Routes as trad in Waipapa

Start up 'RotoVegas' then veer left up the face. Sequency with a powerful finish.

Alternate left hand start to 'Super C Ellery'

Start in short corner crack, veer left into right crack. Cruxes are at bolts.

The obvious corner crack and roof system. Climb the finger crack around two roofs to the double bolt belay.

The continuation of 'Millennium Madness'. Climb through the roof with good hold on the lip. follow thin crack and arete to tree belay at the top.

The fist crack and corner starting down below Dog's Breakfast , finishing at a DBC anchor on top of the stacked blocks (or continue up Dog's Breakfast).

Right of 'Three Steps to Heaven'. Get onto narrow belay ledge. Follow thin cracks (RP size) for 5m to next ledge. Follow bolts left and into next crack. Finish on belay of 'Fingers Crossed'.

Start is the same as 'Ben’s Big Day Out'. At ledge gain the handcrack. Follow crack till crux move onto bolt on left. Follow bolts to belay.

Start form the belay bolt 2m left of Spartacus. Thin trad climbing.

Climb the groove then continue up the crack into the large right-facing corner. Climb the face, using small wires for pro, with some delicate climbing to the DBC belay.

An adventure. Up and right from the start of The Root, then a committed move rightwards will establish you in the wide groove. Jam your way up the crack to the pine tree, sling it, then climb the right side of the tree until you can regain the rock. Continue up past the next tree following the right-hand crack system (don't escape left to The Root anchors), until you reach a single bolt just below the DBC anchor. Take a wide range of cams, nuts and slings. You can rap off on a 60m rope.

Climb the face until you reach the crack on the left side of the pillar. Climb the crack to a bolted belay on top of the pillar.

Climb the face to the right until you reach the crack on the right side of the BB pillar. Same anchors as BB.

Starts from ledge above the track. Climb the corner before moving onto the left arete and climbing to the ledge. Head up right facing corner to a semi-detached flake. Follow the crack as it steepens past 2 bolts. Double bolt anchor.

Up the outside of the detached pillar. Climb the twin cracks until stepping left onto the front of the pillar past a bolt. Head slightly left past more bolts to the top of the pillar.

Start up slab move right into a corner. Climb this corner till you get your hands on the ledge, then head left into the crack system before, climbing this system to the anchor of Finger of Fate

P1: (12m Gear) Climb the corner below the tree and then another corner to the base of the pillar. Trad anchor. P2: (8m, 2 bolts) Climb the chimney on the left side of the pillar. Same belay as Sidewinder.

Start as for FOF but head right from the first ledge up the face and thin crack towards the hanging corner. Head back left to the anchor via the steep face and wide crack.

Starts up the middle of the face just right of FOF. Mixed route. Hard technical climbing for the first 3 bolts. Move right to climb left facing corner. Above this gear is needed.

Mixed route. Start right of LRT. Head up the face drifting slightly right through small overlap. Stay just left of the arete.

Start as for Stealing Dads Rack but takes the left crack system.

Corner right of LnR. Finish over triangular block. Double bolt anchor.

Up the slab with 1 bolt for protection. Into the corner and follow it to the top.

Starts from the right hand end of the ledge. Follow crack feature to the right of GPT.

Up the manky left-hand corner crack to DBC anchor. You may need to dig it out on the way.

The right-hand (cleaner) corner and crack with a tree part-way up. Continues on bolts above the DBC anchor of Short n Sweet with some balancy moves and thought-provoking finish over the top to a DBC anchor.

Starts in the narrow crack before heading past 2 bolts to the anchor.

Climb the appealing left-curving hand/fist crack. An awkward move into the alcove, then up through the chocked blocks with care, to a DBC anchor.

Jam and layback the fist-to-offwidth crack to reach a large ledge, then jam the corner hand crack to a DBC belay.

Fist and off-width crack to an anchor at half height. Doesn't feel as short as it looks.

Zig-zagging fingertip to hand crack with a steep finish.

Pitch 1: Climb the tight corner crack then move right and climb over the large blocks. Continue up the wide crack system then past 2 bolts (crux) and mantle onto belay ledge (DBC belay). Pitch 2: A difficult move off the belay ledge is followed by easier climbing past one bolt to DBC belay.

Climb the crack line to the Fixe lower off. [Pro Wire, CD)

A tiny almost finger crack snakes its way up the wall. Shaun reckons it goes and has spent a while cleaning it, closed project until he confirms if it does or not.

The hand crack dominating the centre of the wall. A lot of work has gone into uncovering this masterpiece, please respect the effort by waiting until the route is declared open.

Technical climbing on small gear to the ledge at half height. Then punch it to the top up the splitter hand crack. Bolted anchor to left of crack before you hit the tree line.

Pitch 1 (16): Up the mossy green corner, escape right before the Flake of Doom to a stance and trad belay (#1-4 cams in belay).

Pitch 2 (21): Up the hand crack, ride top of flake of doom left to regain the corner. Up the tough thin corner into the pine tree. Classic.

Double Cams .3-3 and a 4 at least.

1. 15m (16) Same mushy green corner and traverse as "Agony in the Garden". Try to avoid using #2 and #3 cams when building your anchor, a high #4 is useful.

2. 25m (22) Continue up the handcrack, then traverse right to wrestle with the impressive leaning corner (.4-#3). If you make it, scuttle back left and up when the opportunity presents itself. The direct finish has not yet been climbed. Descent: Walk off, or rap off a fixed rope and carabiner anchor at the top (40m? with some tree shimmying?) Rack: At least double cams 0.3-3, one #4. Extra hand-sized pro would be nice.

4 bolts to start, then trad from half height rest.

The first free ascent of Renaissance. The details of this and it's neighbour (Dacroona) were lost in the chaos of the COVID-19 crisis. Eventually Romain returned to the crag and enlightened everyone that there were some free routes.

The second free ascent of Renaissance, and again by the dirty hairy Frenchman. Bring your pocket game to get into the crack, then jam on up to the ledge and bolted belay above.