Routes as sport in Cairns

'TFG' at start of climb. A little faded.

'M' at start of climb.

Climb Mystic until 4th bolt, then go left to last bolt and anchor of ST.

Climb Mystic until 3rd bolt, then go left to 3rd bolt of ST. Go to its anchor. Cruxy.

Climb ST until 3rd bolt, then go right to 3rd bolt of Mystic. Go to its anchor. Goes through all the cruxes.

Jared Tyerman

'ST' at start of climb. To left most anchor. Ideal to stick clip 1st bolt. 3.5 BD cam fits in crack between 1st and 2nd bolt if desired.

Easier start to right of 19. Traverse into first bolt over flake. WARNING: ANCHORS (AND LIKELY BOLTS) SEVERELY RUSTED/CORRODED

This climb is on the 2nd of the Trinity Beach cliffs at Taylor Point, right hand side. Starts below flake, goes up to high first bolt. WARNING: ANCHORS (AND LIKELY BOLTS) SEVERELY RUSTED/CORRODED

Bolted line starting just left of the gentle aréte at the first amphitheater you turn into. Fun partial cruxy move mid way.

Lower area - far right climb (higher up slope)

Lower area - central climb (next to/alongside MLJ)

Lower area - far left climb (lower down slope)

From the lower section of Glacier in the shaded alcove, walk around the large boulder and start at 2m long hand crack below small slab (you will see first bolt above you). This crack start has been said to be the hardest part for those who don't hand jam well, but is honestly pretty chill.

Will need 16 draws plus anchor/belay setup (or 18 draws). First pitch is quick draw hungry.

1. 30m (19, mild crux) Up short crack and onto mini slab following bolts past overhang (might want to extend a draw). Traverse to right gaining mild exposure and up wall again following bolts. Keep climbing until you reach ledge with dirt and trees. Ring and chains here to belay off.

2. 28m (17) Traverse to the right (keep an eye out for the bolts as they become elusive). After about 3 bolts head up mild rounded arete onto mega jug hauling and decent exposure (be sure to look back at the view). Follow up line to large 2nd ledge at base of far right tree. Here there is another chain and ring setup. Be sure to use this anchor to belay and not to rappel!!! There is an anchor further to the left to rappel later (following string, stay on belay). Next pitch goes up from this far right anchor.

3. 18m (16) Head up slightly left from anchor following bolts to right of arete-feature, up to prow (big ledge, like a ship's bow! ). Here the belay anchor is on the ledge on flat ground - not wall - good to belay while sitting. Chains and ring again.

4. 12m (18, 2nd crux - style change) Stay on belay to walk to huge rock block to begin climb, can belay from tree. Here is the most unexpected part of the climb - the gnarly slab. Follow either left arete or central-right face climb (depends if you like slopers or gnarly micro edges/crimps - using quartz veins, recommended). Follow slab up to ledge where same anchor type as previous is. Fits up to 5 people on ledge. Bit squishy.

Escape:

This line requires a rappel off due to it not topping out.

To rappel from pitch 4 use ring at top of slab to get back to anchors at top of pitch 3.

Rappel from top of pitch 3 anchor's ring (be sure it isn't twisted!) to get to top of Pitch 2.

HERE YOU MUST NOT RAPPEL FROM ANCHOR AT TOP OF PITCH 2, IT WILL BE TOO LONG OF A RAPPEL! Follow paracord along ledge, to the left when looking at the wall (stay on belay) to anchor about halfway along paracord length. Here rappel from ring as before (60m rope minimum). When at bottom be sure to flick rope when pulling as it has been known to get caught in the wall.

Walk right along ledge past tree (safety to this) to use the anchor ring at top of pitch 1 to rappel back to the ground. Tie knots! Use a prussic! - this rappel is airy.

Also there is an escape from the very left hand side of the top of pitch 2. This is a bush scramble down from the left of the far left rappel anchor. It takes you back down to the bottom bringing you out to the left of the start of the first pitch. Still be careful, steep and loose as there is no real track here, but works in dire need.

Ethic:

Be safe, wear helmets (some loose rock- would otherwise be 3 star), take all rubbish from area, respect wildlife, vegetation, rock and hardware.

The climb starts on the right-hand side of the cliff, on a ledge. The belay bolt is on the left-hand side of the ledge and the first lead bolt is within reach.

This stunning line will lift you from the forest canopy to soaring heights with amazing views back onto the ocean and all the sun exposure you can handle. Take plenty of water and enjoy the breaks on two large ledges along the way. The lead bolts are 6mm twisties and the anchors are a mixture of expansions and twisties.

1. 25m (19) Traverse left and Up along interesting moves, 3D holds and a cheeky right traverse to finish. This is a long and wandering pitch, so extend draws as required and watch for ledge falls. Finish at P1 anchors for a stance/hanging belay that has enough room for three people.

2. 20m (16) Crimpy, slabby, enjoy the view, credit card edges and finger pockets. This will be your rest, so soak it in. You will finish on a fantastic halfway ledge with enough room for dance. Note that you can escape off the climb by traversing along this ledge. The escape is protected by some expansion bolt and a very short grade 14 diagonal slab.

3. 20m (22) Grade 22 with the sequence, 20ish with the reach. Business Time crux pitch, with the hardest move off the deck. Forgiving bolt spacing will help you aid the crux if necessary. The dirty mantle protecting the finish is pure FNQ filth, grab whatever you need to get over this edge. P3 belay is a large ledge. Watch out for bees and lantana. For the 2nder, unclip and retrieve the first couple draws before setting off for the crux to make your life easier. Also the top belayer needs to watch tension here once the climber sets off incase they fall mid crux. With rope stretch the climber could fall into space and find it tricky to get back on #prussics.

4. 26m (19) Fun to start, tricky finish. Steppy, ledgy then becomes vertical with the crux in the last 5m. P4 belay is a seated belay on a slabby edge. The views are stunning! Watch the sharp edge on your rope just before the belay.

5. 12m (5) Legend says the first ascent of this pitch was hands-free, no shoes, no chalk. Please respect this ethic. As contrived as it is, you will finish at the summit proper.

Descent: Rap from P5 down to P4 anchor. Do not try linking the rappel to the top of pitch 3 without an 80m rope (and if done, mitigate rope drag). From P4 anchor, retrace the line. Is advisable to not link pitches on rappel. From P1 anchor, rap straight to the ground, not back to the starting belay bolt.

Fun, short, traverses.

Three hangers on climb and two hangers for anchor. It has no rings at anchor thereby setup anchor via preferred method (draws or cordellette and biners). Can clean using higher rappel bolts or poles. Do not feed rope through bolt plates (hangers) to lower!