Routes as sport in West Face

* An excellent problem on good rock. A good start makes the climb. Over roof (clip ringbolt), up wall (passing 2nd ringbolt) to top. Toprope rings

Double ring top rope anchors installed. Access cautiously from top. Tim Booth The middle of the wall 5m right of Pig. Bulgy start, then shoot for mother bucket at. Up to top.

[Feb 2012 - steel loweroffs added] The undercut arete 2m right of 'Turkeys Take Off'. Up to ringbolt, pull over onto arete, up easily reaching left up arete to clip ring on Turkeys Take Off. Continue straight up to top reaching left to clip bolt above roof on Turkeys Take Off. Then on to Lower offs

[Feb 2012 - added steel lower offs] "This is a gem of a roof climb". Start at the TT initials. Up overhung wall to clip ringbolt, up under roof, move right (ringbolt) until jugs over roof can be reached. Swing out left ... remembering to clip 3rd ring over lip as you go and mantle over top arete and up.

As for TTO but left out the roof and up.

As for TTO but left out of the roof, then back right and up.

[April 2012 - new steel ringbolts all the way] An excellent short route. Start beneath the eroded pocket , layback and get your feet up high and right. Kneebar into the pocket and get that righthand up to the jug. Clip the 1st RB and head left around the arete and up you go.

[New - April 2012] Gaston start, to layback, up horizontal flakes , pull out fingernails to reach the major ledge. Up sheeding sandstone bulge, find that high pull-up bar - but careful on that last 'exposed' move to the Loweroffs platform ! A common solo problem cleaned up with some useful bolts.

[2012 Oct - LO's added]

Climb up leftward ramp past #1 cam pocket to easy wall. Straight up wall past bolts to arete. Straight up arete to LO bolts.

[2012 Oct - LO & additional RB's] The middle of the wall between Hernia and Brigetta6 but starting down low, right of Hernia. Pull over past overhang ring onto slab and continue straight up wall to the top.

Once a classic death route. Start 3m down left of Brigetta under the overhang. Battle up the juggy overhang (ringbolt), step up to overhang wall (ringbolt) and climb up to lip. Rightward on good holds to ramp. Up to double rings on your left.

A popular incut slab. It is not recommended that you lead this route if only climbing grade 11, however do not top-rope directly through the anchor bolts. These anchors are getting noticeably worn through, as a result of such improper top-rope setups.

Start lower down, pull onto the wall and towards the right side of the face. Up the eroded front-face arete to the 1st bolt. On the last move to the LO's look for the right-hand under bolder hold.

[Dec. 2011 - ring bolt lower offs added] Run-out and slightly contrived but excellent. Tricky start onto thin wall and clip. Up the middle of (without pulling left onto the arete for a rest!). Up the easy ground (bolt) to pull over final easy overhang to lower offs.

[Dec 2012 - replace carrots with steel ring bolts. Use 'Short Legs' for lower off] The arete left of 'Fingers'. Starting at initials, reach up and pull up overhanging start to bolt. Up the arete past another bolt to easy ground. Continue as for fingers to the top.

[Dec 2012 - new steel RB's and lower off] Very Popular . An old classic. Tough linear start , or approach from the left traversing across the ledge. Up recessed edge, pull up right at bulge, then straight up wall to top overhang and over the top.

[Dec 2012 - new bolt added before roof ] Fine climbing up an excellent wall. Up the arete and wall left of Short Legs and overhang passing 3 ring bolts to belay bolts at top.

[Dec. 2011 - all new steel ring bolts & lower offs]

Up the wall without deviation to the side (the middle of the wall between 'Iria' and 'Nursery') - a couple of fine moves . Pull onto wall using 3 finger pocket and clip the 1st ring, then a deadpoint to reach a nice flake. Move slightly left for toe hold and reach up for the edge, clipping 2nd ring. Up to ledge, clip bolt on very short block and reach up to the ring belay.

A classic wall and roof climb. Start in middle of wall left of corner. Up middle of blank looking wall. At first bolt, don't use big undercling on left. Reach up high to flake under roof ( crux ), up over bulges past rings to double ring belay.

climb left using the arete - 'mouth piece' shaped chunk of rock included

Pull up to the undercling slot in the roof then core your way left 2m to the lip. Struggle to clip the 3rd bolt then crank over the lip and up to the 2 rings passing alot of moss as you go!

Start: Start to the left of 'One Blank Wall' under the roof.

A good climb for tearing your fingernails off and radical cranking' - Hill. Start at initial. DO NOT USE TREE BEHIND YOU!. Bouldery start on thin sharp holds to launch (fixed bracket) and straight up past 2nd bracket onto arete. Final easy moves up EOOTBWOKS past bolt to the top.

Starts 1m right of corner 'Bills Folly'. (Small 'friend' under the large flake to protect the 1st move or go up crack and reach across to clip 1st bolt). Pull onto the wall using the large flake. Straight up wall on small holds passing 2nd bolt to small ledge (medium cam or traverse to new arete bolt) Climb on right at arete (reach right over the edge of the arete to clip EOOTBWOKS bolt as you go to the top).

[Mar 2012 - all new RB's and they have been repositioned] Start bridging up 'Bills Folly' crack to clip 1st bolt on 'Malignant Falcon' , then up and traverse across wall/ledge to arete. Up arete past bolt to top. Caution: large block midway up arete moves , but its ok, its in solid.

[March 2012 - ring bolt lower offs and 4 additional RB added to this route] The West Face test piece for up and coming bumblies. Start just right of 'Bills Folly Chimney'. The short crack to clip 1st ring, thin technical moves, then easy doddle section. Clip ring above roof then crank to glory (crux) onto top wall. 2 Ring bolt loweroffs , 2m above roof.

'A mind snapper wall climb' - Hill. Climb the wall just left of the corner (Bills Folly Chimney) to horizontals (bolt) and reach high for hidden hold. One move left and up past 2nd bolt to exit onto ledge. From here continue up easy wall above or lower off.

"A good traverse across a pocketed horizontal weakness". Up wall left of corner as for Book Him Danno Murder One to horizontals (bolt) and keep traversing left to the arete past 2nd bolt. Layback up arete, (bolt) to ledge. From here continue up juggy arete to top or lower off.

[Mar 2012 pre-roof Lower Offs and 4 ring bolts added]

As for CH, but stop directly below the roof and use the mid under roof lower offs.

[2011 MAR - LOs and 5 new ring bolts added] 'An absolute ripper of a chossy roof'. Very exposed - relatively easy for such a large roof. Start 2m left of 'Juggy Crack'. 13 meters up the wall to the big roof. Reach around left of the nose to clip to edge hidden ringbolt, then crank out over the roof on buckets. Lower offs on right side of roof top.

Up the easy wall (bolt) to ledge beneath roof. Reach out and clip ringbolt, grovel out roof and mantle on rounds past ringbolt to the top.

Closed Project. Start as for PP up and into the roof. Traverse left and pull lip and link into putain . If ya wanna have a go just ask

According to the old guide book this could be the hardest route on the West face. The middle of the roof protected by ringbolts, left of the line of rusty bolts placed by Bill James years ago and as an aid route. Follow the break right past the rings to gastone in roof.

Punch it out past ring to pockets on the lip. Crank to crimper around lip following flake. Finish at break (No DRB anchor), or proceed through Jungle Of Death! WARNING - there is no DRB anchor on this route

The arete just right of the start of 'Pams Pussy'. Hand traverse out right to step on the large casuarina to clip the 1st ringbolt. (now gone) Climb the arete past two more rings to the top. Double ringbolt belay.

Tough start then up the juggy steep wall on incut ironstone holds/flakes. Slight incline from the vertical in the mid-half of the climb. 3 rings to double ring belay or up to the top and walk off.

The wall right of Outside Space without using the crack to start. Follow right of the ringbolts to double ring belay. Stay off the jugs/crack to the left . If you didn't reach high up at the 2nd ring-bolt or lay-back on the crimp, then you've gone around the crux!

Just around the corner on the right in the Nitro Wall approach Gully. Start just right of the little ground bush. Reach up high for the right hand jug and lay back. Get you feet up and find the 3 finger pocket & clip. Then up, moving left, searching out for those crimps and jugs.

Start in the small cave, lay-back and head up the right edge of the wall.. stay right until the top. The cave exit contains the crux.

Very last climb on the West Face (as you walk west along the access track ). Or very 1st if you start from the Nitro Wall access gully. Walk past the 'Volkswagon' small gully and turn right at the corner and head up the large open gully. 15m up, on your right - the climb with the small cut-out cave.

Start up the left side arete, all the way on jugs to the lower-offs at the top ledge.