloid Hero. Climb to the right, keeping bolts on your left

There's not many roofs you can get a hands-free rest on. This popular testpiece is located 5m L of WOF and 1m R of arête below overhanging, triangular prow below roof. Up and out the prow (awesome jughandle threads) then move into roof flake while copping that rest with a styleboss leg-hook maneuver over the top of the prow. Clip RB on lip and then power up the wall above (RB) to ledge. Wade carefully through the lichen up and R to the recently installed rap station.

3m L of the arête you can walk into a small enclave-corner. Climb the blocky corner (originally done on natural gear) to beneath the daunting but surprisingly juggy wall. Climb this overhang on jugs to a horrendously hard and sloping top out. The chain is way back, recommend bringing up a second to clean and rap down.

Start 2m R of CTBH the right trending line of bolts under the scary block. Crank around the lip and climb up to DBB.

Start on the right of the cave under the overhang. Up to the first bolt then traverse left under the roof until you can pull over. Second to clean.

A linkup. Central to Blackheath start into Rattler slab crux.

A linkup. Crank out the moves on the Mary Valley start and keep that train rolling through the Blackheath finish.

Start clipped into the 2nd bolt of Central to Blackheath. Reachy moves to the lip before powering up to the big rail next to the bolt. Work your way round and clip the last bolt under the roof before committing left through the crimpy slab traverse. Rejoins Blackheath for the last bolt and anchors.

An unfinished project to the right of Woosah on slab. Has a black diamond sling threaded through first ringbolt. Bolting is unfinished, as it needs a second bolt and anchor.

Climb Woosah until you reach the large ringbolt where you would normally move left to the arete. Instead move right and up into the corner, before moving back left to finish up Woosah at its last bolt. Confusing, I know.

Starts 10 metres right of JG in corner. Start easily on rings trending right. Clip 6th bolt with a long sling and move out left to the arete. Climb arete to anchor at top of the wall.

Left hand variation, joining back at the crux of Woosah

Cue the 70s porn music. Up wall to ledge below roof (2 BRs), then great roof jugs past a FH. Move around the lip (crux) and clip the second FH then onto ledge with double ring rap station.

Scramble up to starting platform as per the next route, and continue scrambling up the gully a little. Stick clip first bolt on left wall of the gully. Climb the right trending rings to high anchor at the top of the wall.

Starting about 30metres left of JG on obvious platform, with a gully/scree on the right. Scramble up to starting platform, but can belay from the ground. This is the right of the three close together climbs on the platform. Climb the jugs for four rings, before a hard topout. The climb completely changes character, as you move up the slab staying right of corner feature, while encountering a few sketchy moves on gritty rock. Anchor is way over the top out of sight.