Start at the corner on the right edge of the summit block (as for 'Gawker Direct Finish'). A rising traverse left around the arete and up and leftward across the face (2FHs) leads to a groove near the left side of the face. Up this and beyond past a third FH.
Quite good. The two old thin carrots have been replaced by 3 new stainless steel expansion bolts with FHs.
Start as for 'Gawker Direct Finish'. Climb the corner until 2 metres below the roof. Move left around the fang of rock on the arete and up the face past 3FHs, to finish at a fixed anchor - 2 old carrots requiring brackets plus a new (Oct '23) FH with ring.
An excellent route. Small cams protect the first pitch and everything from RPs to big cams on the second. Start on the big ledge at the base of the S-crack, midway between 'Impetus' and 'Oscar'.
27m (19) Easily up the detached blocks until the crack veers left. Follow the thin crack system up the face and up the short, easy hand-crack to big ledge.
15m (16) Shift the belay across the ledge to a slanting corner, the line right of 'Tienanmen Square'. Step right into the corner and up it to exit right at the top.
A good easy jam-crack that should get climbed more often. Originally climbed in two pitches. The crack-line on the right-hand side of the smooth wall. A short section up to the big ledge and then the narrow crack.
A good-looking climb up an obvious line further down the gully from the main face.
24m (14) Climb the corner-cack until it forks out. Belay on ledge on left.
27m Step right and up twin cracks for 9m then awkward traverse left for 6m. Either climb obvious crack to top or traverse 2m further left and layback edge of narrowing chimney.
