Routes as sport in Newcastle

Starts up short rotten arete on low block to ledge passing 2 carrots. Step right from ledge onto wall and trend right up slab to DBB. Mixture of carrots and FHs.

Traverse to the left on small delicate feet before heading upwards for some big moves.

From pedestal up flake trending left then back right to anchors. Can be done direct via pockets

The arete right of Covid Crack

5 m left of the original routes in guidebook.

Start 3m right of the corner, up inital wall to good stance on ledge, continue up final wall to lower offs.

Crack in the middle of the wall.

The thin right hand face. Located 3m to the right of "Missed For 30"

Designed to introduced fledgling climbers to outdoors

good beginner climb

good beginner climb

Starts with big jugs on steep overhang, with strong moves up to preplaced chains through very cool tunnel thing with hands free rest, up around roof to double ring bolt lower off.

Start at the far right hand end of the large cave below flake. Step up on ledge, then crank off delicate flake, past pocket to slopper ledge, up to chain anchor.

Pumpy for the grade. Start 10m left of GR, up bouldery start past slopers keeping left of the corner up to chains on roof

First climb at bottom of ledge just left of Suspect. This beginner climb has a little bit of everything! Start on the jug heading straight up to big pockets and the break underneath the roof, from here follow the break all the way around to the left and up onto the slabby ledge. Then straight up to anchor.

Climb on the left, joins Mallampati at the second bolt. Starts with hands on cracked block in the wall. Optional sit start from large round pocket for added spice.

Start as for Mallampati, but head straight up after the second bolt. Strong moves along edge of roof, finishing with a mantle to big ledge and anchors.

Climbs Propofol to the break then finishes up Code Blue - the final climb in this quartet. Takes in the better climbing available on this wall.

The route to the right of the cave.

Start as for Gimlis Gripe then traverse R to finish up adjacent route.

Follow the line of fixed hangers. Tough start then up on some good pockets. Be wary at start, the arch has moved and could collapse. You can start this route from the routes to the left or right.

Sustained face climbing with two crux moves. A key pebble broke off in 2014, making this route probably 24

Start: 2m left of GG

Sequential start leads to sneaky no hands rest then blast through to the top. Save something for the top

Start: 2.5m left of WITW. Up left of 2nd cave

Start as for hand shandy, straight up past some cool pockets to finish on anchors of TSCU.

Climb the left hand end of the wall past 3 rings trending left to anchors.

very technical, sustained and bouldery, and contrived. Climbing up the arete.

Climb right side of arete to 2nd bolt then move left above the honeycomb section to big moves to the top. Steep!

Slightly marred by sandy holds

Climb the overhanging arete on the right hand end of the chossy cave. Climbs well.

Climb grimy worm tongue, putting a very long sling on the anchor, then continue left to reverse the traverse of the Sods to its starting point under hobbits pockets without resting.

Mega line that covers some of the best territory at the crag! Shoot up Grimy Wormtongue, hooking left at the anchors to reverse the traverse, then pull the spicy mantle through the middle of the roof to gain the victory slab at the top. Lots of extended draws make life better.

Start as for Traverse of the Sods then in the middle of the cave punch straight up through the roof. Originally done with only the lower bolt at the lip. Extra bolt added 23/08/21 to reduce the risk of bad falls.

Slightly easier than TRBD and a good way to investigate the moves at the lip. Potential for a more difficult right hand variant if you take the pocket with your left hand and shoot straight up. Tough!

Traverse under roof from near Hiliary Step to finish on anchors for Grimy Wormtongue

As for Traverse of the Sods, but continue around the corner from the anchors of Grimy to finish at the anchors Kleptomania. A good stance at the anchors of OA leads into some slopey, smeary moves across the main wall. This section mostly stays with hands in the obvious break/band of pockets across the top (staying below most anchors). A variety of long draws and 60-120cm slings are useful.

Mantle block, up slab to head wall, grab 2 holds, lunge and then top out. No lower off

Start: left end of cave.

From the block, follow the line of 'heucos' to the top. A beginner favourite.

Short route behind the tree. 1.5m left of HP

Left side of the Hobbit Wall. Start immediately right of the fig tree. Straight up. Underclings then crimps. Still a little friable. Care clipping the anchors - maybe use a long sling first to reduce the fall factor.

Start at bottom left of wall near fig, to first bolt of Tolkien Effort, then diagonally right and up to first bolt of Entmoot, then to second bolt of HP and finish at anchor of HP.

Slab around the corner. Easy start with a technical, crimpy finish.

The thin arete.

Originally started off the block, but for full value start off the ground. Collect jugs up the flake to the head wall, then look for the useful holds and figure out how to use them to gain the lower off. Stout for the grade! Note: Repeated whipping at the crux (above the fourth bolt) has a tendency to wear the dogbone on the quickdraw. Consider protecting the dogbone and check your gear for wear after use.

start next to the big block. past 1 bolt, then a difficult move to gain the second, take care clipping. Continue up some nice moves to top.

Start 2m right of Risky Business. Up and slightly right of 1st u-bolt, then trend up & left to join Risky Business @ 3rd Draw. 5 U-Bolts & 2 U-Bolts for Loweroffs

Bouldery off the deck, best to stick clip first bolt. Start under Prime Time first bolt and move right past curved rail to flat edge. Then straight up, taking care clipping the third bolt.

Traverse slab then up flake through roof to hard to clip anchors

Start down low, up the slab past some big pockets and up steepening wall to anchors near fig tree roots.

Start as for bedswerver, traversing across the jugs to finish as for Risky Business. Covers the easiest territory of both routes. Safer if you clip a long sling on the third bolt of bed swerver, the minimal drag is better than whipping into the boulder.

The Bed Swerver jugs not getting you pumped enough for the thin crux at the top? Take this link-up for a spin! Climb the first two bolts of Risky to the jugs, then traverse left and clip the third of Bed Swerver (extended) and up you go.

For those who aren't sick of the bed swerver crux. Wish prime time traversed further? No? Oh well. First 3 bolts of Prime Time, very long draw on fourth, keep traversing along jugs, then finish up Bed Swerver.

Nice direct finish to prime time up to anchors of Critical Mass.

Bouldery start and into flake

Nice climbing in a cool position. Start on big flat jug, up then carefully around onto face. Belay off trees or rap to clean. Carrots.

Up on ledges passing carrots to tree belay. Beware of the loose block.

Good climb to learn how to lead climb and warm up

Slab wall between the corner and #5 'Fried Lichen' arete climb. 3 ring bolts.

Start up the crumbly slab wall, horizontal through the pockets to the arete and onto the face. No using the left wall - stay on the face. Joins last bolt and anchors of F&F.

Climb the vertical wall just left of #7 'Roo Fing'. 3 ring bolts

First route encountered around from Ferns and Fings. Start directly below first bolt (can be clipped reaching across from the left) and up slab to juggy finish.

Up onto ledge to start, then follow the right-most line of bolts. Shares first bolt with BS.

Start on ledge as for PP, then make move out left to large pocket and straight up. Top this one out for extra points.

Thin moves lead to an easier finish.

Starts on the arete on the left side of the overhang. Bouldery start into an easier finish.

Starts in the middle of the wall. Straight up the delicate slab.

Up passing the cave on the right. Good fun!

Starts to the left of the corner/crack at the base of the cliff. Climb carefully to, or stick clip first bolt. Cave to pocket then up and around left onto the arete, finishing on the anchors of OTUT. Can clip last carrot of OTUT on the way if you wish.

Follow the carrots up the broad arete. Move to good stance, clip, repeat. Nice beginner lead.