Grade | Route | Gear style | Popularity | ||
---|---|---|---|---|---|
Back Wall | |||||
5 | Mo
| 10m | |||
5 | ★ Miney
| 10m | |||
7 | Meeni
| 10m | |||
12 | Eeni
| 10m | |||
5 | Chiphurst
| 8m | |||
8 | Seaweed Pepper
| 10m | |||
7 | ★ Chrisglen
| 9m | |||
6 | ★ Glenhurst
| 11m | |||
6 | Chimney Sweep
| 12m | |||
17 | ★★ The Bullshit Artist
| 13m | |||
14 | ★ Sorethumb
| 12m | |||
15 | ★ No Takers
| 25m | |||
6 | Country Rodent
| 25m | |||
6 | ★ The Cool Cave Crew
| 20m, 2 | |||
12 | ★ Coconuts
| 25m | |||
8 | ★ Sleepy Head
| 25m | |||
12 | ★ Horse Feathers
| 15m | |||
14 | Frog Legs
| 15m | |||
10 | ★ Drooby
| 15m | |||
10 | ★ Hard Drain
Good, but bears no similarity to the 'Buffalo' megaclassic! Start: Start 2-3m R of OB.
FA: Bill Andrews & Alan Hope, 1984 | 26m, 2 | |||
9 | ★ Odlid Baggins
Nice and long for these parts. Start: Initialled corner a few m R of 'Cypress'.
FA: Stan Manley (original p1) Bill Andrews (p2 1/12/84 & p1 variant 15/12/84), 1979 | 25m, 2 | |||
15 | ★ Odlid Baggins (Variant)
Up initial corner of Odlin Baggins but bust right onto the flake at 5m (ish) and head directly up from there. | 25m | |||
10 R | ★ Bored of the Rings
The front of the buttress, tricky pro. Start: Start just R of 'Cypress'. FA: Bill Andrews & solo, 1985 | 12m | |||
3 | ★ Cypress
Up the crack, with a ledge and small pine at half height. A poorly protected alternative finish is further to the R, the arete L of 'Odlid Baggins'. Start: Start beneath the deep wide crack. FA: Stan Manley, 1979 | 15m | |||
5 | Cypress 2nd Pitch
| 11m | |||
3 | Punks Epitaph
Sure Punks was influential, but these route names are getting ridiculous! Start: Start just R of DPitMotR and just L of 'Cypress'. FA: John Fisher & Iain Sedgman, 1985 | 15m | |||
14 | Dead Punk In the Middle of the Road
Up the middle of the face. Start: Start just R of PD. FA: Iain Sedgman, John Fisher & Bill Andrews, 1985 | 12m | |||
6 | ★ Punk's Delight
Up the crack on the arete. Start: Start at the arete R of GitP. FA: John Fisher & Iain Sedgman, 1985 | 12m | |||
4 | Gunk In The Punks
Up the face 1.5 L of the arete. Start: STart a few m R of EMP, 1.5m L of the arete. FA: Bill Andrews & solo, 1985 | 12m | |||
7 | ★ Eat More Parsley
Up the wide crack to halfway then up the juggy R arete to the top. Start: Start at the wide crack just R of 666. FA: Heather Phillips +1, 1985 | 22m | |||
17 | ★ 666
Originally finished into 'Overkill' but this way keeps it independent. Start: Start 3m R of O, just L of the wide crack. FA: Brendan O'Leary + 2 (original) & Peter Martin (as described), 1985 | 23m | |||
17 | ★★ Overkill
Ridiculously popular. Start: Start at the thin crack just R of 'Tootsie'. FA: Kevin Lindorff & Peter Lindorff, 1983 | 23m | |||
22 | ★ Tootsie Direct
Finish direct up the thin face above the juggy crack. Start: Start as for 'Tootsie'. FA: Kevin Lindorff & Peter Lindorff, 1984 | 20m | |||
19 | ★ Tootsie
Quite popular. Start: Start at the juggy crack R of BN. FA: Peter Lindorff & Kevin Lindorff, 1983 | 20m | |||
19 | ★ Bodily Noises
The face to a slight bulge. Start: Start between TCC and 'Tootsie'. FA: Andrew Corlass + 2, 1986 | 20m | |||
16 | ★ Tom Cobbley's Cllmb
Keith must've been on belay for hours with this many seconds... Start: Start a few m R of An-tics. FA: Keith Egerton + 7!, 1985 | 20m | |||
10 | ★ An-tics
Thin crack with lots of good holds and bomber gear! FA: FRA Chris Hurstfield Norm Johnson, 1984 | 20m | |||
12 | ★ De Blanc
Easy climbing up a nice corner with lots of gear placements. FA: Stan Manley, 1979 | 20m | |||
18 | ★ The Lost Pleiad
Cruxy. Start: Start between 'Regatta' and 'De Blanc'. FA: Iain Sedgman + 4!, 1985 | 16m | |||
13 | ★ Regatta
A good'n. Start: Start at the initialled R-facing corner down the left end of 'Back Wall'. FA: Stan Manley, 1979 | 20m | |||
9 | Henley
Like most easy routes on 'Central Buttress' this is an excellent introductory toprope problem for beginners. Start: Start down the L end of 'Back Wall'. FA: Bill Andrews & solo, 1985 | 15m | |||
Closed Main Wall | |||||
10 | Tree
| 10m | |||
10 | John's Dilemma
| 10m | |||
11 | Milk Armour
| 15m | |||
10 | Just A Warm-up
| 21m | |||
16 | ★ Underneath the Arches
Jam the R crack, chimney, move R to juggy finish. The DF is 18. Start: Start 20m L of the tree against the cliff. FA: Andrew Szikla & Neil Phillips, 1979 | 30m | |||
18 | Underneath the Arches Direct Finish
| 10m | |||
20 | ★ The Wasp
The crack, hardest down low. Start: Start just L of UtA. FA: Phillip McMillan, 1980 | 30m | |||
19 | ★ Master Kate
The crack. Start: Start just L of TW. FA: Neil Phillips & Phillip McMillan, 1979 | 30m | |||
20 | Instant Karma
The crack 1m L of MK. FA: Phillip McMillan, 1981 | 30m | |||
21 | ★ Walking on Thin lce
Crack/groove 2m L of IK. FA: Phillip McMillan & Nick Craddock, 1981 | 30m | |||
21 | ★ Lost In Space
The crack 1.5m R of FH. FA: Steve Monks & Kieran Loughran, 1985 | 15m | |||
15 | ★ Frogs Hollow
The corner to the ledge (optional belay) then more easily. Start: The main corner. FA: Neil Lambourne & Phillip McMillan, 1979 | 35m | |||
18 | ★★ Walking on the Moon
Corner as for FH then L under roofs and up. Big cam(s) handy. FA: Phillip McMillan, Jeremy Boreham & Kevin Otten, 1980 | 45m | |||
21 | ★ 21st Century Schizoid Man
These lads had a good day. Start: Start 4m L of FH. FA: Phillip McMillan & Jeremy Boreham, 1980 | 35m | |||
23 | ★★ Sixty Second Sixpence Man
As for 21CSM for 4m then move L to the next line. Start: Start as for 21CSM. FA: Tony Dignan & Phillip McMillan, 1984 | 35m | |||
18 | ★ Halfway Hotel
The low crux has hard-to-place gear which regularly pops and serves out grounders. Good moves though. Start: Start 6m L of 21CSM. FA: Kevin Otten, Stan Manley & Ian Lewis, 1979 | 25m | |||
19 | ★ Texas Chainsaw Massacre
Steep weakness 2m L of HH. FA: Tony Dignan + 3, 1984 | 25m | |||
17 | ★★ Texas Radio and the Big Beat
Great first half then a silly low angled slab. Start: Start 5m L of HH. FA: Richard Herz & Kevin Otten, 1980 | 25m | |||
20 | Pambo's Pants
Thin line 1m R of RT, trend R to finish just L of TRatBB. | 25m | |||
16 | ★ Rats Tail
The sandbag steep crack 5m L of TRatBB. | 20m | |||
16 | ★ L.A. Woman
Poorly protected wall then join RT. The DF past a bolt is 21. Start: Start at the initials L of RT. | 20m | |||
21 | ★ L.A. Woman Direct Finish
| 20m | |||
16 | ★ The Changeling
Surprisingly good. This route has been upgraded from 16 to 17 in the guide "Sublime Climbs" 2011 by K.Lindroff, J.Goding & J. Hodgson. Personally, I tend to agree with the upgrade (Con Dritsas). | 25m | |||
22 | The Changeling Direct Finish
| 20m | |||
11 | ★★ Waxman
One of the best easy routes in the entire 'Grampians'. 'Fantastic' pro and steep buckety climbing. Start: Start 5m L of TC, at the base of the chimney. FA: Stan Manley + 2, 1979 | 25m | |||
19 | Baby Torque
Start: Start in the descent chimney a few metres L of W. | 12m | |||
23 | Cognitive Dissonance
Direct up the thin face to seam. Start: Start as for W. FA: Peter Martin + 2, 1988 | 25m, 1 | |||
24 | ★★ Fritz and Cyclops
The steep line on orange rock. Start: Start 20m L of W. FA: Louise Shepherd, 1984 | 25m | |||
22 | ★ Three DimensionaI
From boulder into crack and through roof. Start: Start 2m L of F&C. FA: Malcolm Matheson + 3, 1986 | 15m, 1 | |||
22 | ★ Gothic Rainbow
It's had 2 stars for 20 years and received absolutely no attention...so off they come. Start: Start 13m L of 3D. FA: Andrew Stevens, 1988 | 25m | |||
18 | April Sun
Barely worth recording. | 8m | |||
24 | Unclear Aims
As for GR but go straight up from pockets. | 8m | |||
Calcutti Crag | |||||
16 | ★ Right Route
| 10m | |||
15 | ★ Left Route
| 10m | |||
11 | ★ Left Right Out
The arete | 10m | |||
18 | Heathers Silver Jugs
Start: Just L of the arete. | 10m | |||
17 | Veteran Grunter
| 10m | |||
16 R | Far From Godzone
Vibrating flake 4m L of HSJ. | 9m | |||
Hadrian's Wall | |||||
8 | Flying Scotsman
| 15m | |||
18 | Highland Fling
| 15m | |||
19 | Sassenach
| 15m | |||
15 | Sassenach Left Hand Variant
| 5m | |||
17 | Kilt In Action
| 10m | |||
16 | Heaving Haggis
| 10m | |||
20 | Horrendous Haggis
| 10m | |||
Tropicana Wall | |||||
15 | ★ Maeda
| 12m | |||
15 | Grinding Madness
| 12m | |||
15 | Brains Trust
| 10m | |||
The Stack | |||||
12 | Number 7
| 16m | |||
3 | Crag
| 15m | |||
10 | Hang-over
| 16m | |||
20 | Rainy Day Blues
| 8m | |||
16 | Number 4
| 8m | |||
16 | Happy Hampton And His Bubbling Piss Pot
| 8m | |||
4 | Ordinary Route
| 8m | |||
18 | Koala Spirit
| 25m | |||
13 | Crying Shame
| 8m | |||
Norms Face | |||||
8 | Glennige
| 8m | |||
14 | Perverted Nympho
| 20m |