Grade | Route | Gear style | Popularity | ||
---|---|---|---|---|---|
Tunnel Cliff | |||||
27 | Feel the Pinch
Left line from the shared start FA: Michael Law, 1999 | 12m | |||
28 | Shenanigans
Right line with a bit more orange rock then its neighbor FA: Andy Richardson, 1999 | 15m | |||
22 | ★ Bust a Gut
FA: Mike Stacey, 1998 | 15m | |||
25 | Skinful
FA: Mike Stacey, 1998 | 18m | |||
26 | Infundubulum
FA: Michael Law, 1999 | 15m | |||
24 | Terminator
Farthest right route nearest the entrance to the train tunnel. Fire damaged extensively and now probably unclimbable. FA: Mike Garben, 1999 | 15m | |||
Cosmic County Greenhouse Gully | |||||
23 | ★★ Vitriol
Start 3m right of CM. Stem up corner (high first bolt) then lovely pocketed headwall. Lower-off at top. Bolts are currently old red rusty fixed hangers that only accept small biners. FA: M.Law & V.Kondos, 1992 | 25m, 7 | |||
22 | ★ Prussic Acid
Start 1m right again at crack in right wall. Rebolted on Us with chain+rung lower off. FA: M.Law & V.Kondos, 1992 | 25m, 9 | |||
25 | ★★★ Dirty Shrines
Start as for CO/HP (initials marked) hard move up to slopey break, (#0.3 cam or find a long stick), then rings leading right through strenuous pocket traverse (Higher Purchase traverse) and straight up past nice flake to ledge then reachy moves with a steep finale. Bring 15 draws. FFA: Eww, 5 Jul 2015 | 28m, 13 | |||
21 | ★★ Midlife Crisis
Start as for RR. Thin corner to above rooflet (hidden bolt, don't go right), right up flakes and cracks to wall and overhang. A few small cams wouldn't be a bad idea. FA: A.Penney & J.Smoothy, 1981 | 28m | |||
24 | ★★★ Twenty-something
Wall right of MC, has been rebolted though worth bringing boltplates as the most strenuous moments are often trying to clip the Ubolts that are at least a foot higher than originals. (Some people bring a #2 or #3 cam, but I don't know where they are used). A fantastically hard and pumpy climb, worthy of the two chipped pockets!! FA: M.Law, 1991 | 27m | |||
23 | ★★★ In the Flesh
Start 5m right of MC. Slab to roof, over this, diagonally right to nose, groove then left to ledge (rap point). 2). Traverse left and up to roof, right and up. FA: P.Webber, 1982 | 40m | |||
Cosmic County The 39 Steps | |||||
27 | ★★ Shimmering
Rebolted 2019. Extremely hard face climbing with a relentless upper half. One of the hardest in the style in the Blueys. Start as for Aesthetic Images to its 4th bolt, then traverse left a few metres and up to gain slab. Hard slab moves to the last ringbolt, then either rising traverse left to gain easy flake system (original finish - 1 bolt) or rising traverse right to gain Aesthetic Images after its crux, and finish up it (2 more bolts). FA: G.Weigand, 1987 | 35m | |||
30 | ★★ Simmering
The direct start and finish to Shimmering, continuing straight up from the 2nd bolt of Aesthetic Images, and also going direct from the last bolt to the independent anchors (not sneaking back onto Aesthetic Images at its 2nd last bolt). FFA: Nigel Campbell, 30 Aug 2020 | 30m | |||
25 | ★★★ Aesthetic Images
The ultimate face-climbing testpiece up an improbably blank wall. Consider bringing a #0.5 or #0.75 for the runout at mid-height. FA: Mike Myers FA: G.Weigand & G.Robertson, 1982 | 30m, 10 | |||
16 | ★ Xerxes
Start at painted "X" 3m R of CA and just L of K&Q. The carrots are looking pretty old. Up and left around roof, up easy slab to short corner and up. DBB then walk off. FA: A.Penney, J.Smoothy & R.Weigand, 1980 | 30m | |||
26 | ★★ Intaglio
Often overlooked, but worth your time if you've already done the other classics on this wall. Sustained, technical climbing, with a very thin finale. Up K&Qs for 5m (to the small tree) with optional #3 Cam, bridge out right to clip first bolt. Blast across the bolt and out onto the face, then follow linked features to epic sting-in-the-tail finale. DRB. FA: G.Bradbury, 1989 | 30m, 10 | |||
24 | ★★ Intaglioland
An easier finish to Intaglio via original Toyland, which avoids the extremely cruxy finish of the standard route. As for Intaglio to 2nd last bolt then traverse right and finish up original Toyland via 3 more bolts (clip 2nd bolt high, traverse low) to Toyland anchors. Easy to clean on loweroff. | 30m, 11 | |||
25 | ★★★ Toyland
"The climb boasts a complicated history of aid elimination. On the first ascent two rests were used on the section above the horizontal break, one under the roof and one on the flake above. The stoic leader then bolted up the final short headwall in driving rain to the top. Though he did the climb in one pitch he went to the trouble of establishing a hanging belay station below the bolt ladder. This was done for the benefit of future parties who might attempt a free ascent using the belay as a much needed rest. Mike Law made the second ascent and managed to lead the first pitch completely free but left the grade at 23. A month or so later Warwick Baird did a free ascent of the whole climb though he did break the route into 2 pitches. A few weeks later he made an attempt to lead the climb completely free in one pitch but fell 4m from the top when a hold broke. The following weekend he returned again and finally managed the task that had eluded him on previous attempts. "The climb now stands as the hardest and most sustained lead in the Blue Mountains" (May 1981). Mark Baker added the direct bit over the flake. Incipient crack 5m right of K&Q. FFA: W.Baird FA: G.Bradbury, 1981 | 30m | |||
25 | ★★★ Toyland Direct
Fantastic route! Start as for Toyland but instead of traversing along the overlapping flake, push straight upwards towards the anchors. Now the preferred version. There is potential for a small wire to be placed in between the second and third bolts to stop a probable ground fall off not inconsequential moves, it seems the placement is tricky to spot though. | 30m | |||
28 | Blue Emu Complex
4m R of T. Warwick sent it. Giles sent it. Maybe they are qualified to edit description. A fine route likely to wound egos. Recently rebolted. FA: M.Law, 1987 | 30m | |||
22 | ★★ The Candy Man
Start as for CoD but head left. FA: A.Penney & C.Sloss, 1987 | 43m | |||
21 | ★★ Clip or Die
Start left of the vegetated crack. Fixed spike and heaps of carrots. FA: M.Law, 1981 | 40m | |||
20 | ★★ Exploding Zombies
Great technical climbing just L of the vegetated crack. Solid, consistent and crimpy. FA: G James | 40m | |||
21 | ★★ Colditz
Start 1m right of GC. Bring a medium cam. FA: M.Stacey, 1986 | 28m, 11 | |||
22 | ★★ Building a Better Mousetrap
Start as for Comfortably Numb up to flake then left and up. 5 carrots and 4 FHs. Can supplement 1st and 2nd bolts with a cam in the flake. DBB and walk off right. FA: A.Penney, M.Stacey & J.Smoothy, 1987 | 25m, 9 | |||
Cosmic County Memory Lane | |||||
21 | ★ New Boots and Panties Direct
| 17m | |||
14 | ★ How Much is That Doggie in the Window?
Start 2m R of BitH. 5 BR's and 1 RB. A #5 placement before the first BR is optional. Chain lower offs. FA: A.penney, 1987 | 27m, 6 | |||
21 | ★★ Doctor Doolittle
Start just right of AP. FA: A.Penney & C.Sloss, 1987 | 18m | |||
25 | ★★ Letters to the Editor
Start about halfway down the ramp. Hard start then stella edge climbing with a big reach down low, keep on pushing hard moves and decent recovery holds. Fixed Hangers. Single ring lower off. Consider a 0.5 and/or 0.3 cam for the runout at the tippy top. FA: G.Wegand & M.Grey, 1982 | 25m, 6 | |||
24 | ★★ Junction City
Start 5m right of IS31 at ground level at the base of the ramp. Due for a rebolt as at 2023 - hopefully with many fewer. FA: M.Stacey, 1987 | 27m, 13 | |||
21 | ★★★ Barbarossa
Popular. Brilliant climbing. Start as for R. To ledge, use thread runner as ring bolt has disappeared. Traverse right (0.3 Camalot recommended to help protect second) then straight up between R and R!. 10 bolts and 2.5 & 3 Friends plus DRB anchor. Now has an extra pitch at 17 which can be done in one long pitch, requires 4 more boltplates and a small cam. DRB lower off @ 49 mtrs. Rebolted 2015. FA: A.Penney & M.Moore, 1980 | 35m, 2 | |||
25 | ★ Lapsed Catholics
Hard! Old bolts don't look very good. Start: 2m right of MD. FA: J.Smoothy, 1989 | 25m | |||
Cosmic County Camerons Crest | |||||
16 | Thailand Taxidriver
Up to FH as per The Allied Chemical News then head left towards the arete and up. FA: J. Anderson, 2004 | 15m, 4 | |||
Cosmic County Stateline Gully | |||||
22 | Something About Staring
Start: Bolts right. FA: C, L & Hale, 1995 | 15m | |||
Cosmic County Penny Arcade | |||||
22 | ★★★ Fear in the Western World
Arete past dubious carrots and 'fixed' wire! Take Care! Start: 5m right again. FA: M.Grey & A.Penney, 1981 | 35m | |||
Railway Cliff | |||||
21 | ★★ The Fish
A bit mossy, but interesting. Still awaiting a rebolt. FA: L.McManus & M.Stacey, 1991 | 35m | |||
20 | ★ The Age of Steam
Rebolted + new lower off, January 2017. 60m rope gets you back to the floor. A 50m rope just works if you swing right, use a knot in both ends. FA: C.Baxter, M.Law & V.Kondos, 1991 | 26m | |||
25 | ★★★ I Must Go Down to the Sea Again
1
25
40m
2
20
20m
3
22
45m
Great! Do all 3 pitches!
FA: M.Law & J.Holbrook, 1991 | 110m, 3, 16 | |||
23 | ★★ Baboon Class
First 10m of 'The Five Forty Five' (on bolts) then veer left once you have your feet above the lip of the roof. Full value at the grade. FA: Megan Turnbull, 2018 | 30m, 13 | |||
25 | ★★★ Gumbo Akimbo
Start is marked "GA", left of 'The Five Forty Five' Mikl was and IS a genius but clipping the rotating 'hanger' on the slab below the roof used to require as much energy as it took to do the climb! A new reachable bolt has been added under the roof but the first ring needs to be removed. Fully rebolted 2016. FA: M.Law, 1992 | 30m, 14 | |||
26 | ★ Edward Chiselhands
Steep, Thin and now with fresh bolts. FA: M.Law, 1999 | 28m, 14 | |||
25 | ★★ Cicatrix
Now with its own punchy direct start right of 'Locomotion'. Finish at first anchor or for the full tick finish up either 'Locomotion' or 'Edward Chiselhands'. 20m to the first anchor or ~45m to either the GA or Locomotion anchors. New bolts 2016. FA: G.Bradbury & G.Moore, 1993 | 20m | |||
26 | ★★ Locomotion
The left of the 2 obvious seems FA: M.Law, 1992 | 35m, 15 | |||
23 | ★★ The Send Train
Left of 'Locomotion'. Streno start, thin moves to big flake. Maybe just a touch harder then TBTB. FA: Jason Lammers, 5 Nov 2016 | 18m, 9 | |||
Line Duplication - Project
Single bolt extension to 'The Send Train'. Thin move past the anchors, then jugs. Finish as per TBTB. | 30m | ||||
22 | ★★ The Belles, The Belles
Easiest and least mentally demanding route here. Still quite thin and tricky at the crux. New bolts and lower off, or up to chains and belay second. FA: V.Kondos, 1992 | 30m | |||
24 | The Lithgow Flash
Start: Around the arete on the wall to the left of 'The Belles, The Belles'. Old bolts, awaiting a rebolt. FA: M.Law, 1992 | 40m | |||
25 | ★★★ Traction Thrash
Start right of TT initials. Fun 24 to first anchor (25m) or continue past drilled holds to the top for a hard 25. FA: M.Law, 1992 | 36m, 15 | |||
26 | ★ Suction Pump
A tricky and demanding wall route with a couple hard boulders. Now with new start off the ground just left of Traction Thrash. FA: M.Law, 1992 | 38m | |||
28 | Sucked n' Chump
A new Grkovic master piece of glue and pins to create a steep and bouldery direct start to Suction pump. A sling on the second bolt helpful. FFA: Steve Grkovic | 38m, 15 | |||
27 | ★★ Purple Pain Train
A steep start thought a small roof and onwards to a vertical wall with a desperate finish. FFA: Steve Grkovic | 25m, 12 | |||
25 | ★★★ Uncomplicated
A superior version of an old Giles 22m1, now starting from the ground with a bizarre opening sequence. Rest up through the middle sections and brace for the thin top crux. FA: G.Bradbury, M & Colyvan, 1982 FFA: Steve Grkovic, 2018 | 65m | |||
27 | ★★ Electromotion
Step right after the 5th bolt on Sludge Belly and prepare for a thin, confusing and sustained head wall above. FFA: Steve Grkovic | 25m, 11 | |||
26 | ★★ Sludge Belly
One of the best of Steve's new routes. Tricky, hard and full of memorable sequences. FFA: Steve Grkovic | 25m, 11 | |||
24 | ★★★ Bone China
One of the original classics on the wall, now freshly rebolted. Route to the right of the arete. FA: G.Bradbury & J.Smoothy, 2000 | 30m | |||
23 | ★★ Porcelay Negra
Cool arete, all rings now (a big improvement!) FA: M.Law, 1982 | 40m | |||
22 | ★ Australian High Speed Railways
Start left of Porcelay Negra then left and up. Wanders a touch - bring long draws if you have them. 14 draws + anchor. FA: Eugene Mak, 3 Jan 2019 | 25m, 15 | |||
The Freezer Shady Wall | |||||
17 | ★ The Learning Curve
Easy, juggy climbing, up the right side of the face. Named 'The Learning Curve', due to being the first bolted line, by Rob and learning to probably not use Kong P bolts in future, as they are quite difficult to work with. Set: Rob Medlicott, 26 Oct 2014 FFA: Rob Medlicott, 26 Oct 2014 | 15m, 5 | |||
The Freezer | |||||
19 | ★ Terra Incognita
FA: V.Kondos, 1993 | 18m | |||
19 | ★ Absolute Zero
Hard undercut start then a long wall with a runout upper half. Probably not a good one if 19 is your limit. FA: L.McManus, 1994 | 23m, 5 | |||
22 | ★ The Optimist
Bit cranky down low then cruise to anchors FA: Glenn Short | 24m | |||
23 R | Storm Watch
FA: C.Van de Reyt, 1994 | 25m | |||
18 | ★★ Soul Sister
FA: V.Kondos, 1994 | 24m | |||
20 | ★ Old Blobby
The arete. Seems to be a thiefs paradise as all attempts to ensure that the lower off anchors are safe is thwarted by theft. FA: V.Kondos, 1994 | 25m | |||
24 | ★★ Good Big Dog
Apparently a soft tick! FA: S.Butler, 1992 | 22m | |||
22 | ★★ Extension Lead
Burly start then cruisy FA: M. Law | 20m | |||
24 | ★★ Rat$
FA: M.Law, 1992 | 20m | |||
24 | ★★ Unity (Rat$ Direct)
Up Rat$ till about 1/2 way, then head rightish up obvious feature, and up to anchors. Pretty Cool.. FA: Nate Bolton, 2009 FA: Nathan Bolton, 2009 | 25m | |||
23 | ★★ Cryogenics
A long crux sequence up high makes this a stiff classic. FA: M.Portman, 1992 | 25m | |||
22 | ★★ SWALK
Another crowd favorite up big pumpy jugs. Best to stickclip 2nd bolt if you value your leg bones. FA: M.Law, 1992 | 25m | |||
24 | ★★ Meat Mallet
Start as for SWALK, then veer right. FA: M.Stacey, 1993 | 25m | |||
23 | ★ Ice Cubed
Choss! FA: V.Condos, 1994 | 25m | |||
24 | Semantics
More Choss. FA: J.Clark, J.Kurko & M.Wilson, 1994 | 25m | |||
21 | ★★ Bulls Head
Apparently quite fun! Don't lower off this, just top out and bring your second up. You can lower off with care and an 80m rope. There is a clip and go bolt at the start of the traverse, make you clip your rope in to this on way back down. * If you miss this you will lower off into thin air Have a knot in each end of the rope too * FA: V.Kondos, 1992 | 35m | |||
22 | ★★ Mad Cow Disease
Excellent !! Rebolted 2015. FA: V.Kondos, 1995 | 22m | |||
23 | ★★★ Hypoxic
The hidden gem of the freezer. Very unique, engaging and sustained wall climb on stone that feels similar to granite. FA: M.Stacey, 1993 | 25m | |||
26 | ★★ Easy Fit
FA: F.Yule, 1998 | 25m | |||
25 | ★★ Ha-Ha Wall
The line of most scoops. An anchor has appeared at some point, no cleaning off a single bolt is required. FA: M.Law, 2000 | 27m | |||
25 | Turrette's Fucking Syndrome
Hand on top, jump and lower off last ring. Looks much harder then the stated grade and has a suspect looking bolt. FA: M.Law, 1996 | 25m | |||
27 | ★★ M
FA: M.Law, 1993 | 27m | |||
23 | ★ Doris'll Getcha!
Now with proper double bolt lower off. FA: S.Butler, 1992 | 25m | |||
20 | Tom Tom Club
A bit choss in spots. FA: V.Kondos, 2000 | 23m | |||
24 | It's Not Over Until the Fat Lady Slims
A hard start followed by low angle wall climbing. Start at short corner with bolts, up corner and Groove/wall above. FA: J.Smoothy, G. Bradbury & T. Bretherton, 1994 | 25m | |||
25 | ★★ Spunknuns
Up the 'Arete' on Carrots Start: 5m right of INOUTFLS FA: M. Law & V. Kondos, 1995 | 25m | |||
26 | ★★ Dicky Ticker
Start: Lefthand route. Starts at the end of the 'death traverse'. FA: M.Law, 1992 | 20m | |||
22 | ★ Don't Try This at Home
Start: Righthand route. FA: S.Butler, 1992 | 20m | |||
19 | Double Standards
Up black wall past three U's to ledge then up to nice orange face. You may not enjoy this if you are short, set by a big bird. Start: around arete from log of death. FA: S. Hawkshaw, 2000 | 17m | |||
20 | Ratzinger's Thong
FA: M.Corkin & R.Styles | 15m | |||
21 | Enlichenment
Shares the same anchor as RT about 20m higher then it should be. FA: M.Corkin & R.Styles | 15m | |||
23 | ★ Who Da Man?
Very steep! Start in the dust below the overhang at the left side of the sector. A belay bolt marks the spot. FA: Kyle Dunsire, 1995 | 20m | |||
24 | ★★ Slug Monk
Start as for Gruntled then climb left through some hard moves. FA: M.Stacey, 1994 | 22m | |||
25 | ★★★ Gruntled
Steep start, follow the corner then up. FA: S.Butler, 1992 | 25m | |||
27 | ★★ Messenger in Red
FA: M.Law, 2000 | 23m | |||
26 | Better Dead than Red
FA: F.Yule, 2000 | 25m | |||
29 | ★★ Pinking
FA: M.Law, 2000 | 28m | |||
30 | ★★ Detache Mode
Bouldery start, no batman’n. Moderate climbing to the ledge. Punchy move over bulge to gain good edge. Thin moves lead to good jug/slot. Nice big sidepull move takes you up to the final crux and the single U bolt loweroff. FA: M.Law, 2000 | 28m | |||
27 | ★★ Lubberfiend
Nice thin wall and slab to a half ledge then a long and sustained pocket crux with a couple hard clips. FA: M.Law, 1992 | 28m | |||
26 | ★★★ Lactictoc
Start left of the arête. Past tricky slab, then continue up right to arete, good holds take you up the steepness and a pump crux towards the top. Anchors are guarded by a tricky throw on pumped arms. Resistance climbing at its best! FA: M.Law, 1992 | 28m | |||
23 | ★★ Warmenpumpen
Up the right side of the arête. FA: D.Whitehouse, 1993 | 20m |